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Timing Chain

Spaic

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Leicester
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Accord
Thinking to change the timing chain.what would you recommend changing/doing to the engine if is going to be stripped for the chain change.

Which kit do you recommend. Thanks
 
Unless you really think that a chain is failing, I'd leave well alone. It's a fairly big job and the parts are expensive. There are two chains, one for the cam and another for the oil pump/balancer ***embly. They should both be replaced, ideally, if one is showing signs of wear.

I can't think of any additional jobs that you could do while stripping the engine down for this job, although if you have a pre-facelift model the shorter aux belt mod is a good idea. The aircon compressor has to be removed so, if necessary, it'd be a good opportunity to fit a replacement.

A TA member was recently selling a chain kit... http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/23134-new-timg-chain-kit-for-22-i-cdti-oem-cl7-euro-r-recaro-driver-side-rail-and-few-other-bits/
 
The chain does an ugly noise.it concerns me a lot.don't want to end up with a snapped chain.i have seen some after market chains around 200£.
The alternator I think was modified to the shorter belt.
Thanks
 
My chains were far cheaper than £200 (for aftermarket Febi chains), more like £80 for the pair, but I'm not sure that the shorter oil pump chain is still available from Febi? It's the ***ociated gubbins that racks up the cost... the bits that you can only usually get from Honda, such as tensioners, tensioner arms/slippers and guides, etc. The lower tensioner alone cost me £155 from Honda, even with the forum discount.

But if you can get a whole kit for £200 then great! But is that just a cam chain replacement kit though? While the very long cam chain is usually the one that gets noisy, it's often the much shorter oil pump/balancer chain that snaps and wrecks the engine.

If your car is a pre-facelift model then it may just be a tensioner that's failed (the early ones were a bad design which were modified for the 2006 model). If you're lucky and it's the cam chain tensioner then this can be fairly easily replaced through an inspection cover on the chain cover. The newer tensioner design is a straight swap for the older (ratcheting) type.
 
Just looking around for parts and found both chains from febi at £90ish.what would.i need more?two tensioners for both chains?do I need the sprockets and rails ?

Thanks
 
Spaic said:
Just looking around for parts and found both chains from febi at £90ish.what would.i need more?two tensioners for both chains?do I need the sprockets and rails ?
Thanks
The was my shopping list, some things bought up front, then other things bought when I'd ***essed the worn items...
Both chains (Febi 30699 & 31115) from eBay = £81
Oil pump drive chain tensioner + 4 copper injector gaskets + oil filter + sump drain washer from HH = £172 (bought upfront)
Timing chain tensioner arm + replacement tensioner bolts from HH = £50 (bought after ***essing worn items)
6 Litres of 0w30 TripleQX oil + tube of Loctite 5920 'instant gasket' from ECP = £33
So total = £336 (including the oil change)

I also bought a tool for locking/tightening the crankshaft pulley (which was the worst job). You'll also need an engine hoist.

If your car is a facelift model then you may not need to replace either tensioner (later ones were improved).

More info here, including additional links to how I struggled with the crank pulley removal, how I removed the injectors, and how I refitted the injectors (pics on page 2)...
http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/16473-replacement-of-engine-chains/
 
Great info jon

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