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aveton gifford

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Cornwall
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01 2.0 Exec SE
Hi everyone,

I have just bought a 2001 Accord 2.0i VTEC Executive S.E. automatic for £900, which I am collecting tomorrow.

I took the car for a good test drive, and got it nice and warm ,and it drove very well, with all the electrics working nicely, the engine was great, although I think it may need a mexican tune up!

Anyway, I would like to ask you all if there is anything I should get done/do to the car to ensure it's longevity, I am well experienced in wielding the spanners, so most jobs are well within my expertise.

It is on 103,000 miles with full service history and a year M.O.T.

There was an advisory on this about corrosion on both front floors, is this a common problem?? and is it just a case of cleaning and treating the area to prevent any further problems?

Any help will be gratefully received :) :)
 
Welcome to the forum mate
 
Welcome along mate
 
Corrosion on front floor isnt common, one place where it corrodes is near firewall and wheel arch sort of area in drivers side, other corrosion is pot of luck IMO depending on where the car ha slived for most of its life, I havent seen a spot of ccorsion on mine yet, some surface rust in one or two places but otherwise clean but its spent all its life inland, whereas cars near coast or more wet areas youw ill find they tend be corroded more.

These cars are genereaklly bulletproof, most issues will be age related now as they are getting on a bit, I would check when the cambelts were changed, and make sure the auto gearbox is smooth without any slips or juddering.
 
These cars are genereaklly bulletproof, most issues will be age related now as they are getting on a bit, I would check when the cambelts were changed, and make sure the auto gearbox is smooth without any slips or juddering.





I will be getting the cambelts done at Honda soon, as for the gearbox, it changes very nicely, I have done around 100 miles since buying it and there has been no hint of slipping or juddering. I checked the fluid and it was a nice cherry red colour and didn't smell burned, so it appears somebody has been there before.

I will be doing a fluid change on the box soon as well, just to make sure, and I may fit a Magnfine filter to keep any muck that may be loosend from travelling around the box too much.

The car has already had some welding done around the subframe area according to my M.O.T. history check, so it may be a case of getting under the car and doing some preventative maintenance, at least this is the first time corrosion on the floor has been mentioned as an advisory, the other advisory, that has been on the last 3 M.O.T's is that the rear brake disc's are corroded and that the rear pads are getting low, so that's also on the to-do list!

Thanks for the help :)
 
Good stuff, sounds like a goodun, make sure you only use Honda ATF fluid for the geabox. As you say probably good to get the corrosion sorted whilst ist at its early stage, get in before it gets worse!
 
exec said:
Good stuff, sounds like a goodun, make sure you only use Honda ATF fluid for the geabox. As you say probably good to get the corrosion sorted whilst ist at its early stage, get in before it gets worse!
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I hope it is a goodun, I paid more attention to the auto box today, and definitely no juddering or slipping, it can be a bit jerky changing from 1st to 2nd for the first couple of times when it's cold, but it soon smooths out a bit, the changes are still noticeable, but I guess that's normal? it certainly works well in Tiptronic mode.

The only thing I have to compare it to is my S60 five speed auto, and that was a bit jerky before I changed the fluid, now it is a lot smoother, so hopefully a change on the Honda will sort it out.

The only other problems are the alarm siren not sounding, the headlights getting foggy, it needs an oil change and the air-con isn't working, but I believe this was caused by the pollen filter getting so badly blocked, if the air doesn't flow properly the system can overheat causing the gas to escape (so I have been told) so hopefully just a top up will be needed. :angry:

So this weekend will be spent sanding the headlights, changing the oil, and running my mop over the bodywork to get her looking shiny again, then I can post some pics :D
 
Cant give much mechanical advice on these but always felt they were really good cars. UK made too. I know they go on and on. The advice about ATF is sound as all the websites speak of it.

Got mine topped up recently.
 
Can't say I noticed my Dad's old auto changing gears, it was smooth and linear, always found Honda boxes like that. Perhaps it just needs new fluid.

The headlights, all you need is one of those 3M headlight restorer kit and a bit of elbow grease and the lights will be good as new.
 
Welcome.
 
The only other thing I'd add to the list is to have the rear brakes serviced, as the slider pins can corrode and seize the callipers. A spot of waxoil on the brake pipes won't go amiss either.

The suspension is surprisingly bulletproof. Mine's done 148k and still on original components.
 
Theunisse said:
The only other thing I'd add to the list is to have the rear brakes serviced, as the slider pins can corrode and seize the callipers. A spot of waxoil on the brake pipes won't go amiss either.

The suspension is surprisingly bulletproof. Mine's done 148k and still on original components.
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Yes im on original springs and shocks and they show no real sign of wear after 125k, they do like to eat through drop links and anti roll bar bushes every 40k or so but they aren't expensive.
 
