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#116232 Diagnosing Aircon Problems

Posted by freddofrog on 29 May 2012 - 08:50 AM

Note that all pictures below are from my car which is a 7th Gen 2.4 Tourer. The way the aircon system works will be the same in other models, but there may be differences in the layout of the fuse/relay block in the engine compartment.

The schematic below is from the Haynes for the petrol Honda Accord 2003 thru 2007, USA MARKET. I have found most of the sections on engine and transmission to be compatible with my car. In the schematic, I have labeled the relay used by the system to switch the compressor clutch on/off, as B. This relay is a good place to check the compressor.

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The picture below shows the location of the compressor clutch relay B in the fuse/relay block.

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With the engine off and without the key in the ignition, remove the relay. Removal is made easier by pulling out relays A & C (the two blue Omron relays), after which the compressor clutch relay B can be removed, then replace relays A & C.

The picture below shows the compressor clutch relay removed.

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The picture below shows a wire inserted into one of the slots. This slot is the feed to the compressor clutch.

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By connecting the wire to the positive battery terminal, the compressor clutch will be energized. This can be done without the engine running, and without the key in the ignition. The picture below shows the other end of the wire on the positive battery terminal. When this is done, an audible clunk should be heard, which indicates that the compressor clutch is working. If you have a DVM, the current is around 3 amps (so gauge of wire is not important). Do not leave the wire like this for more than a few seconds.

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If you cannot hear a clunk, then you have a problem with the compressor clutch (either the solenoid is not working, or the thermal protection circuit in the compressor has operated, or possibly the clutch itself is jammed). see here for exploded view of compressor

If you can hear a clunk, perform the next check. Use the wire to bridge across to the slot adjacent and parallel to the slot where you placed the wire earlier.

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If you cannot hear a clunk now, then check the compressor clutch fuse (D in the schematic and earlier picture). Remove the fuse using the accessory for pulling fuses, as shown in the picture below.

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If you did hear a clunk when connecting the wire to battery positive, and also when bridging to the adjacent slot, then you either have a faulty relay, or the system is not closing the relay.

The picture below shows my relay. This was faulty. I removed the plastic cover and sprayed the relay contacts with switch cleaner, and the relay has been working ever since. This saved me a few £10’s in the cost of a new Honda relay, and it has been working like this for a year now.

The two upper tabs in the picture operate the relay coil, and the two lower tabs are connected to the relay contacts.

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The picture below shows how to check a relay. I managed to do this with one hand (other hand is holding the camera). It’s easier with two hands, hold one of the coil tabs against the battery terminal then touch the other coil tab with a wire connected to the other battery terminal.

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Obviously, DO NOT let the wire touch both battery terminals at the same time, else you will get a big flash (and a small probability that a battery could explode). If you don’t have a steady hand, don’t attempt this.

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If the relay is working, you will be able to feel and hear the contacts closing.

An alternative is to run the engine until the engine cooling fan starts to operate. Then swap the compressor clutch relay with the cooling fan relay (they are the same). If the cooling fan still operates, then the relay was ok.

SUMMARY

If you can hear a clunk from the compressor, then it is working. If the compressor clutch fuse is ok, then check the relay.

If the compressor clutch is working, and the fuse is ok, and the relay is ok, then you have a fault elsewhere in the schematic diagram e.g. low gas pressure

HOW TO CHECK IF YOU HAVE ENOUGH R-134a GAS

Remove the compressor clutch relay. Start the engine, and put the aircon to its coldest setting. Make sure you can feel the blower running and air coming through the vents.

Now energize the compressor clutch by connecting the wire from the slot to the battery positive terminal. WARNING, DO NOT LEAVE IT LIKE THIS FOR MORE THAN 30 SECONDS, DEFINITELY NO MORE THAN A MINUTE AT THE MOST, AND DO NOT REPEAT AGAIN FOR ANOTHER MINUTE. IF YOU LEAVE IT LIKE THIS WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING YOU MAY OVER PRESSURISE THE SYSTEM. There is a safety pressure valve in the compressor, but do not rely on it operating !!!

With the compressor clutch energized, if there is enough gas in the system, you will feel cold air coming out of the vents. If you are confident that the compressor clutch relay is ok, then the pressure sensor may be faulty.

However, there could also be other faults that are stopping the system from operating the relay, such as faulty temperature sensors.

see here for locations of temperature sensors

see here for exploded view of heater and evaporator unit

the condenser can also be perished and inefficient (this is in front of the radiator and can be seen through the front grills

aircon pipework
  • brett, skhell, luvmyaccord and 12 others like this


#189556 Littlebo/UKCL9 CL9/CM2 - K24 Reflash/Remap Test ECU

Posted by Stevearcade on 14 June 2014 - 07:08 PM

Hi guys,

 

Yesterday I took delivery of the Test ECU courtesy of UKCL9. It was very well packaged and had been sent recorded delivery. Today, I was not working, but I drove to work, as I know this journey inside and out. I wanted to cleanse my driving palette and be as objective as possible. So I drove to work with the normal ECU. When I got to work, I installed the reflashed ECU. Then drove home. I then drove back to work again with the reflashed ECU and once at work, refitted my normal ECU and drove home. This meant I was on a mixture of high speed A roads, country lanes and busy town driving. I did both directions with both original and reflashed ECU. In fact I bookended the reflashed ECU with the stock one for maximum clarity, objectivity and to ensure there was no placebo effects.

 

I haven't spent a penny on this, I have nothing invested in it. This is an impartial and objective user review based on approximately 30 miles stock vs the same 30 miles reflashed.

 

Low Revs, low gears, busy town traffic, crawling around:

 

Car feels very similar to stock, but a little bit smoother with gear changes. I suffered less of the jerkiness that I sometimes get, although this is very circumstantial. Basically, below 2K I didn't notice a great deal of difference, but it was slightly smoother.

 

Above 2K RPM:

 

Car is more lively with reflash. It feels like it wants to take off more. It's nice, but requires a little getting used to. It's basically goading you to put your foot down and you need to exercise a little discipline. It zips through the Revs quicker than stock ECU, feels much more torquey.

 

VTEC (4.5K RPM)

 

This again, takes a little getting used to. The VTEC transition is extremely smooth, no kick as such, just a notable change in engine tone and you're very aware that you're rising through the revs and moving at quite some speed. Remaining in VTEC with gear shifts is very good. Makes the car feel much more ballsy and nothing was keeping up with me. The new Red Line of 7500 or 7800, whatever it is, is a little scary. It goes against your instinct to see the rev counter going deep into the red and the noise is insane. But I'm fairly confident from what I've read on Hondata that taking the revs this high is still safe.

