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H

hazley

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Location
n.ireland
Car
honda accord
Hi all again,Sorry i never got back to people on the newbie form as i have been head melted to the max with 2 fault codes.
Got a mate who put it on computer and came up with 2 fault codes but he thinks one code was old as it did not come up the secound time.
This handheld job said 1 and 3 injector is not at a good workin %,So iam getting the injectors took out 2morrow to be cleaned professionally.
Thing is 2day i got bluetooth obd in the post to test myself,Got 2 codes now :(
Codes our
P1057
P1236
Car cut out down the motor way and went in the limp model
Got alot of black smoke now out the back end
Now i cant really say if this motor has ever had a remap
Car is shaking at low revs
Hope someone can help me at this hard time or iam not going to have any hair left ;)
Sorry if a post has been posted before on this topic but i just see alot of mixed comments
Car has been running on injector cleaner from i got it
And at one point it took around 5 mins to start
Cheers
 
My usual Honda specific references didn't recognise these, but I did find these (but they aren't necessarily Honda specific, so take the 2nd one with a pinch of salt)...

http://www.micro-tronik.com/faultcodes/obdiifaultcode_p1057.html - fuel pressure pressure control valve open circuit
http://www.micro-tronik.com/faultcodes/obdiifaultcode_p1236.html - turbo boost pressure too high

I have had a P1057 on my car, when I pulled the connector off the fuel pump (the pressure control valve is built in with the pump), so I am sure of that code. Pull the electrical conector off the fuel pump (it takes a bit of thought and care - you can just get to it towards the rear righthand corner of the engine acoustic cover), have a look at all exposed connectors for corrosion, water, *******, etc and re-fit. If you have a mutimeter, then check the valve solenoid resistance - it should be less than 5 ohms (mine was 3 point something when I checked) and check the visible wiring for damage, and that the plug on the end of the wiring is on properly. If you don't have a multimeter then find someone who has! This would make the engine smoke, as the fuel pressure will be too high if this valve is not working - but I'm surprised that it would even start. The fuel rail sensor should then be shutting off the engine and raising a P0088 error code.

I can't see how this could possibly be related to the other fault code... unless someone has been careless and pulled off or damaged wiring and/or hoses around the engine. If P1236 is turbo boost too high, then check all hoses to the turbo and also clean the MAP sensor. But I have no experience with this problem.

When you first had the codes read, were they cleared off?

EDIT - sorry about the sweariness. It wasn't really worth censoring!!!
 
...I've just had a look around on this (and the Civinfo) website, and it looks like my code explanations are right.

You haven't had some sort of 'tuning box' fitted have you?

What recent work have you had done?

What model do you have / how many miles / what service history? Also, someone is bound to be along soon asking about the fuel filter, so you might as well tell us when that was last replaced.
 
Jon_G said:
...I've just had a look around on this (and the Civinfo) website, and it looks like my code explanations are right.

You haven't had some sort of 'tuning box' fitted have you?

What recent work have you had done?

What model do you have / how many miles / what service history? Also, someone is bound to be along soon asking about the fuel filter, so you might as well tell us when that was last replaced.
Click to expand...

Only got the car just over 3 weeks ago,Think i had a blind eye for it,Its a 2004 with 117000 on the clock.can not tell you anything on the service history or fuel filter as there was on log.
 
Here you go Jason have a look hear ;)

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/798-diy-and-review-wireless-reverse-camera/

If you type reversing camera in the goggle custom search top right there will be lots of threads on this.
 
brett said:
Here you go Jason have a look hear ;)

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/798-diy-and-review-wireless-reverse-camera/

If you type reversing camera in the goggle custom search top right there will be lots of threads on this.
Click to expand...
For someone else lad :rolleyes:
 
Jon_G said:
Despite my original doubts, I am pretty sure that I'd answered this already. But I'd really like to know what your source is.
Click to expand...
Yeah thanks jon g,Iam thinking has this car had a remap that has went wrong or has the last owner been running the red derv on her.The first reading was pointing to 1 and 3 injectors,So thats my first starting point.Will keep you posted on the work carried out,Cant get my engineer on till next monday.so its one step at a time on till then.Your posts have been noted cheers :)
 
I would start by putting a new fuel filter on, then check the wiring to all the injectors and check all around the engine for the condition of any vacuum or boost hoses
 
Hmmm. I would start with the easy things...
Change the fuel filter.. make sure it is a genuine filter
Change the air filter

Reset the codes after this has been done and report back afterwards :)

With the boost issue code, im dubious to say it was a true overboost... maybe this is a fueling issue and has gone in to limp mode.

Another possability is the EGR valve being stuck?
 
Hi Darren - are you still getting the P1057 DTC? This is definitely an electrical fault; if you have got access to a multimeter it's a very easy job to measure the fuel pump pressure control valve solenoid resistance (and also to check the continuity of the wiring back to the ECU).
 
Hi all again,Got my car back at long last.No more old codes and no more black smoke,Do now have the p2004 code which is a pain
 
Hi What's actually been done to it since your last post?

P2004 = IMRC problem... http://www.micro-tronik.com/faultcodes/obdiifaultcode_p2004.html
 
Jon_G said:
Hi What's actually been done to it since your last post?

P2004 = IMRC problem... http://www.micro-tronik.com/faultcodes/obdiifaultcode_p2004.html
Click to expand...


To cut the story short,Injectors got took out.
Got tested and work 100%
Got put back in but the little copper washer ended up in the engine,Mechanics fault.
Head of engine off to get it.
Got it.
Head resealed put back on
Best bit is the car is like a new car,No black smoke and goes like f**k.
Only the one code now which is the p2004 you say,Any info on what way to sort this code?
Now sayin this seems a little funny to stop the smoke and get more power but iam tellin you all the truth.
The mechanic may off free'd something in the bay but who knows:)
 
Ouch - sounds like an expensive repair!

If you reset the P2004 DTC, does it come back straightaway? If it's running as well as you say, then it can't be too serious! Maybe the IMRC needs a good clean, but I've never had to do this - do use the search box for the site to find advice on this.
 
Jon_G said:
Ouch - sounds like an expensive repair!

If you reset the P2004 DTC, does it come back straightaway? If it's running as well as you say, then it can't be too serious! Maybe the IMRC needs a good clean, but I've never had to do this - do use the search box for the site to find advice on this.
Click to expand...

The repair did not cost me a thing as it was his fault :) Yes have reset it with my obm scanner,Comes back on secs after.No changes in sound or anything,IMRC will be getting a clean when i get free time.
 
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