What's new

Today I have been mostly..........new intermediate driveshaft fitting.

Goodluckmonkey

TA Friends
Messages
1,621
Reaction score
411
Location
Kent
Car
CN2
Been putting this off for ages because I hardly use the car any more.
Not too bad a job, as i got it done in 2 and a half hours, but then again, I didn't stop for tea breaks.

1) unstake the hub nut and remove it (with the wheel back on the car and on the ground. I use a BFO 3/4" drive breaker bar and a large impact socket.



2) undo the drop link - use a jack to raise the suspension to align the anti-roll-bar to remove it.



3) undo hub from bottom arm - I like to back the arm up off the (undone but still fitted) balljoint nut so that the suspension is trying to separate the two components, then give the arm a nice big whack with a hammer, and plop, they're apart.

 
4) undo the strut from the bottom arm and pull the hub off the driveshaft splines, swing the hub out of the way.



5) This is where you need tomdo.a little prep - sort out all your swear words in advance, they'll be useful in the next two parts. I like the classics myself, the F-bomb, the C-word, and calling it a MF! Combinations are worth double, so will impress the neighbours more.
Remove the driveshaft!!! Usually they pop out alright using a tyre lever, but this one wouldn't have any of it.
In the end I realised that the rear engine mount has a hole through it that would allow me to get an old 1/2" extension bar up against the back of the driveshaft cup. Couple of belts with the mallet and it all moved.



6) undo the 3 bolts holding the intermediate shaft bearing carrier to the block, and slide the shaft out of the diff.
These are pig's to get to, but you cam get them out with the right combinations of sockets and extensions, and a UJ for the lower left one.

 
7) Make like the Haynes manual and install in the reverse order to ***embly.

No tricks, it actually is just the way. I actually put the intermediate and outer driveshafts together as a pair on the ground so I could fit them as one unit. My reason for doing this was that as they were a pair, and off a low miler that'd had an accident. (Also of a facelift 6-speed going into my pre f/l 5-speed) they were marked where they were aligned, and I wanted to keep them like that as they had obviously worn in together.
Doing this meant a little more juggling, as I had to ensure that the strut lower was straddling the driveshaft as I put the ***embly in.

The usual, clean all the splines, then molygrease everything, and ensure that the junction of the driveshaft and the hub is clean, rust free, and lightly greased.

Otherwise, it's not too bad a job, you don't even need to remove the undertray.

The slight low-frequency vibration my car has had is now gone, as is the mild 20mph vibe it used to have. Doesn't clink going from reverse to forward any more either - a few hours well spent :)
 
Excellent guide - you make it sound easy
With regards to the swearing it's often jobs like this where new ones are born lol I like to get creative and just let it flow.
Had my neighbour pop over laughing one day asking what a f""" biscuit was when changing the radiator in my old scoob
 
Hahaha. I have to let them out somewhere as I've never sworn infront of my kids, and working in the building industry for years means I have such a potty mouth.

Fortunately the whole front end of my car comes apart so easily nowadays. Being a farm boy growing up, I worship at the altar of the copper grease, and have a penchant for clean threads on bolts.
It just makes doing jobs like this so much nicer as I know I won't be fighting suspension components.
 
Hello,

I see this was posted ages ago but I need to replace intermediate and outer shaft on my 2004 Honda Accord Tourer (2.0l Auto). The shaft has play in it and I suspect it is responsible for vibration I get through the accelerator pedal at speed and a lumpy feeling at low speeds sometimes as it is turning out of round. I was wondering if ATF fluid comes out when you remove the intermediate shaft from the transmission. Is it necessary to have ATF fluid in order to top up the level when finished with this? I would really appreciate any insight.

-Johann
 
Doesn't clink going from reverse to forward any more either - a few hours well spent :)
Great write up! Interesting you mention the clink/clunk when switching from forward to reverse.Mines a 2.0 auto and has always driven perfectly but i do sometimes get that as said.Should i be concerned about my driveshafts? Never had any vibrations at any speeds or loads but if its possible i have an imminent failure on my hands id like to be aware.Would welcome your thoughts.
 
Top