 

General Operations

 

VSA can still be disabled, cruise control works fine, there were no fault codes on the ECU according to my bluetooth OBD reader and the Torque App on my phone. Torque App was indicating a minute MPG improvement on the Reflash, but this is circumstantial I believe and the difference wasn't noticeable enough to warrant any discussion really. At least, with how I was testing the high revs... But my next point could point towards long term gentle driving seeing a positive return in MPG perhaps?

 

General, Gentle Driving & Cruising:

 

The noticeable factor here is that you don't need to row the gears so much, I imagine due to the improved torque. Where I would sometimes have dropped a gear and upped the revs to pick up pace (e.g. going up hill), I can, with the reflashed ECU, just apply a little more throttle and there's sufficient torque there to pick up and pull, no downshifting required. I found I was leaving the car in high gears at low speeds for longer. More relaxing driving.

 

To Sum Up

 

I like it. I think there's a notable difference in drive quality. It's not rip your face off different, it's actually more sophisticated than that (until your into the depths of VTEC, then it really does rip your face off). The increase in torque in the lower rev range is nice to have and I think is probably the best thing about this map as it's ironed out the dull spots in the area where the engine spends most of its life. And as mentioned above, it's more rev-happy and lively too which makes it feel like a more engaging and enjoyable drive.

 

VTEC coming in earlier, meaning the VTEC window is larger and remains engaged during gear change is obviously a good thing for not losing momentum in overtaking scenarios and things. Takes a little getting used to though. My car feels/sounds like a bit of an animal at high revs now, what with the CAI and Stainless Exhaust, and even at naughty speeds, is eager to pull more :blink: .

 

I'm going to do a little more driving with it tomorrow to see if I notice anything else worth mentioning.

 

---

 

This review is my own personal experience and NOT an official endorsement by Type Accord.

 

There has been some heated discussion of late about the credibility of the claims made by those selling this map and the newness of members posting reviews. All I can say is, in my humble opinion (which I know for some, doesn't count for much) the car feels better with the reflashed ECU and it has done to the driving experience what was claimed it would. It is definitely not a placebo.

 

If you wish to contribute to this thread, ask questions or discuss things, please do. But, given the recent heated discussion in other threads, I won't tolerate any silliness of any sort in this thread. This is my review thread, not Littlebo/UKCL9's Reflash Thread Part 2. I trust we're all clear on this. Please keep things clean and keep personal snipes out of it. I won't be posting polite reminders if the mud flinging starts.


  • sfai, ukcl9, Cliffordski and 6 others like this


#34437 Real Honda Part Numbers On Lings

Posted by nick on 14 February 2011 - 10:16 PM

From a different Honda Forum I frequent some clever guy has come up with a way to show the real Honda part numbers rather than the one Lings have made up.

Follow the instructions and prepare for the awesomeness!

Find your parts i.e

/honda_car_parts_selection_pfk.php?block_01=17SED01&block_02=B__0800&block_03=509 (http://www.hondaoriginalparts.com deleted so it shows the whole thing)

Lings Part Numbers

And in the 'part number' column you'll have all the Lings specific part numbers. Now edit the URL, and remove the "_pfk" part before the ".php" part. You'll end up with something like:

/honda_car_parts_selection.php?block_01=17SED01&block_02=B__0800&block_03=509 (http://www.hondaoriginalparts.com)

Honda Part Numbers

Bobs your Uncle, Fannies your Aunt that's all from me. Good Night.

Add a rep point if you like it ;)
  • Pepster, Paul, davecmr and 5 others like this


#109386 Howto - Thermostat replacing

Posted by skhell on 24 April 2012 - 10:18 PM

As some of you might know, I had some engine overheating issues, and the culprit was a dead thermostat.
I took some pictures of the process and decided to make this small howto.

Please note, my car runs on LPG, you might see "weird" things in the engine bay, such as the LPG filter or the LPG injectors. Also, my car is RHD, the LHD version may have other components near the thermostat housing, such as the brake or clutch elements.

The process is very simple. Make sure you are working on a cold engine, otherwise you can burn yourself, as the system is under pressure and the coolant can be quite hot.

The first thing to do is to remove the intake pipe which goes from the throttle body to the air filter box. This is quite easy, just loose two bolts, one on each end, pull off the pipe, and you are done. Make sure to remove the breather tube which goes from the intake pipe to the valve cover.

After doing that, you must get something like the next pictures, with the thermostat housing at sight.

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Then, remove the fan switch connector, and the bolts which hold the thermostat housing. There are 3 bolts which hold the thermostat housing: the 2 marked with a red arrow, and a third marked with a yellow arrow, which is quite hidden. Near the yellow one, there is another bolt which hold that metal plate. It's also a good idea to remove that bolt, so it's easier to reach the 3º bolt.

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After removing the bolts, pull the thermostat housing, and you should see the thermostat inside. It might be stuck, take it out it with a pliers. Note the position of the thermostat, that "nipple" should be at that position. Also, the sealant has a small "part" which fits a recession in the housing, so there is no way to install it in a wrong position.

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In the following picture, its possible to see that little part of the sealant which must fit the recession of the thermostat housing.
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Then, just put the new thermostat in place, in the right position, assemble everything together in the reverse order and fill the radiator with anti-freeze. Let engine run and look for leeks. In the next days, you should look the level of the anti-freeze, since it may go down a bit as the engine bleeds it self. The F18B2 engine doesn't need to be bled, but if your engine needs manual bleeding, make sure you do it, otherwise you may have overheating issues.

If someone have any question, let me know, I will be happy to help B)
  • TypeR, brett, luvmyaccord and 5 others like this


#90999 7th Gen Tourer Rear Brake Overhaul

Posted by Matt on 09 January 2012 - 09:11 PM

Once the piston is fully in, the dust cover will automatically locate in the rebate on the piston. Once I’d done this I put it back on the IMS pump and pushed the piston out half an inch again, just to confirm the dust boot was correctly seated.

Refit the pad spring to the calliper.


Back to the carrier:
Refit the spring steel retainers to the carrier.
Lubricate the slides with grease (sachet supplied with my replacement slides) and slide in and out a few times to distribute, recalling which bore had the round and flatted-side slide fitted.

Attach the bellows dust cap to the carrier end (look carefully, the boot has an inny and an outy end) push in the slide, finally locating the boot in the recess at the end.

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Offer the calliper to the carrier and fit the retaining bolts (12mm socket) and torque to 22Nm, stopping the slide from rotating with a 17mm spanner on the other side. Check the calliper is free to move in and out along the slides.

Refit the pads and shims smearing the back of the pads and shims with copper grease.

Remove the mounting brackets from the old flexi hose and transfer to the new.

