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#1 graemeg

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Posted 22 July 2016 - 10:05 PM

Hi All,

 

I know this has been covered before but I started into my speaker upgrade this evening so I thought I'd document it as I went.

I couldn't source speaker adaptor pods anywhere in the UK so I picked these up on the US site.  See details below

 

https://www.amazon.c...speaker adapter

 

They are listed for a Honda Ridgeline but fit perfectly

 

To save butchering the original wiring I also got the wiring adaptors

 

https://www.amazon.c...speaker adaptor

 

1) Remove door cards - I use a cheap set of trim tools I picked up on Amazon to do any work around plastics.  First remove the plastic trim covering the wing mirror mount 

20160722_204516_zpscwc0xvz7.jpg

 

pry off the cover behind the interior door handle, undo screws

 

20160722_204513_zpsuz3mzk5u.jpg

 

There is another screw under the rubber trim at the bottom of the pull handle on the door card, pry his up and remove

 

20160722_204635_zps97us4oya.jpg

 

At this point you can remove the door card, I used a wide trim tool pryed round the edges of the door card.  Release the bulb for the puddle light in he door and the card will swing out of your way and let you work.

 

The original speaker can be removed by releasing the spring clip at the top of the speaker and lifting the unit out of the door.

I thought I would take the opportunity to smother the front doors with sound deadening so covered he inside of the door skins and the frame with Dynamat type material

 

20160722_211758_zpsdx0936wc.jpg

 

This is well worth doing as it has even deadened down the sound of the doors closing, sounds very Germanic now.

I was running out of light on the build up so I'll finish photos when I do the left side tomorrow morning


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#2 Andyjdmteg

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Posted 23 July 2016 - 07:48 AM

Well worth doing, the standard unit actually produces a pretty good sound quality with better speakers. Make sure you swap the 6x9's too!

#3 graemeg

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Posted 23 July 2016 - 04:04 PM

Well worth doing, the standard unit actually produces a pretty good sound quality with better speakers. Make sure you swap the 6x9's too!

I swapped out the 9x9s earlier this week, it was quite a handy job.  I got a set of 3 ways which I think are a bit tall for the standard grills and are fouling a little.  It will be an easy fix though, cut the centre out of the speaker grill and retrim with acoustic cloth

 

The new speakers do make a massive difference, no distortion at all



#4 graemeg

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Posted 23 July 2016 - 04:26 PM

OK, Part 2 

 

Up and straight out to finish the car this morning, strip down on the passenger side is slightly different so more pctures

 

There are two screws hidden behind he silver trim on the passenger door trim handle

20160723_123231_zpsrfpatwxx.jpg

 

As with the driver side, also remove the screws behind the lock handle in in the trough behind the electric window switch

 

Remove the door card, prying off with a wide trim tool

 

Speaker is removed by pressing down on the spring clip (highlighted) and prying out

 

078573e2-2c57-4ade-a243-2dc7c4c4deac_zps

 

As with the drivers side I dynamatted the door cavity and the door frame where the speaker mounts attach.  With his done, I fitted the speaker adaptors, marked up the holes to secure, drilled and riveted in place

 

20160723_130638_zpsmwtszbq2.jpg

 

Speakers connected and screwed into the frames.  Good move at this stage is to test they work before reassembling the door trim

 

All done before refitting the trim

 

20160723_131343_zpsv6p0vtq9.jpg

 

I highly recommend fitting the sound deadening, I have found it has eliminated all the buzzy trim you get with loud or bassy music.

I'm considering buying more to do the wheel arches and boot lid.

 

I'm happy with the results, replacing the speakers doesn't give you any more wattage but you can make the best of what you have and the difference in clarity is brilliant


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#5 Remedi

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Posted 26 July 2016 - 01:53 PM

Great guide.  What are the specs of your new speakers compared to the standard unit?

 

I wanna upgrade mine but don't want to mess about with adding any extra amps or a sub.


2007 Honda Accord I-CTDi Executive "Diesel-R" project I My photography - http://www.remediphotomedia.com/


#6 graemeg

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Posted 29 July 2016 - 07:01 PM

Great guide.  What are the specs of your new speakers compared to the standard unit?
 
