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DIY 7th Gen Dipped Beam Headlight Bulb Change

apintofmild

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OK, so on the Haynes difficulty scale this would barely rate as a one spanner job. But having changed several bulbs (the down side of using NightBreakers) I still managed to **** it up, so I thought I’d write a DIY and possibly save someone else the head scratching…
 
First gather together what you’ll need. First and foremost you’ll need a nice new H1 bulb.

H1-Bulb_zps9661dd50.jpg


Additionally (and optionally) you might find the following handy:
Torch
Wide blade screwdriver
Inspection mirror
Small hands
Patience

What follows covers the driver’s side, but the other side is the same –give or take the washer bottle.

Pop the bonnet and you’ll soon see there’s not a lot of room to work. The trick here is to remove the top part of the washer bottle. Release the washer bottle filler neck from its bracket by sliding it diagonally forwards toward the centre of the car (a wide blade screw driver may help). Lift the filler neck, cap and dip stick completely out of the way.

Remove-Neck_zpsed7d9024.jpg



You now have access to the grey cap on the back of the headlight. This is more of a bayonet than a screw fitting. Rotate the cap clockwise (viewed from the front) noting the movement of the lug on the cap within the recess on the headlamp body. Withdraw the cap from the headlamp.

Grey-Cap_zpsc3e8e744.jpg



Trying to get the cap out of the engine bay (past the VSA and air con tubing) is like a Chinese puzzle. So don’t bother. It’ll be quite safe if left beneath the headlight. Edit: It’s worth removing the cap entirely just once and applying the thinnest smear of silicon grease to both sides of the rubber seal. It’ll make fitting and removing much easier next time round.

The next part is done entirely blind by feel alone. Reach into the back of the headlight and locate spade terminal on the back of the bulb (it has a silicon boot on it) and pull it off. Next feel for the curled end of the bulb retaining spring. Push this forward and then left to disengage the clip from the retainer. The old bulb will more or less fall into your palm.

Remove-Clip_zpsd3f24221.jpg



Refitting the new bulb isn’t quite as straight forward as it seems.

The hole in the headlight is a vertical slot and only just wider than the bulb itself. The flat part of the bulb stem has to be aligned vertically, and crucially the right way up. Once installed the bulb cannot be rotated, so it has to be right first time.

Holder_zpsc66a3100.jpg



As you’re working only with your finger tips and can’t really see, it’s surprisingly easy to fit the bulb upside down, fit the retaining clip, connector, back cap and think you’re done –only to find the beam pattern is all wrong the first time it goes dark ;)

The correct alignment is with the cut corner pointing diagonally up towards the negative wire of the headlight. As mentioned above it will (kind of) fit the other way, and it doesn’t look or feel particularly wrong when you’re doing it.

Right-Wrong_zps0882a218.jpg



When handling the bulb take care to avoid touching the glass envelope. The glass runs at around 200oC and contains very high pressure gas. Skin oil on the glass can cause it to rupture explosively, as can scratches on the glass surface, so take care when passing it through the slot in the (die cast metal) headlight ***embly.

With the bulb in the right orientation re-fit the spring clip. Easier said than done whilst trying to prevent the bulb falling out of the housing. Once done, put the spade connector back on the back of the bulb. It’s worth switching on the lights at this stage, just to check it’s a worker.

The grey cap can now be re-fitted. Note this will only fit one way up. Rotate the cap before fitting so the lug is upper-most and locate it in the recess on the headlamp body, then rotate anti-clock (viewed from the front) to tighten.

Cover-Lug_zpsb3e284d1.jpg



Slot the washer bottle filler back in its keyway and you’re done.
 
I have this DIY as a PDF if anyone wants it (e.g. if my free-hosted pictures start going off line). Just drop me a PM.
 
Nice job Matt;)your pictures can show everything.
 
This is excellent information.
Just fitted NightBreakers today and thought they were very very poor in illumination. I see I have put the bulbs in the wrong way with the flat not near the negative connector.
Many thanks for this.
 