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Attach the new flexi hose (using new washers) to the calliper, observing the orientation, and torque the banjo bolt to 34Nm. I pulled a finger cut from a rubber glove over the free end of the hose. If it gets scraped under the wheel arch on refitting, you really don’t want a hose full of grit! If you’re unsure of the orientation, do this bit back on the car. If you get banjo backwards the mid point hose mounting bracket will be upside down!

Offer the brake assembly to the hub, fitting the two carrier-to-hub bolts (14mm socket) and torque down to 55Nm.


Check the union on the end of the metal brake pipe is free of contamination, then reattach the free end of the flexi hose (15Nm).

Check the disc is free to rotate, proceed to bleed the air from the system. I used my Heath Robinson pressure bleeder (yes, that IS a Lucozade bottle), but do it whichever way works for you.

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With the wheel back on take the car for a cautious test drive, keeping an eye out for weeping fluid from the connections, unexpected peddle feel etc. Fingers crossed that’ll be the end of it!
  • ABS, Stevearcade, jayok and 4 others like this


#74693 DIY 7th Gen Diesel: Coolant Change

Posted by Matt on 20 September 2011 - 09:12 PM

My car, now seven years old, should have had a coolant change at five years. I've no idea if the previous owner did this, or for that matter if they just filled it with lemonade. As I've just hit 60K miles, and the cold weather is just around the corner I thought it wise to change the coolant.

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Before I started the job, I wanted to know what to do with the old coolant. A fair bit of Googling didn't really give a definitive answer. Most people agree that it shouldn't go into a surface water drain or just be poured into the ground. Ethylene glycol degrades relatively quickly, but (being fairly toxic) until this has happened it poses ecological dangers.

Some sources say providing it's well diluted it's ok to pour it into a sewer (i.e. flush it down the toilet) as the treatment works will to ensure it's dealt with by the time it's discharged into the environment. I disagree. I wouldn't pour half a tin of unwanted gloss paint down the toilet, and I don't intend to do the same with antifreeze!

My local tip has no facilities to deal with miscellaneous chemicals, and so I emailed waste management services at the local council for advice. Their response was, to my surprise, both quick and helpful! All I need do is supply my name, address, nature & quantity of chemical and they'll collect it free of charge when their van next does a round and dispose of it in the most appropriate manner. Sorted.

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The next step was to collect together what I'd need for the job. Apparently ready to use 'Pro Honda All season anti-freeze Genuine Coolant type 2' is available in 5 litre bottles for about £18 (part number 08CLAG011810 ?), but nobody I contacted stocked it. To that end I had to settle for seven 1 litre bottles :o . In addition I obtained a new o-ring for the expansion tank bleeder plug (19012671300) and a sealing washer for the engine block drain plug (9410914000 -same as the oil sump washer).

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What follows is more or less verbatim from the owner's manual:

Make sure the engine is cool before releasing any caps, plugs etc so you don't get a scalding surprise.

Switch on the ignition and set the heater's DUAL setting to 'off' and increase the temperature to 'HI'. Switch off the ignition off again.

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Chock the rear wheels and raise the front of the car on axle stands. No need to remove the engine under cover.

Under the bonnet, remove the four dome head nuts (10mm socket) and remove the engine cover. Remove the expansion tank filler cap, and the expansion tank bleeder plug (3/8" square key). Locate the the bleed bolt behind the EGR valve assembly, and crack it open half a turn (12mm socket).

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Under the car locate the white plastic drain plug on the bottom of the radiator.

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With a container at the ready, unscrew the drain plug about two turns, until fluid begins to flow. It should be little more than finger tight. Don't undo it all the way and remove it, or you'll have coolant all over the place!

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Put the kettle on. The fluid drains very slowly, though in an well controlled manner. You'll get over six litres out so make sure your container is big enough.

When the flow has stopped, you can (optionally) turn your attention to the last half litre or so of coolant trapped in the engine block.

Crawl further under the car, armed with a 17mm deep socket, a fine ratchet, an old washing up bowl, safety goggles and a lot of patience. This is really tricky, and something I doubt I'll attempt next time :( .

Lying on your back, look up through the rear of the engine, in the area where the drive shaft, exhaust and turbo all sit. You're after the bolt head sat in a recess in the casting that you can barely see, let alone get a spanner on.

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Crack the drain plug with the deep socket. Balance the washing up bowl on your chest and proceed to undo the plug with your finger tips, taking care not to let it come all the way out. Eventually the point where fluid can escape will be reached. With luck some will find its way into the bowl, the rest will run down your arm and soak into your t-shirt. When all the fluid is gone, refit the plug with a new 14mm plug washer. It's meant to be torqued in to 39Nm, but there's not a cat-in-hells-chance of getting my torque wrench in there without first stripping of a load of other stuff -so I just guessed.

Re-tighten the white plastic radiator drain plug finger tight.

Lower the car.

Start re-filing the system. The first six bottles can be poured in as fast as they'll go.

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Towards the end of bottle six, or the start of bottle seven keep an eye on the bleeder bolt on top of the engine. When fluid starts to escape from here, stop pouring and nip up the bolt (to 9.8Nm).

If you've added less than 6.3 litres (partial change) or 6.8 litres (total change) yet the expansion tank seems full at this stage you probably have a gob of air in the system somewhere. Keep the remaining fluid handy, the air will work itself out after a few of warm up / cool down cycles and will need topping up.

Fit a new o-ring to the plastic expansion tank bleed plug and refit to 2.0Nm (little more than finger tight).

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Loosely fit the metal expansion tank cap and start the engine.

The book says to let the engine warm up until the radiator fan has run at least twice (air-con off) to allow any air pockets to be purged. On mine, the temperature gauge rose to its normal running position after about 10 minutes or so, but even after three quarters of an hour of idling the fan still hadn't come on!

Don't forget to fully fit the expansion tank cap when you've finished.

Re-fit the engine cover.

Run the car for a couple of days, watching the fluid level after each journey, and keeping an eye out for leaks. You may get a small level drop as any remaining air in the system works its way out.

That should be it for three years or 37500 miles.

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Postscript: Once I'd packed everything away and started writing this post, I realised the white plastic radiator drain plug has the same o-ring as the expansion tank plug (19012671300). If I'd known I'd have ordered two and replaced the radiator one too.

  • F6HAD, Jon2.2, Dave04 and 4 others like this


#40073 7th gen facelift flat wiper retrofit

Posted by crespo on 12 March 2011 - 01:53 PM

Very easy mod to do and takes about 5 minutes.

Tools needed,

Small Philips screwdriver.

New Facelift flat wiper blades. £25 a pair from Honda.