I wanna upgrade mine but don't want to mess about with adding any extra amps or a sub.


6.5" Jbl co-axials in the front and co-axial 6x9s in the back.

The back speakers are a very easy swap, old ones out and new ones drop straight in and screw into the original holes. I ran a strip of dynamat round the speaker holes to prevent any vibration. Same wiring connector is used in the back, although if you don't mind cutting the original wiring you could just patch it in.

The new speakers make a big difference, the stock head unit makes good sound with decent speakers. Good luck with the swap, feel free to message me if I can help

#7 Remedi

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Posted 29 July 2016 - 08:07 PM

6.5" Jbl co-axials in the front and co-axial 6x9s in the back.

The back speakers are a very easy swap, old ones out and new ones drop straight in and screw into the original holes. I ran a strip of dynamat round the speaker holes to prevent any vibration. Same wiring connector is used in the back, although if you don't mind cutting the original wiring you could just patch it in.

The new speakers make a big difference, the stock head unit makes good sound with decent speakers. Good luck with the swap, feel free to message me if I can help

 

Thank you. I might do when I get around to buying some :)


2007 Honda Accord I-CTDi Executive "Diesel-R" project I My photography - http://www.remediphotomedia.com/


#8 Tanna

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Posted 30 July 2016 - 09:18 AM

How would you compare the new speakers to the old is it worth doing? Also where did you get the rivets from?



#9 graemeg

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Posted 30 July 2016 - 04:16 PM

Tanna, the difference is like night and day. You won't get any more volume but the sounds are much sharper and clearer. It's really not a big job, I'd say I swapped out front and back in a total of about three hours. If you leave out the sound deadening it's quicker again

You can use self tapping screws instead of rivets, cheaper and easier if you don't have a rivet gun. You can pick both up in ay decent motor factors

#10 Remedi

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Posted 10 August 2016 - 09:20 AM

Whats the maximum speaker wattage that the standard headunit can handle and produce a good sound?

 

I'm looking at some 225watt max  2 two way 6.5 speakers for the front but I'm not amping them. (maybe in future) I know they would not be running at full potential but would they sound ok still?

 

 

I've googled and tried to search on the forum but can't find any specs on the Premium Sound amp ( I have the Ex model with the sat nav system)


Edited by Remedi, 10 August 2016 - 09:21 AM.

2007 Honda Accord I-CTDi Executive "Diesel-R" project I My photography - http://www.remediphotomedia.com/


#11 p.s.sound

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Posted 14 August 2016 - 02:11 PM

Whats the maximum speaker wattage that the standard headunit can handle and produce a good sound?

 

It doesn't work like that! The OEM system can handle any speaker, but not any speaker can handle any amp!

In your case, the OEM system doesn't really have a powerful amp, does around 10W rms clean, but that is just enough to make some noise in the car.

Any aftermarket speaker can be fine, all of them can handle this amount of amplifier power!

 

What the the Premium Sound System does is that the louder you go, the more bass it turns down and let the mid- and high-range go louder, hence that 10W / channel can be enough to make loudness, but don't expect huge bass!



#12 Racy Jace

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Posted 15 August 2016 - 10:18 PM

To keep all the audio stuff in one place I thought is post here as i did mine the weekend including the tweeters.

I think most Hondas have the same design where the grill actually comes out. I then put some leatherette over it to hide the cheap plastic.

The woofers needed a 15mm spacer I think it was as the basket wouldn't fit in my door.


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20160814_184221_zpsnl9j3qlq.jpg

#13 Remedi

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Posted 19 August 2016 - 05:01 PM

It doesn't work like that! The OEM system can handle any speaker, but not any speaker can handle any amp!

In your case, the OEM system doesn't really have a powerful amp, does around 10W rms clean, but that is just enough to make some noise in the car.

Any aftermarket speaker can be fine, all of them can handle this amount of amplifier power!

 

What the the Premium Sound System does is that the louder you go, the more bass it turns down and let the mid- and high-range go louder, hence that 10W / channel can be enough to make loudness, but don't expect huge bass!

