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TypeAccord: Slight Missing or Hesitation, Excessive Smoking etc - TypeAccord

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Slight Missing or Hesitation, Excessive Smoking etc

#1 User is offline   waj1974 

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Posted 04 October 2010 - 06:18 PM

Hi guys,

Was driving today and the engine light came on, checked it with a code reader and it come up with p2004 dtc.
Does anyone know what it means and how to fix it?
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#2 User is offline   J4JAV 

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Posted 04 October 2010 - 06:24 PM

INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNER CONTROL STUCK OPEN

that's the problem....
Posted Image

Pics of My Car...
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#3 User is offline   waj1974 

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Posted 04 October 2010 - 06:40 PM

Cheers jav does that mean that its the swirl flap that's stuck and I need to open and clean it or is it a sensor problem?
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#4 User is offline   joooe 

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Posted 04 October 2010 - 08:17 PM

Had exactly the same problem for a few months.
I did managed to clean the flap and the intake, but the error didn't go away. Checked all the hoses of the frequency solenoid valve (part nr 9 in the picture below), disconnected them all, cleaned all the electrical connections. Nothing. The error was still there.


http://www.hondaoriginalparts.com/hpl/images_car/17SEA01/imge/E__3200.jpg


The car was running just fined, so I didn't bother for a while. When I cleaned the error the light always came on when the car was at normal operating temperature.
I finally ended up buying a new frequency solenoid valve, but that didn't worked either. Either way I left the new valve in the car

Then, one day the light went off by itself.
Coincidence or not I had changed the fuel brand two days earlier.
Still didn't know what happened. There's now more than 5 months and the light never came back. http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/public/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif

If possible clean the intake and see if the flap moves freely. Check the solenoid valve, clean it and check the vacuum hoses. I remember I even cleaned the EGR.

Good luck.

This post has been edited by joooe: 04 October 2010 - 08:18 PM

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Accord 2.2. i-CTDi
Powered by Premier Tuning - Stage 2 EGR-OFF
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#5 User is offline   beefy_634 

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Posted 04 October 2010 - 09:15 PM

intermittant vac leak in the imrc frquency solenoid valve. the manufacturing process was changed to rectify the problem, as it is intermitant the fault may clear and not return for some time. replacing the valve should cure the fault.
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#6 User is offline   waj1974 

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Posted 04 October 2010 - 09:39 PM

Adam and nuno thanks for your advice and yes the light is intermittant. Could that also cause hesitancy if it has a vac leak?i will clean the swirl flap also
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#7 User is offline   waj1974 

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Posted 05 October 2010 - 03:56 PM

Ok so I cleaned out the swirl flap and the light went out but aftera bit of driving came back on and it was hesitating too so I unplugged the sensor clip light was still on but no hesitation car was smooth so I know now its definitely faulty
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#8 User is offline   F6HAD 

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Posted 05 October 2010 - 04:05 PM

Waj can you take some snaps of these parts that you are cleaning etc - this will make an interesting DIY..
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#9 User is offline   waj1974 

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Posted 05 October 2010 - 05:11 PM

Fahad the cleaning of the throttle body and imrc has already been covered I think by danger mouse or gathor with photos topic was egr cleaning but my problem was the frequency solenoid valve maybe other people with hesitation problems should get that checked out too
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#10 User is offline   CJM 

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Posted 05 October 2010 - 09:34 PM

View Postwaj1974, on 05 October 2010 - 03:56 PM, said:

Ok so I cleaned out the swirl flap and the light went out but aftera bit of driving came back on and it was hesitating too so I unplugged the sensor clip light was still on but no hesitation car was smooth so I know now its definitely faulty



Waj,


Just to clarify you un-plugged the sensor clip from the Frequency solenoid valve and the hesitation went away. How was the car from a cold start.

Adam mentioned that there was an intermittent vac leak fault with the frequency solenoid valve and a vacuum leak I suspect will cause the problems suffered by a few people, especially with face-lifts described as jerking.

You had a friend with this problem and were looking at the EGR, have you tried disconnecting the sensor clip on your mates car yet ? This could be the very exciting news that many people have been waiting for !! Fingers crossed :lol:
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#11 User is offline   waj1974 

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Posted 05 October 2010 - 11:32 PM

yes mate, i tried both from cold and hot and the car runs way better and smoother with the sensor on the frequency valve unclipped. I tried my friends car also but he still has the hesitation.

I think i will email nick aka nesh cuz he was having the jerking problem maybe he has the same problem, anyway i have ordered a brand new valve from Honda for £116 inc vat. and will be picking it up tomorrow morning so i will keep this thread updated....
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#12 User is offline   F6HAD 

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Posted 05 October 2010 - 11:34 PM

Waj, please do a fitting DIY with pics B)
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#13 User is offline   waj1974 

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Posted 06 October 2010 - 01:07 AM

ok fahad will do bruv... B)
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#14 User is offline   Salim 

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Posted 06 October 2010 - 04:12 AM

^^^ bet you dont B)
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#15 User is offline   F6HAD 

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Posted 06 October 2010 - 09:07 AM

I'll ban him :ph34r:
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#16 User is offline   waj1974 

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Posted 06 October 2010 - 09:45 AM

Sal my brother long time where you been??? Give me a call sometime we can catchup right I'm off to get the valve fingers crossed it works.
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#17 User is offline   NESH 

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Posted 06 October 2010 - 11:34 AM

Following on from the interesting posts above I have a little dilema. (CJ you maybe the man to advise, but anyone feel free) I am having my car plugged in at the HH meet to see if it shows up any faults. Now obviously if I disconnect this part it will throw up a fault code straight away, which will then be picked up at HH and then may make it more difficult to determine the fault... not sure

I will definitely have one fault show up as I bought a replacement MAF and it wasnt connected/i forgot to connect it when started it so this will obviously throw up a fault. However I have two MAF now, neither of which I believe are faulty.

Finally when you disconnect this device and the MIL comes on, will the car not just go into limp home mode??? Because when my car was in that mode (when MAF wasnt connected) it didnt show any symptoms of jerkiness, but then again it didnt have any power and I dont think the turbo spools as the car obviously goes into a safe mode with default settings.

Any thoughts comments appreciated.. Should I try or wait till HH????
Doesnt seem to smoke or jerk too much at the moment between 1.5k-2k but if you have any issues with smoking or jerking then let me know!
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#18 User is offline   F6HAD 

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Posted 06 October 2010 - 12:20 PM

Well, if you try it and it doesn't jerk then fault code or no fault code, you'll know it's this part :ph34r:

If it still exhibits the problem, then you can ignore the fault code coz you know it's not that...

So I'm not sure i understand the problem actually?
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#19 User is offline   CJM 

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Posted 06 October 2010 - 12:37 PM

Well tried this this morning and the car is running fine and that is without cleaning the Swirl or EGR.

Really easy to do, but I'm sure Waj is going to take care of the DIY on this.

I think a few rep points on this as it is sure to help many other members and save many Accords being part exchanged!!

Personally the problem was just showing itself and slowly getting worse and starting to drive me mad, I was going to get it put back to stock and diagnostics.

Question is whether you replace the filter as well as the solenoid ?

So it certainly is one possible candidate for the jerking issues, after replacing fuel filters first though ! It will be interesting how many people find this works for

Thanks to everyone involved
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#20 User is offline   F6HAD 

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Posted 06 October 2010 - 12:45 PM

Excellent!!!

I've also just had confirmation from Waj that his problem is fixed by replacing the part. He will post pics up soon :)

Time to make this a sticky me thinks :ph34r:
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