Most of you will already know that the passenger side wiper arm is already compatible with the newer flat wiper blade found on the facelift 7th gen Accord but the drivers side has a block on the wiper that holds the old style wiper blade steady at high speed which gets in the way of the new style flat blade.
This mod will save you buying a drivers side wiper arm which costs £60 + VAT from Honda.

All you need to do is lift the arm and look underneath the plastic block and you will see a small Philips screw holding it to the wiper, Just unscrew this and the block comes off, Then your good to go.




This picture shows the plastic block that you need to remove. (under my finger)
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A picture of it removed.
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Which leaves you with this.
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That is it, Job done.

Now just install your wipers you got from Honda and stand back and admire your handy work.


From this.
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To this.
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I have tested this mod at motorway speeds and i get no lift or chatter from the wipers and they work perfectly.
  • F6HAD, Paul, nodrogs and 4 others like this


#196385 DIY - Replace bad/cracked manifold on 2.2 i-ctdi Accord 2007

Posted by SirHansen on 13 September 2014 - 12:03 PM

Hi

 

In this DIY, I will explain how I did the removal and installation of the new exhaust manifold.

I apologize in advance if there are any error in my writing, I am from Norway, and this is my first post so please bare with me  :D

 

Honda has an 7 year/200000 km service on this error, but mine was 3 months to old, so I did not get this one covered.

 

Here in Norway, just the exhaust manifold cost 5 500 NOK, about 550 £, and then the work cost comes on top with about 1000 nok/100£ per hour, my *** hurts!  :unsure:  :wacko:

 

It all started with that I smelled exhaust fumes inside my car wen I was idling when the car stood still.

I removed the heat shield over the manifold and this was totaly black underneath because of the sot, pictures below.

 

 

 

What you need.

 

1. Socket wrench set

2. Allen key set

3. Plastic gloves, I used this with one plastig strip to "blind" the hoses i took of. I did not have a hose clamp  :P 

4. I used 2 Car stands, so I could access the car from beneath.

5.One good rust lubrication! I bought one really good at my local Würth dealer. Highly recommended on those rusty bolts!

6. I bought my manifoild kit from www.balmerlawngroup.co.uk, Superb kit! 

 

KGrHqZhE1fKuEONBNgHb4WBqg_12.jpg

 

7. I used 7 hours on this job, we had some problems with some of the exhaust bolt

 

 

 

Start of work!

 

1. Remove the engine cover, it is 4, 10 mm screws. 

 

 

motorlokktegning.jpg

 

 

 

 

2. Remove  the vacum hoose, the coolant hose, breather hose and oil hose

 

I just used the plastic gloves and a plastic strip to blind the coolant and oil hose.

 

20140911_111349.jpg

 

The breather hose is number 9, just loos it from the cylinder head cover

 

E__3900.jpg

 

The coolant hose beneath, as you can see on the first picture. There will come out some coolant here, so try to blind this hose as fast as you can if you dont have hoose clamps. All this coolant is coming from the inside heatexchanger. The small hose is the oil hose, remove the clamp on this one also. If you manage take of the air hoose clamp to the turbo and pry the hose off.

 

3. Remove the heat shield over the manifold

 

The heat shield is attached with 3 screws (nuber 4 on the drawing), 14 mm. The new manifold has only 2

You may have to fiddle some to get the shield out from its place, but keep calm and it will come out.

 

E__3400.jpg

 

This is how mine looked beneath, it is clearly a exhaust leakage!

 

20140911_113919.jpg

 

 

 

4. Under the car, remove the flex part on the exhaust,

 

The flex is number 8 in the picture, 

The bolts and nuts are 14 mm

Remove the bracket that is holding the flex part also

B__0202.jpg

 

20140911_111825.jpg

 

20140911_111831.jpg

 

 

 

 

5. Remove the 2 air hoses from the turbo if you did not do if from above

 

6. Remove the coolant and oil pipe lines that oes in/out from the turbo, and goes into the engine block.

 

You have to remove the lines completely, I managed to losen it from the turbo, and on the returline og the oil. The coolant from the tom of the engine I managed to loosen from the top of the engine. The last pipe is at the left og the engine bay, this one is easier to remove from the bottom of the enginge

 

The line you have to loosen is nr 1 and 13.

 

Just take your time.

 

E__3410.jpg

 

7. Remove the Converter that goes in tho the turbo

 

On this one I used a lot of rust lubricant, do not stress on this if it is stuck or you will brake the nuts form and they you are in s**** up to your ears

 

 

E__3420.jpg

 

8. Remove the Turbocharger

 

On this you have to be gentel so you don't brake the vacuum clock on top of the turbo, and make sure the pipes for the coolant and oil to the turbo is taken care of.

Used a lot of rust lubicant on these 3 bolt also, this lubricant is fantastic!

When the nuts are off, remove the supporting bracket, remove turbocharger away brom the exhaust maifold, and down and out from the engine bay.

 

9. Remove the exhaust manifold

 

Use the rust lubricant on this also! There are 8 nuts on the manifold.

 

E__3400-1.jpg

 

This is how mine looked after the removal, you can clearly see that the welding is cracked! This is not good, exhaust fuems inside the car is dangerous! I think Honda should have exstended the waranty of this failure to 10 years. This manifold has been usen on the Diesel engine sine they came in 2003/2004

 

20140911_162226.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9. Installing the new exhaust manifold 

 

Just do it revere order, just make sure that you remeber to put on new gaskets if you have bought the complete set/kit

 

When you are attaching the turbo, there is a trick to attache the pipe lines before you tighten the turbo down on the manifold.

 

The rest is easy peacy  :P

 

Make sure that everything is connected back again, the coolant hoses, oil hooses, vacum and breather hooses, before start up!

 

I had to to off my coolant before start up, i managed to spill some when I removed the coolant hose  :lol:

 

When you start, just let it run for 10-20 secunds on the 3-5 first start, tis is to make the oil and coolant come trough the system.

 

A little tips in the end, if you have no warm air inside the car from the aircon when the car engine is warm, you have to top off your coolant level, and maybe get the air out.

 

 

I bought a complete set, but you can just buy the manifold also. If you have welding equipment you can weld the old one also

 

I have alot of pictures but I was not allowed to add more  :huh:

 

Hope this helps!

 

Best regards from Norway  :D

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


  • OB1, Matt, Cliffordski and 4 others like this


#39645 Anti-Roll Bar D Bush Replacement

Posted by J4JAV on 10 March 2011 - 07:59 PM

Hi Guys,

As you know I have the TEIN coilovers fitted on my Accord and since fitting these I always noticed a spongy type of knock from the rear nearside. It was only there occasionally and worse on speed bumps... so after some inspection I noticed the Anti Roll Bar D Bush was worn from the edge which was causing this noise & im glad it wasn't too worn otherwise I would have got my first ever advisory or even a fail on the MOT!

