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Problems with a clutch system

Qhube

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Honda Accord ictdi
Hello guys am new in the forum I thought to give it a go and get some help here if possible, I have a 2005 2.2l ictdi honda accord, a few days ago in the morning I started the car all of a sudden the gears aren't shifting I opened the hood to find out the clutch master cylinder was leaking, I bought a good second hand one from the Honda breakers and changed it, after installing it I bled it,checked for any leaks, now my problem is the gears are still not shifting if the car is idling but if I switch off the ignition the gears are shifting ok please if anyone has an idea help me and tell me what could be the cause or how can I solve this issue, thanks in advance
 
You have to bleed the system again.
When the system was drained for some reason it could be very trickie to bleed it properly so you shoud try to bleed with "two person bleed" system to do the job.
This is the easyest thing to do before try anything else
 
How did you bleed system?

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On certain vehicles with hydraulic brakes you can get rid of any air locks by keeping the lever depressed overnight to clear the pipes back to the reservoir. Can one do the same with the clutch ?
 
It can be quite tricky to shift air from the slave cylinder. Worst case, you may have to compress the slave cylinder during bleeding by forcing the rod back into it. I've also heard of Civic owner who had to remove it and then bleed it while in an elevated position.
 
Thanks guys for your responses, I bled the system with a friend who helped me at first when the clutch pedal was depressed it couldn't come back up so I had to build the pressure inside the system by when I open the bleeding nipple he depress it,when I close it he then pull the pedal up repeating the procedure until it was stiff, I repeated the procedure until I could see all new fresh clutch fluid circulating around it took me a long time just to bleed it to make sure there are no air bubbles so now I don't know whether I missed somewhere or its a different problem now that makes shifting gears impossible or its just that I need to bleed it somemore in case I left an air bubble
 
The gears shift ok with the engine off, so the clutch is failing to clear. This is most likely to be because of persistent trapped air. You need to modify your bleeding technique!
 
Qhube said:
Thanks guys for your responses, I bled the system with a friend who helped me at first when the clutch pedal was depressed it couldn't come back up so I had to build the pressure inside the system by when I open the bleeding nipple he depress it,when I close it he then pull the pedal up repeating the procedure until it was stiff, I repeated the procedure until I could see all new fresh clutch fluid circulating around it took me a long time just to bleed it to make sure there are no air bubbles so now I don't know whether I missed somewhere or its a different problem now that makes shifting gears impossible or its just that I need to bleed it somemore in case I left an air bubble
He must pump the pedal and keep it on the floor, then you must open the nipple and after 2-3 seconds you close it. After that he must lift the pedal from the floor ( usualy must do it with hand ). And than again he must pump the pedal few times from top to bottom and repeat the procedure few times.
If you will loose the nipple when the pedal is depressed you will allow the air to get in to the system.
So...Don't open the nipple if the pedal is not pressed on the floor, and do not lift the pedal from the floor until the nipple is opened
 
Modify my bleeding technic thats what am going to do next in a few hours I have a half day at work today thanks jon_G for your suggestion I will update you guys at lunch time, am even planning to get a vacuum clutch bleeder or an easy bleed is that something good to invest in?
 
From my experience vacuum bleed works, I start by removing slave cylinder then open bleed valve bleed master cylinder then you push in slave cylinder piston to bleed slave cylinder close bleed valve refit and done have replaced two master cylinder and vaccum bleed is the quickest and easiest way to do. Gravity bleed does not always work also you need to ensure slave cylinder is below master to bleed correctly if using gravity method although I don't recommend as many people have had issues with gravity bleed

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Channel Hopper said:
On certain vehicles with hydraulic brakes you can get rid of any air locks by keeping the lever depressed overnight to clear the pipes back to the reservoir. Can one do the same with the clutch ?
Not aware of this method

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Jon_G said:
It can be quite tricky to shift air from the slave cylinder. Worst case, you may have to compress the slave cylinder during bleeding by forcing the rod back into it. I've also heard of Civic owner who had to remove it and then bleed it while in an elevated position.
Yes the reason I said use vacuum pump, move cylinder down and you must push in slave cylinder piston to bleed slave cylinder otherwise you have only bled master cylinder.

