Menu
What's new
By:
Advanced search...

Rear wheel bearing change - Gen 7 Tourer

G

Goodluckmonkey

TA Friends
Messages
1,621
Reaction score
411
Location
Kent
Car
CN2
Thought I'd do another report as its such a simple one. No need to go to the garage for this one as it's nowhere near as scary as doing a front bearing for someone with limited experience.

You don't need much in the way of tools either.

Axle stand
Mallet
14mm socket / spanner
Philips screwdriver
36mm socket and breaker bar
Sacrificial old flat-head screwdriver. (Strike-through is best)

I bought an SNR hub ***embly from euro car parts, as they appear well made, and use the same NTN bearing that Honda install in the factory.

1) Get it in the air, wheel off, and supported on an axle stand.


2) Remove caliper (2x 14mm headed bolts at rear) slide caliper out and tuck it behind the disc.


3) undo the two Philips head screws retaining the disc and remove the brake disc. You may need to tickle it with a mallet to remove it as the handbrake shoes can catch. Best to tap the drum portion of the disc to do this as you give it a wiggle.

4) remove the nut cover (use a flat head screwdriver)
unstake the hub nut with your manky old screwdriver.
 
5) undo the hub nut - these have a normal right-handed thread on both sides, so go anti-clockwise as you'd expect.
The hub ***embly just slides right off.


6) slide on new hub ***embly - this may need a tickle with the mallet.

7) do up hub nut (to appropriate torque setting, I believe this is 185Nm, but I don't have a torque wrench that big - I've always done mine by feel)

- the alternative redneck method is to weigh yourself, do the maths and stand on your breaker bar the correct distance from the socket.

Re-stake the nut.



8) refit nut cover and disc. Checking everything spins freely.

9) re-install caliper (copper slip the bolts), fit wheel, have a cuppa.
 
Great writeup, I would say that if you do stand on your breaker bar try and use an axle stand or similar to support it where it pivots.
If you don't the head can sometimes slip off and round the nut.
 
You wouldn't have the product code for Euro Car Parts would you? Just looked and they have 2, one says its for the Saloon so i'm ***uming the other is for the estate! Product code is - 628601200 (£75 each).
 
That's the one!

If you leave it in your basket 2 days they'll send you a discount code for 5% off.
 
Nice work, but a couple of comments ...

1. You're a very naughty boy suggesting the use of a mallet to get the drum/disc off. If the shoes are binding too much (with handbrake off of course), the shoes will start to be pulled off with the drum, which wrecks the locator pins (guess how I know this). You should remove the rubber bung and turn the star adjuster to slacken the shoes. Then when the drum/disc goes back, you have to turn the star adjuster back while rotating the wheel until it almost starts to bind.

2. I've been meaning to replace the rear bearings on my Tourer too (I bought the bearings aaaaaaages ago), but I ***umed that there would be grease in there ?
 
I don't mean bang the disc off, I mean to rattle the shoes by hitting the drum, so you can pull the disc off, if you see what I mean. Try to hammer the disc off, and you may damage something.

Shouldn't be any real cause to have a wear lip, but if you do, then slacking the adjuster is a good idea, although how you get to it may be tough, as the top needs to come back towards you (***uming the adjusters are in the right way round), and doing that through the adjusting hole is nigh-on impossible as the spring gets in the way of your screwdriver.
(Unless of course, there's a grommet in the back plate I haven't spotted, or you sacrifice a screwdriver to make a special tool)

The bearings are essentially a sealed unit, but can be taken apart and regreased should you so desire.

I had fitted a cheap pattern one (comline) before, that I bought from eBay, but it went notchy within 5 miles on the test drive at under 40mph.
No evidence of heat, and plenty of grease in it too. My 9.5" summer wheels were probably too much for the recycled Chinese beer cans it was made from.

You definitely get what you pay for.
 
Bounder said:
Great writeup, I would say that if you do stand on your breaker bar try and use an axle stand or similar to support it where it pivots.
If you don't the head can sometimes slip off and round the nut.
Click to expand...
Great advice if you're using a 12-point socket, or can't get the bar in perpendicular to the stub axle, yes. Short extension bar and an axle stand is great for stability.

