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Clutch Replacement

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ataraxia

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Location
Birmingham
Car
Honda Accord
Hi all, first post.

In July last year I had my clutch and flywheel replaced, however not by a Honda dealer. To cut a long story short, had problems with the garage that fitted it because they screwed it up the first time and I ended up in a massive argument with the garage manager. The reason I went to them is because I was recommended by another garage, online reviews and word of mouth, they also did the job for £900, when Honda had quoted over £1,000 for the clutch alone.

For the first couple of months it was fine, however it started to slip slightly and this has developed now nearly to the point it was at before I had it replaced. It has good days and bad days, it mostly only happens in 4th gear and above, when I'm cruising around 2,000 rpm and accelerate away. I took it into Honda today and took a mechanic out in it, they saw it slipping and checked for play in the clutch pedal but said it was fine.

Because it hadn't been replaced by Honda, it wasn't covered under their warranty, nor can they guarantee that the parts fitted are genuine Honda (the prices would suggest not). They said a new clutch and flywheel from them would be £2,100, but recommended I take it back to the garage that fitted it. I really don't want to do that, the garage can't be trusted and at some point I may be starting a legal argument, depending on how this develops, which is why I haven't said who they are.

So I have 3 options: put up with it, sell the car, or pay up to £2,100 for Honda to fix it (whatever that involves). Does anybody have any advice? I was initially brought here by this thread, where F6HAD took his 7th Gen to Holdcroft Honda and they worked their magic on it. I've no idea what the problem is, it could be shoddy parts, shoddy job, or both. I really don't want to sell the car because I haven't had it that long and I love it! Any thoughts?
 
What makes you think the flywheel will need replacing? Anyone can fit the clutch on this car to be honest.

Can't see your location from my phone but my guys in Bradford can do this job.
 
Nothing makes me think the flywheel needs replacing, I was told it needed it. I don't know the first thing about clutches so I have to trust a garage, which has stung me hard.
 
When my clutch went, they called me half way through the day and told me the knackered clutch had left the flywheel damaged and needing doing also. I think it makes the flywheel uneven or scorched or something?
 
I'm ***uming this is a diesel? The clutch usually wears in a non-typical way, where the pressure plate loses clamping pressure and therefore allows the driven/friction plate to slip... this tends not to damage the flywheel.

I have seen many threads on various Honda forums where replacement clutches - whether Honda or LUK (same thing) - develop slippage much earlier than the owner would expect. I believe this is because the pressure plates were fitted by inexperienced mechanics and have not had the pressure plate self-adjusters correctly pre-loaded. Honda use a special tool, but it can be improvised if you understand what you are doing.
 
When you say Honda and LUK are the same thing, what do you mean? Because the garage are (apparently) LUK approved and use LUK DMFs
 
Sorry, just seen this is an 8th gen... not sure who makes the clutches for Honda for these models (LUK supply the clutches and DMFs to Honda for the 7th gen i-CTDi). It could be LUK?
 
This makes for grim reading. Clutch on mine started slipping yesterday. Am i seriously looking at over a grand to replace it?
 
Give HH a call guys. I'm sure you won't need to pay £1K if you put the hours in on research.
 
Scott, not necessarily. The reason I have this problem is because I took the car to some where non-Honda to repair, so Honda are getting funny about working on it. If yours is wearing out prematurely, you're in the position to complain to Honda and plea for a serious discount from them to cover for sub-standard factory fittings (sure I heard somewhere that somebody got it down to £600!!)
 
This is from another topic,but it sounds like they bolted the clutch up without the compression tool.

Note i did this for £852.00 all in Honda want £1000 for the flywheel you can only source the clutch from them at around £250.00 which is resonable.LUK flywheel from Andrew Page around £350 & yes its OE equipment.


I have a judder in forward & reverse gears but at 119000 miles its also slipping intermittently as the auto adjust must keep taking up the final bits of wear, the clutch & DMF are being replaced next week so i'll see how it drives after that & update.

Note this is a SAC 2 clutch meaning self adjusting clutch series 2 this is why the pedal feel or bite does not change as it wears LUK claim it lasts up to 1.5 times longer.

The problem was it went in for fitting on Tuesday the garage didn't want to do the job without the compression tool we found one on e bay for £120 most are £300 plus.

After speaking to LUK technical they said if your very careful you can still bolt up without the tool but you risk distorting the self adjusting mechanisam so be careful that your workshop don't just bolt it up as if its a normal pressure plate as its easy to miss that its self adjusting, luckily for us there was a leaflet enclosed with the Honda OE clutch & it states. DO NOT ATEMPT TO INSTALL WITHOUT THE COMPRESSION TOOL IRREVERSIBLE DAMAGE WILL ACCUR.
 
Same as I suggested for the i-CTDi then. Not sure if it's a different clutch or not, but I would ***ume it was.
 
The 2008 (early) 8th gen uses the same setup as gen 7 but theres a change from a certain chassie number in late 2008 early 2009 the DMF is different & it was fitted with self adjusting SAC 2 clutch,did the gen 7 have self adjusting then ? If so they would have been SAC 1 i would think.

Still if some one bolts up a self adjuster without the tool or great care without the tool damage will accur & i ***ume this will prevent the adjusting ring to lock out hence early clutch slip .
 
Yes, all i-CTDi engines were fitted with a self-adjusting clutch. The normal failure mode is for the self-adjuster to reach the limit of its range and then the pressure plate clamping force becomes inadequate.

The i-CTDi clutch came in 3 successive versions, the original 305 (last 3 digits of part number) version, a slightly improved 315 version and the final 325 version which is generally considered to be reasonable. I don't have any reference data which confirms the release dates for these versions, but I'm now wondering if the most recent one (which I have heard was released in 2009) is the same one you refer to?
 
Hi Jon

Just took a look at my invoice's for the clutch it ends in 315 so its not the latest version for my chassis number.

Part numbers are clutch 22105RL0315 List price £175.88 +VAT
Release bearing 22810PPT003 £32.45 +VAT

DMF Part number is 415046810 LUK same as OE £352.44 inc VAT
 
shaun75 said:
Yes mate its on the post i did above yours
Click to expand...
Seen that i thought their was a newer clutch finishing 325 cant find when google only thing getting is for the civic 2.2
 
Try your chassis number with local Honda dealer see what number they come up with, 325 part may not list for accord but may fit but how you confirm that i don't know maybe Honda UK can help.
 
Forgot to mention try LUK Technical Helpline very helpful guys i did post the number on here somewhere if i remember, but they do make the clutch for the Accord.
 
clutch in Honda dealer regardless of location should really be £640 fitted I believe...im afraid as others have said, if a special tool is not used or even if the clutch cover has been dropped then it is highly likely you will have problems.
 
Not including DMF I was quoted happy at around £850 all but that was with motor factor flywheel honda DMF £1000.
 
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