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#116232 Diagnosing Aircon Problems

Posted by freddofrog on 29 May 2012 - 08:50 AM

Note that all pictures below are from my car which is a 7th Gen 2.4 Tourer. The way the aircon system works will be the same in other models, but there may be differences in the layout of the fuse/relay block in the engine compartment.

The schematic below is from the Haynes for the petrol Honda Accord 2003 thru 2007, USA MARKET. I have found most of the sections on engine and transmission to be compatible with my car. In the schematic, I have labeled the relay used by the system to switch the compressor clutch on/off, as B. This relay is a good place to check the compressor.

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The picture below shows the location of the compressor clutch relay B in the fuse/relay block.

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With the engine off and without the key in the ignition, remove the relay. Removal is made easier by pulling out relays A & C (the two blue Omron relays), after which the compressor clutch relay B can be removed, then replace relays A & C.

The picture below shows the compressor clutch relay removed.

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The picture below shows a wire inserted into one of the slots. This slot is the feed to the compressor clutch.

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By connecting the wire to the positive battery terminal, the compressor clutch will be energized. This can be done without the engine running, and without the key in the ignition. The picture below shows the other end of the wire on the positive battery terminal. When this is done, an audible clunk should be heard, which indicates that the compressor clutch is working. If you have a DVM, the current is around 3 amps (so gauge of wire is not important). Do not leave the wire like this for more than a few seconds.

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If you cannot hear a clunk, then you have a problem with the compressor clutch (either the solenoid is not working, or the thermal protection circuit in the compressor has operated, or possibly the clutch itself is jammed). see here for exploded view of compressor

If you can hear a clunk, perform the next check. Use the wire to bridge across to the slot adjacent and parallel to the slot where you placed the wire earlier.

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If you cannot hear a clunk now, then check the compressor clutch fuse (D in the schematic and earlier picture). Remove the fuse using the accessory for pulling fuses, as shown in the picture below.

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If you did hear a clunk when connecting the wire to battery positive, and also when bridging to the adjacent slot, then you either have a faulty relay, or the system is not closing the relay.

The picture below shows my relay. This was faulty. I removed the plastic cover and sprayed the relay contacts with switch cleaner, and the relay has been working ever since. This saved me a few £10’s in the cost of a new Honda relay, and it has been working like this for a year now.

The two upper tabs in the picture operate the relay coil, and the two lower tabs are connected to the relay contacts.

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The picture below shows how to check a relay. I managed to do this with one hand (other hand is holding the camera). It’s easier with two hands, hold one of the coil tabs against the battery terminal then touch the other coil tab with a wire connected to the other battery terminal.

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Obviously, DO NOT let the wire touch both battery terminals at the same time, else you will get a big flash (and a small probability that a battery could explode). If you don’t have a steady hand, don’t attempt this.

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If the relay is working, you will be able to feel and hear the contacts closing.

An alternative is to run the engine until the engine cooling fan starts to operate. Then swap the compressor clutch relay with the cooling fan relay (they are the same). If the cooling fan still operates, then the relay was ok.


If you can hear a clunk from the compressor, then it is working. If the compressor clutch fuse is ok, then check the relay.

If the compressor clutch is working, and the fuse is ok, and the relay is ok, then you have a fault elsewhere in the schematic diagram e.g. low gas pressure


Remove the compressor clutch relay. Start the engine, and put the aircon to its coldest setting. Make sure you can feel the blower running and air coming through the vents.

Now energize the compressor clutch by connecting the wire from the slot to the battery positive terminal. WARNING, DO NOT LEAVE IT LIKE THIS FOR MORE THAN 30 SECONDS, DEFINITELY NO MORE THAN A MINUTE AT THE MOST, AND DO NOT REPEAT AGAIN FOR ANOTHER MINUTE. IF YOU LEAVE IT LIKE THIS WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING YOU MAY OVER PRESSURISE THE SYSTEM. There is a safety pressure valve in the compressor, but do not rely on it operating !!!

With the compressor clutch energized, if there is enough gas in the system, you will feel cold air coming out of the vents. If you are confident that the compressor clutch relay is ok, then the pressure sensor may be faulty.

However, there could also be other faults that are stopping the system from operating the relay, such as faulty temperature sensors.

see here for locations of temperature sensors

see here for exploded view of heater and evaporator unit

the condenser can also be perished and inefficient (this is in front of the radiator and can be seen through the front grills

aircon pipework
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#243139 Who are you really?

