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MPG Trouble

Cheddars

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Location
Lincoln
Car
2009 Astra Twintop
Hia guys,

I haven't had the car long but I have noticed my Accord is really guzzling fuel - it is doing around 23mpg from mixed driving. I'm still adjusting to driving this car but to be honest I was expecting at least 30mpg. I do roughly the same trips as my old 2.2 Astra and that achieved around 30 so don't think my driving is so blame :(

The car is a 1999 Accord 2.0 Automatic, any suggestions appreciated :)
 
Has it been regularly serviced?
 
23mpg! wow that quite low.

I have the 2.0 Manual and i get 35 mpg from mixed driving with regular gas and 38 mpg on Shell V Power.

Check sparkplugs and wires and check both O2 sensores to see if they are working as they should.
 
jsmith89 said:
I get 40-42 mpg with vpower. Mines a 1.8.
Always nice to get over 40 MPG. But the difference between the 2.0 and 1.8 is not as big as i would have thought. :)
 
Cheers guys, I bought it from a Merc dealer with 6 month warranty - think I'll make some use out of it
 
Cheers Jsmith, I will be doing just that. Rang the dealership this morning and they basically don't want to know
 
Same old story with dealers mate. Clean the sensors and maybe try the egr plate clean process. I did and it made a world of difference. Change all the filters, use a high quality correct oil and put some decent spark plugs in. Check the ignition leads, dizzy cap and the rotor arm also.
 
Cheddars said:
Cheers Jsmith, I will be doing just that. Rang the dealership this morning and they basically don't want to know
look on the bright side, they've saved you spending a fortune on their expensive labour rates

jsmith89 said:
Clean the sensors and maybe try the egr plate clean process. I did and it made a world of difference. Change all the filters, use a high quality correct oil and put some decent spark plugs in. Check the ignition leads, dizzy cap and the rotor arm also.
a good list
 
Check for binding brakes - rears are common if you have rear discs. Callipers tend to stick.
jack up each corner and ensure all wheels rotate freely

Also some tyres are known to cause high rolling resistance too. Are they cheap tyres?
 
Cheers guys, greatly appreciated :D

The tyres are Bridgestones, so not the best, but not bad either. Service history isn't great, but it's had the same owner since new so must have been looked after. I'll check all brakes and give her a good service, thanks again!
 
Changed the oil, filter, spark plugs and air filter on weekend - certainly more perky to drive but haven't checked mpg since last fill up. Also checked each corner for binding brakes, all have free movement.

Cheers Exec - If it's still poor after a couple more fill ups then I'll look at changing the o2 sensor :)
 
Still poor mpg after changing the o2 sensors :(

Where abouts should the temp guage sit when warm? - It currently reads below half way / about 3rd of the way up
 
Thought I was getting there :(

Last fill up was 28mpg, not too bad but could be better. But for the past couple of days the temperature gauage hasn't 't really moved off it's stop - not sure if it is coincidence to the above post or the thermostat has just gone
 
:huh:I have the same car although a 2001 and I get similar results. I do like the sound of the vtec though
 
Tried some redex and a good thrash, mpg has increased to 35mpg on the same journeys. Very happy but confused at the same time ^_^

Temp guage seems to be working too, guess it just wanted a run
 
We used to have a older gent come in to our garage with his ancient Volvo 740 2.0l GLE Estate. Every few months he'd have power delivery and fuel efficiency issues and at every MOT it would fail it's emissions test. All we had to do to fix it was trash the backside off of it! That cleared it all out and the Problem was always solved lol
 
Just thought I would update

MPG has gone down again, last fill up was 22mpg. No difference in the way I drive, always to work and back, which are mixed roads. No 'foot to the floor' action, just old man style.

Had a look at the dizzy cap and rotor arm, both look worn. The leads also have a dated stamp of 1999 - what effect would this have as it has just ticked onto 105,000 miles? - Proberly a dumb question but this is my first car that doesn't have a coilpack.
 
worn ht leads = poorer sparking, so changing them would improve performance and efficiency.
 
Cheers Exec, greatly appreciated - I've ordered a new dizzy cap, rotor arm and leads :)
 
Replaced the dizzy cap, rotor arm and leads - no idea if it's helped the fuel issue but now it doesn't half shift for a big car :D
 
Guys,
Did you use OEM parts or generic branded ones? I'm always reading how these cars need OEM stuff, but I've seen a Blueprint dizzy cap and rotor on 'Mister Auto' for about £35. I've also in the past put non OEM HT leads on to no detriment (I think!)
 
Fine to use non OEM, they won't last as long as OEM ones or be as good a quality.
 
superste said:
Guys,
Did you use OEM parts or generic branded ones? I'm always reading how these cars need OEM stuff, but I've seen a Blueprint dizzy cap and rotor on 'Mister Auto' for about £35. I've also in the past put non OEM HT leads on to no detriment (I think!)
I used copy parts from carparts4less as my Accord was originally bought as a cheap replacement but now wish I went oem - since the stuff I took off the car was there since new so had lasted almost 17 years, all be it with reduced power, but it still ran smoothly. In all honesty I think any replacement would have benefitted my car ^_^
 
I think if changing things like clutches etc then definitely OEM as you want to do the job once.
Things like dizzy caps/leads etc are easy to reach areas and stuff that can be done yourself easily. SO buying non oem stuff isnt a great loss or hassle.
Genuine OEM stuff is always advised but peoples budgets are different.

Genuine Items for the diesels are a must. i.e. fuel filter. Using non genuine stuff here will result in poor running and fault codes being displayed.
 
accord_n22 said:
I think if changing things like clutches etc then definitely OEM as you want to do the job once.
Things like dizzy caps/leads etc are easy to reach areas and stuff that can be done yourself easily. SO buying non oem stuff isnt a great loss or hassle.
Genuine OEM stuff is always advised but peoples budgets are different.

Genuine Items for the diesels are a must. i.e. fuel filter. Using non genuine stuff here will result in poor running and fault codes being displayed.
I definitely agree with the oem parts for diesels! There's not a Ford or Vauxhall on the planet that will run properly with a patten fuel filter!

With regards to the parts for the Accord. I replaced all service parts with ADL Blueprint parts. Inc. Dizzy cap, rotor arm, pollen filter, air filter, oil filter and the only thing not Blueprint are the ignition leads which are Cambaire professional silicone. My old tank runs like a dream!

Oil grade and quality have a big impact also! I was running semi 10w40 as the book suggests. But from the last quaterly service I did I changed it to Shell Helix Ultra Professional 5w40 fully synthetic. That really boosted my mpg and the enhanced the entire drive.

I average 38mpg and if I'm mega light on the throttle 42mpg. Get around 450 miles to a tank. Commuting on dual carriageways to work.
 
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