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Whining/Siren sound from Engine Bay

DJSR

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Location
Barnet
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Accord 2.2i CTDI
Hi all,
I've just started to get this whining/siren sound coming from the engine on a cold start which i believe is the turbo, the sound only kicks in when i put my foot down a bit and the sound gets louder at around 2000rpm. I had the turbo reconditioned about 18 months ago plus i had the car remapped with egr off. When I have driven the car for a bit and its heated up, the sound becomes much lower but still noticeable.
I took the car to the garage who reconditioned and fitted my turbo and he is blaming it on the egr being off and that a vacuum solenoid and another solenoid is not functioning correctly so the turbo isnt working at 100%.

Has anyone experienced or know anything about this please? The car still drives like normal and has plenty of power, no engine lights on all clear, although the car is eating a bit extra oil, just before the last service the car was drinking the oil a lot more as the oil got towards the end of its life.
Cheers.
(2008 Accord 2.2i CTDi)
 
Hard to accurately diagnose such things remotely like this, but your description of the problem - specifically the noise and oil consumption - sounds EXACTLY like a failing turbo shaft bearing to me.

if a vacuum solenoid had failed then the ***ociated engine sub-system would not be functioning correctly. Then the engine management warning light would come on.

If you have a high oil consumption because of a failing turbo shaft bearing then you are at risk of catastrophic diesel runaway... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel_engine_runaway
 
Jon_G said:
Hard to accurately diagnose such things remotely like this, but your description of the problem - specifically the noise and oil consumption - sounds EXACTLY like a failing turbo shaft bearing to me.

if a vacuum solenoid had failed then the ***ociated engine sub-system would not be functioning correctly. Then the engine management warning light would come on.

If you have a high oil consumption because of a failing turbo shaft bearing then you are at risk of catastrophic diesel runaway... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel_engine_runaway
Hi Jon, thanks for the reply.

According to the wikipedia link, it tells me the engine draws extra fuel from an unintended source and overspeeds at higher and higher RPM until destroyed by mechanical failure or bearing seizure through lack of lubrication.

Could this be caused by the remap/egr off ? or Would you recommend replacing the turbo unit completely?

Cheers
 
DJSR said:
Hi Jon, thanks for the reply.

According to the wikipedia link, it tells me the engine draws extra fuel from an unintended source and overspeeds at higher and higher RPM until destroyed by mechanical failure or bearing seizure through lack of lubrication.

Could this be caused by the remap/egr off ? or Would you recommend replacing the turbo unit completely?

Cheers
You haven't yet suffered catastrophic diesel runaway, that link was merely to show to you what MIGHT happen IF your engine obtains a source of fuel from an unintended source, e.g. drawing engine oil through a very worn (and therefore leaking) turbo shaft bearing seals.

I cannot see how your current 'siren noise' problem could possibly be caused by the 'EGR off' remap.

IF the turbo bearing was worn so badly that it was making a siren noise and causing high engine oil consumption then I would definitely want to replace the turbo BEFORE more serious damage happened (such as catastrophic diesel runaway, which would almost certainly destroy your entire engine).

Did you get any sort of warranty with that recon turbo?

I'm speculating, but it wouldn't be the first time that an original turbo has failed, but then the replacement fails shortly afterwards. This is often because the underlying fault was/is a blockage in the oil feed pipe to the turbo shaft bearing that has never been cleared.
 
I only got a 12 month warranty with the reconditioned turbo which was fitted 18 months ago.

it looks like i will be buying another turbo Jon, as it looks like the previous turbo was rebuilt poorly or as you say there is still a blockage in the pipe.

I'm just a bit stuck with where to get it fitted, i've found a place near me in london who rebuilds turbo's and has had good feedback from their customers.

If you got time, take a look at this reconditioned turbo company Jon and let me know what you think, or would you know anywhere to get decent turbo?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221649274874?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Cheers
 
Not a bad price and their eBay feedback is good and I see you'd get a 24-month warranty. So should be OK.

If you do fit a new turbo then do make sure that the oil feed pipe is properly checked for signs of blockage.

Although I'd bet a small amount that your turbo has failed, I'd still want confirmation before replacing it. Here's a YT vidclip put up (I think by this TypeAccord member... http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/user/3725-wing/) showing the play that he had on his Accord turbo:-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5nfzsmbVGRY
 
DJSR said:
Hi all,
I've just started to get this whining/siren sound coming from the engine on a cold start which i believe is the turbo, the sound only kicks in when i put my foot down a bit and the sound gets louder at around 2000rpm. I had the turbo reconditioned about 18 months ago plus i had the car remapped with egr off. When I have driven the car for a bit and its heated up, the sound becomes much lower but still noticeable.
I took the car to the garage who reconditioned and fitted my turbo and he is blaming it on the egr being off and that a vacuum solenoid and another solenoid is not functioning correctly so the turbo isnt working at 100%.

Has anyone experienced or know anything about this please? The car still drives like normal and has plenty of power, no engine lights on all clear, although the car is eating a bit extra oil, just before the last service the car was drinking the oil a lot more as the oil got towards the end of its life.
Cheers.
(2008 Accord 2.2i CTDi)
For the cost of the fluid alone, I would change the oil for something cheap and cheerful (keeping the old stuff if recently replaced) run around for an hour or so, check for any change in noise and the colour when you drain it back out.

Did the garage carry out the checks with a diagnostic tool and have you got the numbers confirming what they found wrt the solenoid etc ?
 
