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Limp mode - safe to drive?

Hengist

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Location
New Deer, Aberdeenshire
Car
2005 Accord 2.0 Exec
I'm currently in limp mode (see other thread) due to an error code 22, which is related to the VTEC system not operating.

The car appears to drive fine up to 3000rpm, when it hits the limiter.

Is it OK to drive in the meantime until I get to the bottom of the VTEC thing?

Ta! :)
 
Have you checked your oil mate? I've not read your VTEC error thread but low oil is a common cause for limp mode.
 
I'm currently in limp mode (see other thread) due to an error code 22, which is related to the VTEC system not operating.

The car appears to drive fine up to 3000rpm, when it hits the limiter.

Is it OK to drive in the meantime until I get to the bottom of the VTEC thing?

Ta! :)
If the registered fault code was serious enough, the car would not run. Whatever problem you have you'll be OK to keep driving it for a while... but don't push your luck, as further related faults may develop that are more severe and then leave you stranded.
 
I'm currently in limp mode (see other thread) due to an error code 22, which is related to the VTEC system not operating.

You gonna need more detail on the error code. It's not just that the VTEC system isn't working it's the whole i-VTEC isn't working. So you've no cam phasing either! You're running in a mode that's pretty limiting to prevent any damage to the engine and get you home (i.e. limp). I'd be getting a proper diagnostics on it.

FWIW, you've more than one iVTEC related solenoid on the K20A4. You've both the cam pinlock up one and another than controls the phase of the cam timing. Also, there are sensors to determine crank/cam positioning. These all need to be checked.
 
Crikey. Plenty to be thinking about, then. Thanks for replies.

The car runs fine, as normal in fact, right up to 3K revs. No starting problems, no fluttery idle, no over-run.

Oil level is fine, by the way, though I think I'll change it so at least I know exactly what's in there.
 
Ok, well if you know where the VTC/VTEC solenoids are you can check them if you have a multimeter - they should read between 14-30 Ohms.
 
Cheers Jason - you mean the VTEC solenoid rear RHS of the head, and the oil control solenoid valve on the same side - as labelled M and Q in the pics on the below page?

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=728152
 
That's them. You don't need to strip much to get at them and you don't need to remove them as you're just measuring the resistance across the terminals. Again they should be between 14-30 Ohms.

They are here in the car:

vtec-location_zps49510df0.png
 
Thanks Jason. Can you advise where there may be a PDF manual available - the only one I can seem to find is for US cars.

TypeR - I know. Unfortunately, I have a pretty poorly mother in hospital in Aberdeen who has to be visited. As long as I feel the car OK under 3K I'm going to have to cross my fingers and chance it.

I'd take my Prelude (with its working VTEC), but my Dad can't get in it! :)
 
Errr... not sure if I'm allow post it on the Public forum, so PM sent.
:ph34r:
 
:) Thanks.

Multimeter shows around 16 ohms on the VTEC solenoid, but only around 8 on the "VTC oil control solenoid valve" on the side of the head. That is, with my contortions in getting the multimeter tips to touch the pins in it without actually being able to see!

I'm thinking, as I was getting a constant resistance, that I must've contacted the pins OK - there's nothing else I could've touched in there. So - low resistance there would indicate replacement of that? I wonder how easy it is to change. I'll consult aforesaid manual ...
 
:) Thanks.

Multimeter shows around 16 ohms on the VTEC solenoid, but only around 8 on the "VTC oil control solenoid valve" on the side of the head. That is, with my contortions in getting the multimeter tips to touch the pins in it without actually being able to see!

I'm thinking, as I was getting a constant resistance, that I must've contacted the pins OK - there's nothing else I could've touched in there. So - low resistance there would indicate replacement of that? I wonder how easy it is to change. I'll consult aforesaid manual ...

8 Ohms seems low for that solenoid. If it's that low, it means it's drawing too much current and it has shorten somewhere internally in the coil (***uming you're getting a good contact to test!). The manual will give you a test you can try with the VTC soleniod - look for "VTC Oil Control". Getting the VTC out is is pretty much the cable and 1 bolt, but of course getting at the 1 bolt is the trick.

Before you remove though, if you can wait, I can check my own VTC solenoid later this evening to see what it would read for me. Maybe 8Ohms is ok - I've only ever checked the VTEC one and ***umed the VTC one was the same. I could be very wrong.
 
Not a problem. That would be grand if you could do that.

I'll stick to here rather than PM to save confusing matters! :)

I'll attempt to pick one up from the scrappy while in town anyway, just in case.
 