Glad this helped you Leo that's what this place is all about mate
 
I changed mine in a car park in virtual darkness with no more then the light from my mobile phone :p I ***ume its easier if you dont have the VSA module in the way as mines a 2.0 petrol.
 
For the past year I have been ripping my hand and arms to shreds trying to change that ****** bulb, and now I see the top of the water bottle comes out first!!!
what a plonker I am :lol:
Cheers for the guide!
 
This guide is sublime. Great work. Rep points coming your way.
 
aaaaah.... that washer bottle has a detachable section!!

You see, I should have tried this in daylight then I might have spotted it. What a twit I am!

Thank you.
Thank you.
Thank you!

I too spent ages getting my fat hands in positions that it really shouldn't go... Job done at last!

Fantastic pictures by the way.
 
First gather together what you’ll need. First and foremost you’ll need a nice new H1 bulb.

H1-Bulb_zps9661dd50.jpg


Additionally (and optionally) you might find the following handy:
Torch
Wide blade screwdriver
Inspection mirror
Small hands
Patience

What follows covers the driver’s side, but the other side is the same –give or take the washer bottle.

Pop the bonnet and you’ll soon see there’s not a lot of room to work. The trick here is to remove the top part of the washer bottle. Release the washer bottle filler neck from its bracket by sliding it diagonally forwards toward the centre of the car (a wide blade screw driver may help). Lift the filler neck, cap and dip stick completely out of the way.

Remove-Neck_zpsed7d9024.jpg



You now have access to the grey cap on the back of the headlight. This is more of a bayonet than a screw fitting. Rotate the cap clockwise (viewed from the front) noting the movement of the lug on the cap within the recess on the headlamp body. Withdraw the cap from the headlamp.

Grey-Cap_zpsc3e8e744.jpg



Trying to get the cap out of the engine bay (past the VSA and air con tubing) is like a Chinese puzzle. So don’t bother. It’ll be quite safe if left beneath the headlight. Edit: It’s worth removing the cap entirely just once and applying the thinnest smear of silicon grease to both sides of the rubber seal. It’ll make fitting and removing much easier next time round.

The next part is done entirely blind by feel alone. Reach into the back of the headlight and locate spade terminal on the back of the bulb (it has a silicon boot on it) and pull it off. Next feel for the curled end of the bulb retaining spring. Push this forward and then left to disengage the clip from the retainer. The old bulb will more or less fall into your palm.

Remove-Clip_zpsd3f24221.jpg



Refitting the new bulb isn’t quite as straight forward as it seems.

The hole in the headlight is a vertical slot and only just wider than the bulb itself. The flat part of the bulb stem has to be aligned vertically, and crucially the right way up. Once installed the bulb cannot be rotated, so it has to be right first time.

Holder_zpsc66a3100.jpg



As you’re working only with your finger tips and can’t really see, it’s surprisingly easy to fit the bulb upside down, fit the retaining clip, connector, back cap and think you’re done –only to find the beam pattern is all wrong the first time it goes dark ;)

The correct alignment is with the cut corner pointing diagonally up towards the negative wire of the headlight. As mentioned above it will (kind of) fit the other way, and it doesn’t look or feel particularly wrong when you’re doing it.

Right-Wrong_zps0882a218.jpg



When handling the bulb take care to avoid touching the glass envelope. The glass runs at around 200oC and contains very high pressure gas. Skin oil on the glass can cause it to rupture explosively, as can scratches on the glass surface, so take care when passing it through the slot in the (die cast metal) headlight ***embly.

With the bulb in the right orientation re-fit the spring clip. Easier said than done whilst trying to prevent the bulb falling out of the housing. Once done, put the spade connector back on the back of the bulb. It’s worth switching on the lights at this stage, just to check it’s a worker.

The grey cap can now be re-fitted. Note this will only fit one way up. Rotate the cap before fitting so the lug is upper-most and locate it in the recess on the headlamp body, then rotate anti-clock (viewed from the front) to tighten.

Cover-Lug_zpsb3e284d1.jpg



Slot the washer bottle filler back in its keyway and you’re done.
 
