Once the cover is back on, you can start wiring (to be honest I actually wired it in before refitting the cover to make sure it was working ok!). As I just fitted the driver’s side, I was happy enough to take the power from the 12V socket (think it draws around 50W, the socket is rated to 120W). If you are to fit the passenger side as well then probably best to take the power from elsewhere.
There are two power leads, one from your main power source (intended to be the battery), and one to connect to a switchable power source (i.e. something like the 12V socket that only comes on when the ignition is turned on). In my case, I just wired both unto the positive of the 12V socket and the negative to the negative on the socket. I used soldered connections and some flexible protective piping.
It’s probably easier to remove the whole centre console and wire it that way. Initially, I was going to fit the switch on the blank beside the VSA button, but the blank is too small. So I ended up fitting the switch on the trim under the handbrake (see later).
Centre Console Removal
Unscrew the gearstick knob, then remove the trim around the gearstick (good pull on forward and back, its just clipped on). Remove the bin from beside the cigarette lighter. Remove the screws (there are 4 as far as I remember). Then remove the whole part and disconnect the bulb and cigarette lighter.
To remove the cupholder and trim, again, its just clipped on so just work with it.
Then, remove the rubber mat in the centre console storage, and unscrew the 2 large screws and the small screw holding the 12V socket. There are 2 further screws just in front of the handbrake, undo these as well. Then unclip the 12V socket and wire. You should then be able to work the centre console out.
Using a piece of flexible copper wire, I was able to make a fish line down under the carpet to under the seat. The carpet is pretty tightly fitted. The photo shows where I eventually got the other end with a bit of working around, just beside the heater vent.
When trying to get the cable through under the carpet, don’t do as I did and try and pull cable and plug through, it’s just too tight and I ended up pulling the plug off the wire! Probably better to cut the wire at a convenient point and then join it back together.
Once you’ve the cable through under the seat it’s just a matter of connecting everything up and putting the car back together again! I found there is a good space under the storage bin to push the control boxes and fuses out of the way. I then put the various exposed cables in flexible piping and then secured them as necessary. It’s especially important to take care with the cable going under the carpet as it sits beside the handbrake and could be prone to getting nipped by it.
After testing it for a few days now I am really delighted with the seat warmer. It takes about 5 minutes to get fully warmed up, probably a little longer than the seat cover ones. Once fully warmed it is very noticeable, even on the low setting.
My only gripe is that the “illuminated” switch is lit all the time when the ignition is on, even if the heater is not on. I’d have preferred a nice back lit one with the red LED coming on when the heater is on but this is no big deal.
For reference (and from memory), the following is what cables connect to which (I highly recommend you note down all cables and connections before starting anything as they may differ from this).
Switch has three wires, which have been pre-numbered. The switch itself has 3 small numbers beside the pins. Wire I goes to pin 1, wire O goes to pin 2, and wire II goes to pin 3.
The heater element harness wire that goes under the carpet, connects into a white block supplying the individual elements:
Blue goes to Orange
Brown goes to Black
White goes to Green