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Pre and post facelift bumpers are interchangeable yes, but then make sure you obtain the correct grill as they’re not interchangeable. Also note fog lights and even the bonnet are not the same (subtle difference in the bonnet lines and the front leading edge as the pre facelift has a chrome trim).

Trade it in and buy a petrol if you’re not doing the miles mate.

Avoid aftermarket, they’re cheap for a reason and will just add to your problems.

Never seen that on one of these before. No shortcuts on something like this, strip the dash and get to the offending part and solve it properly mate.

When you say it keeps spinning, does it sound like the engine has lost compression? When it cut was there any smoke? Or sound like a turbo popping? Has it lost coolant? Try temporarily blanking the egr valve at the front with a small metal plate and see if it starts. Then you’ll know if that’s...

The AC is only required for a forced regen, not for normal regeneration during a regular driving cycle. I’m just speaking from years of experience with these cars, once you’ve needed just one forced regen, the time is up for that dpf.

Yep, it’s going to come back. Once you start needing even one forced regen, it’s time to solve it properly. Drop me a line if you need help.

I know you’re remote but an egr blank and remap will likely solve this. You’ve probably got a slow operating egr valve, I solve them regularly.

Definitely grey

If you can find a cheap engine and reasonable mechanic I would budget minimum £1000 all in. Too many variables to give you an accurate figure. I would suggest shopping around and getting a proper diagnosis first.

If you’re wanting to keep the car, I would argue it’s cheaper to replace the engine. They’re old cars now, not always worth the hassle of repairing.

Probably a blown turbo or possibly oil pump chain. Is your oil pressure warning light on? Without stating the obvious you really shouldn’t be starting the engine if you want to try and salvage it in some way..

84-1 means you’ve lost your calibration. Needs a HDS to run a neutralisation procedure.

EBay. You need 64.1mm > 67.1mm

remove your intake manifold and thoroughly clean it out. Check the intake flap is clean has full free range of movement.. see if it helps

I just noticed it’s an ictdi not an idtec. More likely a blocked inlet and also clogged egr and intake runner control. Are you in the UK? You may want to consider booking with me for a health check

More likely a sticking or bad turbocharger

It’s normally when your VSA modulator has lost its calibration. You’ll need a Honda HDS to carry out a neutralisation procedure. I can do this, I’ve done it from time to time

The fact you’re not getting any dtc codes with such a profound issue suggests you’ve got some error suppression going on in the remap. It may well be the egr but ideally you want it flashing back to stock and then running some diagnostics. Get in touch via PM I can probably help.

Yes they will fit just ensure you maintain correct tyre size for rolling radius. Going to 17” is 225/45/17 and 18” is 225/40/18 on the 7th gen.