Thanks Matt,

very clear instructions.
Just wish I had read them before going to Halfrauds.....
Consulted their magic book, checked with the staff and bought the indicated bulbs.
Came home, found and read your instructions and out to the car to do the deed - only to discover the bulbs I had been sold were H7 :angry:

Ho Hum, back tomorrow

G
 
Did mine today with Phillips extream bulbs and brighter side light bulbs to, all from inside engine bay :) it's 100%
Brighter now £55 for all 6 bulbs worth the money!
 
Very clear pics and write-up, well done!

It is very easy to install them the wrong way up, although there are slots/grooves in the holder and bulb it still fitted OK upside down! Osram Nightbreakers are now working nicely.
 
Grey cap has a screw hole but I never saw screw holding cap to light ***embly.

On lings it shows screw as part of this, could this be the reason we see condensation in headlights?
 
Neither of mine had a screw either. Now my screw cap is missing. I'm surprised it found a way out of the gap but it's now gone.I agree having no screw would make the condensation problem worse
 
Really useful thank you: re changing the main / high beam can you advise re the removal of cover, do you just pull it off, also are the bulb replacements the same?
 
GDL said:
Thanks Matt,

very clear instructions.
Just wish I had read them before going to Halfrauds.....
Consulted their magic book, checked with the staff and bought the indicated bulbs.
Came home, found and read your instructions and out to the car to do the deed - only to discover the bulbs I had been sold were H7
angry.gif


Ho Hum, back tomorrow

G
Halford's application list is still wrong, almost two and a half years later. I went in the other day to pick up a bulb for my newly acquired Tourer. It was only the fact I'd seen it on this thread that I realised it was H1 I needed. Mentioned it to the ***istant. She said loads are wrong and it drives them mad, but nothing ever seems to get done to correct it!

Can anyone tell me, can the passenger side one be done without removing the battery on the diesel? Looks to me as though it's tight but possible. Having had the car only a few days, I'm reluctant to remove the battery if I can avoid it, just in case...
 
Howslo said:
Can anyone tell me, can the passenger side one be done without removing the battery on the diesel?
no need to remove the battery to change the H1 bulb on the passenger side, plenty room to slip your hand down twist cap off and access bulb. When you remove the cap, just remember which notch was at the top, as its a bugger to refit if not aligned correctly. From memory the Honda Logo should be at 3pm on the back of the cap.
 
A small tip which might help, had struggled to remove the grey caps, tried a trick and it worked. Rub small amount of silicone grease on the cap rubber and then close it in future it won't hesitate to open.

Cheers
 
Owing to recent changes in Photobucket’s image hosting service some of the information contained in this thread may have been lost.

Until I’ve found a suitable alternative image hosting service, and the time to re-write the post I have uploaded the original as a PDF here:

http://jmp.sh/SGnnNzQ

Note that this is also uses a free hosting service, which may change its T&Cs in time, or go off line entirely. Until then though, it may help someone…
 
Just a quick post to say that this won't work if you have a diesel... You can just about get to the passenger side bulb if you remove the battery, but the pipework on a diesel around the washer is completely different, and this means you can't move the washer bottle neck out of the way.

In this instance the only way to actually change the headlight bulbs properly.. is to remove the front bumper and then the headlights... I'd advise that you change ALL of the bulbs at the same time to save yourself the hassle of doing it again. 501's for the sidelights, H1's for the main and full beam... Can't remember the ones for the indicators.
 
Matt said:
I had a 7th Gen diesel when I wrote this DIY.

I've changed both sides several times, and never had to resort to removing the bumper, battery or head lights.

My 8th Gen diesel on the other hand is a different story... http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/20809-8th-gen-diy-front-bumper-and-headlight-removal-alignment/
You must have very tiny hands... because this is the amount of room you're working with.


https://www.dropbox.com/s/vied1tbt4b3jaqd/2017-07-06%2014.37.54.jpg?dl=0


There's no way to move the neck of the washer bottle out of the way, in fact if you undo the supporting bolt on the neck... you can only move it forwards. On a petrol there's loads of room to move it out of the way.
 
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