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1999 HONDA ACCORD TYPE-R getting 250+ BHP?

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steviooo2010

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PUG 306
Alright everyone.

Basically just bought a 1999 Honda Accord Type R running 212bhp. Its in my garage because its not going on the road till i've finished work on it. Whats the best way, if possible to get the car pushing around 250bhp or more if possible?

Thanks in advance.

Steve
 
Hi, welcome to TA. Upload some pictures man, we always like to see Type R's here ;) .

You're not the first person to sign up asking how to take their Accord to 250BHP. The thing you've got to consider is that your engine is Naturally aspirated, so to see a 38HP gain is going to require some serious spending £££. Consider a complete replacement (sports upgrade) of air intake, inlet and outlet manifold and exhaust (including sports cat). That will get the car pushing out more, but it still won't yield the kind of increases you're looking for. After that, it's really just upgrading some internals of the engine. Again, very costly :unsure: . I don't know what/if there are any options for a more aggressive ECU remap to compliment the above mentioned upgrades, but if there are, that would certainly improve things. Hondata is the company you need to look at for that. One of our admins here (F6had) has a tuning company with a great reputation. He does a lot of work for people here. I don't know if he offers anything for the 6th Gen Type R, but it's worth enquiring.

Have you been out and ragged it a bit to get a feel for it yet? The Type R is an animal and has a great chassis and with the limited slip diff, if handles brilliantly. If I were you, I'd look into coil over suspension and chassis stiffening rather than engine performance. The Type R is indicative of Honda's ethos of handling sophistication over brute power. I.e. it may get beaten in the straights, but it owns much higher spec cars through the bends. Play to that, work to its strengths, don't get hung up on chasing Dyno figures and it will be an animal on the road and the track.

Of course, if you are dead set on seeing large gains, I think there are some options regards supercharging :D . That would instantly push you into the high 200s possibly even low 300s. But again, it's costly and you may want to consider other engine mods to support it. With a jump in power like that, you might need to strengthen other aspects of the setup so that the engine doesn't go pop. All very expensive stuff.

Anyway, have a nose around the sight, make yourself at home, see what the other Type R owners here have to say on the matter. Oh, and if you want to search anything, use the custom Google search. The standard forum search is buggy and doesn't work properly.
 
As per Steve above, it depends what you want from your ATR.

There are many areas you can work on improving, some don't necessarily give bhp, but make a noticeable difference to the car, such as additional bracing, uprated brakes, lightened flywheels :wub: final drive etc

The H22A7 is quit well tuned so you can only push it so far before you need to look a FI, turbo tends to be favoured as there isn't much room for a supercharger.

Budget is the main factor.
 
Thanks very much for the warm welcome guys and all the information. Ill get back to you all :D To be honest, it's not figures im after as such, I don't drive for corners, just straights. I'm to much of a "loon" to take corners at speed because I never know my limit till i've hit it, i.e losing control on a corner. So yea basically I want to get the car faster down a straight rather than handling and faster round corners :)
 
REPOST!!!! :p

Yeah as the guys have said, getting an extra 38bhp out of it will require some serious work.

I knew of a guy that had a 4th Gen Prelude and did a N/A rebuild and managed to get 220bhp out of a H22A but it was alot of work and cost a fair amount.

To get that kind of gain then you'd need to go down the up-graded internal route and turbo kit, that would cost probably around 2k for a decent turbo kit and all the other parts you need.

Does the ATR have the Honda ATTS system like the Prelude Type S? As I think that can only handle a max of about 230 ish BHP before it goes bang which might be a show stopper.
 
StevStar said:
To be honest, it's not figures im after as such, I don't drive for corners, just straights.
Click to expand...
To be honest mate, you've probably bought the wrong car. The ATR isn't that quick a car, it can be easily shown up by Mr Companycarman in his Audi, BMW etc.

The ATR isn't about being quick, it's about being a road going track car that drives like a slot car.
 
StevStar said:
To be honest, it's not figures im after as such, I don't drive for corners, just straights. I'm to much of a "loon" to take corners at speed because I never know my limit till i've hit it, i.e losing control on a corner. So yea basically I want to get the car faster down a straight rather than handling and faster round corners :)
Click to expand...

