tarmac terror
Members
Decided to spend this afternoon in the garage servicing the Accord. I was unsure about some of the detail on how to change the transmission fluid on the I-CTDI, even after referring to the handbook it was still a bit vague. I thought while doing this I would take a couple of photos (well the wife took some of them) and post a short how-to guide on the forum for the benefit of others.
Tools needed:
10 mm spanner or socket
3/8" ratchet or 1/2" to 3/8 adapter
12" 3/8" extension bar
Flat blade screwdriver
Drain pan capable of holding at least 3L
Other items needed:
3 x 1L bottles of MTF3
crush washer
funnel and plastic tube
axel stands or ramps
paper towels or rags
By far the most important step in the process is step 1 - make sure the filler plug can be located and undone. I will type this again - make sure you can locate and open the filler bolt.
Look behind the battery, just in front of the airbox, you should see a bolt with a square recess in the top of it. This is the bolt you need to remove to be able to fill the gearbox after draining.
I took this pic while refilling, but it shows where you need to look. It took a bit of effort to crack this open on my motor (first MTF change), I have a 3ft steel tube which fits on the handle of my ratchet, it needed a reasonable amount of force on that to loosen this bolt. There is a crush washer on the bolt, which you can see in the pic. Because the 3/8" extension bar fitted neatly into the square recess, the bolt remains on the extension bar, just as a socket would, this enabled the bolt to be withdrawn leaving the washer behind. As the filler bolt is well above the level of the fluid, I did not replace this washer.
Take your car for a short drive to bring the fluids up to temperature, although MTF fluid flows quite well when cold, it will drain more easily when warm.
Jack up the front of the car and place it on axel stands or raise the front of the car on ramps.
Get underneath and remove the undertray. It is secured by 4 10mm bolts at each corner, and plastic pop-rivets. Two of these are up in the drivers side front wheel arch, and one in the passenger side front wheel arch.
locate the drain plug and level inspection bolt.
From a wider angle
and in relation to the engine oil sump bolt.
Using a 10mm socket or spanner, remove the inspection bolt. If your car is level and the oil level is correct, a little fluid should dribble out of this hole once the bolt is removed. If the car is lifted at the front end only, no fliud will come out on removal.
Using your 3/8" ratchet, undo the drain bolt and remove it, placing your drain pan underneath to catch the drained fluid. Allow this to drain most of the fluid. If your car is lifted at the front only, I would recommend levelling the car either by raising the rear end, or lower the front. By doing so, about another half litre of old fluid can be drained.
The drain bolt is magnetised on the end, which will catch any swarf floating around in your gearbox. A light black coating of fine particles is normal, wipe this clean with paper towels or rags.
Once fully drained, install the drain bolt with a new crush washer, but do not replace the inspection bolt. At this point you need to ensure the car is level, using either of the methods above. Reposition the drain pan if necessary to ensure it will catch any fluid escaping from the inspection hole during refilling.
Open the 3 containers of MTF3 transmission fluid
Carefully insert the plastic tube through the washer left behind when removing the refill bolt, and on into the refill hole on the top of the gearbox. Attach your funnel to the plastic hose and carefully begin to refill the gearbox with the first and second litre of MTF3.
Check the hole where the inspection bolt had been removed, it is unlikely any fluid will be escaping just yet. Continue with your third litre of fluid (manual states 2.2 litres for fluid change), at the point where fluid starts to spill from the inspection hole, the gearbox is filled. You can now reinstall the bolt removed from the inspection hole.
Personally I dont see any harm in slightly overfilling the gearbox, I added around another 200ml, your choice on whether you do this on your car or not. I also coat all drain / refill bolts on my car with copper grease with a high graphite content as I hate siezed bolts, again, this is entirely optional.
Carefully remove the plastic tube from the filler hole, ensuring not to lose the washer left down there.
Using your extension bar, carefully install the filler bolt through the washer and tighten this down.
Wipe off any fluid remaining around the inspection bolt and drain bolt, ensure there is no fluid leaking from either of these. Take your car for a short drive to warm the fluid, then recheck for any leakage.