So today got these from Honda, cost under £4 (inc VAT) each so at that price I just bought a pair replace both sides...

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Now it was time to jack up the back end of the car, I used an ordinary jack and lifted it from the rear jacking point and got out the jack stands, make sure the car is safe and use a jack stand on both sides as well as a safety block/brick on the front wheels...

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A handheld lamp is useful here and you will need a rachet & socket size 12 with a extension to make it easier for you to remove the two bolts as shown below, also beware they are very tough to remove but with a slight tighten and then back anti clockwise to loosen makes it easier :)

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Bracket removed, two bolts...

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This then reveals the actual rubber D Bush and this just simply clips off the bar, there is already a split in the bush for this...

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The bar without the bush on...

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The old bush VS the new one, you can notice the worn edge which caused the occasional knock and spongy noise...

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New bush just simply clipped on, make sure the open edge of the bush the split is facing towards the back of the car this is the correct way to fit this...

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Then the bracket is back on after some cleaning of the bolts, bracket & the base...

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The other side is done the same way here are before and after pics below, just a bit awkward to get to as the exhaust is here but not rocket science...

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Now took the car for a quick test drive over some speed bumps and few corners and all is working 100% and the noise has gone :) so just under £8 for a pair from Honda and 30mins DIY I hope this saves some of our members some labour costs :) it is very simple guys :)

Hope it helps and thanks for reading...
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#90626 HID KITS - INSTALLATION GUIDE

Posted by TheHole on 08 January 2012 - 09:53 AM

As you many have seen there is now a HID guide on the forum, explaining the colours, intensities etc.
Some one... Not mentioning his name *Cough* crespo *Cough* took my idea and made it 'his own' ;) (Cheeky man! :lol: )

So Anyway, back on topic and let’s get grubby!

First things first... you will need:
About 2 hours maybe 3 depending on how confident you are. I can do this in roughly 90 minutes from getting tools to putting them back with everything working.
1 Kit of HID's
A set of sockets / ratchets
A big flat blade screwdriver
A Phillips screwdriver
Double sided sticky foam
Mentholated spirits (to clean, not to get high on!)
A hand drill / Pillar drill (preferably the latter of the two)
A hole cutter / wood hole cutter (21 - 23mm dia)
A sharp knife
Some wood.
Some carpet / foam or cardboard
Rubber gloves (thin ones)
Cable ties or insulation tape.
Toilet paper / cloth

Optional:
Beer
Tea
Blood
A new found issue with torrets
A set of girly hands


After chilling out and reading this once, print it out and take it outside to help you. I have installed Hid kits in to 4 separate Accords now (this will be my 5th time, but second time on my own Accord) and I must admit I have found a good way of getting things done with as little fuss as possible.

To start off with, let’s open the bonnet and take off the front panel
Posted Image
To do this you will need a fat flat screwdriver. Posted Image
Prise carefully up like this: Posted Image
Posted Image

And out comes this:
Posted Image
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#8716 DIY - Diesel Oil Service

Posted by joooe on 07 September 2010 - 11:22 AM

And off we go with the mechanical blood.

Posted Image




Remember, it's 5,9 litre. I've used 5,7 litre right away without checking the dipstick. Then waited a minute or two and checked the oil level.


Added a bit more of oil and then I started the car for a couple of minutes to allow the oil to flow.

Engine off again, waited a couple of minutes again and checked the oil. It was a bit over the lower mark.
Then added the remaining oil slowly, checking in between.

Keep an eye in the oil plug to see if it leaks. Check for oil marks on the floor. Keep an eye on the oil filter too, to see if all is fine.

Dispose the old oil properly!


That's it!

Sorry for my English.
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#70115 8th Gen Saloon Boot Lid

Posted by James2512 on 28 August 2011 - 07:49 PM

Guys,

Very basic write up here of how i have made my own mod to assist the boot lid with opening the full way with the use of an expansion spring. Guide and pictures below, as always any work copied is at other peoples risk!

Bits required:

1x 180mm long expansion spring
1x 6mm x 80mm long bolt
3x securing nuts
1x washer
1x cable tie (heavy duty)

I still want to tidy this install up but thought i would share with you all the work so far.

Step 1 - choose a side to mod, i went with the right hand side lifting arm.

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Step 2 - gentle to remove the carpet trim, i suggest a blunt knife or similar to assist. Remeber to remove the plastic securing clip by the lifting arm and the one behind the carpet level with the rear light.

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Now i would strongly recommend removing the whole carpet assembly but I wanted to see if this could work so I worked with the carpet in the way.

Step 3- Remove the 2x plastic clips holding the plastic trunking to the lifting arm, and replace with a 6mm x 80mm long bolt.

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Step 4 - Once the bolt is through, add a securing nut to the bolt lightly clamping the plastic trunking to the steel inner bar. At this point you can now add the spring and add the washer and retaing nut, the washer is here only to prevent the spring sliding off the bolt.

Step 5 - Locate the pre-drilled hole on the body brace bar as the picture below and add the cable tie and pull close to the brace bar.

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Step 6 - the danger part - please please be careful incase the spring snaps back as it could cause injury to hands, eyes or face. - Right stretch the spring and hook onto the cable tie, once secured the job is near completion.

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I would recomend testing the boot operation at this point, again be careful and operate the boot slowly to ensure no damage is caused and the boot shuts with a bit of resistance behind it. Once closed, place your hand infront of the back window before opening with the remote. I suggest this in case the spring you have chosen to use opens the boot too fast and causes damage, hopefully your hand will provent this!

To be honest you will have the feeling if the spring is under too much tension when trying to shut the boot, if it feels tight get a better spring as its not worth the risk causing damage or injury.

If happy with the operation then re-fit all you carpet and admire your new fully opening boot! No more putting stuff on the floor in the rain!

As mentioned at the start i will look to tidy this up but i will see how the mod goes for a while before i do and report back. I will also ask the father in law if he can get anymore of those springs as those who want to do this may want one.

Forgot to add the links to videos:

My link

My link
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#428 DIY: Full engine service on the Pre Facelift i-CTDI Accord

Posted by F6HAD on 08 August 2010 - 03:12 PM

It's a common misconception that modern cars need to go to the main dealer for everything..

The whole purpose of our community is to help our members diagnose and rectify faults themselves where possible, and try and undertake most maintenance jobs with the basic of skills.

I'm not a trained mechanic at all, and have really only the basic of DIY skills. However I am really interested in learning new skills all the time, and would rather invest the money I would pay a mechanic into tools for myself.. that way I have invested in tools I can re-use.

So.. when the first big service was due in early 2009, I called CJ over and we decided to give it a go.