Posted by Stevearcade on 02 May 2017 - 07:59 PM

Nice idea Matt.


  1. I have a half Japanese son (JDM Life, Bro  :lol: )
  2. I trained as a jazz pianist in my youth, but due to some bad career decisions and laziness I now work in education, teaching music performance, studio production and sound engineering
  3. I do freelance composition, production alongside my teaching - mostly mock 80s stuff, glossy synths, drum machines, cheesy chords and melodies... I also do freelance live sound work
  4. Despite my username, I'm not the massive video game nerd people think I am. I have a deep appreciation for many games, but I probably don't play as many or as broad a range of games as people think I do.
  5. I have a slightly unhealthy love for Ghostbusters and one day plan to set myself up with replica, identical to original movie outfit and proton pack and have a white estate car that I convert to an Ecto Mobile. Seriously, I'm not being funny. This is a genuine ambition. Go watch Ghostheads on Netflix. I wanna do that!

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#34437 Real Honda Part Numbers On Lings

Posted by nick on 14 February 2011 - 10:16 PM

From a different Honda Forum I frequent some clever guy has come up with a way to show the real Honda part numbers rather than the one Lings have made up.

Follow the instructions and prepare for the awesomeness!

Find your parts i.e

/honda_car_parts_selection_pfk.php?block_01=17SED01&block_02=B__0800&block_03=509 (http://www.hondaoriginalparts.com deleted so it shows the whole thing)

Lings Part Numbers

And in the 'part number' column you'll have all the Lings specific part numbers. Now edit the URL, and remove the "_pfk" part before the ".php" part. You'll end up with something like:

/honda_car_parts_selection.php?block_01=17SED01&block_02=B__0800&block_03=509 (http://www.hondaoriginalparts.com)

Honda Part Numbers

Bobs your Uncle, Fannies your Aunt that's all from me. Good Night.

Add a rep point if you like it ;)
  • Pepster, Paul, davecmr and 5 others like this

#243125 Who are you really?

Posted by Goodluckmonkey on 02 May 2017 - 04:09 PM

One of the interesting things about being on forums is that you get odd glimpses into who people are, and you build an image of their personality and hobbies.

Then you get to meet them in person and find you were totally wrong.

So who are you really? Where does your money go besides maintaining a mid-sized 4-wheeled sofa?
How about 5 facts that explain a little more about who you are?

Me? Well, I have 2 young kids who keep the wife and I busy.
I race off-road events on motorbikes approx once a month to keep myself sane.
I love sci-fi films.
I have always wanted to play a musical instrument but have no rhythm whatsoever, so stick to drumming my fingers on my desk, badly.
I drink tea like it's going out of fashion. At my wedding, as the first drink after the ceremony, they brought me out a cuppa - start as you mean to go on.
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#189556 Littlebo/UKCL9 CL9/CM2 - K24 Reflash/Remap Test ECU

Posted by Stevearcade on 14 June 2014 - 07:08 PM

Hi guys,


Yesterday I took delivery of the Test ECU courtesy of UKCL9. It was very well packaged and had been sent recorded delivery. Today, I was not working, but I drove to work, as I know this journey inside and out. I wanted to cleanse my driving palette and be as objective as possible. So I drove to work with the normal ECU. When I got to work, I installed the reflashed ECU. Then drove home. I then drove back to work again with the reflashed ECU and once at work, refitted my normal ECU and drove home. This meant I was on a mixture of high speed A roads, country lanes and busy town driving. I did both directions with both original and reflashed ECU. In fact I bookended the reflashed ECU with the stock one for maximum clarity, objectivity and to ensure there was no placebo effects.


I haven't spent a penny on this, I have nothing invested in it. This is an impartial and objective user review based on approximately 30 miles stock vs the same 30 miles reflashed.


Low Revs, low gears, busy town traffic, crawling around:


Car feels very similar to stock, but a little bit smoother with gear changes. I suffered less of the jerkiness that I sometimes get, although this is very circumstantial. Basically, below 2K I didn't notice a great deal of difference, but it was slightly smoother.


Above 2K RPM:


Car is more lively with reflash. It feels like it wants to take off more. It's nice, but requires a little getting used to. It's basically goading you to put your foot down and you need to exercise a little discipline. It zips through the Revs quicker than stock ECU, feels much more torquey.




