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clutch and gear change problams

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philly vtec

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Location
n,ireland
Car
accord type-s
hi ive got a problam with me type-s accord 2.4 i v-tec its 2003 and mint 1 problam i have is clutch is very stiff and gear change is real hard thier is no wineing in the gearbox but when i select reverse it crunches bad ive heard i might need till change the clutch fluid and adjust i really dont know can anyone help thank you
 
Philip the 1st thing i would do is change the clutch fluid and only use genuine Honda fluid.
If this don't cure it then its your clutch bearing gone and this needs to be changed and put a new clutch in as well mate.
 
philly vtec said:
hi ive got a problam with me type-s accord 2.4 i v-tec its 2003 and mint 1 problam i have is clutch is very stiff and gear change is real hard thier is no wineing in the gearbox but when i select reverse it crunches bad ive heard i might need till change the clutch fluid and adjust i really dont know can anyone help thank you
Click to expand...

If the clutch is stiff to move, as Brett says I'd be changing/checking the fluid level of the master clutch cylinder resevoir. It's possible that you've a failing MC, and as such it's not engaging the clutch properly as such you still have marginal drive with the clutch full pressed. Do you have a fluid leak? Low levels? Check the MC first before stripping clutches, etc.

Changing the clutch is a big enough job on the Accord and I'd try almost anything before going at it (again!).
 
Then this is probably your problem black fluid is shot so change and flush as as soon as you can.
 
philly vtec said:
stiff till move ive looked at the fluid level its grand tho the fluid is very black
Click to expand...

Ok, then definately do a flush. The clutch fluid is hydroscopic (spelling?), basically it absorbs water over time. I found that when I flushed mine it was jelly like in texture. The total fluid is small enough, one tricky bit is the 8mm bleed nut access. It shouldn't be black
 
ive just bought this car so still trying till figuar the car out is thier a bleeder screw around the MC or how do i flush the system and bleed? thank you
 
philly vtec said:
ive just bought this car so still trying till figuar the car out is thier a bleeder screw around the MC or how do i flush the system and bleed? thank you
Click to expand...

I really should take a video of everything I do.... :)

Ok, the bleeder screw is on the end of the slave cylinder. This is located toward the front of the car on the right. It's between the radiator and the top of the gearbox.

The flush procedure is as follows:

1. Extract most of the old fluid from the reservoir using a syringe of similar
2. Add fresh fluid
3. Attach some tubing and an 8mm socket spanner to the bleed nipple
4. With someone in the car, open the bleed nut,
5. get them to press the clutch about 3/4 way down,
6. close the nipple and pull the clutch pedal up
7. Repeat 4-6 about 20 times until the fluid run clean

This takes about 15 minutes of effort and you'll need about 500ml for a flull flush.
 
jayok said:
I really should take a video of everything I do.... :)

Ok, the bleeder screw is on the end of the slave cylinder. This is located toward the front of the car on the right. It's between the radiator and the top of the gearbox.

The flush procedure is as follows:

1. Extract most of the old fluid from the reservoir using a syringe of similar
2. Add fresh fluid
3. Attach some tubing and an 8mm socket spanner to the bleed nipple
4. With someone in the car, open the bleed nut,
5. get them to press the clutch about 3/4 way down,
6. close the nipple and pull the clutch pedal up
7. Repeat 4-6 about 20 times until the fluid run clean

This takes about 15 minutes of effort and you'll need about 500ml for a flull flush.
Click to expand...
id love till see them videos mate lol yes i think i will try this tomoro after work i will give you all a heads up on it i reali hope its not a clutch but thiers no other fault thanx
 
Possibly, or maybe it can be resealed if not too worn. But bleeding it might make the system work OK and is obviously the first thing to do.

And, even if you do need a new cylinder, it's a lot cheaper than a clutch change and is a DIY job!
 
speeking till my mechanic today he is going till bleed and flush the system lets hope it sorts it out fingers crossed just out off noseyness i went till honda they said possibly a new clutch so priced it guess wot im not going till honda if thats the case,lol £700 WOT A JOKE!
 
£700 What does this include fella because if it includes labour its not a bad price TBH.
 
As Jon said please do the simple things 1st as you might be chucking your money away.
 
yes it cant be the clutch cylinder as the clutch foot peg and the cyclinder at the top off the gearbox is getting full travell if i move it a few mill with my foot you can easly see it moving and thier is no leaks
 
I had a similar problem with my gears, crunching into reverse and not wanting to select 2nd.
I found on top of the gearbox 2 cables (gear selectors) they had rubber like bushes where they were mounted to the box, one had small play in it.
I found a thin sheet of plastic and cut it to size to take up the play in the bushes.
Hey presto, goes in 2nd like a glove and no more crunching in reverse
 
Interesting, do you mean the bushes marked in the Red or Blue part of the diagram?

gearselector_zpse2c888a5.jpg
 
People I having the same problem first it was only 2nd and reverse now all gears I will flush and adjust blue part and report back

Sent from my SM-G901F using Tapatalk
 
Drained fluid and replaced, adjusted clutch sensor found the clutch pedal bracket has got damaged to creaking clutch master cylinder.
Am gonna order a master clutch cylinder and find a clutch pedal from breakers.

Sent from my SM-G901F using Tapatalk
 
After removing clutch pedal and master cylinder which caused the clutch pedal to snap on the left, new master cylinder is on order along with clutch pedal from breaker.





 
replaced clutch pedal ***embly and master cylinder, bled system using vacuum pump system, loads of air went through over a litre of brake fluid until system was clean and air free, will be replacing slave cylinder when service is done as wearing out.
Have a look at pic see how gunky the old fluid was with before and after.

 
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