Damn you Honda! lol

 

Thanks for that, I was thinking of some Infinity Kappas for the fronts.

 

http://www.caraudiod...m-225w-speakers

 

 

I spend 4 hours every weekday so prepare to buy something fairly decent. The magnet looks a bit big though so need to check they is room for them...  

I don't want huge bass but standard speakers really don't go low enough compared to my old 2001 Audi A4


2007 Honda Accord I-CTDi Executive "Diesel-R" project I My photography - http://www.remediphotomedia.com/


#14 kamil10

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Posted 23 August 2016 - 05:08 PM

great job,

what kind of speakers did you use.Model, Made, where i can get them from?



#15 grindr12

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Posted 05 December 2016 - 01:49 PM

Hi guys,

Anyone installed the tweeters or component set with crossover? Does the factory system has a crossover? I am assuming only on the tweeters. If so where is it located? I am planning to upgrade mine to a component set which requires both the tweeters and the woofers in the door panel to be wired through the crossover in the set. Any ideas? I am afraid I will have to rewire the whole lot coming out from the head unit...


Edited by grindr12, 05 December 2016 - 01:49 PM.


#16 Salim

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Posted 06 December 2016 - 01:30 PM

Hi, the standard hu has a Amp behind the ashtray which receives a 4ch signal from the HU and sends in to 6/8 channels depending what hu you have. The crossover is built in to the Amp, it also adjusts the equalisation as the volume is increased. That's why people who change the door speakers find its not louder and the bass tails off.

Easiest is to replace the door speakers and maybe parcel shelf (if you have them) for clarity.

If you want to install front components you will need to bypass the front channels on the Amp and take the signal from the HU, convert that to RCA and MUST run it through your own amp. It's not really worth it unless you do a full install.

#17 grindr12

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Posted 06 December 2016 - 05:54 PM

Hi, the standard hu has a Amp behind the ashtray which receives a 4ch signal from the HU and sends in to 6/8 channels depending what hu you have. The crossover is built in to the Amp, it also adjusts the equalisation as the volume is increased. That's why people who change the door speakers find its not louder and the bass tails off.

Easiest is to replace the door speakers and maybe parcel shelf (if you have them) for clarity.

If you want to install front components you will need to bypass the front channels on the Amp and take the signal from the HU, convert that to RCA and MUST run it through your own amp. It's not really worth it unless you do a full install.

 

Thanks Sal!

I have a 2003 Accord Type-S with standard HU components on the front and ovals on the shelf. Nothing in the rear doors  :unsure: . Eventually I want to have a full upgrade that's why want components on the front (I am a perfectionist ^_^ ). Planning to start with the front components and then the HU. Was going to start with HU but it's expensive and read that changing the front speakers would be already a big step so was thinking to give it a try and see how I feel.

So basically the HU is a controller and player only the amp has the power and the crossover. But then I could still use the amp's crossover with the new component set, right? Then when changing the HU I could pop in the crossover got with the component set. When changing the HU I reckon I also take out the amp too and I attach the new HU with the cable coming out from the factory amp going to the speakers? Do you know if there is a cable going to the rear doors? If so is it plugged into the factory amp?



#18 Salim

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Posted 06 December 2016 - 06:08 PM

Yes I guess you can put in a set of comps and run the separate signals for the mids and highs from the amp.

#19 kamil10

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Posted 24 June 2017 - 08:01 PM

Hi Guys
I am planing to sound proof the doors and replace factory speakers,. At the beginning just the front ones and tweeters. ( just to see the difference) .
I am planing to buy rockford fosgate p165-se.
Just wondering whats gonna be the difference between 2way and 3 way??
Anyone had this speakers fitted maybe?
Will I be able to install tweeters at the Same place as old once are?

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#20 honda_saj

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Posted 26 June 2017 - 11:28 AM

2 way speaker do bass/mids one cone and tweets is separate on 3 way you will have 3 separates for bass, mids and tweet, never installed speakers on honda accord so not sure but I'm sure can be done. Tweeters I believe have been replaced but believe are tricky to do

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hope that helps post back and let us know so that others can benefit from the information

Regards,

saj