This again, takes a little getting used to. The VTEC transition is extremely smooth, no kick as such, just a notable change in engine tone and you're very aware that you're rising through the revs and moving at quite some speed. Remaining in VTEC with gear shifts is very good. Makes the car feel much more ballsy and nothing was keeping up with me. The new Red Line of 7500 or 7800, whatever it is, is a little scary. It goes against your instinct to see the rev counter going deep into the red and the noise is insane. But I'm fairly confident from what I've read on Hondata that taking the revs this high is still safe.


General Operations


VSA can still be disabled, cruise control works fine, there were no fault codes on the ECU according to my bluetooth OBD reader and the Torque App on my phone. Torque App was indicating a minute MPG improvement on the Reflash, but this is circumstantial I believe and the difference wasn't noticeable enough to warrant any discussion really. At least, with how I was testing the high revs... But my next point could point towards long term gentle driving seeing a positive return in MPG perhaps?


General, Gentle Driving & Cruising:


The noticeable factor here is that you don't need to row the gears so much, I imagine due to the improved torque. Where I would sometimes have dropped a gear and upped the revs to pick up pace (e.g. going up hill), I can, with the reflashed ECU, just apply a little more throttle and there's sufficient torque there to pick up and pull, no downshifting required. I found I was leaving the car in high gears at low speeds for longer. More relaxing driving.


To Sum Up


I like it. I think there's a notable difference in drive quality. It's not rip your face off different, it's actually more sophisticated than that (until your into the depths of VTEC, then it really does rip your face off). The increase in torque in the lower rev range is nice to have and I think is probably the best thing about this map as it's ironed out the dull spots in the area where the engine spends most of its life. And as mentioned above, it's more rev-happy and lively too which makes it feel like a more engaging and enjoyable drive.


VTEC coming in earlier, meaning the VTEC window is larger and remains engaged during gear change is obviously a good thing for not losing momentum in overtaking scenarios and things. Takes a little getting used to though. My car feels/sounds like a bit of an animal at high revs now, what with the CAI and Stainless Exhaust, and even at naughty speeds, is eager to pull more :blink: .


I'm going to do a little more driving with it tomorrow to see if I notice anything else worth mentioning.




This review is my own personal experience and NOT an official endorsement by Type Accord.


There has been some heated discussion of late about the credibility of the claims made by those selling this map and the newness of members posting reviews. All I can say is, in my humble opinion (which I know for some, doesn't count for much) the car feels better with the reflashed ECU and it has done to the driving experience what was claimed it would. It is definitely not a placebo.


If you wish to contribute to this thread, ask questions or discuss things, please do. But, given the recent heated discussion in other threads, I won't tolerate any silliness of any sort in this thread. This is my review thread, not Littlebo/UKCL9's Reflash Thread Part 2. I trust we're all clear on this. Please keep things clean and keep personal snipes out of it. I won't be posting polite reminders if the mud flinging starts.

  • sfai, ukcl9, Cliffordski and 5 others like this

#109386 Howto - Thermostat replacing

Posted by skhell on 24 April 2012 - 10:18 PM

As some of you might know, I had some engine overheating issues, and the culprit was a dead thermostat.
I took some pictures of the process and decided to make this small howto.

Please note, my car runs on LPG, you might see "weird" things in the engine bay, such as the LPG filter or the LPG injectors. Also, my car is RHD, the LHD version may have other components near the thermostat housing, such as the brake or clutch elements.

The process is very simple. Make sure you are working on a cold engine, otherwise you can burn yourself, as the system is under pressure and the coolant can be quite hot.

The first thing to do is to remove the intake pipe which goes from the throttle body to the air filter box. This is quite easy, just loose two bolts, one on each end, pull off the pipe, and you are done. Make sure to remove the breather tube which goes from the intake pipe to the valve cover.

After doing that, you must get something like the next pictures, with the thermostat housing at sight.

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Then, remove the fan switch connector, and the bolts which hold the thermostat housing. There are 3 bolts which hold the thermostat housing: the 2 marked with a red arrow, and a third marked with a yellow arrow, which is quite hidden. Near the yellow one, there is another bolt which hold that metal plate. It's also a good idea to remove that bolt, so it's easier to reach the 3º bolt.

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After removing the bolts, pull the thermostat housing, and you should see the thermostat inside. It might be stuck, take it out it with a pliers. Note the position of the thermostat, that "nipple" should be at that position. Also, the sealant has a small "part" which fits a recession in the housing, so there is no way to install it in a wrong position.