The service included:

  • Oil and Oil Filter Change
  • Pollen Filter
  • Air Filter Change
  • Fuel Filter Change
  • Transmission Fluid Change
  • Full visual inspection following the Honda Service Inspection Notes

Clutch and Brake Fluid were excluded as they were done seperately and I wasn't confident in doing this at home and possibly introducing air into the system.

In our experience, it's absolutely vital you are using genuine quality parts for your Accord - especially where the fuel filter is concerned. Nearly every single engine problem we are seeing with the diesel Accord is down to the fuel filter.

It's a fiddly job on the fuel filter, due to it's location and the rear bolts - so a lot of dealers tend to skip it and only drain it from the bottom. I've seen member cars where the filter hasn't obviously been done in 5 years!!

A clogged filter will restrict fuel pressure and cause a whole host of engine management problems including, missing, restricted power and even cutting out.

So back to the service.

Safety is absolutely vital, you need to ensure you are working safely in everything you do. Use good quality axle stands (don't rely just on the jack) and use wheel chocks at the back.

You need to raise the front of the vehicle to drain the gearbox and oil fluids.

So first thing to do is remove the engine cover, held on with 4 10mm bolts. Ensure you don't lose the washers under the bolts and the rubber mounts are seated correctly otherwise your cover will rattle on refitting.

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Anyone recognise him :) (no it's not me lol)
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We started with the easy stuff first and first thing changed was the air filter. The air filter is inside the black box on the n/s of the vehicle (if you can't locate this then maybe you shouldn't be attempting this service)

It's held on with 4 8mm bolts. The filter only goes in one way and one direction.

Notice old vs new (my old one was a Blueprint part from when the company serviced it as a company car)

Posted Image

The Pollen filter was next. This is located behind the glovebox. (your owners manual tells you how to renew this, again very easy). Remove the single phillips screw from the glovebox arm and lower it, and the black tray behind it unclips and slides out - remove the old filter, clean any debris etc and fit the new filter and refit the tray and glovebox.

Again notice old vs new
Posted Image

Then we move onto the big stuff. Fuel filter first.

I wish I had more pics, but it's hard to get the camera in - you'll just have to try and follow your instincts. Effectively what you are doing is removing the filter housing and priming bulb, and then slipping off the supply and return pipes from the filter. Once the filter is on, you need to ensure it's been bled properly - this is done via the little nut on the top of the filter - once the air has stopped expelling and fuel is coming out - it's bled.

You need to use the priming bulb to keep priming the filter until the bulb goes hard. My advice would be to prime it until it goes hard, then bleed it - then do it again to be sure. Any air in the system will give you problems later on.

It's perfectly normal for the car to take a few extra cranks on restart, and sometimes the engine management light comes on for a few seconds, but will go off when you restart if the fuel pressure is correct.


This is the filter (note the black housing has been removed - it's held on with 10mm bolts)
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Here we're working on the bolts
Posted Image

The hardest bit is the rear 10mm bolt at the back of the filter bracket. It's a pain as you can't easily access it and have enough room to swing a spanner. I've seen Holdcroft do this and they use a special 90 degree pneumatic tool which just whips it off in seconds. I've done this job a few times now and the best way to do it is to get hold of a small (the smallest you can get) ratchet knuckle (wobbly bit or whatever you call it) with a 10mm socket on it. Just be patient, it will come loose.

Don't remove it, just loosen it enough to get the filter off.

Old filter vs new
Posted Image

Please note, I've said this before and will say it again and again and again till I'm blue in the face.. USE A GENUINE HONDA FUEL FILTER ON THE DIESEL ACCORD.

Do not give into the temptation to save money and buy from a motor factor. The filter is a Bosch item and yes you can buy Bosch filters from Euro Car Parts and everywhere else but the genuine item is the only one to go for if you want trouble free motoring. The engine management system is very sensitive on the diesel Accord and it has sensors to check for fuel pressure at the rail - if they are even slightly out, to prevent engine damage, your car will go into limp mode.

Simple as, please don't complain if you buy a non genuine item and then have problems.

Right that's enough on the fuel filter... it should take you no longer than an hour on the first attempt if you follow my advice (took us over an hour but we really struggled with the rear bolt) - use anti seize on any bolts you remove.

Next was the gearbox oil. Again this is described and explained in the owners manual. It's really quite straightforward.

You need to remove the undertray to do this job. The undertray has plastic removable clips, from memory there's 4 on the front section and some at the back, plus one on each corner of the arch liner. There's also a couple of bolts (might be 13mm) on each front corner of the undertray. I've since done this job on a mates car and did it without removing the undertray completely from the car, just enough to get the bucket underneath to catch the oil.

The drain bolt is on the front of the gearbox - you can see the fluid coming out in this picture. You need a special key, any LASER or other gearbox plug key set will have the size on it.

Posted Image

The fill plug is on the top of the gearbox. CJ and I really struggled as we didn't think to check the owners manual and spent ages looking for it. As always it was the last place we looked!! And was in the owners manual. Just look down from the top between the battery and the front of the airbox and you'll see it.

Please also note that the fill plug has a washer on the plug so don't lose it. A magnetic picker tool comes in useful for these jobs.

You need to fill with 2.2 litres of Honda MTF3 Gearbox oil - dont' use anything else. Also note that Honda recommend something lik 75k intervals but I noticed an immediate improvement at 50k miles.

Finally, the engine oil.

ONLY USE 0W/30 FULLY SYNTHETIC OIL IN THE ACCORD DIESEL

Forget everything the manual tells you. I don't doubt Honda ever, but really in the UK climate, and the sensitive nature of the alloy block and internals on the i-CTDI engine, you need to use the best oil money can buy.

Again, the procedure is in the owners manual.

Drain the oil from the bottom (if you already have the undertray off for the gearbox oil then that's fine, otherwise there's a small hatch for the sump plug in the undertray meaning you don't need to remove the tray altogether).

Drain the oil completely and renew the washer on the sump plug and refit.

The Oil filter is at the top, a black plastic cannister at the front of the engine.

Use an oil filter removal tool. Remove the paper oil fitler and all 3 rubber washers, and renew the washers with the items you get in your new filter box. Renew the filter and refit.

Ensure you torque the filter cannister to the correct setting - it's marked on the top of the housing. Or if you dont' have a torque wrench, then before removal, mark it with some tipex to know where it sat on full tight.

The oil quantity is actually 5.9 litres in this engine. But don't just stick 5.9 litres in straight away.

I would say pop in about 5.2 litres, and then just keep topping it bit by bit, checking with the dipstick each time.

The minimum and maximum markers on your dipstick represent 1 litre of oil, so don't be mistaken into thinking that the minimum marker means there's no oil!!

