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DIY Alternator change

Salim

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Accord
I replaced my faulty alternator on the diesel Accord, I took some pictures as i went along so i can add it to the knowledge base.

My alternator clutch went, but it is a known issue that the bearings can were out on these due to the location of a idler pulley, the belt is tight around the alternator pulley applying to much force. The HONDA fix is new bearings and a new shorter belt routing illiminating the offending idler which eases the tension alot. If you look it makes sense as the idler is very close to the alternator causing a tight wrap around the alternator.

I didn't put the shorter belt on today as i didn't have it, but in warmer weather i will. The guide is still applicable to changing over to the new belt system and i'll cover it below


what you'll need:

10/12mm Spanner + in socket form
14mm long reach ring spanner preferably with 40deg bend
WD40 with straw
basic things like screwdriver, pliers etc..
possibly a extra pair of hands when putting belt back on

hammer, plasters, tea when things don't go right :)

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Please read this ALL before going ahead with the job. I'll try to make it as detailed so anyone who has the tools can do it, I would say its a fairly straigh forward job
once you know how and this guide 'should' make it a doddle.


CLICK TO ENLARGE
16112010352.jpg



Disconnect battery

While removing bits/bolts remember to note where they go back in.


We will be removing one of the two fan shrouds to allow access as without removing it the alternator WILL undo but will not come out the bay as i learnt. If your just changing belts it may be
possible to leave this in.

There are four 10mm bolts to remove at the top and two to loosen bottom end but before you do, get under the car (i didn't jack it up)and partially undo the tray cover. 2 10mm bolts either end and 3 trim clips this will allow you access to the two bottom bolts. These will be slightly rusty so spray plenty wd40 on now.

Back at the top remove the 4 bolts starting with the two holding the coolant reservoir, then the other two holding the fan shroud. The wiring plug is held CLIPPED into the shroud, UN-CLIP these DON'T pull.

fanshroudremovaltop-1.jpg


the top is now free, proceed underneath the car and locate the two bolts at the bottom of the fan shroud, these will be paralel with the two top bolts. The bolts may be enlarged with rust, I used a 11mm ring spanner to loosen the rust off first before it catched with the correct 10mm. You only need to loosen to remove the shroud. make sure all wires (2 wire plugs, 1 cable clip) are removed, remove the fan shroud.

picture of bottom bolts from top with shroud removed

shroudfanremovalbottom.jpg


Now you have access to manouver, we can start on the alty. Disconnect the wiring plug, earth (10mm bolt), and cable clip. locate two top bolts on the alternator remove them and the shield they hold.

altyremovalshield.jpg



There are two more at the bottom remove them, the belt will come away alternator now comes out

you can just make out bottom bolts

altybottomnut.jpg


Note: bolts are different size so note which way the go

altyshield.jpg


if you are doing honda's revised way using shorter belt and minus idler pulley, this is located closest to the alternator. you can remove this ONLY if your using the shorter belt guys!

idlerpulley.jpg


below is how to route the new belt, also shows how the old belt is routed. Its a tight space but a new belt can be routed with fair ease getting from under the car.

As you can see its a much better way compared to old.

DieselReroute.jpg



with the alty out you can service/change whatever it is needed.

re-fitting is just in reverse with a few additions adding the belt, when re-installing the alty first attach the belt to alternator but it wont line up with the bolt holes with the belt on being too tight,
what you need to do is attach the 14mm long reach ring spanner to the pre-tensioner nut (below P/S pump) and turn clockwise this will slacken the belt allowing you to line the bolt holes up, put one in the top left as a stay (don't tighten) and locate the bottom left and tighten then replace the other bottom bolt.
once the two bottom bolts are in the wont budge, remove the top bolt re-install the shield and replace top two bolts. This is the way i found easiest, you may find bolting in the alty and then putting the belt over easier.
The pre-tensioner is spring loaded so will return to it tensioned position when you let go.

pre-tensioner.jpg



Its wise to remove the two bottom bolts that hold the shroud and remove the rust and add a little copper slip to the threads.
re-install the rest in reverse order, re-connect battery.
All done.

Hope this helps a few people out.
 
Nice writeup mate, does look like a big job though so well done on taking it on
 
Fantastic write up Sal, and kudos for doing this yourself!! :(

Did you replace it with a brand new part or a recon?
 