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In the following picture, its possible to see that little part of the sealant which must fit the recession of the thermostat housing.
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Then, just put the new thermostat in place, in the right position, assemble everything together in the reverse order and fill the radiator with anti-freeze. Let engine run and look for leeks. In the next days, you should look the level of the anti-freeze, since it may go down a bit as the engine bleeds it self. The F18B2 engine doesn't need to be bled, but if your engine needs manual bleeding, make sure you do it, otherwise you may have overheating issues.

If someone have any question, let me know, I will be happy to help B)
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#90999 7th Gen Tourer Rear Brake Overhaul

Posted by Matt on 09 January 2012 - 09:11 PM

Once the piston is fully in, the dust cover will automatically locate in the rebate on the piston. Once I’d done this I put it back on the IMS pump and pushed the piston out half an inch again, just to confirm the dust boot was correctly seated.

Refit the pad spring to the calliper.

Back to the carrier:
Refit the spring steel retainers to the carrier.
Lubricate the slides with grease (sachet supplied with my replacement slides) and slide in and out a few times to distribute, recalling which bore had the round and flatted-side slide fitted.

Attach the bellows dust cap to the carrier end (look carefully, the boot has an inny and an outy end) push in the slide, finally locating the boot in the recess at the end.

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Offer the calliper to the carrier and fit the retaining bolts (12mm socket) and torque to 22Nm, stopping the slide from rotating with a 17mm spanner on the other side. Check the calliper is free to move in and out along the slides.

Refit the pads and shims smearing the back of the pads and shims with copper grease.

Remove the mounting brackets from the old flexi hose and transfer to the new.

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Attach the new flexi hose (using new washers) to the calliper, observing the orientation, and torque the banjo bolt to 34Nm. I pulled a finger cut from a rubber glove over the free end of the hose. If it gets scraped under the wheel arch on refitting, you really don’t want a hose full of grit! If you’re unsure of the orientation, do this bit back on the car. If you get banjo backwards the mid point hose mounting bracket will be upside down!

Offer the brake assembly to the hub, fitting the two carrier-to-hub bolts (14mm socket) and torque down to 55Nm.

Check the union on the end of the metal brake pipe is free of contamination, then reattach the free end of the flexi hose (15Nm).

Check the disc is free to rotate, proceed to bleed the air from the system. I used my Heath Robinson pressure bleeder (yes, that IS a Lucozade bottle), but do it whichever way works for you.

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With the wheel back on take the car for a cautious test drive, keeping an eye out for weeping fluid from the connections, unexpected peddle feel etc. Fingers crossed that’ll be the end of it!
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#74693 DIY 7th Gen Diesel: Coolant Change

Posted by Matt on 20 September 2011 - 09:12 PM

My car, now seven years old, should have had a coolant change at five years. I've no idea if the previous owner did this, or for that matter if they just filled it with lemonade. As I've just hit 60K miles, and the cold weather is just around the corner I thought it wise to change the coolant.

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Before I started the job, I wanted to know what to do with the old coolant. A fair bit of Googling didn't really give a definitive answer. Most people agree that it shouldn't go into a surface water drain or just be poured into the ground. Ethylene glycol degrades relatively quickly, but (being fairly toxic) until this has happened it poses ecological dangers.

Some sources say providing it's well diluted it's ok to pour it into a sewer (i.e. flush it down the toilet) as the treatment works will to ensure it's dealt with by the time it's discharged into the environment. I disagree. I wouldn't pour half a tin of unwanted gloss paint down the toilet, and I don't intend to do the same with antifreeze!

My local tip has no facilities to deal with miscellaneous chemicals, and so I emailed waste management services at the local council for advice. Their response was, to my surprise, both quick and helpful! All I need do is supply my name, address, nature & quantity of chemical and they'll collect it free of charge when their van next does a round and dispose of it in the most appropriate manner. Sorted.


The next step was to collect together what I'd need for the job. Apparently ready to use 'Pro Honda All season anti-freeze Genuine Coolant type 2' is available in 5 litre bottles for about £18 (part number 08CLAG011810 ?), but nobody I contacted stocked it. To that end I had to settle for seven 1 litre bottles :o . In addition I obtained a new o-ring for the expansion tank bleeder plug (19012671300) and a sealing washer for the engine block drain plug (9410914000 -same as the oil sump washer).

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What follows is more or less verbatim from the owner's manual:

Make sure the engine is cool before releasing any caps, plugs etc so you don't get a scalding surprise.

Switch on the ignition and set the heater's DUAL setting to 'off' and increase the temperature to 'HI'. Switch off the ignition off again.

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Chock the rear wheels and raise the front of the car on axle stands. No need to remove the engine under cover.

