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Accord 2006 2.2 I cdti hot starting problem


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#1 Njb5000

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Posted 03 May 2017 - 07:18 PM

Hi I've recently bought a 2006 2.2 I cdti Accord tourer with 150k on the clock, the car starts fine from cold and runs really well but after stoping and trying to restart it takes a lot longer to start it always starts again but how long this will last I do not know. Any ideas thanks Nick

#2 Jon_G

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Posted 03 May 2017 - 07:54 PM

This is usually the fuel rail over-pressure valve is leaking, which prevents the fuel pump being able to raise fuel pressure to the 200 bar minimum at cranking speed. This is the best thread on the subject, but unfortunately the initial pictures are missing... http://www.civinfo.c...2-2-i-ctdi.html

Basically there is a valve on the driver's side end of the fuel rail that should never be passing fuel... You need to remove it's discharge pipe (and block that loose pipe) then reroute the valve discharge into a container to see if fuel is flowing out. If it is, then a new Bosch valve can be bought from eBay for less than £100. If the valve isn't leaking (which is a common fault) then the other possibility is one or more of the fuel injectors has an excessive leak-back flow - actually another easyish DIY test, but definitely check the rail over-pressure valve first!
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#3 F6HAD

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Posted 03 May 2017 - 08:27 PM

^^ exactly this.
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#4 Njb5000

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Posted 03 May 2017 - 10:07 PM

Thanks I will do the test and hope this works many thanks

#5 Jon_G

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Posted 04 May 2017 - 05:19 AM

Please do let us know how you get on.

#6 Njb5000

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Posted 04 May 2017 - 04:30 PM

Will do I'm doing the test over this weekend I will be extremely happy if it is the pressure valve as I love the car to bits.

#7 Jon_G

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Posted 04 May 2017 - 04:34 PM

Good luck with it.



#8 Njb5000

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Posted 06 May 2017 - 03:08 PM

Update on fuel pressure valve. I did the test today and diesel pasted through the valve almost as it was a fuel pump itself. I put a pipe on the valve outlet into a cup and started the car, immediately fuel poured up the pipe and into the cup so I'm assuming it's nackered . I will order one and get it fitted and hopefully that will be the end of my problems, the only thing to note was I tried to loosen the valve bolt with a ring spanner and not a chance it's ****** tight and can't get a socket on it. There is a pulley wheel held on with two bolts that if removed could give more access I might just let my local garage to do it as they are very reasonable price wise . Thanks to Jon g for advice.
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#9 Jon_G

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Posted 06 May 2017 - 06:02 PM

If fuel was coming out of the metal outlet on the fuel rail then there's your problem! It should only ever pass fuel in the event that the fuel rail over-pressurises due to a fault condition.

 

They are usually reported to be very tight to shift, but decent tools go a long way to making it a reasonable DIY. You'll save money AND feel like a hero if you fix it yourself, but don't skimp on the tools if you need to buy decent spanners or sockets (6-point are better for tight nuts in an awkward location, I think it's a 17mm AF but do check by trying a spanner on it for positive confirmation).

 

Either way, please let us know when it's fixed.


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#10 Njb5000

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Posted 10 May 2017 - 07:22 PM

Hi final update on my problem, I'm pleased to report valve turned up today it cost £92 from a deisel specialist I also bought a six point 17 mm spanner to loosen bolt. I fitted valve and​ the car now works perfectly , it seems to accelerate slot better and now starts spot on when hot. Thanks again for the advice I'm sure I will be using the forum slot more in the future.
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#11 Njb5000

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Posted 10 May 2017 - 07:23 PM

Allot sorry not slot.

#12 Jon_G

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Posted 10 May 2017 - 07:33 PM

Thanks for reporting back. Glad it was good news!



#13 Gerze

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Posted 07 June 2017 - 12:33 PM

Hi folks and thanks for taking the time to put info up for us newbies.
I am having a starting problem with my 07 2.2 icdti accord.
The car may or may not start at any time hot or cold and somtimes will start ok all day and somtimes might not start a few minutes after switching off after a long or short drive...however
it will start each and every time hot or cold after priming it with the priming ball.
So pressure is going somewhere.I have tried the overpressure valve test as described in a post/ link here and it would appear ok ... any suggestions on best way forward to either eliminate or source potential problems... many thanks Gerze

Edited by Gerze, 07 June 2017 - 12:37 PM.


#14 Gerze

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Posted 07 June 2017 - 12:45 PM

Sorry have just read the part about injector leakback..so I will keep looking and see if I can find how to do that test .. thanks Gerze

Edited by Gerze, 07 June 2017 - 12:46 PM.


#15 Jon_G

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Posted 07 June 2017 - 05:46 PM

Another member recently had to replace an injector after the leak-back test revealed his problem with poor starting. More info on this (and replacing the failed injector) here... http://typeaccord.co...ack#entry243814

#16 Gerze

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 04:57 PM

Hi an update on my starting problem ... having checked the pressure valve on the fuel rail it appears ok and have just tried the injector leakback test ... the difference in fuel return from each injector was minimal after 2 minutes so I allowed the car to idle for ten minutes .. if I can workout how to upload the pic and vid I will.

Edited by Gerze, 13 June 2017 - 04:57 PM.


#17 Jon_G

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 05:49 PM

If use of the priming ball always allows the engine to start ok then this suggests that fuel in the fuel line is draining back into the tank when the engine is stopped. This is likely to be due to a leak on the fuel supply side of the fuel filter/primer bulb. Maybe something was left loose last time the fuel filter was replaced?

#18 Shifty6Speed

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Posted 25 August 2017 - 09:48 PM

This is usually the fuel rail over-pressure valve is leaking, which prevents the fuel pump being able to raise fuel pressure to the 200 bar minimum at cranking speed. This is the best thread on the subject, but unfortunately the initial pictures are missing... http://www.civinfo.c...2-2-i-ctdi.html

Basically there is a valve on the driver's side end of the fuel rail that should never be passing fuel... You need to remove it's discharge pipe (and block that loose pipe) then reroute the valve discharge into a container to see if fuel is flowing out. If it is, then a new Bosch valve can be bought from eBay for less than £100. If the valve isn't leaking (which is a common fault) then the other possibility is one or more of the fuel injectors has an excessive leak-back flow - actually another easyish DIY test, but definitely check the rail over-pressure valve first!

Jon... Could this possibly be causing my high fuel consumption?



#19 Jon_G

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Posted 26 August 2017 - 05:58 AM

Jon... Could this possibly be causing my high fuel consumption?

No, the 'spillage' from the fuel rail over-pressure valve is returned to the fuel tank. So no actual loss.

 

In my experience, excessive fuel consumption can be:-

 

The IMRC valve being in the wrong position, usually because it's actuator is leaky (but this will cause the MIL to come on)

 

Rear brakes binding (certainly a common problem on tourer models)

 

The EGR valve failing to fully close (usually accompanied by a smoky exhaust).

 

Do you ever get an engine warning light? do the rear discs get excessively hot after a run?





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