Not a problem. That would be grand if you could do that.

I'll stick to here rather than PM to save confusing matters! :)

I'll attempt to pick one up from the scrappy while in town anyway, just in case.

Will do - need to finish up in work and get home to the garage. Will post later.
 
It would appear 8 Ohms is the norm for that solenoid:

http://www.hondata.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=16851.

and

http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/content/manual_gen1/Engine%20Performance/VTEC%20VTC.pdf


So it's not that! On to the strainer and/or the oil pressure switch
 
Pressure switch, fair enough - integral to the spool valve / solenoid unit, aye? Perhaps worth getting that unit instead at the scrappy.

As for the strainer, I wonder how I can access and remove that for checking?
 
Pressure switch, fair enough - integral to the spool valve / solenoid unit, aye? Perhaps worth getting that unit instead at the scrappy.

As for the strainer, I wonder how I can access and remove that for checking?

I take it you've done the Oil and filter at this stage before any more stripping?

Oh the strainer is a pain, there's actually two to be done. You've to remove the drive belt and tensioner to get at the 1st the 2nd is part of the VTEC solenoid unit. This guy gave a good example:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PknGSpDsmiI
 
Actually, I've not changed my oil yet, but intend to tomorrow. I made the trip to the local Mr H dealer to get a OEM oil filter. That strainer looks like a bag of fun.

Went to the scrappy and picked up a spool valve ***embly thing for £20 (had to take it off myself because the guy didn't believe it would come off!). Unfortunately, I managed to break the one on the side of the head - it wasn't budging so I tried to prise it with a long screwdriver. It snapped at the point where it goes into the head. Nearest scrappy with an Accord is in Aberdeen, see, so I figured I might as well pick up those bits while I was in town - I'm sure someone else here will get the use of the spool valve if I don't need them.

Meantime, following around 100 mile drive, I stopped to drop my Dad off at home. When I started up again the car did not go back into limp mode for the 30 mile drive home. Which was nice. See what happens tomorrow, though. :)
 
Update - been out for a spirited drive this morning. CEL light went off within a minute of starting up, and didn't come back on again. No limp mode. How strange.

I notice that the 10mm bolt that holds the oil control valve onto the side of the head appears to be poking out further than the one I saw on the scrap car yesterday - as if someone didn't have a deep enough socket to get it all the way in. Guess what - neither do I. :) Next purchase is a deep 10mm socket.

Was going out to change the oil this morning, but I'd never get it done in this wind - I'd have oil blowing everywhere under the car.

<edit>Now it's turned into horizontal snow out there. Oil change = no chance!
 
From what you describe, it's a stuck solenoid, dirty oil or something along those lines.

When it stops snowing, even horizontally :lol: , clean the strainers and do an oil change.

Best of luck with it!
 
Aye, sounds like that sort of thing. If it had been something ******ed then it would stop working. Only other thing could be a bad connection or frayed wire somewhere, I guess. I have a spare solenoid now, though, which could be useful. Might just change the whole unit out anyway. I don't much like problems which just go away - you're never quite sure when they're going to pop up again!

Full-scale cleaning operation coming up. The mesh in the spool valve gasket was surprisingly clean - I'd expected a bit of clogging or muck in there, but nothing. Perhaps the cup of diesel I added to top up the engine oil cleaned the system through with that good long 200-mile run yesterday. :)
 
Errr... not sure if I'm allow post it on the Public forum, so PM sent.
:ph34r:

Hello Mate,

Would it be possible if I could also have the link to that workshop manual?

Regards,

Hodgi
 
Sorry mate, tried to send you the link via PM but for some reason it failed! Will try again later.

Meantime, after a full clean of any mesh filter I could lay my hands on and thereafter few days of working fine, my CEL has come on again.

It happened a couple of days ago just after I'd filled up with petrol. Limited to 3K revs. Stopped the car, cleared error by disconnecting battery, started up again - all working OK.

This morning, it was fine until I stopped to pop into a shop. When I came out again and switched the engine on, the CEL came on straight away. This time, however, it's not limiting the revs. So far, anyway.

Will pull error codes again later, but I'm beginning to suspect a false VTEC error report and thinking about a dodgy lambda sensor possibly caused by a pinhole in the exhaust somewhere (I notice a slight grumble from the front pipe area starting to be heard) that's returning an occasional problem to the ECU.

There doesn't seem to be a consistent condition for the CEL to come on - sometimes on startup, sometimes during a drive under cruising conditions in top gear after driving fine for 20-odd miles.
 
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