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stiff clutch pedal

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AccordPower

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Hi Chaps- hope you can advise. (06 FR-V I-ctdi 156k)

What is causing my clutch pedal to get stiff after 20 mins of driving?? Most ppl complain of a spongy or soft clutch pedal, not stiff!

Got the car with 136k on the clock nearly 2 years ago and I don't know if the clutch has been replaced although the clutch feels solid.

Symptoms are:

1) After 20mins of driving clutch pedal requires more pressure to depress the pedal.
2) On the way up the biting point feels lower and sometimes higher.
3) On the way up the pedal feels like it has much more force pushing up.
4) A quick pump of the pedal makes everything go back to normal.
5) No clutch slip at all.

I have replaced both master + slave (nissen oem) and bled the hydraulics to death. I've ensured that the pedal is adjusted correctly and I greased the master cylinder rod and slave rod ball. The pedal housing and springs all look good.

Any diagnosis before I fork out big money on a new clutch? I can only guess it is the throw out bearing shaft needs greased or the pressure plate fingers are fatigued. Does anyone have experience of either? I find it difficult to believe that a 136k i-ctdi would still be on the original clutch.

Cheers!
 
Ah - it looks like a clutch out jobbie. It's probably a few things, yes on the clutch fatigue, but also the input shaft of the gearbox is probably dry of grease also. The release-back pressure comes from the pressure plate, so any stiffness here will result in a slow to rise pedal. The heat causes expansion (after 20 mins) which makes everything stiffer.

Seen this before, when a new PP is fitted and everything greased, you'll nearly put your foot through the floor when pressing the clutch!

If you got 136K on the original clutch you are doing well!
 
Clutch-out will be my last option , I'll wait for something to pop before I do that.

Been googling this problem, I know it's a different manufacturer but Alphas have this issue and owners have had success with dribbling Teflon lube down the back of the clutch fork to grease up the throw-out bearing shaft. http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-147-156-and-gt/239672-stiff-heavy-clutch-alfa-gt-jtdm.html

I've bought some dry teflon lube which starts of as runny but dries up after a bit. And yes I know the potential headache if this gets on the friction surface!
 
Well, you know yourself what's involved. It's always a bit risky lubricant that could drip onto the friction/pressure plate. TBH, the only way to do this right would be to strip out the clutch - but yes, it's a big job.

If you do go for it, get a micro-camera to see where you're at least applying it. However, be warned, there's very little space in which to lubricate the splines/throwout bearing.
 
I attached a long clear plastic hose to the end of the lube snout and fed it into the bell housing, this allowed me to direct the lube. Leaving the lube overnight to dry. Lets see if I have a clutch tomorrow!
 
Done some miles now. so far the stiff clutch pedal and varying biting point with difficulty selecting gears has not returned. Have not had any need to pump the clutch. This is well worth trying before you shell out on a new clutch. Too early to tell if it is a permanent fix but well worth a try.
 
Could you post some picture as diy by any chance, my 2004 Honda stream has similar problem after around 20 mins driving, clutch pedal needs more pressure too, slave cylinder start to has squeaky noise, and the noise also coming from the pedal as well pressing and release. Very annoyed when on traffic:-(
 
-Check for clutch fluid leaks where the clutch pedal connects to the clutch master cylinder and at the slave, also check for leaks at hydraulic line connections in the master/slave.
-Check your clutch fluid level
-Check the flex pipe portion of the line that runs from the slave cylinder to the master. The line is all metal apart from a short flexi rubber bit not far from the slave. Get someone to press the clutch pedal while you have your hand round it.If it bulges, replace it.
-replace clutch slave/master if they are leaking.
-Even if you have no leaks renew your clutch fluid and then bleed the system properly.
-grease the slave cylinder piston with some copper slip to minimise the noise.
-Lastly try my shenanigans, putting lubricant in the clutch area is pretty dumb thing to do. I exhausted all other options over a 10 month period before I tried this.


I'll try and get some pics
 
Many thanks for this speed reply, the car I bought few months ago and I did flashed the clutch fluid from the slave cylinders, the issue get little better, but not perfect cures, the squeaky noise still there, and yes, I want to do the lubricated part, please post some pictures, and what grease is best to to this job too. Ill check the flex hose you talking about, I hope I can fix this as it just make not very comfortable to drive this car after 20-30 mins driving.
 
Disclaimer:If any lube gets on the friction material it will cause your clutch to slip. I knew the risks and was ready to spend money on a new clutch if it all went wrong. Also do not to start the car afterwards. Let the lube dry and drip overnight, this will minimise any splashing of lube on the clutch.


Here's the lube I used
http://www.halfords.com/cycling/tools-maintenance/cleaning-lube/muc-off-dry-lube-bike-lubricant

It has a pointy nose that you can jam into some plastic tubing.

Now, the end of the slave cylinder contacts the clutch fork. You can see in this random video how the slave cylinder is pushing the clutch fork in and out. Yours will look a little different but the principle is the same on our cars.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0UKLYDGwwus



what you need to do is feed the tube down the clutch fork, you may have to remove a rubber cover around the fork . When the tube gets to the end of the fork squeeze in some lube. I pushed the tube behind the fork and in-front of the fork.


I used Fahad's pics from http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/96-review-clutch-install-accord-i-ctdi/ to help get an idea of what the end of the fork inside the gearbox looks like.