And that's it. Remember to refit your engine tray and the top cover, and ensure you double check every bolt you've been over.

You've just saved yourself a couple of hundred quid in labour charges at the dealer, and have the satisfaction of knowing you did it yourself.

Do spend some time and check everything else indicated on the service inspection sheet, or if you're like me you're probably regularly checking the mechanicals anyway :lol:

Hope that helps some of you.

Fahad.
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#244592 Honda VIN numbers

Posted by freddofrog on 22 May 2017 - 04:14 AM

Since the 90's (IIRC) all VIN numbers have 17 characters.

 

The first 3 are basically the manufacturer and country of origin

So 7th and 8th gen EU Accords, built in Japan, begin with JHM

 

The next 3 are the vehicle model, see this thread --> http://typeaccord.co...3cw1cw2cw3-etc/

 

The next 2 are the trim level

 

The 9th is usually a zero 

 

The 10th is the year the car was assembled

 

The 11th is the factory

 

The last 6 are the serial number, and they usually begin with 20 or 21

 

Examples (I've used a serial number 201111 on all)

 

JHMCL76803C201111 = 2003 CL7 Exec = 2.0 Saloon trim code 68

JHMCL76404C201111 = 2004 CL7 Sport = 2.0 Saloon trim code 64

JHMCN15505C201111 = 2005 CN1 Exec = 2.2 Saloon trim code 55

JHMCN15204C201111 = 2004 CN1 Sport = 2.2 Saloon trim code 52

JHMCM18703C201111 = 2003 CM1 Exec = 2.0 Tourer trim code 87
JHMCN27405C201111 = 2005 CN2 Sport = 2.2 Tourer trim code 74
JHMCM27803C201111 = 2003 CM2 Exec = 2.4 Tourer trim code 78
 
Note that if you ever need to submit a VIN and are concerned about that, submit the VIN but with the last 4 digits as a random number. This works because it's only the first 11 characters that are relevant to your car.
 
On a really geeky point, entering a VIN for a 2.2 into this website --> http://www.lingshond...s-diagrams.html  always gives at least two KE options (KE = UK)
 
e.g. JHMCN27405C201111
gives two options , one option has VSA, the other option does not have VSA.  
This relates to this thread --> http://typeaccord.co...e-question-lol/
 
 
 

 


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#242960 Haynes US Accord workshop manuals.

Posted by freddofrog on 30 April 2017 - 11:27 AM

Is there any possibility that someone would be so kind to upload this to Dropbox via a zip or iso somehow for myself only? I have quite a bit of work to do on my CL7 Accord and would highly appreciate a manual of some sort to help me along the way.

 

Cheers

 

I've just uploaded the 138MB zipped "esm7gen" directory (english only) to a Dropbox account ---->   https://www.dropbox....sm7gen.zip?dl=0

 

Available to anyone ;)

 

 

late edit:

 

I thought I better provide an image of "esm7gen" Properties when unzipped

 

esm7gen_properties.jpg


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#242264 Metallic clatter

Posted by Miah on 20 April 2017 - 10:38 AM

Well, as it turned out, it isn't the oil pump chain, yet, at least. I dug out my mechanics stethoscope and everywhere on the engine and ancillaries sounded fine, except the alternator.

 

Figured it must be some kind of odd bearing failure, so phoned up a local alternator shop and headed over there. Took it in, and five minutes later the guy comes back and tells me, bearings are fine, it's your pulley.

 

Turns out these alternators have some kind of fancy clutched pulley, and after well over an hour of them wrestling with this alternator and a dead one they had kicking about (but which had a good pulley) away I went 84 quid lighter but with a quiet alternator.

 

Can see the bearing on the back of the alternator pulley itself is well on its way to destruction, most of the ball bearing cage was completely missing.

 

Fitted back on the car and no more noise, so happy days.

 

Quite a mission getting the old alternator out though on the diesel with aircon. Ended up dismantling most of the front end, but if everything was being less stubborn I reckon you could do it with just the left hand fan out.


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#234616 Littlebo/UKCL9 CL9/CM2 - K24 Reflash/Remap Test ECU

Posted by IloveJapan on 19 September 2016 - 09:21 AM

One week after reflash, I need to do a full review of it. 
 
First I want to congratulate Frazer for its professionnalism. Monday, I shipped 2 ECU  by TNT express from France, they were delivered tuesday afternoon... Tuesday evening, Frazer has flashed  the ECUs and then they were picked back wednesday by TNT express. Thursday both ECU were back to my office in Paris! Great!!! 
 
In add, as we've paid just a lit bit more than expected, Frazer has refunded me very quickly.
 
Now tests... As I said previously, I don't like 0-100 km/h (not good for clutch, gearbox, gimbals....), so I measure 50 to 130 km/h acceleration in each gear (3, 4, 5, 6). My setup has only Fujita CAI, sure results will be better with full bolt-on add-ons.
 
 
50 to 130km/h, 6th gear:
Stock ECU has a kind of "hollow" at 2500rpm, reflashed ECU erase it completely.
 
50 to 130km/h, 5th gear:
 
50 to 130km/h, 4th gear:
On the last 2 videos in 5th and 4th gear, it's clear that the gain is at the low-end torque, below 3000-3500 rpm, then both stock  & reflashed seem to accelerate similarly.
 
50 to 130km/h, 3rd gear:
On this last video, we can see the growing gap in VTEC starting at 4500rpm
 
50 to 130km/h, 2nd gear (no comparison)

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#214241 CL7,CL8,CL9,CM1,CM2,CM3,CN1,CN2,CU1,CU2,CU3,CW1,CW2,CW3 etc

Posted by freddofrog on 04 May 2015 - 03:31 AM

Here is the list of chassis codes for Accords in the UK
These codes will be found in the 4th, 5th, 6th characters of your VIN
Unless stated otherwise, the codes below can be found on UK cars
i.e. this is not a complete list, other chassis codes exist for non-EU models
 
8th gen
CU1 = 2.0 petrol saloon
CU2 = 2.4 petrol saloon
CU3 = 2.2 diesel saloon
 
CW1 = 2.0 petrol tourer
CW2 = 2.4 petrol tourer
CW3 = 2.2 diesel tourer
 
7th gen
CL7 = 2.0 petrol saloon
CL8 = 2.0 petrol saloon 4WD (not UK)
CL9 = 2.4 petrol saloon
 
CM1 = 2.0 petrol tourer
CM2 = 2.4 petrol tourer
CM3 = 2.4 petrol tourer 4WD (not UK)
 
CN1 = 2.2 diesel saloon
CN2 = 2.2 diesel tourer
CN3 = 3.0 petrol hybrid (not UK)
 
