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P1384 manufacturer control

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2.2I-CTDI
Hey guys recently while driving i got engine light ,diagnostic showed ,,glow plug circuit open" replaced all glow plugs and fuel filter cleaned codes and looks like i cured it for like 2 weeks was fine now i get engine light again ,,P1384 Manufacturer control" when car warms up i can clean code and it doesnt come back but everytime i start car i get that code. Any opinions whats wrong? thanks

Car - 2005 honda accord 7gen pre-facelift i-ctdi
 
I'm guessing you haven't used genuine Honda glow plugs? If so, that will be the most likely cause. These cars are very sensitive over genuine parts, especially the glow plugs and fuel filter.
 
No i used some cheap ones from ebay . Ok my scanner give little bit more info it says:
DTCFRZF P1384
Load pct 0.0
etc 27
MAP 100
IAI 27
egr ptc 4.7
egr err 0.00.

Is that saying something to anyone? Or i should start buying new glow plugs and fuel filter ( **** glow plugs are expensive £20 for 1) :(
 
You need to buy genuine parts and replace them. It's possibly also the relay but because it's not happening once the car is warm my money is on the plugs themselves.
 
As Fahad says why????? I'm not sure what you are trying to achieve bleeding this. Firstly it's not possible to bleed it and secondly why do you think you need to bleed it?
 
Well few months ago i have taken throttle away clean it and put it back and car doesnt start after that .i saw that that there are on the selenoid valve that thing for bleeding covered.Thats why im intresting.
 
I've no idea what you're talking about.. Maybe post a picture to explain what component you're referring to
 
From your link it looks like that is the imrc solenoid valve. There is no bleed for it. I'm confused as well, the first post says it runs and your last post says it doesn't. So does it run?
 
Car started after i pressed few times on throtlle to make air go from that pipe. its just off topic question intresting how to bleed it because its there for a reason:)
So just take throttle clean put it back and car should start in first time or it should struggle for the first few times to let air get out or something?

Thank you for your time to explaining me:)
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No what's more likely is that your intake flap is sticking and when you messed with it, you freed it up. most likely your egr is also sticking and your inlet manifold is blocked.

Consider blanking the egr and cleaning out the intake manifold. You will need to remap the ecu for which I can provide you a quote if you drop me a line.
 
Does the blanking egr wont hurt engine? i read some topics that blank egr is no good for engine?
 
They only throw up a light when they are badly blocked and engine simply cannot breathe anymore.

Egr has no benefit for your engine.
 
Ok update: replaced glow plugs and fuel filter no more engine light but car still very slow until turbo kicks in.Cleaning intake manifold do i need to take it off or is there are any spray that can be used to clean it itself? and egr blanking buy egr blanking plate or it will be done after remap? thanks
 
From your picture it looks like the solenoid valve has been broken. Where you have circled there should be a small black cylinder on it. It's a one way valve filter.
 
Replied to your PM

Wookie is right about the solenoid actuator, you need to replace that
 
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