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I'm not sure that vacuum bleeding is any more effective at shifting trapped air than the traditional 'two person, pump and undo the nipple' technique, although obviously it does save having to rope in an ***istant, although the technique you described
honda_saj said:
Yes the reason I said use vacuum pump, move cylinder down and you must push in slave cylinder piston to bleed slave cylinder otherwise you have only bled master cylinder.
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Would definitely be recommended!
 
Jon g if you dig in the Internet you will find loads of info about gravity bleed on clutch being a problem like i said if you must do it will take ages you need to ensure slave cylinder is below master and with vacuum can be done in 10 minutes and no issues.

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It needs to be bled with everytgi g running uphill to push the bubble out the top. If you have an internal corner in a component, it can trap a bubble and make life difficult.

Sometimes you need to undo components to reposition them to remove the air bubbles when bleeding.

Back-bleeding (as mentioned) is a great way of doing things. Get everything running uphill to the master cylinder, and push the slave cylinder in, forcing the fluid (and air out the master cylinder) pump the cylinder back out with the pedal and repeat.

Leaving the pedal depressed overnight would only work if the air was in the line running downhill from the master cylinder.
 
Guys I give up on this clutch thing i've been trying to bleed properly for the past 3 hours at the same time trying to see if gears shift but am hitting a brick wall honestly I feel like scrapping the car now am fed up what else can I try?
 
Try what Goodluckmonkey said.
Park the car uphill ( bigger is better ) and try to bleed again
 
I thought I'd look it up on the Honda ESM (Electronic Service Manual aka DVD)

It took some finding, but this is what the ESM says ...............

  • Attach a hose to the bleeder screw, and suspend the hose in a container of brake fluid.
  • Make sure there is an adequate supply of fluid in the clutch master cylinder, then slowly pump the clutch pedal until no more bubbles appear at the bleeder hose.
  • It may be necessary to limit the movement of the release fork with a block of wood to remove all the air from the system.
  • Tighten the bleed screw to 8 N·m (0.8 kgf·m, 5.8 lbf·ft); do not overtighten it.
  • Refill the clutch master cylinder with fluid when done.
  • Always use only Honda DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid.
 
Or use a vacuum pump then you can do on level ground

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honda_saj said:
Or use a vacuum pump then you can do on level ground
True but, either way, I think this is an important thing to try when struggling to get the air out...
freddofrog said:
[*]It may be necessary to limit the movement of the release fork with a block of wood to remove all the air from the system.[/*]
[/LIST]
 
Many moons ago when I was working in a garage the mechanics had a Triumph Herald hoisted up until it was almost on it's nose to get rid of an air lock in the brakes system.
 
Any type of bleeding should be done with a clear hose with the end suspended in fluid, positioned above the nipple. A nipple open to the air is really only an emergency procdure. (but somehow has become the standard thing people do)
 
Richard B said:
Any type of bleeding should be done with a clear hose with the end suspended in fluid, positioned above the nipple. A nipple open to the air is really only an emergency procdure. (but somehow has become the standard thing people do)
I agree even if it's a pipe to a jar

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Hello guys am back again thanks for your inputs I really appreciate it but it turned out its NOT the bleeding I was getting wrong the problem was a clutch release bearing and a flywheel was wobbly tested with hands apparently the flywheel dampers and springs were gone and the clutch plate was grinding against the flywheel bolts,it was a mess luckily the gearbox was not affected so I got a new 3 piece clutch kit (LUK) and a flywheel they are working on it and it costed me an arm and a leg so after all this costly job am gonna keep my Honda now coz its not worth it getting rid of it its mint now
 
Great stuff thanks for update

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