apintofmild
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Pretty straight forward job really, but it's been a while since I've written a DIY and it might just tip the confidence balance for someone thinking of giving it a go for the first time. This is a facelift tourer, but I imagine the pre-facelift and saloon diesels are pretty similar.
Go for a short run out to warm the engine.
Apply the handbrake hard. Chock the rear wheels and raise the car. Place axle stands somewhere they're not going to move, and that you can reach from the side of the car without venturing underneath when only supported by the jack.
Using a cross point screwdriver remove the 7 (one of mine was missing) screws holding the aluminium under-tray in place.
You'll need a 17mm socket to undo the sump plug. It's signposted so you can't really go wrong!
If you're new to this, 0w30 oil has the constancy of single cream. It's very runny, so be sure to catch it in something at least 18" long or you'll have it all over the floor. An old washing up bowl is the right shape, not too tall to fit under the car and holds about 10 litres when brimmed. It's a good idea to lay out a large flattened cardboard box under catch any splashes.
Leave the oil to drain and open the bonnet to attend to the filter. I'd recommend investing in a 76mm 14 flat filter tool. They're only a few quid from eBay etc, and won't slip off like a strap or cause any damage like a chain. For a genuine tool try Googling 04151-RBD-305. The same one fits the i-CTDi too.
I've not seen my low range torque wrench since I leant it a while back (I never learn!) so I marked the plastic cap and alloy body of the oil filter ***embly with a scriber to give me an idea where to re-tighten to when the new filter was fitted. Unscrew the filter top, and have rags on hand to deal with any splashes of oil as the filter is withdrawn. Once removed, a fresh trickle of oil will be heard running into the washing up bowl beneath.
Have an old newspaper on the bench ready to work on the filter. The paper filter element just pulls off. There are three O-rings to replace. Slip a blunt screwdriver behind to remove them, taking care not to scratch the shaft beneath the O-ring, as this is where it seals. A smear of engine oil will help the new ones seat properly.
Reinstall the filter ***embly and tighten to 25Nm, or to the scribed line. It only really needs nipping up as the seal is on the o-ring and won't improve by making it tighter than necessary.
Fit a new sealing washer to the sump plug and re-fit it in the bottom of the engine, tightening to no more than 39Nm. Personally I think a little less is adequate and there's less of a risk of stripping the threads in the sump.
Time to refill with clean oil. Capacities are as follows:
Just an oil change: 5.2L
Oil change including filter: 5.5L
After complete engine strip down: 6.5L
To maximise the life of your DPF, read the label and make sure its low SAPS. I'm using Optima LSH 0w30 Fully Synthetic Low Saps from Lubetech.
Add the first couple of litres and then check under the car than there are no leaks.
If all is well refit the under-tray. I added a little grease to the retaining screws as they'll be a pain to get out if they seize or the screwdriver slot rounds off. Drop the car off the axle stands (the car should be level to read the dipstick) and continue to add oil up about 5 litres. Keep an eye on the dipstick. Once you're half way between min and max re-fit the filler cap and start the engine to circulate the oil. Switch off and allow the oil to run back into the sump. Top up as required after 5 minutes, keeping the level below max. The final level should be set with the engine warm and the car on level ground. Keep an eye on the dipstick for the first few miles driven to ensure there isn't a leak you've missed.
All that remains is to dispose of your old oil responsibly and put the kettle on.
Go for a short run out to warm the engine.
Apply the handbrake hard. Chock the rear wheels and raise the car. Place axle stands somewhere they're not going to move, and that you can reach from the side of the car without venturing underneath when only supported by the jack.
Using a cross point screwdriver remove the 7 (one of mine was missing) screws holding the aluminium under-tray in place.
You'll need a 17mm socket to undo the sump plug. It's signposted so you can't really go wrong!
If you're new to this, 0w30 oil has the constancy of single cream. It's very runny, so be sure to catch it in something at least 18" long or you'll have it all over the floor. An old washing up bowl is the right shape, not too tall to fit under the car and holds about 10 litres when brimmed. It's a good idea to lay out a large flattened cardboard box under catch any splashes.
Leave the oil to drain and open the bonnet to attend to the filter. I'd recommend investing in a 76mm 14 flat filter tool. They're only a few quid from eBay etc, and won't slip off like a strap or cause any damage like a chain. For a genuine tool try Googling 04151-RBD-305. The same one fits the i-CTDi too.
I've not seen my low range torque wrench since I leant it a while back (I never learn!) so I marked the plastic cap and alloy body of the oil filter ***embly with a scriber to give me an idea where to re-tighten to when the new filter was fitted. Unscrew the filter top, and have rags on hand to deal with any splashes of oil as the filter is withdrawn. Once removed, a fresh trickle of oil will be heard running into the washing up bowl beneath.
Have an old newspaper on the bench ready to work on the filter. The paper filter element just pulls off. There are three O-rings to replace. Slip a blunt screwdriver behind to remove them, taking care not to scratch the shaft beneath the O-ring, as this is where it seals. A smear of engine oil will help the new ones seat properly.
Reinstall the filter ***embly and tighten to 25Nm, or to the scribed line. It only really needs nipping up as the seal is on the o-ring and won't improve by making it tighter than necessary.
Fit a new sealing washer to the sump plug and re-fit it in the bottom of the engine, tightening to no more than 39Nm. Personally I think a little less is adequate and there's less of a risk of stripping the threads in the sump.
Time to refill with clean oil. Capacities are as follows:
Just an oil change: 5.2L
Oil change including filter: 5.5L
After complete engine strip down: 6.5L
To maximise the life of your DPF, read the label and make sure its low SAPS. I'm using Optima LSH 0w30 Fully Synthetic Low Saps from Lubetech.
Add the first couple of litres and then check under the car than there are no leaks.
If all is well refit the under-tray. I added a little grease to the retaining screws as they'll be a pain to get out if they seize or the screwdriver slot rounds off. Drop the car off the axle stands (the car should be level to read the dipstick) and continue to add oil up about 5 litres. Keep an eye on the dipstick. Once you're half way between min and max re-fit the filler cap and start the engine to circulate the oil. Switch off and allow the oil to run back into the sump. Top up as required after 5 minutes, keeping the level below max. The final level should be set with the engine warm and the car on level ground. Keep an eye on the dipstick for the first few miles driven to ensure there isn't a leak you've missed.
All that remains is to dispose of your old oil responsibly and put the kettle on.
