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Metallic clatter

mace

mace

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Messages
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Location
Glasgow
Car
Accord 2.4 Exec
Hi,

Wifes 2.2 diesel accord (2005) has started sounding more clattery of late, even for a diesel. Specifically, at idle, there is an audible metal against metal clatter from the engine. Easiest way to describe it, is it sounds like something is randomly tapping metal against metal. Approximately once or twice a second, but as noted, it's semi-random.

Seems to clear when revved gently.

Thoughts? Does the diesel have timing chain/tensioner issues?

Thanks,

Miah
 
Sounds like a failing oil pump chain to me.
 
Failing, or failed? How much of a mission is it to replace?
 
Failing. It's like a grenade missing it's pin.

It's not the easiest job to do.
Time consuming, and wether or not the injectors want to come out (to remove the cam cover) can be a bit of a lottery.
 
Thanks Goodluckmonkey,


I've had the injectors out of this one previously, or at least one of them anyway, details hazy. Plus gas is my friend.

Needs to survive for another month or two, I've got too many other cars off the road at the moment to take the only remaining one out of service.
 
Yeah, PFL tensioners were a bit poor. Later ones exerted greater force (and are direct replacements for the early​ types).
 
Not sure if this engine is pre or post facelift; the original was replaced when I bought the car off a mate after oil starvation killed the original one.

I'm pondering how difficult it is to remove the engine from the car; makes lining up the covers etc easier.
 
I did my chains when I did my engine swap.

Not the worst job in the world, and it does all come out the top with the gearbox still attached.

You'll need a balance bar for your hoist though, or you'll be inventing new swear words.
 
I replaced both the engine chains without removing the engine. The lack of room makes it a very awkward job... it would be much easier if the engine was removed, but then you've got the nuisance of removing it.
 
Yep. It's not just the engine.
You have to separate the suspension so that you can pull the driveshafts out, and then there's PAS and aircon pumps to come out too.

Not a bad idea if you plan on replacing at the same time though.
I swapped in a new turbo and checked the clutch and DMF at the same time.

Found a brand new setup in the car, and the clutch and DMF in the new motor was brand new too.

Great situation to be in if you want a car mapped, as you know what you're starting out with.
 
Well, as it turned out, it isn't the oil pump chain, yet, at least. I dug out my mechanics stethoscope and everywhere on the engine and ancillaries sounded fine, except the alternator.

Figured it must be some kind of odd bearing failure, so phoned up a local alternator shop and headed over there. Took it in, and five minutes later the guy comes back and tells me, bearings are fine, it's your pulley.

Turns out these alternators have some kind of fancy clutched pulley, and after well over an hour of them wrestling with this alternator and a dead one they had kicking about (but which had a good pulley) away I went 84 quid lighter but with a quiet alternator.

Can see the bearing on the back of the alternator pulley itself is well on its way to destruction, most of the ball bearing cage was completely missing.

Fitted back on the car and no more noise, so happy days.

Quite a mission getting the old alternator out though on the diesel with aircon. Ended up dismantling most of the front end, but if everything was being less stubborn I reckon you could do it with just the left hand fan out.
 
Great news.
On mine, the noise from the pump chain transmitted up through the PAS pump and the Alternator.

I thought I was in exactly the situation you are in, till the chain snapped 4 days later.

Really glad you've dodged that bullet, and the universe is balancing out my misfortune.

Your wife's car must be the Yin to my cars Yang.
 
Well given my accord died a death a few days ago, I think this one was feeling kind.
 
Obviously deserved an easy fix.
 
I'm still hoping that your 2.4 is an easy fix ;
(check the plugs then remove the rocker cover, honest, on the 2.4 it's less than an hour)
 
Will continue 2.4 woes on the other thread..

Spoke too soon on the diesel.

Clatter is still away,but after a 1200 mile round trip of the UK at the weekend, it's developed a tendency to leave a puddle of oil underneath (I mitigated this mid trip by restricting revs to ~ 2100 or less for the remaining 500 miles and that seems to have stopped that), and a smell of something in the cabin when not moving with the blower running.

Initially thought this latter issue might be residual oil from the leak, but it's still doing it so either it's still leaking a minute amount directly onto the exhaust, or its something more serious like the manifold.

I've not gotten underneath yet and pulled the engine cover, but oil leak wise there has always been a lot of oil around the area of the filter housing; it looks the same now though as it always has, but that's the only obvious place visible from the top that has any real quantity of oil on it.

Not ideal timing given none of the other motors are either running or accessible to run (one runs but is in the garage behind a trailer with a car on it, and the p38 is currently sans engine getting work done).
 
Do you mean housing, or the plastic lid that holds the filter in? Done the latter, not the former. I think the oil round here is mostly just sloppy filling by a previous owner/garage, looking at it more closely. I've sprayed some of it off with brake cleaner, see if it comes back any time soon.

Anyhow the car deity is shining on me again apparently, because:

175ac50c809cbf7efedd2e076a17d8dc.jpg


Not sure what torque that injector bracket bolt needs, but I've nipped it up until it just stops throwing brake fluid back at me as I spray it on. Not a permanent fix but better than it was. I guess it'll have to come out at some point and get reseated with a new washer.
 
I am of course hoping that the pool of 'oil' on the floor was in fact coming past this injector. Not sure whether the question that then poses is a better one: is it throwing oil out of that cylinder, on top of the sticky combustion residue.
 
From memory, it's about 9ft.lb then a further 90 degrees... So not an answer you can make much use of in this situation!

Did you actually manage to cure a blowing injector gasket by simply tightening up the clamp bolt?
 
Cure is a very strong word. Stop it for the 30 seconds I was looking at it, yes. Doubt it'll last for too long.
 
Double check that power steering hose first.
 
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