6th gen
CG1 to CG6 - USA models
CG7 = 1.6 petrol saloon
CG8 = 1.8 petrol saloon
CG9 = 2.0 petrol saloon
 
CH1 = 2.2 petrol saloon (Type-R)
CH2 to CH4 unused
CH5 = 1.6 petrol tourer
CH6 = 1.8 petrol tourer
CH7 = 2.0 petrol tourer
CH8 = 2.0 diesel 
CH9 = 2.3 petrol tourer
 
CL1 = 2.2 petrol saloon (Euro-R)
CL2 = 2.3 petrol tourer 4WD (not UK)
CL3 = 2.0 petrol saloon
CL4 to CL6 not used
 
 
5th, 4th, etc
chassis codes were not unique to engine in the car
but feel free to add any codes you have for your car + engine (only if it is the original engine)

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#198198 Inlet manifold de-coke (2 Cars done)

Posted by Simon1602 on 11 October 2014 - 03:07 PM

Hi guys,

Thought I'd share my latest efforts to improve the running of my trusty Tourer....

Having dealt with the EGR issue I decided to give the butterfly valve a good clean up, and go one step further and de-coke the inlet manifold, have noticed some pretty heavy carbon deposits in the pipe from the EGR.

Started by removing the engine cover:

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Next up disconnected the feeds to the swirl valve solenoid....and removed the swirl valve....as previously seen this was very glooped up with sticky carbon deposit and I doubt it was operating well or allowing a smooth passage of air:

52f03c50eb9f9cda1ab42f856f732b83_zps3f91

Dirty parts....

This shows the inlet manifold after removing swirl valve:

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Inlet portion:

06badf59d75368411783806004fabd0c_zps9a9f

Swirl valve:


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Sensor:

890e3ad2eb407fad397cded6dc5de2be_zpsf3b0

Next the fuel rail was removed to allow access to remove the inlet manifold:

b560a383c0dcc9a2198868915778ca5c_zps0078

Then off with the inlet manifold to reveal heavy carbonisation:

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We scrapped out what we could manually...which was a lot!

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8d963a3331bed4f561974471dd94d840_zps09bd


Next up the manifold was placed in a bucket of coke to soak overnight....I am reliably informed this is a great cleaner!


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Finally I cleaned up the swirl valve etc using brake cleaner, a tooth brush and an old rag....

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bcd87a1b7da3d1e6bac264e708bdccd2_zps7366

Part two tomorrow when we will finish cleaning the inlet manifold and put the lot back together 😃
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#158968 I-CTDI manual transmission fluid change

Posted by Tarmac Terror on 14 July 2013 - 10:37 PM

Decided to spend this afternoon in the garage servicing the Accord. I was unsure about some of the detail on how to change the transmission fluid on the I-CTDI, even after referring to the handbook it was still a bit vague. I thought while doing this I would take a couple of photos (well the wife took some of them) and post a short how-to guide on the forum for the benefit of others.

Tools needed:
10 mm spanner or socket
3/8" ratchet or 1/2" to 3/8 adapter
12" 3/8" extension bar
Flat blade screwdriver
Drain pan capable of holding at least 3L

Other items needed:
3 x 1L bottles of MTF3
crush washer
funnel and plastic tube
axel stands or ramps
paper towels or rags


By far the most important step in the process is step 1 - make sure the filler plug can be located and undone. I will type this again - make sure you can locate and open the filler bolt.

Look behind the battery, just in front of the airbox, you should see a bolt with a square recess in the top of it. This is the bolt you need to remove to be able to fill the gearbox after draining.

I took this pic while refilling, but it shows where you need to look. It took a bit of effort to crack this open on my motor (first MTF change), I have a 3ft steel tube which fits on the handle of my ratchet, it needed a reasonable amount of force on that to loosen this bolt. There is a crush washer on the bolt, which you can see in the pic. Because the 3/8" extension bar fitted neatly into the square recess, the bolt remains on the extension bar, just as a socket would, this enabled the bolt to be withdrawn leaving the washer behind. As the filler bolt is well above the level of the fluid, I did not replace this washer.

Posted Image

Take your car for a short drive to bring the fluids up to temperature, although MTF fluid flows quite well when cold, it will drain more easily when warm.

Jack up the front of the car and place it on axel stands or raise the front of the car on ramps.

Get underneath and remove the undertray. It is secured by 4 10mm bolts at each corner, and plastic pop-rivets. Two of these are up in the drivers side front wheel arch, and one in the passenger side front wheel arch.

locate the drain plug and level inspection bolt.

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From a wider angle

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and in relation to the engine oil sump bolt.

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Using a 10mm socket or spanner, remove the inspection bolt. If your car is level and the oil level is correct, a little fluid should dribble out of this hole once the bolt is removed. If the car is lifted at the front end only, no fliud will come out on removal.

Using your 3/8" ratchet, undo the drain bolt and remove it, placing your drain pan underneath to catch the drained fluid. Allow this to drain most of the fluid. If your car is lifted at the front only, I would recommend levelling the car either by raising the rear end, or lower the front. By doing so, about another half litre of old fluid can be drained.

The drain bolt is magnetised on the end, which will catch any swarf floating around in your gearbox. A light black coating of fine particles is normal, wipe this clean with paper towels or rags.

Once fully drained, install the drain bolt with a new crush washer, but do not replace the inspection bolt. At this point you need to ensure the car is level, using either of the methods above. Reposition the drain pan if necessary to ensure it will catch any fluid escaping from the inspection hole during refilling.

Open the 3 containers of MTF3 transmission fluid
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Carefully insert the plastic tube through the washer left behind when removing the refill bolt, and on into the refill hole on the top of the gearbox. Attach your funnel to the plastic hose and carefully begin to refill the gearbox with the first and second litre of MTF3.
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Check the hole where the inspection bolt had been removed, it is unlikely any fluid will be escaping just yet. Continue with your third litre of fluid (manual states 2.2 litres for fluid change), at the point where fluid starts to spill from the inspection hole, the gearbox is filled. You can now reinstall the bolt removed from the inspection hole.

Personally I dont see any harm in slightly overfilling the gearbox, I added around another 200ml, your choice on whether you do this on your car or not. I also coat all drain / refill bolts on my car with copper grease with a high graphite content as I hate siezed bolts, again, this is entirely optional.

Carefully remove the plastic tube from the filler hole, ensuring not to lose the washer left down there.

Using your extension bar, carefully install the filler bolt through the washer and tighten this down.

Wipe off any fluid remaining around the inspection bolt and drain bolt, ensure there is no fluid leaking from either of these. Take your car for a short drive to warm the fluid, then recheck for any leakage.

Refit the undertray, tidy away your tools, dispose of old fluid responsibily - job done!
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