Under the bonnet, remove the four dome head nuts (10mm socket) and remove the engine cover. Remove the expansion tank filler cap, and the expansion tank bleeder plug (3/8" square key). Locate the the bleed bolt behind the EGR valve assembly, and crack it open half a turn (12mm socket).

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Under the car locate the white plastic drain plug on the bottom of the radiator.

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With a container at the ready, unscrew the drain plug about two turns, until fluid begins to flow. It should be little more than finger tight. Don't undo it all the way and remove it, or you'll have coolant all over the place!

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Put the kettle on. The fluid drains very slowly, though in an well controlled manner. You'll get over six litres out so make sure your container is big enough.

When the flow has stopped, you can (optionally) turn your attention to the last half litre or so of coolant trapped in the engine block.

Crawl further under the car, armed with a 17mm deep socket, a fine ratchet, an old washing up bowl, safety goggles and a lot of patience. This is really tricky, and something I doubt I'll attempt next time :( .

Lying on your back, look up through the rear of the engine, in the area where the drive shaft, exhaust and turbo all sit. You're after the bolt head sat in a recess in the casting that you can barely see, let alone get a spanner on.

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Crack the drain plug with the deep socket. Balance the washing up bowl on your chest and proceed to undo the plug with your finger tips, taking care not to let it come all the way out. Eventually the point where fluid can escape will be reached. With luck some will find its way into the bowl, the rest will run down your arm and soak into your t-shirt. When all the fluid is gone, refit the plug with a new 14mm plug washer. It's meant to be torqued in to 39Nm, but there's not a cat-in-hells-chance of getting my torque wrench in there without first stripping of a load of other stuff -so I just guessed.

Re-tighten the white plastic radiator drain plug finger tight.

Lower the car.

Start re-filing the system. The first six bottles can be poured in as fast as they'll go.

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Towards the end of bottle six, or the start of bottle seven keep an eye on the bleeder bolt on top of the engine. When fluid starts to escape from here, stop pouring and nip up the bolt (to 9.8Nm).

If you've added less than 6.3 litres (partial change) or 6.8 litres (total change) yet the expansion tank seems full at this stage you probably have a gob of air in the system somewhere. Keep the remaining fluid handy, the air will work itself out after a few of warm up / cool down cycles and will need topping up.

Fit a new o-ring to the plastic expansion tank bleed plug and refit to 2.0Nm (little more than finger tight).

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Loosely fit the metal expansion tank cap and start the engine.

The book says to let the engine warm up until the radiator fan has run at least twice (air-con off) to allow any air pockets to be purged. On mine, the temperature gauge rose to its normal running position after about 10 minutes or so, but even after three quarters of an hour of idling the fan still hadn't come on!

Don't forget to fully fit the expansion tank cap when you've finished.

Re-fit the engine cover.

Run the car for a couple of days, watching the fluid level after each journey, and keeping an eye out for leaks. You may get a small level drop as any remaining air in the system works its way out.

That should be it for three years or 37500 miles.


Postscript: Once I'd packed everything away and started writing this post, I realised the white plastic radiator drain plug has the same o-ring as the expansion tank plug (19012671300). If I'd known I'd have ordered two and replaced the radiator one too.

  • F6HAD, Jon2.2, Dave04 and 4 others like this

#40073 7th gen facelift flat wiper retrofit

Posted by crespo on 12 March 2011 - 01:53 PM

Very easy mod to do and takes about 5 minutes.

Tools needed,

Small Philips screwdriver.

New Facelift flat wiper blades. £25 a pair from Honda.

Most of you will already know that the passenger side wiper arm is already compatible with the newer flat wiper blade found on the facelift 7th gen Accord but the drivers side has a block on the wiper that holds the old style wiper blade steady at high speed which gets in the way of the new style flat blade.
This mod will save you buying a drivers side wiper arm which costs £60 + VAT from Honda.

All you need to do is lift the arm and look underneath the plastic block and you will see a small Philips screw holding it to the wiper, Just unscrew this and the block comes off, Then your good to go.

This picture shows the plastic block that you need to remove. (under my finger)
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A picture of it removed.
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Which leaves you with this.
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That is it, Job done.

Now just install your wipers you got from Honda and stand back and admire your handy work.

From this.
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To this.
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I have tested this mod at motorway speeds and i get no lift or chatter from the wipers and they work perfectly.
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#243393 Who are you really?

