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Can you replace Bose stereo in SE excutive with aftermarket one and how do you remove stereo?

smorroll

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Nottingham
Car
Honda Accord
I get conflicting advice on whether the existing bose cd/radio on my a 2001 accord se executive can be replaced with an aftermarket stereo or not. some incar hifi shops say no-others say its straight forward. I would like to replace the stereo with a more modern cd/usb/sd card player type stereo with blue tooth connectivity by eg sony/pioneer. i understand that the existing original head unit has an afteramp that feeds the 4 speakers and sub-woofer. is it straight forward to connect the new headunit to the afteramp so that all 5 speakers are used? how does one remove the existing radio?
any help advice much appreciated
Shaun
 
straight forward swap. you will need the appropriate connector to connect the new cd player to the honda wiring loom and I needed a aerial extension cable as the honda one had no slack in it. just google for instructions to get the old unit out, I had to unscrew the dash surround then unscrew the old Boss unit out. But the job takes about 30min- 1 hour depending on experience and if you want to wire a Sub in this is easy too, can give you some pointers if needed.
 
I was under the impression that there wasn't any loom adapters for Accords with the Bose system and that replacing the head unit rendered the subwoofer inoperable without hacking the wiring loom.

When I was reading up about trying to replace mine, I didn't want to go through the hassle of removing half my dash just to get the radio out, so I bought an XCarlink instead - that gives me the USB/sd card for mp3 and there is a Bluetooth option too.

Might be worth a look.
 
It can be done but is a PITA. To be honest if you have the bose system fitted and don't want to wire in a whole new system yourself or pay for someone to do it, then you'd be best off taking Colins advice and buying something like the XcarLink.
 
this is what i mean about conflicting opinions-this is the same "choices" i get from car radio specialist-yes/no/unsure!! Ill try and talk with robert to see if he can give me some more specific instructions/guidance
thanks-keep opinions coming
Shaun
 
straight forward swap. you will need the appropriate connector to connect the new cd player to the honda wiring loom and I needed a aerial extension cable as the honda one had no slack in it. just google for instructions to get the old unit out, I had to unscrew the dash surround then unscrew the old Boss unit out. But the job takes about 30min- 1 hour depending on experience and if you want to wire a Sub in this is easy too, can give you some pointers if needed.

hi robert, thanks for the advice-think we can discuss this more so you can put my mind at rest?. i dont want to take out the dashboard/stereo just to find it cant be done-the more i ask the more confused i get but any help would be appreciated. Shaun
 
The main stopping point for me was the fact that the Bose head unit is not exactly din sized, and there are no facia adaptors for our cars so it won't sit/look like a built in unit
 
Hi Shaun,

You can use the adapter harness available for the Accord to fit a different head unit into a Bose equipped car. The only problem is you lose the use of the amp & sub in the boot. I did this in my Accord hatchback using a Sony head unit a while back - I didn't have any problem with the unit sitting properly, but the sound quality was rubbish without the sub. It was an old head unit though so that may have contributed, however it had never been a problem in my Audi A4 when it was fitted.

It is possible to hard wire the sub into an aftermarket head unit though, you'd just need a wire diagram for the sub/amp loom.
 
Hi Shaun,

You can use the adapter harness available for the Accord to fit a different head unit into a Bose equipped car. The only problem is you lose the use of the amp & sub in the boot. I did this in my Accord hatchback using a Sony head unit a while back - I didn't have any problem with the unit sitting properly, but the sound quality was rubbish without the sub. It was an old head unit though so that may have contributed, however it had never been a problem in my Audi A4 when it was fitted.

It is possible to hard wire the sub into an aftermarket head unit though, you'd just need a wire diagram for the sub/amp loom.


Any idea where i may get a wire diagram of the dubbings in my car from?
 
http://www.fitaudio.com/?View=entry&EntryID=14

I used this guide I think, If your BOSE CD player looks like this its a easy removal, I will find the wiring loom also, what After market CD player are you sticking in?

Also do you want a Sub in the boot also??
 
http://www.car-hifi-radio-adapter.eu/en/car-radio-wire-harnesses/honda/honda-accord-1998-2001-car-stereo-wiring-harness.html
 
http://www.fitaudio.com/?View=entry&EntryID=14

I used this guide I think, If your BOSE CD player looks like this its a easy removal, I will find the wiring loom also, what After market CD player are you sticking in?

