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Sticking rear pads

vile

vile

T A Terminator
Staff member
Messages
13,684
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165
Location
Bristol
Car
8th gen 2.4 Manual
Guys as the ***le says i had a sticking caliper or pads today on the rear drivers side.
I only noticed this when i stopped at a junction and pulled out.The noise was a slight vibration and grind at just pull out speed then stopped.
This happened a few times so i pulled over to inspect and found the rear disk very hot and a slight scorch on the pads.
I then moved on again and driving very slow kept on pressing the brakes on and off.
By the time i got home all was ok and the disk was back to normal and no noise :unsure:
The pads were changed front and back 3 months ago with new fluid by HH so no problems there.
Any ideals if this might be the start of caliper problems or brake hose problems as stated in hughezee thread

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/15033-rear-brakes-tourer-saloon/
 
I would want to strip down and investigate. And even if HH did change the pads recently I wouldn't rule out sticking pads. Could be a sticking caliper, but you can't be sure without some degree of braking system dismantling and a careful check.
 
Cheers Jon I will strip them down this week to see.
 
Strip them down brett and see how the pad sits. I even file some of my pad down to ensure this type of thing does not happy. My sisters Micra is suffering from same thing on the front. Going to investigate tomorrow. I suspect her pad is too tight on the carrier, a little filing on the edges and all will be fine i think.
 
TypeR said:
Strip them down brett and see how the pad sits. I even file some of my pad down to ensure this type of thing does not happy. My sisters Micra is suffering from same thing on the front. Going to investigate tomorrow. I suspect her pad is too tight on the carrier, a little filing on the edges and all will be fine i think.
Click to expand...
I have to file down the edges on my pads to make them fit properly as well. Not sure why this has become necessary.
 
Jon_G said:
I have to file down the edges on my pads to make them fit properly as well. Not sure why this has become necessary.
Click to expand...
I think its more to do with mass production and just general quality control not being up to standard. The templates they are using must just be slightly bigger i guess. I even file down the edges on genuine pads, saved me so much problems in the long run.
 
Thanks guys i will keep an eye on this and if it happens again i will investigate.
I no when HH fitted the pads they took great care on cleaning all the sliders and greasing up everything.
 
Remove the stainless steel shims that sit on the carrier rust & dirt builds up between the carrier & shim so makes the pads fit to tight i use a wire disc on a drill to clean the carrier just wipe clean the shims & click back into place.
 
Just replaced my rear pads i had to remove the carrier first as the caliper would not clear the carrier, the inner pad was seized in place between the shims but strangely i had no binding issues.

I took the shims off wirebrushed & ran a flat file over the carrier to remove any high spots cleaned & refiited the shims & my new pads fitted like a glove.

These pads were only fitted by Honda just before i bought the car 6 months ago so its obvious they do not clean under the shims either.
 
Jon_G said:
Did you ever get to the bottom of your problem Brett?
Click to expand...
Funny thing you said that Jon i ordered new rear brake lines and fitting them Sat at my mates garage.
I had a look at Stu thread in Honda click so changing them for good measure.
Also will have a good look at any dirt build up on the brakes and clean where needed.
I've had the same issue twice since I posted but when the brakes cooled they were fine again.
I'm reluctant to change the pads until this is sorted as don't want to ruin another set.
 
File down the outside edges of the sliders to make sure they slide freely. Force the caliper pistons in and out a few times to see if they seem sticky, or one is stiffer than the other.
 
Just an update Iv been around to my mates garage today to fit a new brake line on the rear.
We had the calliper apart and all seems ok except the very worn pads due to heat build up.
I will see how this goes before I replace the pads so fingers crossed.
We are almost 100% the brake line is at fault.
 
Either brake line or perished internal caliper seals Brett
 
F6HAD said:
Either brake line or perished internal caliper seals Brett
Click to expand...
Thanks mate I will see how the new brake line goes.Its odd because this only started doing this when I had work done on the rear suspension so hopefully it's the brake line that was slightly damaged causing the intermittent sticking
 
That's also poss mate.. Either damage or somehow a restriction in the fluid pressure due to a kink or twist
 
I had a chat to Stu from honda click and he has had quite a few 8th gens with the same problem.Also there is a nice DIY on hear about this so will update on how it goes.
It was a very easy job replacing the brake line and took my mate 20 min and no labour charge as mates rates.
 
Cool, Stu's a good lad.
 
Yes good lad I'm going up to the meet on 29th march for the weekend so will be good to see some live works being done by him.
I think Shabz is coming down as well
 
Well guys after 1 week with the new brake line the problem is still there.
Iv got a set of new pads so will strip the caliper apart tomorrow.
Clean everything including the sliding pins.
Guys am I correct in thinking the grease for the sliding pins need to be rubber friendly.
If so i have some moly 55 o ring grease so hopefully will do the job.
Also for the pads I have Moly 77 supplied with the pads.
 
Also guys I will do a DIY for this tomorrow
 
Nice one Brett. Hope you manage to sort the problem.
 
Cheers Steve it's going to be good weather tomorrow so can take my time.
If this don't work I might have to renew the seals in the caliper like Fahad said.
 
We'll new pads in and so far problem solved.The sliding pings were fine but the old pads were welded in.
I'm thinking there was to much copper grease applied when they were last changed as it was baked in there.
I cleaned every thing up with a wire brush and file and greased with moly 77 the recommended grease from Honda.
So only time will tell now.Sorry but didn't have time for a DIY but the one that Honda man made covers all.
 
Sounds positive mate. Good work.
 
Chees Steve and also Iv added another tool to my box.Its a lovely new torque wrench ranging from 5n to 25n ideal for the calipers.
 
Lovely
 
Great news Brett did you remove the stainless shims? As its the build up of rust etc underneath them that wedges the pads & causing the binding.

This cured both my Gen 7 & my current 8th gen it will build up again quickly so clean every pad change.
 
shaun75 said:
Great news Brett did you remove the stainless shims? As its the build up of rust etc underneath them that wedges the pads & causing the binding.
This cured both my Gen 7 & my current 8th gen it will build up again quickly so clean every pad change.
Click to expand...
Yes cleaned under the shims and also the shims themselves.
They looked brand new when cleaned and then applied a smear of moly 77 under and on top
 
I had a sticking caliper on my new (to me) tourer last night, so pulled it all off and gave it a thorough clean up. Seems to have just been down to a big build up of dust everywhere. The piston seemed to be moving OK and was clean under the dust seal. I noticed some pitting on one of the slider pins, so flatted that off with some wet&dry and lots of WD40, then a good clean up of everything, re-grease and reassembly, and it's been OK today. Hoping this has cured it. Thanks for the helpful thread!
 
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