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Puncture repairs

Jon_G

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Location
Nr Ludlow, Shropshire
Car
2005 Tourer i-CTDi
Last week I suffered yet another puncture.. that's now a total of six in the last 18 months, including a rear blowout after hitting a half-brick at speed on a local A-road... this latest puncture was especially annoying, as the punctured tyre was almost new!

Alarmingly, this most recent puncture was troublingly close to the edge of the tread and a quick glance at tyre advice websites suggested that a repair might not be possible, as repairs outside the central 70% of the tread are not permitted. However, defining the exact point at which tread becomes sidewall is a matter of some interpretation, so I took the wheel to a local garage (where, due to my frequent visits, I am now on first name terms with their tyre specialist).

Even he was unable to give me a definite answer, merely explaining that he'd always rather play safe and avoid repairing a tyre in circumstances requiring careful interpretation. However he did agreed to remove the tyre and see how the internal repair patch would sit and, with some chin-scratching, decided that the repair patch would not overlap any part that could reasonably be identified as sidewall and so carried out a conventional repair.

Prior to the repair being performed we did discuss other repair options; he laughingly dismissed using an aerosol puncture repair, or adding any sort of liquid latex (so a poke in the eye to Honda) on the grounds that these were merely 'get you home' bodges of uncertain reliability that also create a serious mess for the tyre fitter to deal with afterwards (and may then attract an additional fee for the tyre change!).

But (and here's the real point of my post) he did confirm that a puncture outside the 70% area (or even in the sidewall) can be safely and legally repaired using a hot vulcanisation process, which involves inserting a thick repair patch into the damaged area and baking the tyre in an oven. Apparently not many places can offer this service (he doesn't) but there is a tyre repair specialist in Ludlow that can offer such repairs (presumably because this is a highly agricultural area?)... the suggested cost was 'around £30', which obviously is a big increase on the £8 (cash) that I paid.

I guess it largely depends on the comparative cost of a new tyre, but I was wondering if anyone here had ever had a hot vulcanisation repair?
 
Jon_G said:
there is a tyre repair specialist in Ludlow that can offer such repairs (presumably because this is a highly agricultural area?)
I've just tried googling "hot vulcanised tyre repair" in my area and a couple come up

out of interest, how did you find the one in Ludlow ?
 
Yes they look dubious but I covered major miles on two different cars and it was bang on, never lost pressure and no issues. It's pretty amazing, once you screw the adhesive strip into the hole,
It just uses the heat from the tyre being driven to melt itself into a permanent and tight seal.
 
F6HAD said:
Yes they look dubious but I covered major miles on two different cars and it was bang on, never lost pressure and no issues. It's pretty amazing, once you screw the adhesive strip into the hole,
It just uses the heat from the tyre being driven to melt itself into a permanent and tight seal.
To be honest, if the local guy couldn't/wouldn't have undertaken the repair then this would have been exactly the sort of repair that I'd have sought out. I'd have justified it to myself as a temporary thing, but then probably have just left it indefinitely (on the rear, not the front).
 
Jon_G said:
To be honest, if the local guy couldn't/wouldn't have undertaken the repair then this would have been exactly the sort of repair that I'd have sought out. I'd have justified it to myself as a temporary thing, but then probably have just left it indefinitely (on the rear, not the front).
A blow-out on the rear is more dangerous than on the front. The former results in uncontrollable oversteer, the latter results in controllable understeer.

But otherwise I do agree that those "worm" inserts look a better temporary solution than that stupid gunk
 
I think the key is to ensure it is only carried out squarely on the face of the tyre where it's making contact with the road. Under no circumstances should it be done on or near the sidewall where load characteristics and strength are different. Also important to mention both circumstances in which I had it done was on runflats.. they're a stronger compound than non runflats.
 
I have a repair kit that uses mushroom rubber plugs and a gun to insert them into tyres . I have used it numerous times over the years and after rigorous testing inculding having three of them in a KTM 990 superduke rear tyre and a day at santa pod of burnouts ,hard launches and winning a trophy for longest wheelie ..I trust them as permanent repair .
 
ToothlessDrunk said:
I have a repair kit that uses mushroom rubber plugs and a gun to insert them into tyres . I have used it numerous times over the years and after rigorous testing inculding having three of them in a KTM 990 superduke rear tyre and a day at santa pod of burnouts ,hard launches and winning a trophy for longest wheelie ..I trust them as permanent repair .
I've certainly had those type of repairs many years ago, but no longer approved for road use.
 
Hi Jon.

I work in a tyre shop in Kington (we also used to be HiQ in Ludlow).

We can get repairs professionally done to shoulder / sidewall areas, which cannot be safely done with "mushrooms".

The cost is about £30, although we do not do it in house, so the turnaround is a week.
 
Fandango said:
Hi Jon.

I work in a tyre shop in Kington (we also used to be HiQ in Ludlow).

We can get repairs professionally done to shoulder / sidewall areas, which cannot be safely done with "mushrooms".

The cost is about £30, although we do not do it in house, so the turnaround is a week.
Good to know!

Does this sort of repair cause any performance aspects of the tyre to be degraded (speed, load rating, whatever)?

By the way, those part-worn tyres you sold me when we met at The Nelson (just outside Ludlow) gave me several years of good use!
 
The load and speed rating remains.

