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DIY - Replace bad/cracked manifold on 2.2 i-ctdi Accord 2007

exhaust manifold replace turbo bad ceacked; new fitting diy

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#1 SirHansen

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Posted 13 September 2014 - 12:03 PM

Hi

 

In this DIY, I will explain how I did the removal and installation of the new exhaust manifold.

I apologize in advance if there are any error in my writing, I am from Norway, and this is my first post so please bare with me  :D

 

Honda has an 7 year/200000 km service on this error, but mine was 3 months to old, so I did not get this one covered.

 

Here in Norway, just the exhaust manifold cost 5 500 NOK, about 550 £, and then the work cost comes on top with about 1000 nok/100£ per hour, my *** hurts!  :unsure:  :wacko:

 

It all started with that I smelled exhaust fumes inside my car wen I was idling when the car stood still.

I removed the heat shield over the manifold and this was totaly black underneath because of the sot, pictures below.

 

 

 

What you need.

 

1. Socket wrench set

2. Allen key set

3. Plastic gloves, I used this with one plastig strip to "blind" the hoses i took of. I did not have a hose clamp  :P 

4. I used 2 Car stands, so I could access the car from beneath.

5.One good rust lubrication! I bought one really good at my local Würth dealer. Highly recommended on those rusty bolts!

6. I bought my manifoild kit from www.balmerlawngroup.co.uk, Superb kit! 

 

KGrHqZhE1fKuEONBNgHb4WBqg_12.jpg

 

7. I used 7 hours on this job, we had some problems with some of the exhaust bolt

 

 

 

Start of work!

 

1. Remove the engine cover, it is 4, 10 mm screws. 

 

 

motorlokktegning.jpg

 

 

 

 

2. Remove  the vacum hoose, the coolant hose, breather hose and oil hose

 

I just used the plastic gloves and a plastic strip to blind the coolant and oil hose.

 

20140911_111349.jpg

 

The breather hose is number 9, just loos it from the cylinder head cover

 

E__3900.jpg

 

The coolant hose beneath, as you can see on the first picture. There will come out some coolant here, so try to blind this hose as fast as you can if you dont have hoose clamps. All this coolant is coming from the inside heatexchanger. The small hose is the oil hose, remove the clamp on this one also. If you manage take of the air hoose clamp to the turbo and pry the hose off.

 

3. Remove the heat shield over the manifold

 

The heat shield is attached with 3 screws (nuber 4 on the drawing), 14 mm. The new manifold has only 2

You may have to fiddle some to get the shield out from its place, but keep calm and it will come out.

 

E__3400.jpg

 

This is how mine looked beneath, it is clearly a exhaust leakage!

 

20140911_113919.jpg

 

 

 

4. Under the car, remove the flex part on the exhaust,

 

The flex is number 8 in the picture, 

The bolts and nuts are 14 mm

Remove the bracket that is holding the flex part also

B__0202.jpg

 

20140911_111825.jpg

 

20140911_111831.jpg

 

 

 

 

5. Remove the 2 air hoses from the turbo if you did not do if from above

 

6. Remove the coolant and oil pipe lines that oes in/out from the turbo, and goes into the engine block.

 

You have to remove the lines completely, I managed to losen it from the turbo, and on the returline og the oil. The coolant from the tom of the engine I managed to loosen from the top of the engine. The last pipe is at the left og the engine bay, this one is easier to remove from the bottom of the enginge

 

The line you have to loosen is nr 1 and 13.

 

Just take your time.

 

E__3410.jpg

 

7. Remove the Converter that goes in tho the turbo

 

On this one I used a lot of rust lubricant, do not stress on this if it is stuck or you will brake the nuts form and they you are in s**** up to your ears

 

 

E__3420.jpg

 

8. Remove the Turbocharger

 

On this you have to be gentel so you don't brake the vacuum clock on top of the turbo, and make sure the pipes for the coolant and oil to the turbo is taken care of.

Used a lot of rust lubicant on these 3 bolt also, this lubricant is fantastic!

When the nuts are off, remove the supporting bracket, remove turbocharger away brom the exhaust maifold, and down and out from the engine bay.

 

9. Remove the exhaust manifold

 

Use the rust lubricant on this also! There are 8 nuts on the manifold.

 

E__3400-1.jpg

 

This is how mine looked after the removal, you can clearly see that the welding is cracked! This is not good, exhaust fuems inside the car is dangerous! I think Honda should have exstended the waranty of this failure to 10 years. This manifold has been usen on the Diesel engine sine they came in 2003/2004

 

20140911_162226.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9. Installing the new exhaust manifold 

 

Just do it revere order, just make sure that you remeber to put on new gaskets if you have bought the complete set/kit

 

When you are attaching the turbo, there is a trick to attache the pipe lines before you tighten the turbo down on the manifold.

 

The rest is easy peacy  :P

 

Make sure that everything is connected back again, the coolant hoses, oil hooses, vacum and breather hooses, before start up!

 

I had to to off my coolant before start up, i managed to spill some when I removed the coolant hose  :lol:

 

When you start, just let it run for 10-20 secunds on the 3-5 first start, tis is to make the oil and coolant come trough the system.