Eek! :unsure:

To be honest mate you'd be better off with something RWD or AWD and turbo. Then you can just bolt on Turbo upgrades and spank it on A Roads and Motorways. The Type R is designed for cornering more than straight line speed.
 
AAhhh my favourite topic.
Pretty much as they said above.
If you want increase in BHP in NA way (Natural Aspirated) you will be spending loads of money, yet the cost per bhp would be too high. And again there is only so much you go up!
Another option is a turbo, probably similar price range however much more bhp.

There is a 3rd option, which is probably the cheapest, but can be hazardous to the engine if not maintained, and that is NOS, nitrous oxide.
Don't quote me on this, but it would cost you less than a £1k for the set-up. Not sure on how many extra horses you would get, but most definately you would be looking around 50+

My advice:
What are you after? BHP or acceleration?
If BHP, go forth and modify...spend spend
If acceleration, get a fast car!
 
Even with stage 1 cams, ecu, custom map and everything that goes with it - updated valves and springs, adjustable cam gears etc you'll still see about 230. Well that's what mine gave at the fly and that's with a full exhaust decat and mani.

The above will cost about £4000. Then you'll be after throttle
Body coolant bypass, egr delete, and removal of balance belt. Trust me, I've been there and done that.

You can also get the typhoon induction kit, lightweight fly and Pullies too. Then you'll want lightweight wheels. I've got TE37s and they cost a bl00dy fortune.

Look at the spec list of my car and that's about as good as you can get without spending 10k.

Invest in suspension and exhaust then just enjoy the car as it's a hoot!
 
If you are set on doing this i have a P28 ecu with the harness already made, and chrome map on it for sale.

Remember you'll also need a 2 pin IACV instead of the 3 pin the car comes with.

As I've said I've already done all this toy ATR and reverted back to the nearly standard set up as it's just more
Fun.
 
I dont think the a7 block is great for turbochargers as its open deck so will only take low boost,but even so will go you a lot more than 250bhp.
Simon...how come you ditched the p28?
 
I missed the vtec kick. When running it it had the pace of being in vtec all the time, but I wanted the kick back. That's about the only reason.

If I'm honest I'm much happier with the car spec that I have now, than I was with the cams or the ecu fitted. The car is a fair bit faster than standard and handles like a dream.
 
I missed the vtec kick. When running it it had the pace of being in vtec all the time, but I wanted the kick back. That's about the only reason.

If I'm honest I'm much happier with the car spec that I have now, than I was with the cams or the ecu fitted. The car is a fair bit faster than standard and handles like a dream.
 
Ive already lost a lot of the vtec kick...you need to empty your inbox by the wsy lol
There is a guy near me with a standard ATR by the sound of it,we've had a few early morning runs on my way to work....i can only imagine what he must think ive had done to mine because of the noise and the rate at which i leave him behind B)
The worst thing is on atleast two occasions, a friend of mine has seen "my car" parked up at the shops and put the wipers up and moved the mirrors.....however its not my car :D :D :D :D
 
luvmyaccord said:
Invest in suspension and exhaust then just enjoy the car as it's a hoot!
Click to expand...

^^^+1.Spot on imo.

I spent a lot time investigating modifying 2.0 - 2.5 twin cam four pots without losing day to day driveability which is very important imo (admittedly not on Honda's & on non VVT engines , regardless the laws on physics are no different). From what I could see once an N/A engine is putting out 95-100BHP per litre and 75-80lft lb of torque it just becomes too expensive (as already mentioned by Simon) chasing a few extra BHP, never mind looking for 19BHP per litre from the 2.2 Type R. I'd spend the money on suspension & brakes before anything else. But if you are determined to have 250BHP, you may as well look for 280BHP+ by fitting a S/charger far better value but still costly. You've a truly great car, enjoy it and all of 106BHP per litre. :D
 
:lol: Did you see the MCM boys do this. They got a twin leafblower turbo setup mounted in a V shape and bolted them onto the bonnet. Cut holes in the bonnet to feed the air piped through and everything. looked Maaad! I think it was in the Electric Super Charger Myth Bust episode a few weeks ago. Hilarious stuff :lol: . They actually managed to get better HP gain on the dyno than the eBay $25 electric super charger (which was basically a computer fan attached to the air intake :lol: . Did nothing but blocked the air flow and reduced HP :lol: .
 
