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Battery / Electrical problem that has me stumpted

S

stonking

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Location
UK
Car
8th Gen 2.2 Exc
Hi All My 2009 diesel accord has a problem that I need help with. If I drive about without my lights on or heated seat, no problem. If I drive for an hout with the lights on, then next morning the battery needs a jump start. I have put a meter on across the battery with the engine running and it says 14.2 volts If I turn all the lights on plus seat etc, it says 14.2v. I popped into Kwikfit for them to test the battery, which is a year old. They said it is fine. I have installed a little meter in my car now that shows the voltage when I am running. It is powred off the cig lighter. That shows 14.2v and beofre I started the car it was at 12.2v. Any ideas?It is most annoying.

Keep safe.
 
It sounds like a faulty battery, it isn’t actually a voltage issue but rather cranking amps that you’re likely losing due to a faulty cell. Is it the correct battery installed for the car? The diesel needs a specific rating.
 
Hi F6had, thanks for coming back so quickly. I have a Bosch S5008 in it. 77AH and CCA (EN) 780, so it should be fine. I drive for an hour with the seats on and stop at a garage and when I try to pull away, I get 1/2 crank and the lights stay on but the engine will not turn over. Jumper cables applied and away we go. Maybe the starter motor is starting to die? I have built up the terminals on the battery with copper wire to ensure the terminals are not loose but that does not seem to have helped. Not sure what extra an auto electrican can do.
 
It may be a combination of weak starter motor and inefficient alternator. The fact the issue manifests when you’ve been using devices that put significant load on the battery says to me it’s a battery and/or alternator issue.
 
Clean all earth connections with small wire brush or Dremel. Corrosion on the connections can cause issues.

Get the battery properly tested. If possible, swap it out temporarily with a known good battery and test.

Does sound like a weak alternator not pumping out enough to keep the battery full or the battery being a duff one not being able to take and store the power for later.

Has the battery been properly tested with a proper battery tester? Not just voltage checked.
 
When you say you have built the terminals up with copper wire to prevent loose terminals does that mean the battery terminals do not mate with the connectors properly?
I have found that improper connections can often lead to poor charging conditions because the connection is not enough to carry sufficient current.
Think of Voltage and Current as a hose carrying water, The pressure is the voltage and current is the amount of water being delivered. A small hose will not flow much water which is why fire fighters use large hoses.
Your battery needs to have very good connections in order to be able to handle the current that the Alternator delivers to it, if you have poor connections at the battery it may read as correct voltage but the current may be too low to recharge the battery.
Why are the terminals badly fitting? Are the terminal mounts worn or damaged ?

I would sort these issues out first and then see if the problem persists, it may be as simple as replacing the connectors with new and good ones, apply dielectric grease to prevent corrosion, clean all cables (electrons flow on outside of wire) Fit new earth strap, clean mounting points to car chassis .
 
Hi All. Sorry I have been quiet for a while but I had Covid. All fine now. Booked my car in for a battery check today but as I started it, the belt snapped so I have ordered another one. Not sure this has anything to do with the problems to date but you never know.
 
What caused the belt to snap? Could be the pulley or an issue with the alternator.
 
Well it has done 240k miles so maybe that's why it snapped. I am going to try and spin all the pullies by hand tomorrow and see if they all feel fine.
 
Can Anyone tell me if the AC pulley should spin freely by hand when engine is off and the belt not installed?

Thanks
 
Hi All, Quick update for you all. The Aircon Compressor has ceased, which snapped the belt. I am also guessing that it was putting extra load on the starter, which is why it appeared that the battery did not have the power to turn the engine over. This might be wishful thinking. Anyway, I will need to change the compressor and try again. Anyone now of a good second hand compressor place?

Thanks
 
Just an update for you all. Seems like the new /2nd hand compressorhas solved my problems. Yes it looks like the extra load the failing compressor was putting on the starter was the problem. Anyway, it is all working now.

Keep well.
 
My starter broke twice, during the repair, I noticed that the starter did not turn off when the car was turned off, it continued to work, the technician told me that the broken key would be the fault of the so-called > ignition switch ***embly. I need a part when the engine is running sometimes the starter works and won't turn off, have you had a similar situation?
 
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