 

A little tips in the end, if you have no warm air inside the car from the aircon when the car engine is warm, you have to top off your coolant level, and maybe get the air out.

 

 

I bought a complete set, but you can just buy the manifold also. If you have welding equipment you can weld the old one also

 

I have alot of pictures but I was not allowed to add more  :huh:

 

Hope this helps!

 

Best regards from Norway  :D

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


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Honda Accord 2007 2.2 i-ctdi

#2 SirHansen

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Posted 13 September 2014 - 12:05 PM

Here are the rust Lubricant, fantastiic stuff!

 

20140911_135819.jpg

 

20140911_135858.jpg


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#3 SirHansen

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Posted 13 September 2014 - 12:11 PM

Some more pic

 

20140911_164850.jpeg

 

20140911_164853.jpeg

 

20140911_164857.jpeg

 

20140911_162231.jpg

 

20140911_162202.jpg


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#4 F6HAD

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Posted 13 September 2014 - 12:17 PM

What a fabulous addition to the knowledge base.

Top work man!!
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#5 DiD

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Posted 13 September 2014 - 01:23 PM

Kudos man!! Top work!! Thanks for sharing!!


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#6 SirHansen

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Posted 13 September 2014 - 04:39 PM

Is there anyway to modify the first post I wrote? I see that I have some writing errors :D :D :D 

 

 

I have to add a picture of the new washed Accord, with a working exhaust manifold ;) 

 

 

229133_10150244833911171_480021_n.jpg


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#7 accord_n22

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Posted 13 September 2014 - 08:07 PM

Epic mate.

Great work and massive respect for completing that work :)


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#8 Stevearcade

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Posted 13 September 2014 - 10:19 PM

Lovely looking motor mate.


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My CM2 - Cold Air Intake with K&N Filter, Custom 2.5" Stainless Steel Exhaust, Reflashed ECU, Custom Made 8J Steelies from Extreme Offset, BC Racing Coilovers, Short Shifter, Type-R Gear Knob, XCarLink iPod Interface, Interior & Exterior LED Bulb Conversion, Wind Deflectors, Yellow Fog Lamps, JDM size plates, Type S Grill (with blacked out chrome), Front & Rear Type S Skirts.


#9 F6HAD

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Posted 14 September 2014 - 10:17 AM

Send one of the mods the changes via private message and they can make it
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#10 SirHansen

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Posted 14 September 2014 - 11:53 AM

Thanks for the info ☺
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#11 Fandango

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Posted 14 September 2014 - 12:15 PM

Excellent contribution, well done.

 

Although it still looks far too much like hard work for me!


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#12 SirHansen

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Posted 14 September 2014 - 07:09 PM

Just take your time, and you will manage the work Just remember to use some sort of rust lubricant on the nuts on the manifoil, turbo and exhaust parts.
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#13 Jon_G

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Posted 14 September 2014 - 07:38 PM

I really need to do this as well. Thanks for the guide Marius.


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#14 stone

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Posted 16 September 2014 - 10:18 AM

I could have done with this info a week ago when I started replacing my exhaust manifold, undoing the nuts were a nightmare as they were tight as hell and there's little space for leverage. I'm on the putting things back together stage now (when I get back from work later this week from a job in norway coincidentally) I can't find how tight to torque the exhaust manifold nuts, did you bother to torque them to any setting or just do them very very tight? Ideally I would like to torque them just to save the possibility of having to retighten or the gasket failing to seal properly.

 



#15 SirHansen

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Posted 16 September 2014 - 01:36 PM

Hi,

I did not bother to torque the nut to a specific torque. My torquerench is to big to make use of to this work 😀

I just startet from the middel of the manifold and worked my way to the ends of the manifold i an "crisscross" pattern. Have not had ny problem on my car. But remember to not overtight! Just use common sence when tightening. ☺

Edited by SirHansen, 16 September 2014 - 01:37 PM.

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#16 Jon_G

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Posted 17 September 2014 - 09:24 AM

According to the Honda manual, new self-locking nuts should be used and tightened to 33lb.ft. 


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#17 SirHansen

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Posted 21 September 2014 - 09:43 AM

An update after the change:

 

I have 1100 km on the new manifold now (long distances in Norway)

No fumes inside the cabin

No leaks from coolant or oil tubes/pipes

I am currently at 0,52 l/10km. I dont know what that is in mpg :)

Car sounds better, with the cracked manifoild I had this ticking sound when the manifold was cold.

I dont know if I am imagine this, but the car seems to bee more quicker and strong on low rpm :)


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#18 TypeR

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Posted 21 September 2014 - 09:54 AM

That is a very good write up mate. Really impressed with th3 detail and im sure it will be beneficial for our members.

Its writeups like this that really make this place such a great kniwledge base.

Thank you for taking the time out and doing this.
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#19 SirHansen

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Posted 21 September 2014 - 10:35 AM

Thanks :) I hope this can help others with the same problem.

Used about 7 hours on this job, and I drank 4 liters of coffe, didnt sleep that night :D


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#20 F6HAD

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Posted 21 September 2014 - 12:33 PM

It's not imaginary, your car will be quicker as your turbo will be operating correctly now.
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