On 100k you need a new fan belt (serpant belt) and water pump. Is what my manual says i have a cl9 exec 06
 
Just two points about the gearbox if I may, feel free to check my website for my credentials - www.wexfordtransmission.ie

1. The ATF fluid used in the accord autos is actually a lifetime oil, which despite being on the service routine does not need to be changed. However if you really feel the need to change it, bare in mind that at most, you will only remove 2/3rds of the old oil, as the rest will be held in the hubs, converter, valve body etc. Also, the stronger detergent in the new oil will put you at risk of dislodging any sizeable build up which was otherwise out the way. If any build up then gets into the valve body, it will most likely stick a valve. My advice would be to leave well alone, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it!".

2. Don't bother purchasing a replacement filter for the gearbox, as the filter is actually inside the gearbox behind all the gubbins, meaning you have to take the gearbox out and strip it down.

3. Your jerky 1st - 2nd changes when cold is due to worn accumulators. Very common issue on these boxes, which again is a gearbox out job to fix. A fluid change will not cure this.

So to summarise, leave the bloody gearbox alone and stop messing! ;)
 
Superman001 said:
Yes im on original springs and shocks and they show no real sign of wear after 125k, they do like to eat through drop links and anti roll bar bushes every 40k or so but they aren't expensive.
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Same here, although a lot less miles (84k), but mine has taken some beating, the amount of times I have driven over deep potholes and drains with missing covers, and once went over a massive speed hump (which I coundt see at night!) at 30mph, the suspension is really really strong, although mine doesn't feel as tight as it probably should, but that will be wear through age.
 
Superman001 said:
Yes im on original springs and shocks and they show no real sign of wear after 125k, they do like to eat through drop links and anti roll bar bushes every 40k or so but they aren't expensive.
Click to expand...
Anti-roll bar bushes - replaced an original with a cheapo from EuroCarParts, and two years later it was clunking like buggery so I've put the original one back on and it's much sweeter!
I think the genuine Honda ones might be well worth the money.
+1 with the drop links though - very delicate and prone to corrosion
 
BlueVTEC said:
Just two points about the gearbox if I may, feel free to check my website for my credentials - www.wexfordtransmission.ie

1. The ATF fluid used in the accord autos is actually a lifetime oil, which despite being on the service routine does not need to be changed. However if you really feel the need to change it, bare in mind that at most, you will only remove 2/3rds of the old oil, as the rest will be held in the hubs, converter, valve body etc. Also, the stronger detergent in the new oil will put you at risk of dislodging any sizeable build up which was otherwise out the way. If any build up then gets into the valve body, it will most likely stick a valve. My advice would be to leave well alone, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it!".

2. Don't bother purchasing a replacement filter for the gearbox, as the filter is actually inside the gearbox behind all the gubbins, meaning you have to take the gearbox out and strip it down.

3. Your jerky 1st - 2nd changes when cold is due to worn accumulators. Very common issue on these boxes, which again is a gearbox out job to fix. A fluid change will not cure this.

So to summarise, leave the ****** gearbox alone and stop messing! ;)
Click to expand...

Cheers for that mate, I will leave it alone!! I was only going to change the fluid because it made such a huge difference to the Aisin box in my S60, that and the software upgrade has made it run like new again :)
The fluid in the Honda doesn't actually look that bad, it is still quite red and it doesn't smell burnt.
 
Progress is being made on the car, had the cambelts, water pump and both drive belts changed at work, with genuine parts, for £300, and while it was in the air I got a good look underneath, the corrosion at the front is only surface rust, which was a relief, although there has been a patch welded (a very poor job done too!) where the passenger side rear subframe mounts. The rear brake pipes and flexi's have been replaced, so I will be protecting them soon.

Checked out the aircon, it needs a new condenser due to it leaking, but I tested the compressor and it works fine, so that's a job for when the warmer weather arrives, and I will be fitting some kind of protection into the lower grill in the front bumper to protect the new condenser.

The next job is fitting the iO Talk 2 bluetooth kit and then sorting the rear brakes, which are rusty and old looking, and despite them working fine, the rusty look bothers me (sad I know!)

Apart from that, the wife has been driving it around and loves it, so hopefully if I take care of it, it will be around for a long time (although I keep worrying about the gearbox giving up the ghost!!)
 
Whoops, tell a lie, the belts and everything were actually £314!

The wife often tells me I round the cost of things down!! :blush:
 
aveton gifford said:
I hope it is a goodun, I paid more attention to the auto box today, and definitely no juddering or slipping, it can be a bit jerky changing from 1st to 2nd for the first couple of times when it's cold, but it soon smooths out a bit, the changes are still noticeable, but I guess that's normal? it certainly works well in Tiptronic mode.
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Hi mate. Ur gearbox is normal. Have same car like u and manual said gearbox will let go engine in higher revs and u will notice more "kicky" changing gears to help engine and gearbox heat faster. Ive never heard of some A6G gearbox being broken or repaired (if used by human not monkey ofc). Mine has sweet cherrish color. I saw somewhere on internet that gearbox oil should be strong red but transparent so u will be able to read text tru it. But as far u see crosses on dipstick u dont need to pour it on piece of paper :D

Edit: U have D4 check light if something goes wrong. It should lights on when turning key and come off together with check engine light. If some problem comes with it than D4 will flash no matter what gear u put (or stays on when in R or N or other gear). Mine wasnt even on so i had to remove dash and change tiny led which was kinda pain in ***.
 
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