Posted by Jan Accord on 04 May 2017 - 10:55 PM

I'm Jan and i come from Portoroz in Slovenija.
I'm 24 years old, and i have a beatiful girlfriend now for 5 years, with which i hope i will be the rest of my life.
At this moment i'm building an apartment for us :-)
I'm working at Titus+ in Dekani as head of production department from 2013 ( this is my first employment ) .
I spend my time mostly with motorcycles, cars and RC cars.
I'm also an assistant in production of racing exhaust systems for 2 stroke engines ( ROOST ) .
My passion from when i was young are motorcycle engines... RPM's are a drug for me ;-)
I listen rock music...Mostly ACDC and Metallica...Here and there also Rammstein.
Tv is not my forte because I think it is a waste of time sitting there.
In the future ( next few years ) i'm planning to go back to school for mechanical engineering.
  • Stevearcade, jayok, freddofrog and 4 others like this

#243176 Who are you really?

Posted by IloveJapan on 03 May 2017 - 08:22 AM

About me:
1. I'm 42, married with a beautiful Japanese wife, 2 sons (twins) 12y, and living in a house near Paris.
2. I'm system engineer, working mostly in car industry, currently at Chassis Brakes Internationnal. I've worked in UK once, for Jaguar Land Rover.
3. I've too much time-consuming & expensive hobbies: Cars (old & new), RC cars, MTB (mostly mechanics), computers (mostly tunning...), DIY....
4. I like to listening music, especially Hard rock and new wave from 80's and 90's, but I'm open to all style of music
5. I'm speaking and laugh too louder...

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#243152 Who are you really?

Posted by Andyjdmteg on 02 May 2017 - 11:05 PM

Nice to have some insight on fellow members

I'm 37,married with two kids a boy of 4 and a girl (sort of) of 15.
Spent the majority of my working life in IT with a couple of years stint with virgin media thrown in. Currently working for Fujitsu as a technical support specialist in the retail and hospitality sector.
Like Steve am musically minded and have played guitar from an early age and dabbled with production, just dancy stuff. A very eclectic taste I'll listen to any genre and have favourites ranging from pink flloyd, Hendrix, chilli peppers, massive attack all the way up to old school gangster rap, drum and bass and artists like Ben Howard.
I'm an avid carp/catfish angler, love cars, gaming and media but quite fussy when it comes to TV and films. Currently watching better call Saul, the expanse and old anime.
Unfortunately I spend the majority of my time working lately, should really calm it down and spend more time with the family etc. But needs must, I let my accord go quite some time ago and never did find a replacement toy - due to unforeseen circumstances it's now back in my possession. Can't say I'm disappointed

Sorry that might be a bit more than 5 - I should really read through the rules and post when I haven't been awake for 18 hours
  • Stevearcade, jayok, freddofrog and 4 others like this

#243129 Who are you really?

Posted by Jon_G on 02 May 2017 - 06:23 PM


I'm a devoted drinker of beer and eater of pies

Practically-retired after working 30 odd years for the government, now self-employed and doing diminishing amounts of engineering/scientific consultancy work

Have spent the last 4 years (very) slowly renovating an old stone farmhouse

I'm a fan of original punk rock and see covers bands 2 or 3 times a month

We have a herd of pet goats that my wife and I often take for walks. The largest one used to come to a nearby pub with us (on a lead) but the pub closed a while back.
  • Stevearcade, jayok, freddofrog and 4 others like this

#196385 DIY - Replace bad/cracked manifold on 2.2 i-ctdi Accord 2007

Posted by SirHansen on 13 September 2014 - 12:03 PM



In this DIY, I will explain how I did the removal and installation of the new exhaust manifold.

I apologize in advance if there are any error in my writing, I am from Norway, and this is my first post so please bare with me  :D


Honda has an 7 year/200000 km service on this error, but mine was 3 months to old, so I did not get this one covered.


Here in Norway, just the exhaust manifold cost 5 500 NOK, about 550 £, and then the work cost comes on top with about 1000 nok/100£ per hour, my *** hurts!  :unsure:  :wacko:


It all started with that I smelled exhaust fumes inside my car wen I was idling when the car stood still.

I removed the heat shield over the manifold and this was totaly black underneath because of the sot, pictures below.




What you need.


1. Socket wrench set

2. Allen key set

3. Plastic gloves, I used this with one plastig strip to "blind" the hoses i took of. I did not have a hose clamp  :P 

4. I used 2 Car stands, so I could access the car from beneath.

5.One good rust lubrication! I bought one really good at my local Würth dealer. Highly recommended on those rusty bolts!

