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Fuel pump removal and relay switch location

D

Dalerobert

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Location
Sheffield
Car
1.8 vtec sport
Im after abit of advice and was wondering if anybody had replaced there fuel pump and how easy is it to replace as im nearly 99% sure its that whats starting to fail the only thing i need to check before im 100% is the relay switch for the fuel pump any help would be appricaited guys
 
when you first turn on the ignition, can you hear the fuel pump prime?

The pump is in the tank, I've never heard of one failing but that doesn't mean it's not....
http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection.php?block_01=17S1A11&block_02=B__0300&block_03=2225

and as far as i'm aware, you're looking for the pgm-fi relay, which I think is number 21 in the link below...
http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection.php?block_01=17S1A11&block_02=B__1311&block_03=2225

Also, have you changed the fuel filter?
http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection.php?block_01=17S1A11&block_02=B__0400&block_03=2225
 
No cant hear it prime its not started three times not very intermittent i got a price for a fuel pump which new has to be a main dealer part and it was 244 plus vat
 
What about the ignition switch, has it shown signs of switching off just after starting?

Even though there was a recall done on them, they can still wear out. The contacts go, then you can have non start issues
 
Ive heard a bad earth could cause it but surely nothing would work if that was the case surely??
 
I did when i first had it it would just cut out but its not done it for a good year its wierd becuase it only happens when its been driven and co e to start it its never not started from cold
 
If you can't hear it prime it could be the relay, happened to me once, replaced the relay and all good.
 
I really hope so that is the next thing to check is there any way of telling its the relay switch or do you just change it ??
 
This just happened to me. Luckily my car is on LPG and I can start it on LPG, although not recommended...

I have just tested the main relay, and it seems to be working: I put the multimeter leads in the wires that goes to the fuel pump, and the they make contact when you turn on the ignition for 2 seconds, which is the right behavior...
Then I shorted-fused those two wires, and it's supposed to hear the pump, but nothing happened..., which is a bad sign...

I just have to make another test on the fuel pump itself, but didn't had the chance to do it. The access to the fuel pump is through the trunk, you have to remove all the floor panels, and you see it, behind the rear seats.

The main relay is easily tested. Take at the following pdf, on page 6 you can see how the relay can be tested.

http://www.pdf-archive.com/2014/11/08/fuel-pump/

Oh, BTW, to access the main relay, lay down under the steering wheel and look up. It's a plastic box, attached to a metal bracket. The metal bracket is bolted somewhere near the steering column, it's near the brake pedal switch.
 
I have been looking for fuel pumps, and it's not an easy task. I found these ones, but they seem quite different from the original ones. I guess the original ones include the entire ***embly, including the level sensor. Any of you guys know if these pumps can be mounted in our cars? They say they are compatible, but I am not in the mood to adapt the pump the car...

http://www.rexbo.eu/japanparts/fuel-pump-pb997
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-WALBRO-FUEL-PUMP-GSS342-255-HONDA-ACCORD-Mk-VII-CG-CK-1-8-i-/161125029921?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item2583ccd821

I guess I will have to take out the fuel pump and take a look...
 
I found a few second hand ones for forty quid which is alot cheaper then 244 plus vat from the main dealer is the fuel oump easy to remove yourself
 
skhell said:
This just happened to me. Luckily my car is on LPG and I can start it on LPG, although not recommended...

I have just tested the main relay, and it seems to be working: I put the multimeter leads in the wires that goes to the fuel pump, and the they make contact when you turn on the ignition for 2 seconds, which is the right behavior...
Then I shorted-fused those two wires, and it's supposed to hear the pump, but nothing happened..., which is a bad sign...

I just have to make another test on the fuel pump itself, but didn't had the chance to do it. The access to the fuel pump is through the trunk, you have to remove all the floor panels, and you see it, behind the rear seats.

