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jerking

marshall23

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aberystwyth
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honda accord
HI all just a quick query, i've a 2.2 ctdi 2007 56 plate and at low revs i.e pulling off i.m getting alot of jerking and noticing that i;m not getting the mpg i used to get?? is there a fuel filter to be cleaned changed?? thanks all.
 
Yep, get the fuel filter changed. Take a look at air filer as well, might be clogged.
dan
 
Gary, you have a facelift car which takes the new cartridge type Denso filter.

Have a good look at the forum, there's lots of current discussion about this very subject.
 
Gary mate read my post on this it will give you some good advice.
By the way it seems to be the facelift accord that suffers this most.

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/index.php?/topic/384-new-fuel-filter-tomorro/
 
Also Gary what fuel are you using i would recommend shell VPD and most of the members here would agree.
 
Yep I get this problem on my facelift Gary and thus far I have done full service, with genuine air, oil and fuel filter, new EGR valve and replaced MAF.... Still there. I want to try and clean out the intake manifold which the EGR bolts to next as the EGR on the facelift is different to the pre-facelift. Ours is operated by a vacum and the pre-facelift is electronic, so wondering if ours is opening too much and letting too much junk through and eventually clogging up!
 
Hi Dave, I have read that. Strange that it mainly affects the facelift ones.

Well if anyone makes any progress, then please let me know :huh: and I will keep trying!
 
Guys have you read my post above?
I had a new FF fitted last week and the jerking is not half as bad.
Question is the jerking worse when the car is started from cold mine is.When the car is been running for about 10 min its hardly there at all.
 
Mine is generally there hot and cold Brett and the Genuine FF didnt seem to make a difference :eek:

It is becomming a real pain now. I just hope that I can make some progress on it pretty soon as when I have people in the car it seems as I incompitent at driving as it kangaroos down the road!
 
Nick, it's probably worth booking it in with HH for some proper diagnostics now..
 
Your right Fahad. Was hoping that maybe we could look at it at the HH meet if we have time as I should have some money by then. Bit skint at the moment with holidays and stag do's and weddings and a house to renovate. Why do people have to get married... Its so inconvenient and expensive :lol:

Pm'd yesterday CJ but he is prob a bit busy at the mo as I havent heard back yet. I think you said that he has some diagnostics doesnt he. If there isnt time at the HH meet then I will have to look at booking it in at a later date.

Cheers,
Nick
 
Nick, it's probably worth booking it in with HH for some proper s diagnosticnow..
Nick has your car been remapped if so would that show up on the diagnostic from Honda.
 
Just been on the civic site and spotted Rayzor there :) this may help with our problem.

http://www.civinfo.com/forum/honda-accord/43543-diesel-low-revs-problem.html
 
The remap will not show on any standard Honda Diagnostics but it's best to return it to stock if you want them to have a good look at it. On Nick's car it was jerking before the remap so whatever it is will show up whether its remapped or not..
 
Yeah, Fahad is right, it was there pre remap, it just shows up a little more now beacuse of the extra power. At the moment, I am trying to work out if its worse when its cold, as I think it is. Going to order some of that BG244 and see if that helps!

Here is crossing fingers.
 
Just been on the civic site and spotted Rayzor there :D this may help with our problem.http://www.civinfo.com/forum/honda-accord/43543-diesel-low-revs-problem.html

Cheers for the link Brett. i think I have already cleaned the MAP sensor. Next few things after the BG244 has turned up and MAF cleaning spray is, Check and clean inlet chamber and swirl chamber, check all vacum pipes, see if i can check the crank sensor!

Oh the joys, well and the diagnostics when I can afford it!
 
Cheers for the link Brett. i think I have already cleaned the MAP sensor. Next few things after the BG244 has turned up and MAF cleaning spray is, Check and clean inlet chamber and swirl chamber, check all vacum pipes, see if i can check the crank sensor!

Oh the joys, well and the diagnostics when I can afford it!
Its very odd mine was doing the same as yours as i said above.
It was certainly better after the FF change.But about 2 days ago i put some millers in and the jerking is completely gone.Whether this is an intermittent fault who noes but i hope the fuel additive works for you nick.
 
Its very odd mine was doing the same as yours as i said above.It was certainly better after the FF change.But about 2 days ago i put some millers in and the jerking is completely gone.Whether this is an intermittent fault who noes but i hope the fuel additive works for you nick.
Me too Brett. i have ordered the stuff now BG244 and MAF cleaner (to do it again) will be putting in the addative next week, so fingers crossed!
 
I dont know if the BG244 will clear the problem one thing for sure is it can hurt. Ive done mine and its super smooth again

Fingers crossed for you nesh
 
Yes mate, covered here:

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/1127-slight-missing-or-hesitation-excessive-smoking-etc/

It's the same part I told you to change when we last spoke several weeks back. Also the original poster, although hasn't updated this thread had the problem resolved by changing the same part.
 
Changed mine, still does it :lol:

Since the new manifold mine does seem to smoke a little less, but I would still say that it is excessive. Looks like the next step is back to standard and then a trip to HH in the new year.

This damn jerking, smoking and poor mpg is killing me now :lol:
 
Well guys iv just changed the solenoid valve filter to see if this helps if not i will change the valve its self.
I will keep you posted.
 
As some of you know, I replaced the solenoid and filter, but still had two slight judders when warming up. Since then I have cleaned the MAF, MAP and IMRC valve, which resolved the juddering and the car drove like a dream.