6. I bought my manifoild kit from www.balmerlawngroup.co.uk, Superb kit! 




7. I used 7 hours on this job, we had some problems with some of the exhaust bolt




Start of work!


1. Remove the engine cover, it is 4, 10 mm screws. 








2. Remove  the vacum hoose, the coolant hose, breather hose and oil hose


I just used the plastic gloves and a plastic strip to blind the coolant and oil hose.




The breather hose is number 9, just loos it from the cylinder head cover




The coolant hose beneath, as you can see on the first picture. There will come out some coolant here, so try to blind this hose as fast as you can if you dont have hoose clamps. All this coolant is coming from the inside heatexchanger. The small hose is the oil hose, remove the clamp on this one also. If you manage take of the air hoose clamp to the turbo and pry the hose off.


3. Remove the heat shield over the manifold


The heat shield is attached with 3 screws (nuber 4 on the drawing), 14 mm. The new manifold has only 2

You may have to fiddle some to get the shield out from its place, but keep calm and it will come out.




This is how mine looked beneath, it is clearly a exhaust leakage!






4. Under the car, remove the flex part on the exhaust,


The flex is number 8 in the picture, 

The bolts and nuts are 14 mm

Remove the bracket that is holding the flex part also










5. Remove the 2 air hoses from the turbo if you did not do if from above


6. Remove the coolant and oil pipe lines that oes in/out from the turbo, and goes into the engine block.


You have to remove the lines completely, I managed to losen it from the turbo, and on the returline og the oil. The coolant from the tom of the engine I managed to loosen from the top of the engine. The last pipe is at the left og the engine bay, this one is easier to remove from the bottom of the enginge


The line you have to loosen is nr 1 and 13.


Just take your time.




7. Remove the Converter that goes in tho the turbo


On this one I used a lot of rust lubricant, do not stress on this if it is stuck or you will brake the nuts form and they you are in s**** up to your ears





8. Remove the Turbocharger


On this you have to be gentel so you don't brake the vacuum clock on top of the turbo, and make sure the pipes for the coolant and oil to the turbo is taken care of.

Used a lot of rust lubicant on these 3 bolt also, this lubricant is fantastic!

When the nuts are off, remove the supporting bracket, remove turbocharger away brom the exhaust maifold, and down and out from the engine bay.


9. Remove the exhaust manifold


Use the rust lubricant on this also! There are 8 nuts on the manifold.




This is how mine looked after the removal, you can clearly see that the welding is cracked! This is not good, exhaust fuems inside the car is dangerous! I think Honda should have exstended the waranty of this failure to 10 years. This manifold has been usen on the Diesel engine sine they came in 2003/2004














9. Installing the new exhaust manifold 


Just do it revere order, just make sure that you remeber to put on new gaskets if you have bought the complete set/kit


When you are attaching the turbo, there is a trick to attache the pipe lines before you tighten the turbo down on the manifold.


The rest is easy peacy  :P


Make sure that everything is connected back again, the coolant hoses, oil hooses, vacum and breather hooses, before start up!


I had to to off my coolant before start up, i managed to spill some when I removed the coolant hose  :lol:


When you start, just let it run for 10-20 secunds on the 3-5 first start, tis is to make the oil and coolant come trough the system.


A little tips in the end, if you have no warm air inside the car from the aircon when the car engine is warm, you have to top off your coolant level, and maybe get the air out.



I bought a complete set, but you can just buy the manifold also. If you have welding equipment you can weld the old one also


I have alot of pictures but I was not allowed to add more  :huh:


Hope this helps!


Best regards from Norway  :D








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#243159 Who are you really?

Posted by freddofrog on 03 May 2017 - 02:18 AM

(ran out of likes above, again)


I think these sum me up


1. I'm a secret Lemonade drinker
2. I'm a one way motorway
3. I'm an alien, a legal alien
4. I'm a lumberjack and i'm okay
5. I'm a one man band
other than that I'm xx years old, got 3 sons in their 20's, worked in several engineering professions (mainly electronics, software, RF comms), worked on projects in many countries, but if I'd got the job as trainee accountant at 16 years old, life might have been boring but I'd be richer LOL

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#243132 Who are you really?

Posted by Channel Hopper on 02 May 2017 - 07:26 PM

One daughter who I'm on the school runs since the other half has a contract in the city, any babysitting would wipe out any funds into the house.

Hoarder of not so new motorcycles, in the main Hondas but with the odd British lump thrown in, mainly Villiers 150 engines (and by odd, ever heard of a Grey Wolf ?)


