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Rear brakes issue

Konda

Konda

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Messages
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Location
Cornwall
Car
Honda Accord Type S
Greetings! I have a problem with my 2003 2.4 Accord Tourer which have now left me completely baffled. I have replaced the nearside rear caliper because the piston was seized. And I have also fitted new pads. Couple days later the offside rear brake starts to bind (heavily) So I thought it could be another seized caliper however it isn't because the piston is still free, but for the hell of it I have replaced for a new caliper anyway (so 2 new calipers on the rear) Between this time, both wheels decides to bind to a point you cannot even move the car (and yes the handbrake is off) Now I'm thinking could this be a master cylinder issue? I'm a experienced mechanic and I have never came across this issue before.

Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
 
Hi,

Would need to open discs or use window to check tension on handbrake to make sure shoes are not locked, which calipers did you buy as there are two types and two types of pads, sounds like you have wrong pads ?
 
Thanks for the quick reply!

The pads and calipers are correct for my car because the first set I had were incorrect (completely different design)

The internal drum handbrake is fine. Basically as soon as I undo the two caliper bolts, the disc then spins freely, and then do them bolts up again, the disc still spins freely. But as soon as I apply the brake, both rear wheels lock and won't let off (heavily bind)

As I'm righting this I just had a thought.. could it be partially blocked flexi hoses?
 
It could be the fluid hose a lot of mechanics damage them by dangling caliper around have you tested with rear jacked up?

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The brake master cylinder have nothing to do with your problem.
If i understand well the disc is blocked not the drum right?
 
Sounds like rear brake hoses are shot.
Replace these and have a brake fluid change.
Also make sure you have the correct pads as the saloon ones have nipples on to slot into the pistons.
Iv seen this lots of times.
 
+1 sometimes the brake hoses do go on these

& the brakes are going on too tight for it just to be sticking pads.
 
Can someone please explain me what have to do the brake hoses whit this issue if when he undo the caliper bolts, the disc turns normally?
To me it sounds more sticking caliper guides.
Corect me if i'm wrong... just trying to learn :)
 
Op some response or update ive heard some have had to grind their pad down in one corner so caliper can move freely but didn't have to do on mine

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As the rear brake calipers are designed with 1 piston, the calipers must "float" perfectly. They must slide freely around the pins (13 & 15)

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File the locating tabs on the pads, so that they rattle when fitted into the caliper, a lot of these pads are remanufactured and the paint is a bit too thick to allow them to move.
 
edgeoftime said:
File the locating tabs on the pads, so that they rattle when fitted into the caliper, a lot of these pads are remanufactured and the paint is a bit too thick to allow them to move.
Click to expand...
This - very common on the tourer. I had the same on mine. The caliper and pads need to "float" on the rotors.
 
It may not be the pads, I found when I stripped and rebuilt my Tourers rear calipers that rust had forced the stainless guide plates into the pads causing them to bind slightly, Once I polished all the rust away and refitted the plates the pads fitted perfectly.
It was only a very slight amount of rust but it caused the square locating tabs on the pads to bind at the ends.
 
Great points but ultimately pads should be able to move freely in carrier

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Hi Kyfer what was the final outcome ? It would be helpful if you let members know for future reference.​
 
Sorry people for the very late reply! I have been very busy in the last couple of weeks!

I have grinded the paint off the pads in the first place. I always do that as majority of brake companys paint the pads waaay too thick. But the problem in the end was the rear brake flexi hoses. Someone I work with at the garage told me it can be rare to happen but brake flexi hoses can corrode inside and cause the fluid not to return (hence causing the brakes to lock) But just reading over the Internet it is fairly common! So, new flexi hoses fitted and it solved the problem straight away!

Thankyou for your help!
 
Great thanks for update have heard of hoses causing problems thanks for outcome I always recommend fitting good quality braided hose as will reduce spongy feel in brake pedal

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I should of just replaced the hoses in the first place because it was an MOT advisory! Oh well, atleast everything is new on the rear end haha
 
I did mention in post 4
It could be the fluid hose a lot of mechanics damage them by dangling caliper around have you tested with rear jacked up?

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As said on post 5
Glad your sorted Konda.
This is also very common on the 8th gen saloon as it shares the same rear brake set up.
I had this after 4 years on ownership.
 
brett said:
As said on post 5
Glad your sorted Konda.
This is also very common on the 8th gen saloon as it shares the same rear brake set up.
I had this after 4 years on ownership.
Click to expand...
Correct you mentioned in post 6

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