The repair is just to the rubber, they are rejected, and deemed as scrap, if there is cord damage.

Good to know you got some mileage out of those part worns.

Cheers
 
Jon_G said:
I've certainly had those type of repairs many years ago, but no longer approved for road use.
I used to be a Tyre fitter, car and commercial in the late 70s and 80s when repairs such as patches and mushroom plugs where used but did here that mushroom plugs where made illegal due to the steel cords shredding the plug!

At the time a tyre if almost new could be sent back to the manufacturers for a special repair if you were willing to pay the price which was pretty high then.
 
F6HAD said:
Yes they look dubious but I covered major miles on two different cars and it was bang on, never lost pressure and no issues. It's pretty amazing, once you screw the adhesive strip into the hole,
It just uses the heat from the tyre being driven to melt itself into a permanent and tight seal.
I used to carry a dynaplug kit under the seat of my road going motorcycle, and in the car. Was cleaner to repair a tyre and stick the compressor on it than to swap the wheel over on the car, and no other option on the bike (along with CO2 cartridges for tyre inflation.

You just load the tool and punch it through the tyre as many times as necessary to plug the hole. Cut the excess off and keep going.
 
As above , but as a motorcycle recovery driver up to a few years ago, on a main road speed would be a lifesaver based on the law of averages.

Quite often the owner would sign the disclaimer once the tyre was inflated and keep onto their destination rather than be driven/escorted back to base for a more permanent solution.

The mushrooms I fitted were good for up to around 4mm holes, I witnessed two of the latest victims to e-cigarettes, where the discarded metal shell would penetrate the tyre end on, deflating instantly and jamming the wheel on the second rotation into the mudguard. Nasty things.
 
Jon_G said:
Last week I suffered yet another puncture.. that's now a total of six in the last 18 months,
Unlike the days of cross-plys six punctures in eighteen months is way over average. I would be more interested in the cause than cure.
 
Ned said:
Unlike the days of cross-plys six punctures in eighteen months is way over average. I would be more interested in the cause than cure.
Fair point, but no common link that I can see. Other than the blow-out the punctures have been caused by a random selection of metal objects (nail, screw, bolt, wire...). Statistically it would appear that I've been unlucky, but sometimes infrequent events do happen in clusters.

We also own an MR2 and that's never had a puncture in 14 years, so maybe I can take solace from that?

Maybe I'm being targeted by the neighbours because I'm such a miserable b*!_t#*d?
 
Hahaha. I want to post up the old Viz advert for tyre nails, but the language isn't suitable.

Few years back, I had 3 in 4 weeks. Worked out pretty expensive as they were all on the motorwaý in the Subaru.
40 profile runflat tyres, AWD, and 50 miles of motorway to work meant i couldnt even tell i had a flat till the tyre would break up and start a vibration. Picked something up on the nearside rear every time.

Only ever had one in 14 years before that, and not had one in the 3 years since.
 
Jon_G said:
Fair point, but no common link that I can see. Other than the blow-out the punctures have been caused by a random selection of metal objects (nail, screw, bolt, wire...). Statistically it would appear that I've been unlucky, but sometimes infrequent events do happen in clusters.

We also own an MR2 and that's never had a puncture in 14 years, so maybe I can take solace from that?

Maybe I'm being targeted by the neighbours because I'm such a miserable b*!_t#*d?
When I was dispatching in the 80's I bought a Metztzer rear tyre under duress when the local dealer ran out of Pirelli Mandrakes. In two weeks I got five punctures, all different nail /screw tyes and in different parts of London so I knew it wasn't saboutage.

I could only deduce that the tyres internal carcass turned magnetic during normal rotation.
 
Channel Hopper said:
I could only deduce that the tyres internal carcass turned magnetic during normal rotation.
Like Scalextric, Metzelers with magnatraction.
 
Accord monster truck?
 
I never actually had a puncture, ever. Been driving since the 90s, only time i had to do a wheel change was once when i went over a crater pot hole in Kerry (Ireland where i am from for those who dont know), the other time i had to change 2 front wheels of my old Honda Civic Coupe SR when i blew both front tyres in a car park some how (dont ask, crater pot holes again...)

in terms of punctures, cant recall any. I always buy good rubber :ph34r: :wacko: not sure does that make a difference, i never skimp on a good tyre, only thing between the car and the road, checked the tyres of the subaru since they need to be matched and saw 4 falken with nearly all thread so that was good enough for me.
 
Goodluckmonkey said:
Accord monster truck?
I'm certain that there is a formula for a honeycombed material, that can be inserted like the wall cavity filler, that stays in an elastic state when under around 40 psi, at temperatures between -20 and +80 C, does not corrode vulcanised rubber or alloy/steel and acts as air would (or better) during the 10/20k mile lifecycle. Only the tyre manufacturers and highways agencies/recovery companies are keeping it from public release.
 
Channel Hopper said:
I'm certain that there is a formula for a honeycombed material, that can be inserted like the wall cavity filler, that stays in an elastic state when under around 40 psi, at temperatures between -20 and +80 C, does not corrode vulcanised rubber or alloy/steel and acts as air would (or better) during the 10/20k mile lifecycle. Only the tyre manufacturers and highways agencies/recovery companies are keeping it from public release.
I wouldn't be surprised... pneumatic tyre technology seems practically medieval.
 
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