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f2raf

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Location
Rochdale
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Honda Accord
Sorry im sure its been discussed previously but I cannot locate he thread. I want to fit new discs & Pads all round on a 2005 Tourer Diesel 2.2

2 Years ago the garage just put on standard stuff from ECP, they lasted 2 years and have done the job. I wanted to spend a little more on Decent stuff this time around. ECP now sell Eicher, Pagid & Brembo, I dont mind going for Brembo. Can anyone confirm what sizes i need please front & back.
 
I've moved from Pagid to fitting Brembos where available. Not because of the name just that the fitment is a lot better.
 
If searching some decent stuff i'd go for EBC standard disc's ( they are anti corosion coated ) and some EBC ultimax pads

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I ended up getting a complete set of dics & pads directly from Honda, they are being fitted today, phoned for an update, garage said rear off side piston stuck, wont go back in....HMMM! i had this issue before im sure with on of the rear calipers! and i replaced the caliper 2 yrs ago. He said drive it and bring it in a few days to see if its sticking? is that safe? i got kids to cart around
 
If the piston won't go in then they won't be able to fit the new pads to it so if they fit new pads to the other working side then you'll get uneven braking on the rears and any problems with braking is not something I'd be happy with!
 
I spoke to him when I collected it, he said they have to push the caliper back to put the pad in, 3 calipers came back easy but the 4th did not so they did push it back with some force. The pad is in now in place, he said seems fine but bring it back in a few days to see if it is stuck. Have been driving today including motorway, all seems fine.
In terms of braking performance, it is very good and very responsive. I paid £185.00 for a set of 4 discs and pads from Honda holdcroft delivered next day. My local Honda franchise wanted over £400 for the same set. The garage charged me £80.00 fitted which I think is very reasonable.
 
As Pete1958 said, if the piston is blocked they would not be able to change the pads so no worry and enjoy them

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The piston is not actually pushed back but turned back in with a special tool (***uming the Tourer rear calipers are the same as the saloon) but I'm glad you seem to have it sorted now and all is well :) .
 
Tourer pistons push straight in, no winding necessary.
 
3 of them did push back easily, it was just the 4th they said needed brute force. Now I know one of the rear ones was changed 2 years ago, maybe a winder type was put on instead of a pusher backer type. Unless they just fitted the wrong one. Hmm anyway they work brilliantly and I cannot recommend the genuine Honda ones enough, it's like instant performance, no spongy bedding in feeling you get with aftermarket brakes.
 
Bounder said:
Tourer pistons push straight in, no winding necessary.
Are the tourer calipers different than the saloon?
I have the saloon i-ctdi 2006 and the special tool is needed

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The Tourer has a separate parking brake whereas the saloon has the handbrake mechanism built into the caliper (like most cars). That's the reason they wind in and out.
 
im using EBC Yellow pads front and back with M Tec brake disc front and back with slots, been to nurburgring for 3 laps and back and i would say its done the job with no fade.
 
Cool Adrian, are they like performance pads/discs. Mine are running just fine now no issues.
 
Mtec are performance discs which types are you running ? Ebc yellow are good but how are they on the road as they need to be quite hot before they bite well

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about 4 months ago I replaced my front disks and pads with a set of bosh and now I am experiencing steering giddering when going over 60km/hr and during braking.

I filled in the form to check the price but honda holdcrofft never replied
http://www.holdcrofthonda.co.uk/showroom/cars/contactus/

any one has their direct email address as I don't live in UK
 
Got a full set of TRW painted today, front & rear with TRW Cotec pads, will let you know how they go but from the marketing gumph the discs are high carbon which is supposed to help with heat and noise (past experience with low carbon iron on discs says this could be true as some cheap ones I have had on other cars were terrible) and the TRW COTEC pads are supposed to have better day one braking performance from new (youtube it).
 
dejv said:
about 4 months ago I replaced my front disks and pads with a set of bosh and now I am experiencing steering giddering when going over 60km/hr and during braking.

I filled in the form to check the price but honda holdcrofft never replied
http://www.holdcrofthonda.co.uk/showroom/cars/contactus/

any one has their direct email address as I don't live in UK
Have you checked the wheel bearings and the inner and outer track rod ends?

If it's a warped disc, next time you come to a set of lights, let the car roll the last few metres at walking speed till it stops. If it's a warped disc you'll feel it bind then release over and over again.
Or you can go out in the cold, Jack it up and spin each wheel.
 
i have been to the Nurbergring with them on. front and back with Mtec disc that are slots all round. the pads are pretty good even under cold as its my daily drive but once warmed up its stopping distance on peddle is real good. i did clean all my carriers and sliders too when installing as there is a lot of build up.. another thing to add is that i have installed braided brake lines so the peddle feeling is much more firm and i love it.. for my daily its real good set up. for weekends when im happy i got out in the RX7 and power slid hehe.

if anyone needs the pads and disc i can offer 10% off for disc and pads.
 
Having had new genuine Honda discs and pads installed all around, they are now feeling very poor. For the first few hundred miles they were very sharp, now they feel worse than my old set. Do they need bleeding or something?
 
Goodluckmonkey said:
it's a warped disc you'll feel it bind then release over and over again.
Or you can go out in the cold, Jack it up and spin each wheel.
Be careful with this type of ****ysis. An actual warped disc does not bind and release under brakes. A brake caliper is designed to float around a warp in the disc. If you feel a pulse in the pedal, or grip / release, this is likely uneven brake disc thickness due to uneven wear or uneven surface deposits from the brake pads.

This happens a lot to cars that spend a lot of time in slow traffic, and can be overcome by performing a couple of good hard stops each week.

Some car brands have more abrasive pads and wear out discs every few years. The benefit is that these cars have a nice even brake disc surface machined on the go ans tend to not pulse. They also tend to have ugly black residue covering the front wheels.

Before you go out and ****yse or replace "warped discs" take your car for a good hard drive like up and down a mountain, and make the brakes do some work. You'll be surprised how well this works.
 
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