Huge coffee drinker but I promise I'm cutting down, as with the TV dinners, but the local supermarket discounts the latter by up to 90% each night which makes it very difficult.

Admin on another site dealing with satellite TV, specialising in steerable larger dishes (up to around 7.5m), mainly for foreign TV capture, uplinking and earlier some of the weather satellites. I can repair TVs, DVDs and most electronic stuff, but the latest circuitry involving components no bigger than 0.5mm shows up my eyesight.

Oh and I'm a magpie, often seen delving into skips, where I found both my favourite all singing DVD player (Yelo) and the current 40" TV in the living room.

I like anything with a decent tune, pop, classical, heavy rock or the man whistling in the street, but I can't stomach opera.
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#244592 Honda VIN numbers

Posted by freddofrog on 22 May 2017 - 04:14 AM

Since the 90's (IIRC) all VIN numbers have 17 characters.


The first 3 are basically the manufacturer and country of origin

So 7th and 8th gen EU Accords, built in Japan, begin with JHM


The next 3 are the vehicle model, see this thread --> http://typeaccord.co...3cw1cw2cw3-etc/


The next 2 are the trim level


The 9th is usually a zero 


The 10th is the year the car was assembled


The 11th is the factory


The last 6 are the serial number, and they usually begin with 20 or 21


Examples (I've used a serial number 201111 on all)


JHMCL76803C201111 = 2003 CL7 Exec = 2.0 Saloon trim code 68

JHMCL76404C201111 = 2004 CL7 Sport = 2.0 Saloon trim code 64

JHMCN15505C201111 = 2005 CN1 Exec = 2.2 Saloon trim code 55

JHMCN15204C201111 = 2004 CN1 Sport = 2.2 Saloon trim code 52

JHMCM18703C201111 = 2003 CM1 Exec = 2.0 Tourer trim code 87
JHMCN27405C201111 = 2005 CN2 Sport = 2.2 Tourer trim code 74
JHMCM27803C201111 = 2003 CM2 Exec = 2.4 Tourer trim code 78
Note that if you ever need to submit a VIN and are concerned about that, submit the VIN but with the last 4 digits as a random number. This works because it's only the first 11 characters that are relevant to your car.
On a really geeky point, entering a VIN for a 2.2 into this website --> http://www.lingshond...s-diagrams.html  always gives at least two KE options (KE = UK)
e.g. JHMCN27405C201111
gives two options , one option has VSA, the other option does not have VSA.  
This relates to this thread --> http://typeaccord.co...e-question-lol/


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#243421 Who are you really?

Posted by ToothlessDrunk on 05 May 2017 - 07:13 AM

I don't drive a Honda now.
I live in a house
I engineer.. like it seems many here do.
I watch too many documentaries.
I am going big game fishing in the Pacific next week.
I visit the dentist every 3 months and am teetotal.
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#242960 Haynes US Accord workshop manuals.

Posted by freddofrog on 30 April 2017 - 11:27 AM

Is there any possibility that someone would be so kind to upload this to Dropbox via a zip or iso somehow for myself only? I have quite a bit of work to do on my CL7 Accord and would highly appreciate a manual of some sort to help me along the way.




I've just uploaded the 138MB zipped "esm7gen" directory (english only) to a Dropbox account ---->   https://www.dropbox....sm7gen.zip?dl=0


Available to anyone ;)



late edit:


I thought I better provide an image of "esm7gen" Properties when unzipped



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#242264 Metallic clatter

Posted by Miah on 20 April 2017 - 10:38 AM

Well, as it turned out, it isn't the oil pump chain, yet, at least. I dug out my mechanics stethoscope and everywhere on the engine and ancillaries sounded fine, except the alternator.


Figured it must be some kind of odd bearing failure, so phoned up a local alternator shop and headed over there. Took it in, and five minutes later the guy comes back and tells me, bearings are fine, it's your pulley.


Turns out these alternators have some kind of fancy clutched pulley, and after well over an hour of them wrestling with this alternator and a dead one they had kicking about (but which had a good pulley) away I went 84 quid lighter but with a quiet alternator.


Can see the bearing on the back of the alternator pulley itself is well on its way to destruction, most of the ball bearing cage was completely missing.


Fitted back on the car and no more noise, so happy days.


Quite a mission getting the old alternator out though on the diesel with aircon. Ended up dismantling most of the front end, but if everything was being less stubborn I reckon you could do it with just the left hand fan out.

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