- As is putting a jack under the hub ***embly.

I use a 3/4" drive bar with a shallow Sealey 6-point impact socket that drives off the flats, and fortunately the bar knuckle's really short, so it doesn't try and slip due to driving too far outboard of the nut.
 
Goodluckmonkey said:
I don't mean bang the disc off, I mean to rattle the shoes by hitting the drum, so you can pull the disc off, if you see what I mean. Try to hammer the disc off, and you may damage something.

Shouldn't be any real cause to have a wear lip, but if you do, then slacking the adjuster is a good idea, although how you get to it may be tough, as the top needs to come back towards you (***uming the adjusters are in the right way round), and doing that through the adjusting hole is nigh-on impossible as the spring gets in the way of your screwdriver.
(Unless of course, there's a grommet in the back plate I haven't spotted, or you sacrifice a screwdriver to make a special tool)

The bearings are essentially a sealed unit, but can be taken apart and regreased should you so desire.

I had fitted a cheap pattern one (comline) before, that I bought from eBay, but it went notchy within 5 miles on the test drive at under 40mph.
No evidence of heat, and plenty of grease in it too. My 9.5" summer wheels were probably too much for the recycled Chinese beer cans it was made from.

You definitely get what you pay for.
Click to expand...
ahhh ok, I thought you meant "keep hammering from behind until it comes off" ....from experience I know that does not work :blush: because when I did use the star adjuster to be able to get the drum off, there was indeed a considerable lip. There is a bung/grommet in the drum, which pulls out very easily. Then with drum rotated so that the hole (where the bung/grommet was) is at the bottom, you can just about see the star adjuster in there. As you say, there is a spring across the adjuster, but I think it's there to keep the adjuster in position. It is fairly easy to turn the adjuster with two small screwdrivers, one to pull the spring out of the way, the other to turn the adjuster. But it can be a lot of turns before you realise you've turned it the wrong way :mad:

The pair of bearings that I have, came from Holdcroft some time ago (in years), just been putting this job off, because I've had those disc/drums off before and there was nothing enjoyable in doing it. The rear brakes on the Tourer are an abomination :angry: Honda make good engines, but the brakes are clearly an "imported" set-up from some cheap and poxy brake design-house.
 
Another issue is rusting rear back plates - £90 each for OEM replacements plus a possible pig of a job getting the old ones off.
 
To be fair to Honda, they're no better or worse than any drum in disc type setup.

Dealing with drums is crap, but when the handbrake was operated by

Still better than the 5th gen accord I had. The cams in the calipers that operated the handbrake would wear out, then you'd have no handbrake efficiency, no matter how well adjusted at the lever. The only solution was new calipers.
 
Freddofrog, you can see the adjuster hole at the bottom of my first pic (Ironically the right place although I didn't touch them)
 
Ahhh there's supposed to be a rubber bung in that there hole.

If the disc/drum can be persuaded to come off without having to change the adjusters then it's a lot easier, but if it won't come off, those sneaky little adjusters will require an investment of some zen time :blink:
 
Agreed.

Admittedly I didn't bother putting the bungs in when I replace the discs as the back of the wheel seals them off against road crud.
 
Goodluckmonkey said:
Admittedly I didn't bother putting the bungs in when I replace the discs as the back of the wheel seals them off against road crud.
Click to expand...
these were in the disc on my car, I think they're factory fitted

71f2u36L7NL._SL1500_.jpg
 
Cheers Fahad.

May as well share the wealth as this place provided loads of information when I did my engine swap.

Still need to do a turbo clean tutorial with the one I have sat on the bench, but my garage looks like a bomb site at the moment.

Freddo - think those are OE Vauxhall - you've been had.
 
Great guide mate :)

I have a couple of questions:

How has the bearing been since you fitted it, I'm getting the same one? Did you get a price from Honda for an OEM one?

How did you undo/tighten the hub nut without the weight of the wheel to stop it turning?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top