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REVIEW Accord Tourer, Bilstein B8s and HR springs

jayok

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I've posted on the general forum about my intentions a month ago to upgrade the standard shocks on my Accord to Bilsteins. I had already dropped the car using H&R springs and I was somewhat happy with the ride, however after about 6 months the ride because sloppy and twitchy, so I decided to tackle a few items to adress this - the biggest upgrade being to replace the stock shocks with Bilsteins. Other DIYs were to adjust the steering rack screw as there was a gentle knock from the steering and it was floaty.

Shocks
The first thing with the shocks is that Bilstein offer then in different flavours B4, B6, B8 and B12s for the Accord. B4's are standard shocks, B6's sports shocks and B8's are B6's that are modified for lowered cars. A B12 kit is basically a complete coilover with Eibach as the spring provider. Now, what I learned is that there are no B8 shocks for the front of the Accord (Saloon or tourer) and that even in the B12 kit you are supplied with B6s, the rears however are proper B8s (shortened). You can see this if you try to order B8's for the front of the Accord, you'll get the B6 part number - apparently you don't need then. Anyway, I ordered B6 front and B8 rear for my tourer.

Rear
Replacing the rear shock was pretty standard and I've popped up a DIY on this in the 7th Gen section. I'd difficulty with the OSR damper bolt as the thing had seized to the to the steel insert of the bushing. But because of the time spent messing with this, I ended up with doing only the rear shocks first. I drove with these for two days before getting time to do the front.

Results? Massive improvement in handling.

Let's be honest the Tourer has significant weight on the rear compared to the Saloon and with a stock setup really you can feel it wallow in the bends. But the B8 is a shorter shock and what it has done is to force the spring to remain stiffer at all times compared to stock. This makes the rear nice and tidy now in bends and it squats a little lower than with stock. Also as the back of the car isn't wallowing around the place the front of the car also felt more planted.

But the down side, it definately firms up the ride at the rear. It rear felt more like a true sports car setup (like my old BMW M-Sport suspension or Civic Type-R sort of stiff). This in turn introduces cabin noise (rattles), etc from the rear. Depending on what you are after this might not suit you.

Front
After the handling improvments with the rear I was cautiously optimistic on the front. My only worry was if the front was stiffened by the same about as the rear it would absolutely kill the ride to the point of making it too hard. So I stripped out the existing coilovers (stock shock on H&R) and put in the two new shocks. Straight forward job as I'd done this a few times before - awkward bit is the spring compressors.

Anyhow, with the new shocks in I didn't feel the same massive difference in handling as I did with the rear. Certainly improved, but probably about 10% where as the rear probably gave a 90% improvement. On the plus side the B6s for the front are not shortened and don't provide the same stiff ride as the rear.

So onto the roads on motorway the car feels really, I mean really planted. Very much point and shoot type of handling. Long sweeping bends are effortless and you are not fighting the car, it just happily sits there. No vibration, no hopping, nothing. On ramp exits turns (I've tried a few) it's equally planted.

On the A-Roads things are just as good bends are a little more shaper than the motorway but still takes them well. It's become a pleasure to drive them now! :)

But on B-Roads things are tougher - the rear setup is a bit too stiff and there's a lot of bouncing. Now this is not out of control bouncing but rather the setup doing what it was designed for. It's just a firmer ride. I haven't had any load in the boot yet so can't comment on what it would be like with a loaded boot, but we'll see.

Around town speed bump are fines on the front but you certainly feel them on the rear and you will know if you try to cross a speed bump too fast.

Overall Shocks
My original shocks had 92K miles on them and there was benefits from just replacing them alone. But I certainly think the B6/B8s compliment the H&R springs, I find the rear a little stiff, but I can live with it. TBH I spend most of my time on Motorways and A-Roads.

BUT what I've learned from this for the future that to get the true benefits of a lowering kit you really do need to get the shocks done at the same time. I can understand now why Coilovers are the preferred route (although not available for the tourer from Bilstein/Eibach)


Steering Rack Adjustment
My steering overtime had become sloppy and when the car was sitting with the engine off if I quickly moved the steering wheel left to right I got this knocking sound from the steering rack. Researching the internet led me to the steering rack adjustment guide. There's a DIY on a fellow here that done it for his diesel so I decided to give it a go.

Now, I went looking for the Honda specific tool for this from my local dealer and they had never heard of it OR that you could even adjust the rack :huh: After being quote €50 and a lead time of 8-12 weeks for the part (they are $20 in the US and in-stock) I said "No thanks" and bought a 40mm spanner from a bike shop.

After adjusting the rack I have to say that this gave a massive improvement to the overall handing of the steering. Why isn't this done as standard?! It's like a new rack I have! I love it. No longer does the car tramline as much, vibrate in the steering or slop from side to side. It just seems firmer and more pleasure to steer. I recommend that if you can work on an adjusment do it. The tools are simple:

1 x 40mm flat spanner
1 x 3/8" socket driver
1 x Loctite Red

That's it!! Took about 20 minutes to do.

Overall
On an overall basis, I am delighted with the upgrade to the Accord - the rear is a little firm but the handling, along with the stiffer steering wheel is making the car a pleasure to drive. In furture I will not be lower again without doing the shocks at the same time.
 
is any chance for the link to steering rack adjustment guide? sounds tempting especially that it can be done so quick :rolleyes:
 
http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/7153-diy-steering-rack-guide-adjustment/
 
Great write up Jason. Thanks man.

:)
 
Thanks!

I found these springs for about 150 EUR, which is a bargain.

Those Bilstein B8's also look freakin' sexy and they're not even that expensive. Four dampers will set me back about 570 EUR.
 
TBH, as I said, you'll need to combine the springs and shocks to make it worthwhile. The yellow shocks certainly stand out.
 
If the springs are lowering, then you'll blow the stock shocks quicker... TBH, with the cost of stock shocks vs the right answer, spend the money on the right ones.
 
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