The main relay is easily tested. Take at the following pdf, on page 6 you can see how the relay can be tested.

http://www.pdf-archive.com/2014/11/08/fuel-pump/

Oh, BTW, to access the main relay, lay down under the steering wheel and look up. It's a plastic box, attached to a metal bracket. The metal bracket is bolted somewhere near the steering column, it's near the brake pedal switch.
Click to expand...
cheers for that fella i will have a look im hoping its the relay and not the pump
 
Accord636 said:
I found a few second hand ones for forty quid which is alot cheaper then 244 plus vat from the main dealer is the fuel oump easy to remove yourself
Click to expand...
Yeah, saw them on ebay.

I have been reading a bit about replacing the fuel pump(although not for our cars, but for other hondas), and it seems that replace only the fuel pump from the entire ***embly is not too hard.
I really have thought on buying a second hand, but I am going for this one:

http://www.rexbo.eu/japanparts/fuel-pump-pb997?c=100717

The pump ***embly is not that hard to replace, I think the hardest part is to remove the big plastic ring that holds the pump in place. Take a look at this guy, although it's a Mitsubishi, it's roughly the same thing:
http://youtu.be/ymg6R_NvnFM?t=6m50s
 
BTW, yesterday I tested tight at the fuel pump terminal: while running on LPG, I checked that there was battery voltage on the pump terminals, so it's definitely the fuel pump... This test can also be done by putting a jumper wire between pins 4 and 5 of the main relay.

Oh, be aware, that when you test the relay, use the pin numbers that are found in that pdf, and not the ones in the relay. They have different ping numbering...
 
Cheers fella will take a look at the vid and will decide what to do let us know how it goes and i hope it goes without a hitch
 
Today I managed to replace the fuel pump.
Removing it was not that hard, the big plastic ring was quite easy to remove. Then the pump was just pull out of the hole.

The pump has two pipes, one to send fuel to the engine and another to return the fuel back to the deposit. These are quite difficult to remove without damaging them. SInce I had no fuel pipe at home, I had to use some rubber hose I had laying around, just as a temporary solution. I have already bought some fuel pipe, tomorrow will disassemble it again and put a the proper hose in it.

Besides that, the all procedure was very smooth and the car is running great :)
 
Nice one did you get the pump you said you were going to get or a differnt one, just got paid this week so going to purchase the relay switch and go from there cheers for letting us know how it went its given me abit more confidence in doing it myself now
 
Sometimes the relay solder can crack, have a look here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viIZ8k60awY


The relay itself its quite expensive, I think this it here item 22
http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection_pfk.php?block_01=17S1T01&block_02=B__1311&block_03=2653

B__1311.jpg


22

PFKL570005

RELAY ***Y., MAIN

£370.08

(€421.89)

($614.33)

001
 
Accord636 said:
Nice one did you get the pump you said you were going to get or a differnt one, just got paid this week so going to purchase the relay switch and go from there cheers for letting us know how it went its given me abit more confidence in doing it myself now
Click to expand...
Yes, I did bought that fuel pump.
Before buying the relay, it's best to check if it's really working or not. If you follow the steps on the pdf that I posted before, it's quite easy to test

Then, if it really is the rellay, it could be as simple as cracked solder, as Andy already mentioned...
 
So my relay came today and ive just spent twenty mins trying to take the old one out jeaus they dont give you alot of room but i suppose those japs are small, the old one is still on has anybody got any tips to get the thing off any help appreciated
 
The best way is to remove the bolt that holds the relay in place. I used a combination spanner to undo the bolt. IIRC, its a 12mm bolt.
I remember that I removed the plug from the brake pedal switch, it made things easier.

BTW, yours have the steering wheel on the wrong side, it could be attached in a different location B)
 
Mines on the right hand side if you were sat facing the steering wheel, its such a tight space reminds me when i changed the master cylinder
 
I am not sure, but I think mine is also on the right side of the steering wheel axis.
 
Were you able to remove the plug from the old relay to test the new one?
 
Nice one, you should try and examine the solder on the old one to see if that was the cause.
 
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