Channel Hopper said:
For the cost of the fluid alone, I would change the oil for something cheap and cheerful (keeping the old stuff if recently replaced) run around for an hour or so, check for any change in noise and the colour when you drain it back out.

Did the garage carry out the checks with a diagnostic tool and have you got the numbers confirming what they found wrt the solenoid etc ?
Hi Stephen, thanks for the reply.

I only had the oil changed 3000 miles ago and i always use Castrol ***anium 0-30w.

The garage did carry out a diagnostic check and said the Vacuum Solenoid (139700-0870 - No. 087 on the unit isnt working) and the other solenoid at the back of the engine which i think is 101362-4890 - No. 489. He wouldnt give me much other information and blamed egr being blocked.
 
Yes that is whine from turbo as
Others have said rebuild or replace

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honda_saj said:
Yes that is whine from turbo as
Others have said rebuild or replace

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Cheers for the reply Sajeel, How much life is left in it do you reckon??
 
Ebay turbo seems good

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DJSR said:
Cheers for the reply Sajeel, How much life is left in it do you reckon??
can't say could be a month or six months order replacement and keep that when it packs up crawl home and get replaced if you want to run it till it dies or replace for piece of mind (my recommendation) remember if you lose turbo and are far from home it will drive gutless.

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DJSR said:
I've just made a video recording of the sound, click link below.

20170518_113513.mp4
I can hear the - usual - whine throughout, but about halfway and 2/3 of the recording you have a secondary lower noise that cuts in at a specific engine speed, not heard that before on any turbo.

Is there any blue/white smoke from the exhaust ?
 
Channel Hopper said:
I can hear the - usual - whine throughout, but about halfway and 2/3 of the recording you have a secondary lower noise that cuts in at a specific engine speed, not heard that before on any turbo.

Is there any blue/white smoke from the exhaust ?
I get smoke on a cold start, mainly white smoke.
 
I've just spoken to my mechanic and he is telling me to purchase a new oil pressure pipe with the turbo, are these main dealer only ??
 
recon turbo - £240 , labour £280 , Oil Pressure Pipe - ??? (honda only part, they've gonna kill me !!! They wanted £240 just for high pressure power steering pipe!)

No Holiday for me this year, thanks car! lol

EDIT: Just spoke to Honda - Oil Pressure pipe £40....maybe i can go on holiday now! lol

(just out of curiosity i asked honda how much a new turbo would be - £2k lol bye)
 
Jon_G said:
Is that Honda quote from Holdcroft Honda with our exclusive TA forum discount?
No its not, that was Bushy Honda, whats the discount code please Jon, i'll give them a call, but will they charge for delivery? cheers
 
DJSR said:
No its not, that was Bushy Honda, whats the discount code please Jon, i'll give them a call, but will they charge for delivery? cheers
There is a forum discount code, obtainable from admin or mods via PM... I can't simply post it here or non-members will see it! If you can't get a quick reply from, say, Stevearcade, then PM me and I'll let you know (unless I get instructed by a mod not to).

Some members of the HH parts dept are also TA members. When calling HH it's best to speak with Gareth or Lee (at least it once was).
 
Hi guys. I'm new to Honda but not new to cars. Look OP before you jump in and blow a load of money on another turbo just chill out a bit. A worn turbo WILL blow blue smoke out the exhaust long before the catastrophic runaway doom scenario suggested earlier. White smoke has nothing to do with turbo. If it's a bit of white on a morning it's a bit of condensation in exhaust.

If your car suddenly does start revving by itself, stall it and don't restart. I'm not trying to be an *** but until you see blue smoke continually that doesn't clear, and the car isn't using it, forget about the turbo. That noise isn't DEFINITELY the turbo. It's engine speed related. Check all pulleys etc. Get someone else to rev and go listen to where it comes from. Worn pulley, split hose, goodness knows what else could probably be likely culprits. If you don't know enough yourself seek some advice from someone you trust before throwing hundreds at it. Also, and sorry for the suck eggs thing but always let your engine idle for 20 seconds or more before switching off. It helps cool the turbo. Probably more important in your case as you've had EGR removed. EGR valves reduce exhaust gas temperature...

The noise might be your turbo and it might not. With no lack of performance and no blue smoke I'd put money on not (as in its not dying).
 
Thanks for the info Guy, its much appreciated and always good to have another opinion. I am still looking into this and the car is going in for a diagnostic on Thursday to find the cause of the problem. And thanks for the link.
 
I was just having a conversation with the mechanic who is going to check my car on Thursday, and he is telling me that with all diesel cars, as they age they need a different grade of oil. He is telling me to use 10w-40 Castrol Magnitec. Someone on this thread mentioned to try a change of oil and listen for a change in the sound. I was also told that the turbo is over working/constantly spinning due to the remap done on the car. Just letting you know what i've been told so far.
 
He is very wrong about the oil...

Magnatec is a hydro-cracked mineral oil, NOT a true synthetic oil and so will give less protection (Castrol's true synthetic oil is the more expensive 'Edge').

The 10w cold rating will result in the oil taking far longer to circulate when the engine is first started in cold conditions.

The 40 operating viscosity might have some merit if the engine is burning oil due to worn piston rings or valve guides. But it will put more load on the oil pump, so harming economy and, most worrying, put more stress on the oil pump drive chain (which has a reputation for weakness).

Despite what is said in early owners manuals, the only Honda recommendation for these engines is a fully synthetic 0w-30. Personally that's all I'd ever use, and not just because Honda say so.
 
Agree with you jon on this one

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