Since I first cleaned the MAF and MAP after a little while the judder came back, I've re done the cleaning of the MAF with little effect and then the MAP, which seemed to resolve the issue again for a little while, I suspect some of the reprieve was due to resetting the ECU.

I have noticed that the judder, although not bad seems to come hot or cold, but is more prevalent when the air is damp.

Since cleaning the MAF and MAP and getting the car to run like a dream I knew that it was because of one of them, although I had cleaned them all at once so couldn't isolate it. However more recently I have had a niggling suspicion that the MAP sensor is at fault. I have now done some further reading and done some tests and now suspect the MAP sensor.

From what I have read the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor is there to adjust for the barometric pressure conditions etc, it seems that depending on where the sensor is placed has an effect on it's reliability. For example the MAP sensor on the Facelift is mounted directly onto the IMRC valve, which makes it more susceptible to heat damage than a sensor placed on a bracket and connected via a vacuum hose

See this link which I found good in explaining things a little more
http://www.youfixcars.com/map-sensor.html

Also found this site good for a general view on most sensors on a modern engine
http://www.aa1car.com/library/1999/cm69910.htm

Today I decided to have a day off work, so thought I would do a couple of simple tests

Firstly I unplugged the MAF sensor and started the engine, it stalled straight away, so a good sign that the MAF was working

Secondly I unplugged the MAP sensor directly, the car started, Ok it also put it in safe mode i.e limiting the engine to 2K, took the car out for a drive, to warm up etc. Not one single judder, once warmed up went back home and waited for about half an hour. The reason I did this is one of the symptoms that I have been experiencing is the car quite often runs like a dream first thing for the whole journey, but as soon as you have switched off and then need to go somewhere else, the judder is there, especially in first gear.
Went out in the car again and still no judder so looking promising, came back and left the car a while longer and then reconnected the MAP sensor, this time started the car and switched off approximately 5 times, but the mil light stayed on, but later cleared itself whilst driving. The car once again did the judders, not particularly violent judders like you get with the IMRC solenoid issue.

Now for the bad news, so far I have only found one place that sells the original Bosch MAP sensor 0 281 002 680, other than the obvious of the dealer or Lings at £200+. The place I have found is selling new original Bosch at around £65, unfortunately however Bosch have told them there are none available until March. I have also spoken to the company about a possible discount, which they are willing to do and I am awaiting further details. I have run it by Fahad and when I get some details from the dealer I will be putting them up on the dealers section. They also do an after market MAP sensor made by Facet for around £45. Incidentally they sell the original Bosch MAF Sensor currently for less than £100.

I would prefer to get the Bosch, but it is whether I can wait until March, so not sure whether to give the Facet a go.
 
Carl, depends how bad your problem is. Personally I would fit an original part - even a used one maybe.
 
Carl, depends how bad your problem is. Personally I would fit an original part - even a used one maybe.

I totally agree and even if I went for the Facet, I would probably change it as soon as the Bosch was available, I considered a second hand part, but I suspect that it could be a part that generally needs replacing after a certain time frame, just like MAF sensors so don't know whether either would suit.

I originally enquired with the company whether they sold the MAP sensor, when they showed me the after market one. I then told them that I only wanted the Bosch one as Honda tend to be a little fussy about after market parts.
 
I'm surprised you're experiencing so many part failures Carl, your car is quite low mileage?
 
I'm surprised you're experiencing so many part failures Carl, your car is quite low mileage?

You and me both!

Although technically it is just the Clutch and IMRC Solenoid so far !

Although Clutch was under warranty at 22k
The oil has been overfilled twice by a no-longer existent Honda dealer
Then the IMRC Solenoid which was only highlighted when I got it re-mapped by your good self.

My theory on this is that the IMRC solenoid issue has been there for sometime, explaining why the car sometimes felt like it couldn't be bothered and other times raring to go.(the re-map just brought it to the forefront) I think that in some way the IMRC solenoid issue has possibly enhanced the demise of the MAP sensor, if it is even the MAP sensor.

Equally if I know there is something wrong, then it has to be fixed, but once again no MIL light (until I unplugged the MAF and MAP !) so not sure whether a code will come up yet.

Currently waiting for the MS509 I ordered from Elite on Tuesday, then maybe I can see if anything pops up.

Both dealers near me have lost the Honda dealership and I haven't as yet got time until Feb to get down to Holdcroft.

One other thing is now and again I can smell exhaust fumes in the car when first starting, checked the manifold no sign, seems more like the current discussion on the Hot gas heater. B)

Got the car on 11k what does it say about my driving :rolleyes: although it was cheaper than another same year with higher mileage, hmm what does that say!
 
If you need to chase up the order from Elite just drop them an email at info@eliteremaps.com

Well let's see what happens after you replace the MAP sensor. One thing is for sure, your knowledge of the ICTDI inter-workings is probably far greater than some so called Honda techies up and down the dealership land.
 
If you need to chase up the order from Elite just drop them an email at info@eliteremaps.com

Well let's see what happens after you replace the MAP sensor. One thing is for sure, your knowledge of the ICTDI inter-workings is probably far greater than some so called Honda techies up and down the dealership land.

Cheers for the info on Elite,
I've had the receipt from Paypal but that is it, maybe they are out of stock. I'm getting it delivered to the office so will check to see if a card was left today (the only day I haven't been in!) otherwise I 'll chase them up to find out what is happening.

I'm looking for any other tests but looks like I'd have to invest in a voltage meter!
 
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