Recent content by coderbyday

Nice work! I had a leak in my Accord and ended up getting new seals which fixed the problem but also had the benefit of reducing noise :)

The whole thing is sticky! But as its a "sealant" too you can use it as a sort of protective edging so that water cannot get behind it and I suppose anything exposed could be covered with something like clear plastic sheeting like the door membranes are; I suggested this as most conventional...

I've used it on exterior wheel arches in a BMW yes, it's black and is like a thin rope around 1-2cm thick, you can roll it and shape it like play-dough. I'll try and find the photos this evening.

Haha, you're really going for it! That paper on arch liners is really good and gives a lot of useful info. I've used "butyl rope" with great success for external and waterproof fittings, including fixing door membranes on my accord and in wheel arches on other vehicles...

There's a moderately useful exploded diagram here for the clips: http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection_pfk.php?block_01=17SEA701&block_02=B__4211&block_03=3151 From what I remember, there's a few screws and a few clips. I'd just use the thinsulate as everything else will be...

This is why I went for the front arches initially; if you reach under your dashboard to the sides of the body you will feel nothing but metal. This metal is a single layer which on the other side is just behind the plastic wheel arch guards. On volkswagens the approach is to stuff this cavity...

I've found a new thinsulate source. Direct from 3M! http://www.3mdirect.co.uk/3m-thinsulate-acoustic-thermal-insulation-au4020-6-60-1m-x-1524m-1.html Its their high-end 4020 stuff. 26mm thick. Should be excellent and the pricing is good too with free delivery.

It looks good! The closed cell allows it to be used in wet areas (like the wheel arches) too, I would recommend two layers if possible, but if you do the arch in one layer and the bolsters in another that should be plenty.

Because the main supplier for myself seems to be down, here's a list of alternative products; Heavy layer/mass loaded vinyl: http://www.advancedacoustics-uk.com/Soundproofing-Mat--125m-by-3m-by-2mm-thick Closed cell foam (go for 3mm underneath the vinyl/6mm for a bit more absorption)...

Ah they're fundamentally different, ideally both! The silent coat 2mm will resist the panel resonating, so where you knock a panel and it rings a bit is where it will be effective, good for low-frequency rumble that is transmitted through the suspension points on the car. The foam absorbs sound...

As the resident noise expert; another vote for the dunlop bluresponse. But I have 15's, The pirelli P-Zeros are utter rubbish in many respects however, or is it the P-6000s, I often confuse the two :) Oddly enough most of your noise will be coming from the rear, the materials are vastly...

Tyres! (Or alloys????) For an experiment I put the space saver on the problem wheel, the noise went away! So i've rotated the tyres on that side and its gone, but i can't see anything physically wrong with the tyre - there's some cupping but the other side has some too and doesn't produce the...

They're just the wear indicators as I've found out, needed but completely unrelated. I'm starting to think that the warmer discs may be a problem but at the same time a red herring. Everything is seated properly, the brakes clamp and there's no vibration through the pedals at all or any sound of...

Going to get a brake flush soon, but I noticed I got these clips with the rear pads; I simply put the backing plates on them and forgot about them, but are they supposed to be installed with the brakes as I couldn't figure out where as there are only four of them.

I'd imagine so. Closed cell isn't very porous so anything that sticks plastic to plastic. Those cheap £5 spray glues work well too I think; failing that find butyl rope as it's permanently sticky.