Are you after 250WHP (power at the wheels) or 250FHP (power at the flywheel)?

250FHP is relivative doable throw a few 1000 at it.

250WHP is not worth it, diminishing returns on your money. Might as well just stick a turbo on. Or a weak 25 shot Nitrous, being only 25 it wont harm the engine too much.

To get the ball rolling might just keep it simple and get this, http://bisimoto.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_9_103_105_108&products_id=373&zenid=kimgo597arthtfnd286a2cvn97

Its £530 but it gets you 18WHP, 23FHP. Remember 212 is a FHP reading, so you lose 30% in transmission. So with just this (and a tune obviously) you looking at 235FHP already.

Next would be polish and match exhaust ports to manifold.

Then just stick some throttle bodies on there. That see further gains, plus ridiculous sound track.

WHEN, i get my H22a for my 4th gen, i shall not be touching the engine, other than a Bisimoto manifold port matched and throttle bodies. Its been done before by loads of people so plenty of info out there to read up on.

Theres a guy on cb7tuner, that has got 230WHP, thats the equivalent of roughly 300FHP, think hes spent about 10k though!
 
luvmyaccord said:
I missed the vtec kick. When running it it had the pace of being in vtec all the time, but I wanted the kick back. That's about the only reason.

If I'm honest I'm much happier with the car spec that I have now, than I was with the cams or the ecu fitted. The car is a fair bit faster than standard and handles like a dream.
Click to expand...

Now that youve tailored the mods to your liking, you should get one of these Bisimoto manifolds, you wont lose the vtec kick or it wont change the sound track, just more power :blush:
 
Have you got a link Marcus? I've already got the vtec direct mani, but no harm in looking lol.

A little short on money for the next month though. Just spent 4k on the scooby engine. But 370 bhp was too tempting to say no to lol.
 
Oh Russell I've deleted some messages now lol
 
You'd have to spend a lot to get 250+ na power from the h22a7. Speak to andy at vtecdirect as his race car is now running more than 260 if i remember when i met him last.
Otherwise turbo or supercharging would be your best bet, but the only thing is it doesn't work well on the h22a7 but does in the a5 because one is open and the other is closed deck. Also compression ratios make a difference. Where i'm from in brum a person called richard had a supercharged atr but never ran properly and didn't fit in the engine bay. In the end he said he should have got tge engine out of a prelude but did say when his car did run on a rare occasion it was super fast
 
luvmyaccord said:
Have you got a link Marcus? I've already got the vtec direct mani, but no harm in looking lol.

A little short on money for the next month though. Just spent 4k on the scooby engine. But 370 bhp was too tempting to say no to lol.
Click to expand...

4k well spend id say, looking forward to seeing it. Link is on page one
 
Have a read of this thread, this is a H22A prelude running serious power. Might have to sign up to read it, but worth doing.

http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/profiles/dinos-bb1-2-2-si-vtec-t891.html

H22 needs a bit of work to get 250bhp, not as easy as getting 250 out of a K20 Civic Type R.
 
I really dont see how 250bhp is so hard to achieve...i have a manifold,decat,k & n typhoon and an air fuel controller to sort the mixture out a bit...was told when that was mapped its maxed out and there is more power to come....im at 223bhp,a cat back exhaust and an odb1 ecu will get me over 240 atleast....then some cams...then itbs....well over 250bhp
 
Mr Anderson said:
I really dont see how 250bhp is so hard to achieve...i have a manifold,decat,k & n typhoon and an air fuel controller to sort the mixture out a bit...was told when that was mapped its maxed out and there is more power to come....im at 223bhp,a cat back exhaust and an odb1 ecu will get me over 240 atleast....then some cams...then itbs....well over 250bhp
Click to expand...

Its achievable as i said before andy's done it, but is it worth the money?
Also get your car dyno'd on a dyno dynamics machine.
 
Depends on how much you like the car....i definately think its worth it.....
Eurospecs rollers are dyno dynamics ;)

DSC_0228.jpg
 
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