Great write up Sal, I'm sure this will help many others... :(
 
Superb write up this is what I call a quality thread many thanks for taking the time to do the DIY :(
 
Thanks guys, was fun doing it lol. Fahad the alty was used coz i'm probably going to replace the clutch and bearing in mine and swap it out with the shorter belt in summer. Paid 90+del if anyones interested. Was nice actually seeing some space in the bay with all that out :)
 
Is TA possible without CJ?

mate you know that if it wasn't for your guidance the alternator would still be stuck in the bay and i would ripped the bumper off.
Credit where it due, CJ is a deep well of knowledge.

well done chap.
 
For anyone that needs it CJ gave me the part number for the shorter revised belt.

part number is 04301RBD305 he reckons around £30
 
£44.92 inc vat just bought it on Saturday thats just joe public price though.
 
Get a room ladies :lol:
 
Nah I never fitted it got a mate to do it.
 
Thanks for this SAL, changed my alternator this morning (took about 1 and a half hours in total) - hardest bit was the lower fan shroud bolts (as you mentioned), but rest was straight forward thanks to your walkthrough.

Touch wood - no rattling noise so far, so jobs a good 'un!

Aircon still not working tho!!!!! Buts thats for another thread!!

Thanks again!
 
Couldn't for the life of me get that tensioner off.

Is there a knack for it? Wouldn't budge.
 
GOOD WRITE UP BUD.
JUST ONE QUESTION. WHEN SWAPING TOO THE SHORTER BELT DOES THE HOLE NEED TOO BE PLUGED OR IS IT JUST SIMPLY TAKE IT OFF AND LEAVE IT BE.

CHEERS RICH.

PS SOZ ABOUT CAPS, WONT TURN OFF :)
 
Wish I had known about this problem....alternator failed yesterday.....recon unit on way via HH and the new shorter belt so can mod at the same time!
 
Huge thanks to Salim, I wouldn't have even considered attempting this without this guide. I'm not a total mechanical dunce but a mechanic I'm not. If I can do this, anyone with sufficient time, patience and the tools Salim listed, should be able to do it and save a few quid.

I'd suggest getting the tension off that belt and slipping it off first, not least to prove that you'll be able to deal with the tensioner and get the belt back on at the end. I struggled with this because I didn't have a long, offset ring spanner for the tensioner nut, and I personally wouldn't bother doing this again without one (or a tool made to fit.) Also, if you do it without firstly removing the belt, when you take out the last bolt on the alternator theres a possibility to damage the threads in the aluminium block - there's quite a lot of tension pulling the alternator across once the bolts are out. That or make sure you've got your biggest pub-arm supporting the alternator when you get down to the last few threads at least.

I've probably eaten more pies than Salim and found this easier on ramps. I liked a bit more room to get my elbows under the car to loosen up the bottom fan bolts.
 
Big cheers to Salim - thanks to you I have managed to remove my alternator - will be going in for a rebuild/service tomorrow.

Had a bit of a struggle removing the sensor to the left of the cooling fan shroud - but figured it out in the end.

Just a question about refitting - I do not need to remove the tensioner - just lever it clockwise using the 14mm long arm ring spanner to release the tension on the belt?

I will try to source the shorter belt here in Malta.

Thanks again.
 
Changed to the short belt option, no bother followed the thread on here, but when changing the alternator can it not be bolted back on then the belt fitted?? using the removal tool.
 
Just for info, shorter belt needs to be around 1785mm, so universal belt code PK1785 (or PK1784, or PK1788). Can be bought far cheaper than at Honda (mine was recently less than £13).
 
@John - yes, I would fit the alternator and lastly the belt.

@Emile - yes, turn the bolt head (14mm, IIRC) clockwise to release belt tension.
 
:)Nice too see the guide is still helping people out. Who knows I might be back in a Accord in the near future.

I would agree looking back, it's be better to remove the belt and then attaching after the Alternator has been refitted is the proper way to do it. Just on the day this seemed to be easiest but you run the risk of cross threading bolts and all sorts.
 
All sorted thanks for all the tips! Was a very tight fit, in the end I held the tensioner released all the way while an ***istant turned the power steering pump pulley anti clockwise using a 19mm spanner.

Used the short belt and replaced the tensioner bearing - although the old looks brand new seemed new, I only replaced it as I had bough a replacement anyway. Let me know if anybody needs it and is prepared to pay for the post.

Alternator needed new rectifier - €60 + €15 labour charge and is now charging happily!

Thanks again.
 
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