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Disassembling EGR valve?

matsalka

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Location
Estonia
Car
CU2 K24Z3
Has anyone disassembled the valve itself? There are 4 torx screws for that, but the valve doesn't seem to go apart after losing the screws.
L6Zj7td.png

Image source: http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/722-intake-manifold-and-egr-cleaning-on-i-ctdi/?p=7613

The problem: valve is cleaned and shines like new, but still doesn't close fully. When looked in dark with a flashlight I can see the light coming through the valve. It closes when turning the piston around a bit, but will stay open again next time. Just as the piston rod was bent somehow.
 
Yep your internal plunger is damaged and the rod is bent.

Either replace it or blank off and remap.
 
I had this problem I tried to remove it to clean it but couldnt pull it off. Would only pull up about a inch and the was stuck is this my issue aswell.
 
Jon_G said:
How did it get bent???
I think I bent it when tried to open the valve itself for cleaning just as euroal told here. Now I have ~0,1-0,2mm cap there, but is it enough to cause problems on starting the engine and acceleration?
 
Yes, probably. Why not try blanking it off using a cut-up coke can to see if it runs better... unfortunately this will cause an ECU FAULT condition (it will sense that there is no EGR flow) but you should notice an improvement in the running IF valve leakage is causing a problem.

Edit - added the word FAULT
 
I could try this, but only if the blanking without remap won't make things worse.
And yes, I'm planning to map EGR off some time after going to local Honda dealer for full engine diagnostics.
 
The car will be in limp mode.
 
matsalka said:
I could try this, but only if the blanking without remap won't make things worse.
And yes, I'm planning to map EGR off some time after going to local Honda dealer for full engine diagnostics.
As Fahad says, this will cause limp mode BUT blanking it off will prove whether it's causing the problems you have.
 
Indeed, limp mode came after driving a while, but car felt a bit more responsive before that. I guess. I'll keep it blanked for now and try again tomorrow morning to see if cold start has improved.
I also talked to a mechanic and he thought that a barely visible gap in valve wouldn't affect performance. Can anyone confirm that complete airtightness isn't necessary?
 
Complete air tightness IS necessary... you really don't want exhaust gases polluting the cylinders under load conditions. plus a small leak will eventually erode the valve seat and so become a bigger leak.

I think that you already answered the question when you said that it runs better with the valve blanked off. Hopefully it'll start OK tomorrow and then you'll know for sure.
 
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