I was fairly generous with the lube putting about 50ml behind the fork and 50 ml in front.

good luck!
 
Few days ago I found a website for Acura RSX type s but I think the stream has same slave cylinder
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=774765
I'll try to do this when the weather improve a little.

On the clutch release fork CRF, you just lube the metal contacting the CSC pushrods and that is it right? I think I can remove the dust boot and piston pin to clean and grease on mine right?
 
you can need to lube 2 things

1-lube the bit where the slave contacts the fork to reduce noise. But that won't really help with the stiff clutch pedal.

2-to help wiyh stiff pedal uou need to buy plastic tubing. Buy the lube that I linked to and push the lube in one side of the tube. The other side of the tube needs to be fed down the clutch fork all the way until it meets the release bearing, then squeeze to let some lube out.
 
Many thank for your input, my issue of stiffness point is only happen on my foot reach to the bottom of the clutch and where the squeaky noise start to make,not as that serious and the car done about 83k in the clock, I'll try my high temp grease to the contact areas of CSC and CLF, may take the boot out and pushrob and clean it to see if it solve, wouldn't bother the inside fork where connect with the release bearing at the moment, but I'll try to move the fork by hand to see if it's move freely and smoothly. In order to grease inside by taking out the external fork boot out first, I believe we need to use high temp grease like brake grease etc, but we just need a hose to feed into that is problem. Is your problem hadn't come back anymore?
 
My problem seems sorted. We have 2 totally different issues though. My main issue was lack of grease on the release bearing shaft.

Your issue seems to be noise. Don't put any grease inside the bell housing
Just grease the point where the slave piston touches the fork.
 
I done this morning, I first start engine and foot press feels very light but I'll wait until I drive it over 30miles and see if stiffness and noise coming back..
 
Now, I just found out squeaky noise come back after 20miles driving, accord power, I've order the bike lube you recommend and going to collect it, one question, the plastic tube at top of that squeeze bottle, is it long enough to reach the release bearing? Or you use a hose attach to it? I'm going to lube it tonight and leave it dry overnight to see wha happen. I guessing the release fork has worn out as I moving it, it make a clicking noise. If that is the case, is it difficult to replace the fork without taking the clutch out?
 
I used a hose. Greasing the release bearing is not going to reduce noise though.

Before proceeding you should record the noise and let us all help you diagnose the exact source.

Don't go wacking grease in your clutch area without having some scientific reasoning. Its clear you don't have my issue and your car has half my miles.pls wait and don't rush in.
 
Hi mate, I confess I was a bit rush to trying to sort the squeaky noise out, at the end I collected the dry lube, went back home and found a small black rubber hose can attached to it quite well. A measure how far with the hose can go and cut it, squeeze out nearly half of bottle of it, also went back to clutch paddle squeeze some in the privet point where the master cylinder is, and without starting the engine as I know the lube is still wet and cause lube going everywhere in the gearbox, I just foot pump, start with a squeaky 1-2 times, then squeaky noise has gone.. Very magical I would have to said, and after last night, I test drive the car around the car park just make sure all gear is changeable as my wife will drive this to work, and there is no problem as usual, I don't know if I fully cure this as the car can't be driven more than 20 miles until weekend , so I will wait and see if the problem still there, but I'm positive the lube has lubricated the inside throughout the bearing with release fork also the input shaft, if that is the case, I'll be really happy, and appreciated this idea.
 
Good stuff mate! I'm happy it worked for you. really need to say thanks to the alpha owners club as they came up with this idea.

I've done a few hundred miles now and everything is good so far. Not going to call this a success until I've done a few thousand.
 
This kind of idea is incredibly change the feel of driving it, it used to be pressing harder at the bottom bit and where the squeaky noise coming from there, now, everything seems soften, so light to press down with no stiffness whatsoever, that makes a faster idle control, faster gear changing, and most of the time when sitting in traffic, light pressing make a big difference!
I knew my stream has some shudder when in the traffic and about to take off, I can feel car shudder, and I'm guessing clutch going to be due for new? But no slipping, everything seems get better and better every time I trying to solve it. It's defo worth for DIY for some job. Same money and you learn more about the car.
 
Hello, I have exactly same problem as "accordpower" had couple years ago. It have already changed clutch fluid, bleed system twice, greased clutch master cylinder and also salve clutch cylinder. Clutch pedal is still stiff. Clutch not slip at all, its smooth. Just its heavy, and after hard run I have to pump pedal twice to get into gear(sometimes), also my clutch is changing biting point after hard run. If i drive calm there is no problem, just stiff clutch pedal. Please any suggestions? PS. I am sorry for my englishm thanks
 
If the clutch is standard then a stiff clutch pedal can point towards the clutch pressure plate. This over time can degrade and cause a stiff pedal. You won’t find a slip until the clutch is going in most cases. I remember my clutch pedal was stiff in my Accord and after a clutch change the pedal was so light. Over time (years) it began to get heavier. Again no problems with operation.

Other things that can help is fluid change and check the condition and operation of the clutch master and slave cylinder
 
My clutch was already replaced by previous owner. Mine car have 284000 kilometers, but it is working flawlessly. Only "problem" is stiff clutch pedal.
 
As type r said pressure plate is warped that's why you have stiff pedal I fitted k tune clutch master and slave cylinder, clutch still stiff will be fitting new clutch with modified flywheel plate.

Sent from my LG-K100 using Tapatalk
 
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