Also do you want a Sub in the boot also??

hi and thanks, but can you check the link again as it seems to not go anywhere!!
yes id like to keep all the attributes of the bose amp and woofer as they give a nice sound.. im thinking about maybe fitting something like a Sony MEXBT3900U
http://www.sony.co.u.../specifications
or another main brand stereo (i guess the plug into all these are the same). was thinking about installing a dab stereo but they dont seem that good at the moment. anyway let me rehave that link.
ta shaun
ps just had a look at the fit audio site and followed thru to the honda accord stereo bit. the dash board/climate control are the same, my stereo though is a CD/radio type, not the cassette/radio type show at ftaudio. in the accord owners manual p137 its shown as "C-type" like this
http://www.ahm-ownerlink.com/***ets/OWNERLINK/Model/own_man/2001Accord.pdf
does this make a difference to plugs/removal etc?
 
headunit1.gif

headunit2.gif

Remove all of the screws underneath the console (Red circles)
There is a hidden screw located on the right hand side of the dash. To gain access, first carefully prise out the middle switch of the bank of 3 located under the RH airvent (headlamp load leveller) and remove the screw. There are also several clips securing the cover to the dash along its lower length which require a firm pull to release. With all the screws undone, carefully pull the trim away.
headunit4.gif


This will allow you to access the screws that hold the radio in position. There are two pairs of screws on each side.
headunit5.gif

( I did not remove the clock only the CD player screws)
 
did you get the sub working?


it is a PITA as Si says but possible, you need a small 2 channel amp, mount it on the rear parcel shelf or hidden (needs some air though they get hot) look under the shelf you will see one of the connectors has 2 black and 2 red wires, you need to wire the outputs from the amp straight into the terminal, then bob's your auntie. (depending what head unit you have just use the sub output lead and get a set of long RCA leads plus the switch wire to tell the amp when to turn on and off)

soon as I can lay my hands on an amp small enough to go under the shelf I'll do a DIY on it
 
Hi.

Did anybody manage to get subwoofer working after replacing head unit? Can we simply connect amp with aftermarket head unit and sub will be working? Im confused...:)

Ohh, and does anyone knows where amp is located?

Thanks
 
Depending if you have a saloon or hatch, on the saloon the amp is mounted on the left side where the parcel shelf would be

I'm keeping an eye on this thread aswell as I want to replace my Bose H/U with an aftermarket one, I'm buying the standard ISO connector tomorrow so will update how what it sounds like when I inevitably lose the sub :(
 
Depending if you have a saloon or hatch, on the saloon the amp is mounted on the left side where the parcel shelf would be

I'm keeping an eye on this thread aswell as I want to replace my Bose H/U with an aftermarket one, I'm buying the standard ISO connector tomorrow so will update how what it sounds like when I inevitably lose the sub :(


I have a hatchback... I replaced my Bose CD headunit with aftermaket one. Some old Pioneer. To my ears it sounds better, because speakers sound much more powerfull than they did before... But not as 'clean' as with sub and tweeters... So i want to find a way how to connect them to aftermarket headunit, but cant find anything that i could understand ;)
 
Me neither :( , If you find out how to run the sub and amp let me know :)

I'd love a picture guide :lol:
 
No, just hoping to be able to run the factory sub and amp from an aftermarket head unit

Could it not be done by tapping certain wires from the loom at the back of the head unit into the aftermarket hu loom, so essentially the system still thinks the original head unit is still there?
 
Me neither :( , If you find out how to run the sub and amp let me know :)

I'd love a picture guide :lol:
Hi all
Think this my help.
First you need connect yours chinch plugs from ya new head unit to black bose connector as shown on first photo. Important Only positive ones.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/89/h1ai.jpg/
Second: Disconnect amp located under passenger seat ( you don't need it any way bcose got one in ya new head unit) and make bridge connection as shown in second photo.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/836/80ti.jpg/]
 
Firstly, thanks very much for the images from the guide Robert. I followed them to a tee, and got to the final stage of rewiring the new stereo. I managed to connect the power with an adapter. However, I found that I needed another adapter for the audio - as opposed to the old square scart-style slot, the new radio (kenwood) had two round audio sockets - L/R (Black and Red).

Any ideas on what I need? I've looked all over, ebay etc, but not found a suitable adapter.

Thanks, James
 
Here's the back of the radio in case it helps:

http://www.kenwood-electronics.co.uk/view.aspx?url=http://images.kenwood.eu/files/image/2488/8/original/13_KDC-3057UR_UG_E_BACK.jpg
 
Actually, ignore me. Having tried powering it up I realised the additional connector is for the subwoofer. So as per previous comments. And the R/L isn't essential
 
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