Refit the undertray, tidy away your tools, dispose of old fluid responsibily - job done!
Tools needed:
10 mm spanner or socket
3/8" ratchet or 1/2" to 3/8 adapter
12" 3/8" extension bar
Flat blade screwdriver
Drain pan capable of holding at least 3L
Other items needed:
3 x 1L bottles of MTF3
crush washer
funnel and plastic tube
axel stands or ramps
paper towels or rags
By far the most important step in the process is step 1 - make sure the filler plug can be located and undone. I will type this again - make sure you can locate and open the filler bolt.
Look behind the battery, just in front of the airbox, you should see a bolt with a square recess in the top of it. This is the bolt you need to remove to be able to fill the gearbox after draining.
I took this pic while refilling, but it shows where you need to look. It took a bit of effort to crack this open on my motor (first MTF change), I have a 3ft steel tube which fits on the handle of my ratchet, it needed a reasonable amount of force on that to loosen this bolt. There is a crush washer on the bolt, which you can see in the pic. Because the 3/8" extension bar fitted neatly into the square recess, the bolt remains on the extension bar, just as a socket would, this enabled the bolt to be withdrawn leaving the washer behind. As the filler bolt is well above the level of the fluid, I did not replace this washer.
Take your car for a short drive to bring the fluids up to temperature, although MTF fluid flows quite well when cold, it will drain more easily when warm.
Jack up the front of the car and place it on axel stands or raise the front of the car on ramps.
Get underneath and remove the undertray. It is secured by 4 10mm bolts at each corner, and plastic pop-rivets. Two of these are up in the drivers side front wheel arch, and one in the passenger side front wheel arch.
locate the drain plug and level inspection bolt.
From a wider angle
and in relation to the engine oil sump bolt.
Using a 10mm socket or spanner, remove the inspection bolt. If your car is level and the oil level is correct, a little fluid should dribble out of this hole once the bolt is removed. If the car is lifted at the front end only, no fliud will come out on removal.
Using your 3/8" ratchet, undo the drain bolt and remove it, placing your drain pan underneath to catch the drained fluid. Allow this to drain most of the fluid. If your car is lifted at the front only, I would recommend levelling the car either by raising the rear end, or lower the front. By doing so, about another half litre of old fluid can be drained.
The drain bolt is magnetised on the end, which will catch any swarf floating around in your gearbox. A light black coating of fine particles is normal, wipe this clean with paper towels or rags.
Once fully drained, install the drain bolt with a new crush washer, but do not replace the inspection bolt. At this point you need to ensure the car is level, using either of the methods above. Reposition the drain pan if necessary to ensure it will catch any fluid escaping from the inspection hole during refilling.
Open the 3 containers of MTF3 transmission fluid
Carefully insert the plastic tube through the washer left behind when removing the refill bolt, and on into the refill hole on the top of the gearbox. Attach your funnel to the plastic hose and carefully begin to refill the gearbox with the first and second litre of MTF3.
Check the hole where the inspection bolt had been removed, it is unlikely any fluid will be escaping just yet. Continue with your third litre of fluid (manual states 2.2 litres for fluid change), at the point where fluid starts to spill from the inspection hole, the gearbox is filled. You can now reinstall the bolt removed from the inspection hole.
Personally I dont see any harm in slightly overfilling the gearbox, I added around another 200ml, your choice on whether you do this on your car or not. I also coat all drain / refill bolts on my car with copper grease with a high graphite content as I hate siezed bolts, again, this is entirely optional.
Carefully remove the plastic tube from the filler hole, ensuring not to lose the washer left down there.
Using your extension bar, carefully install the filler bolt through the washer and tighten this down.
Wipe off any fluid remaining around the inspection bolt and drain bolt, ensure there is no fluid leaking from either of these. Take your car for a short drive to warm the fluid, then recheck for any leakage.
Refit the undertray, tidy away your tools, dispose of old fluid responsibily - job done!
