Alarm going of

Have a 2007 i-ctdi 2.2 diesel, the alarm has just gone of in the drive. Found the alarm sounds for so long then stops and then sounds again. If I open the drivers door in a period of quite the alarm will go of every time I can open a passengers door in this time and it won't sound, tried both my key fobs the central locking works OK, the locking comes of but as soon as I open the door the alarm sounds??

Any advice anyone please. ( the neighbours are getting restless)

Regards

You probably have both the dreaded bluetooth/HFT problem that drains the car battery, plus the dreaded ageing battery pack in the siren.

Best thing to do is to start the engine (which will recharge the car battery), and leave the car running with the doors shut for about 20 minutes so that the siren battery also recharges. Then lock and unlock the car several times from outside the car using the key fob

read right through this thread http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/21098-alarm-keeps-going-off-but-no-indicators-flashing-no-immobiliser/

Freddofrog,

Thank you very much for the thread, the alarm has stopped now and been quiet for a couple of hours thankfully, so tomorrow I will check the car battery, if that's OK I will disconnect the Alarm Module as per the thread and check the batteries in that, I'm less concerned with the functionality of the siren so long as the immobiliser and the central locking works OK.

Thanks again a great help.

Regards Patcaff

Well checked the car battery and little low but still starting the engine OK, so started on removing the siren module, by the time that was out (going off when I disconnected it, I'm sure my hearing will come back eventually) checked the car battery again and find it 9.5volts and that's with just the internal door lights on so looks like it was the battery along, so new battery fitted and I will replace the siren batteries as well.

Thanks again for the advice

Regards Patcaff

Keep an eye on the main car battery, if the volts keep on dropping when the engine has been off for a couple of days then it's time to remove the bluetooth/HFT module.

It's very easy to remove ---> http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/1383-hft/?p=19836 (after removing it, best place for it is in the bin)

Fitted a new battery beginning of May and it was fine. The beginning of this week I left the car for a couple of days without use and as you suggested might happen, the battery drained. I have tried charging the battery with my mains battery charger, it sort of charges but not quite .ie. after 7 hours it was still charging at 1.2 amps with the volts at about 12.7volts. Just rang the shop and they will check the battery for me next week, it will just about start the car. Now I checked the discharge current with the battery connected to the car and it was approx 230mA with all doors shut and no ignition key in, is this normal?? the reason I ask is because my Bluetooth/HFT module works perfectly and I would like to keep it if possible. So can they still discharge your battery quickly even if they appear to work OK.

I suppose there will always be some discharge current when a car is switched off, alarm system, radio memory etc but what would be normal, any ideas??

Any advice would be appreciated.

Patcaff

It depends how and where you're measuring the current.
With all the doors and bonnet shut and with the alarm on, the current drain is 24 mA which is 0.024 Amps.

The best way to measure this is as follows.

1. disconnect the chassis cable from the -ve terminal of the car battery

2. connect one jump lead to the -ve terminal of the car battery and the other jump lead to the chassis cable


3. drape the jump leads over the plastic cover over the grill



4. shut the bonnet fully (obviously make sure that the cables do not squeeze the headlight)


5. connect the two jump leads together outside the car



6. with all the doors and bonnet shut, lock the car so that the alarm is set


7. with the meter set to measure current on its most sensitive setting, connect the meter onto the jump leads as shown (do not let the jump leads become disconnected or the alarm will go off, if you need to adjust the way you are making the connections, unset the alarm, open a car door, and go back to 5)



8. open the jump leads as shown (do not let the meter become out-of-circuit or the alarm will go off), you will now see the current drain (the reading in this picture is not with the doors shut and alarm on)




9. reconnect the jump leads (with meter still in-circuit) before you try to unlock the car i.e. connect as in 7 before you try to unlock the car. Then unlock the car and open the bonnet.


.

freddofrog,

Understand exactly what you mean, I checked the current in series with the battery but the alarm was not set and the bonnet was open. So will try to get that done tomorrow all being well and will let you the if the reading is substantially different.

Again put the car battery on charge this afternoon for 3 hours and still not charging fully but used the car later on and it performed OK?? ( rather hoping it is the battery at fault and not the Bluetooth/HFT but with your reading I have something to work with now).

Many Thanks

Patcaffr

Finally was able to do the test as you described, and the results were not very different than the results I had with the Alarm not set and the bonnet open. The discharge current was approx 240mA, so disconnected the HFT Module and like you the discharge current reduced to about 23/24 mA so left it disconnected for now. When you did your test did you have your HFT Module connected? do you know what the normal discharge current would be with a fully functional HFT/Bluetooth Module.

Regards patcaff

My car never had an HFT module.

The extra 200 mA is caused when the HFT goes faulty. 200 mA = 4.8 Ah per day, 10 days = 48 Ah, so there won't be enough enrgy left in the battery to start the car.

There are a few threads on here where people attempted various repairs, but generally their repairs never worked or the fault kept recurring.

Just one idea that I've just thought of, find the power lead in the wires to the socket and fit a switch in the wire, otherwise best place for the module is the bin.

Yes my maths agree with yours, it makes sense that at that discharge rate the battery cannot hold up long. Thought about the switch myself but with no power connected the memory would probably be lost so every time time I wanted to make a phone call I would have to set it up. Sad but I will have to leave it disconnected I think.

Your are a good guy, thanks for the help and advice.

Regards