apintofmild
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The sticker under the bonnet says the coolant should be changed at 62500 miles and every 37500 miles thereafter. I’ve just hit 62000 miles and the sun was out (when I started at least!) so I thought I’d get the tools out.
Before you start you’re going to need to gather together the following:
6.9 Litres Honda coolant (I got a 5L and 2 x 1L)
Containers to catch up to 7 litres of old coolant
Coolant drain plug o-ring p/n 19012-671-300 (optional)
First start the engine, turn the heater up to max and then remove the keys:
Raise the car and support it on stands:
Remove the cap from the expansion chamber:
The coolant drain is accessible without removing the undertray in the hole at the front of the car:
With your collection container at the ready, unscrew the drain plug a couple of turns. Don’t fully withdraw the plug, or you’ll have coolant all over the place! You’re aiming for a steady stream from the little hole. It’ll take a good 15 minutes to drain at this pace, but it’s controllable and there will be minimal spillage. I got on with a fuel filter swap whilst it was dribbling out.
When the coolant had stopped I chose to replace the o-ring as a precaution. It’s only a few extra pence on the job, and would save me kicking myself if it started dripping with the new coolant in.
Re-fit the plug and lower the car off the stands. Locate the engine bleed screw behind the turbo and using a 12mm socket undo it a couple of turns.
Start refilling the system. The first 4 litres went in really quickly, the remainder at a snails pace.
Keep your eye on the bleed bolt for coolant bubbling out (mine took 6.5 litres before it appeared) and stop filling once the bubbles stop and you get a steady stream.
Tighten the bleed bolt (to 9.8Nm) and continue filling until the level on the expansion tank shows full.
The problem here is I found it impossible to see the fluid level on the side of the header tank. I took a few measurements and made the following from two cable ties:
As far as I can tell the distance between the top surface of the filler neck and the minimum mark on the expansion tank is 70mm, so that’s the length of the dip stick. The difference between max and min levels is about 10mm. By my reckoning, provided the end of the dip-stick is wet, but by no more than 10mm, the level is about right.
Leave the cap off the expansion tank and start the engine. You’re supposed to let the radiator fan run at least twice, but the car will sit there idling all day without needing the fans so I suggest just let it run up to normal running temp for a few minutes (it’ll take a while unless the engine was warm to begin with). Keep an eye on the coolant level. If it drops appreciably as air is purged from the system add more coolant. Check under the car and around the bleed bolt for any leaks. Refit the filler cap and allow the engine to cool. Put the kettle on.
For your next half dozen journeys keep a bottle of coolant in the boot, keep a close eye on the temp gauge and ONCE THE ENGINE HAS COOLED remove the filler cap and verify the coolant level (as trapped air might find it’s way out and need topping up).
Finally store and dispose of your old coolant responsibly. A phone call to your local council will let you know where you can take it. Alternatively a friendly garage may take it off your hands in exchange for beer / cake. Don’t just pour it down the drain or into the ground, it’s toxic to people, fish and wildlife.
For what it’s worth the coolant that came out of mine looked EXACTLY like the coolant that went in. I’ve not the means to check the specific gravity, but I’d bet it was just fine. It was reassuring to find it wasn’t full of gunk though, and if I ever suffer an expensive coolant related repair I can console myself that the coolant was changed on time with genuine Honda fluid.
Before you start you’re going to need to gather together the following:
6.9 Litres Honda coolant (I got a 5L and 2 x 1L)
Containers to catch up to 7 litres of old coolant
Coolant drain plug o-ring p/n 19012-671-300 (optional)
First start the engine, turn the heater up to max and then remove the keys:
Raise the car and support it on stands:
Remove the cap from the expansion chamber:
The coolant drain is accessible without removing the undertray in the hole at the front of the car:
With your collection container at the ready, unscrew the drain plug a couple of turns. Don’t fully withdraw the plug, or you’ll have coolant all over the place! You’re aiming for a steady stream from the little hole. It’ll take a good 15 minutes to drain at this pace, but it’s controllable and there will be minimal spillage. I got on with a fuel filter swap whilst it was dribbling out.
When the coolant had stopped I chose to replace the o-ring as a precaution. It’s only a few extra pence on the job, and would save me kicking myself if it started dripping with the new coolant in.
Re-fit the plug and lower the car off the stands. Locate the engine bleed screw behind the turbo and using a 12mm socket undo it a couple of turns.
Start refilling the system. The first 4 litres went in really quickly, the remainder at a snails pace.
Keep your eye on the bleed bolt for coolant bubbling out (mine took 6.5 litres before it appeared) and stop filling once the bubbles stop and you get a steady stream.
Tighten the bleed bolt (to 9.8Nm) and continue filling until the level on the expansion tank shows full.
The problem here is I found it impossible to see the fluid level on the side of the header tank. I took a few measurements and made the following from two cable ties:
As far as I can tell the distance between the top surface of the filler neck and the minimum mark on the expansion tank is 70mm, so that’s the length of the dip stick. The difference between max and min levels is about 10mm. By my reckoning, provided the end of the dip-stick is wet, but by no more than 10mm, the level is about right.
Leave the cap off the expansion tank and start the engine. You’re supposed to let the radiator fan run at least twice, but the car will sit there idling all day without needing the fans so I suggest just let it run up to normal running temp for a few minutes (it’ll take a while unless the engine was warm to begin with). Keep an eye on the coolant level. If it drops appreciably as air is purged from the system add more coolant. Check under the car and around the bleed bolt for any leaks. Refit the filler cap and allow the engine to cool. Put the kettle on.
For your next half dozen journeys keep a bottle of coolant in the boot, keep a close eye on the temp gauge and ONCE THE ENGINE HAS COOLED remove the filler cap and verify the coolant level (as trapped air might find it’s way out and need topping up).
Finally store and dispose of your old coolant responsibly. A phone call to your local council will let you know where you can take it. Alternatively a friendly garage may take it off your hands in exchange for beer / cake. Don’t just pour it down the drain or into the ground, it’s toxic to people, fish and wildlife.
For what it’s worth the coolant that came out of mine looked EXACTLY like the coolant that went in. I’ve not the means to check the specific gravity, but I’d bet it was just fine. It was reassuring to find it wasn’t full of gunk though, and if I ever suffer an expensive coolant related repair I can console myself that the coolant was changed on time with genuine Honda fluid.
