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I don't need the timing belt kit, I just need the cover. It has some broken parts.

I am looking for a lower timing belt for a year 2000 Honda Accord (CG8) 1.8 (F18B2). It seems Honda doesn't sell this part anymore and can't find them anywhere. I have already talked to several Honda dealers (in Portugal), and they can't get it... It's part number 11810-pda-e00. The same part...

Also, these guys say that the seal with part number 36172-P0A-005 will fit in the CG8 Accord. https://jdmshop.eu/en/uszczelka-zaworu-vtec-36172-p0a-005

Made some findings that can be usefull. The 2000 Accord EX 4D (USA model), had the same VTEC element as the CG8 model (part number 15810-PAA-A01), which has been replaced by part number 15810-PAA-A02. You can check this info at...

In that case, I will not remove it. I am not sure if it's bad, but since I have no substitute for it, I will leave it. If it is indeed leaking, I will probably buy a second hand, and then check if there is a possible after market seal (or from another Honda), that resembles the one found in the...

Hi guys, I am about to replace the VTEC solenoid oil seal for my year 2000 Accord (1.8 F18B2 engine), which I suspect is leaking. As far as I know, there are two seals: 1) between the VTEC valve ***embly and the engine head; and 2) In the VTEC valve ***embly itself, between the solenoid and the...

I have not replace mine, but I had to take it out a couple of times and that is pretty easy. The only thing you need to take care is to properly adjust the tension of the belt.

I definitely have to buy the Hondash to properly diagnose my Accord!

Wow, great finding! I did checked and cleaned my EGR a couple of years ago, but never looked in the detail to see if it closes completely. I also didn't check if the spring was working properly. When I have the time, I will take it apart and give it a look.

Those readings are awesome? Try do get them when the pinking is happening to see if we can reach to a conclusion. BTW, what did you used to get those readings? And where did you got the signals? Straight from the ECU wires?

I think that you can't install the distributor in other way. They do say to put the engine at TDC in cylinder 1, but they also say the lobe is offset to prevent mounting the distributor 180º out of time...

The other pulley, which i guess is what triggrers the CKP sensor, has 12 notches. That makes the 12 CKP pulses for 2 TDC pulses. You can see it mounted in the engine and in the ground where you can see the rear side:

According to the repair manual, the left (front) sensor is the TDC sensor, the right one is the crank shaft position sensor:

That steel plate with the two "ears", one in front of the left sensor and the other hidden under the right sensor makes part of that pulley. I suspect those "ears" are what triggers that sensor. If you look closer, those "ears" seem to be right in front of the sensor. Something like hits:

After a closer look on the image, I think the left sensor is triggered by that metal plate behind that pulley that have a notch. I think that plate is attached to pulley.

The crack position sensor and the top dead position sensor are located near the crankshaft. I (myself) have replaced the timing belt twice, and I think the sensors are triggered by the pulleys. Take a look at the following picture. You can see the sensor on the left which points to the smaller...

Wow, that is a really nice hack :) I have a cheap ebay bore scope but the quality is not that great. It already has a couple of years, maybe the new ones are better. About your new findings, as you say, it really seems like it's a mapping problem. But that doesn't makes any sense, unless there...

Glad to know Hondash is working for you! Didn't noticed you had already tested the fuel pressure. There is also the fuel pressure damper. Don't know if it has any influence and have no idea how to test it. I see that you have used a bore scope to inspect the cylinders. Were you able to check if...

I also have this problem. I have it for a couple of years, did almost everything you did, and got no success. I have mine running on LPG, but this only happens when running on Petrol. Although LPG have a higher octane value, which helps with detonation/pinging, I suspect this can be related...

F18BA or F18B2? I have an Accord 1.8 with the F18B2 engine with the same issue. I guess that our distributors are not made to be adjusted. I replaced my distributor a couple of years ago due to a leaking seal, and had no issues until now. Just bolt it on and you are good to go.