What's new

Engine Stutters @ Low Speed

Accordaz

Members
Messages
155
Reaction score
14
Location
Solway Coast
Car
Honda CRV 2.2 i-DTEC
Just got an issue with my petrol auto 2.4; it appears to stutter at low speeds at around 20 to 30mph, and soon clears fine, but wondering what could be causing the issue?
 
I get my petrol from Tesco and Morrisson's mainly; had this issue for around a week or so now, so do you reckon it could be water?
 
Not sure, maybe water, maybe diesel, maybe too much 'additive'? And, wherever you buy it, there's always a possibility of getting a contaminated tankful... does the onset of the problem seem to correspond to filling up?
 
not really thought about it until this happened, but due a fill up this weekend, so we'll see what happens; I don't put any additive in personally, only Tesco's improved mix!
 
If you're happy to, I would get the plugs out and have a look at them. You can find out a bit about the engine from seeing the condition of the plugs.
 
certainly something that came to mind, Pete, as I can't be sure the last time the car was fully serviced as I found out through investigations that my Service book has 2 recent false Service stamps in it!
 
Accordaz said:
I found out through investigations that my Service book has 2 recent false Service stamps in it!
I guess you discovered that by contacting the places that supposedly did the service ....if there are false stamps in the book then might be worth doing/getting all the alleged service work done again
 
Accordaz said:
not really thought about it until this happened, but due a fill up this weekend, so we'll see what happens; I don't put any additive in personally, only Tesco's improved mix!
I meant the additives put in by the fuel retailer.
 
thanks for the replies!

You're right, Brian, it's now on my big list to get done next.

Jon, I don't always use the retailer additives due to the extra expense, but if there's an offer, I'll go for it; is there a company that has the best additive mixture?
 
Accordaz said:
thanks for the replies!

You're right, Brian, it's now on my big list to get done next.

Jon, I don't always use the retailer additives due to the extra expense, but if there's an offer, I'll go for it; is there a company that has the best additive mixture?
The additives are already in the fuel when it comes out of the pump... all fuel retailers have to add it.

Sometimes mistakes are made and either the wrong additives are used, or the wrong quantities. A few years ago a fuel station near to where I lived put the diesel additive into the petrol they were selling and it caused a lot of problems due to the silicone-based additive damaging lambda sensors... it does happen!
 
Accordaz said:
ah, I'm talking about the improved fuels such as Tesco Momentum 99, Jon! :)
I'm talking about ALL fuels, including Tesco Momentum 99!

I'm not sure that the Accord ECU allows the timing to advance and take advantage of higher octane fuels?
 
I never buy supermarket fuel, always Shell for me as recommended by Honda at the time of production.
 
Jon_G said:
I'm not sure that the Accord ECU allows the timing to advance and take advantage of higher octane fuels?
I'm fairly sure it does. I always use 95 RON, but there are others who use 99 RON and say that it gives more power. AFAIK this is true of all modern performance engines, the ECU uses the knock sensor to adjust the ignition timing.
 
freddofrog said:
I'm fairly sure it does. I always use 95 RON, but there are others who use 99 RON and say that it gives more power. AFAIK this is true of all modern performance engines, the ECU uses the knock sensor to adjust the ignition timing.
I know, but I'm fairly sure (from comments made by K20 tuners on Civinfo) that the standard Honda ECU mapping does not allow the timing to advance beyond the limits set for the recommended 95 RON fuel... logically, why would it? Same problem on our MR2, meaning that use of 99 RON is merely wasteful.

But maybe the K24 Accord has an ECU map that will take advantage of higher octane fuel?
 
Jon_G said:
I know, but I'm fairly sure (from comments made by K20 tuners on Civinfo) that the standard Honda ECU mapping does not allow the timing to advance beyond the limits set for the recommended 95 RON fuel... logically, why would it? Same problem on our MR2, meaning that use of 99 RON is merely wasteful.

But maybe the K24 Accord has an ECU map that will take advantage of higher octane fuel?

maybe no knock sensor on the K20 ......definitely must be true for a toyota :lol:
 
thanks, Honda Guy and others; who else prefers filling up with Shell over supermarket fuel?
 
forgot to mention; spoke with an RAC guy today who thinks the issue could be to do with my auto box oil, and it's lack of oil maintenance over the years which has meant gunk may have built up in the gears, so best to get it changed!
 
I prefer to use Shell and try to make sure I do so as much as possible. But sometimes, convenience etc means I use a more local garage.
 
Accordaz said:
who else prefers filling up with Shell over supermarket fuel?

I've owned my car since January 2006 and I've done 80k miles in it, nearly always 95 RON from Tesco, thrashed it most of the time, never had any problems.
 
I never fill up with supermarket diesel. I always like a branded fuel. However as Steve said i cannot always gurantee shell garage. Sometimes BP or Esso. Never had a fuel issue in the 8 years ive had the car
 
If I use supermarket petrol it's always 99 Ron Tesco Fuel
 
well, had my auto gearbox oil changed, and engine oil (Castrol 10W/40) at my local Honda dealer = £140 inc, and it hasn't solved the shuddering issue; so I guess we'll have to look into the plugs now to see if one of them is playing up; from reading another post, they're quite tricky to change, am I correct?
 
Accordaz said:
well, had my auto gearbox oil changed, and engine oil (Castrol 10W/40) at my local Honda dealer = £140 inc, and it hasn't solved the shuddering issue; so I guess we'll have to look into the plugs now to see if one of them is playing up; from reading another post, they're quite tricky to change, am I correct?
was the other post talking about glow plugs ?
from my own experience (K24 engine), I wouldn't say difficult with the right tools. The coil-packs come off very easily, you then need a small long-reach plug-socket. I did that ages ago, before I got my Honda DVD, I'll look on the latter to see the dimensions.
 
well there isn't much info on the Honda DVD re taking out the spark plugs (probably because it's not difficult)

a couple of images, first shows the coil-packs, second shows a bit of info on the spark plugs

SEA3E00A26100034101KDAT00.jpg





0011.jpg




edit: forgot to say, Honda DVD says plugs should be changed
every 25k miles on K20
every 75k miles on K24
 
Plugs are easy enough to take out. Just be careful not to over tighten the bolts as they can round very easily. These are the bolts holding the cover and coil packs in
 
thanks for your replies; yes, they do look very different to the ones I used to take out years ago; can imagine they're expensive to replace? do you think a blocked air filter can cause the issue?
 
Accordaz said:
thanks for your replies; yes, they do look very different to the ones I used to take out years ago; can imagine they're expensive to replace?
like Aspirin, price depends where you buy them :lol:

Put ngk izfr6k11 or denso skj20dr-m11 into Google and you'll see quite a wide variation.
You can also get the dimensions of them.
Note that in the second image in #26 it says that you should not adjust the gaps on Iridium plugs.
So get them out and take a look at them ;)



Accordaz said:
do you think a blocked air filter can cause the issue?

I doubt it, but you might as well change that too. HH would be a good place (possibly ask them about the spark plugs too)
 
Top