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Engine Management Light

blueagle

blueagle

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Messages
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7
Location
Buckinghamshire
Car
GT 2.2 i-CTDI
Engine Management light came on over the weekend and I took it to my local mechanic. He's informed me "manifold is blocked". While driving there ABS and VSA lights also popped up. Turns out rear right sensor needs replacing.
I've had a look at few other threads and it seems like cleaning manifold is a big job. I haven't given my car yet because I haven't had time to drop it at my mechanic's garage. Also I need to buy a new sensor, one of the guy there suggested ebay but I'm not sure if that's sensible?
My car's aircon isn't working either and an aircon specialist had advised me that I need to replace "clutch coil". Does that sound right to you gents? OR shall I get a full compressor from ebay from one of the breakers?
 
What is the error code?

I bought my japanparts wheel sensor from eBay seller Mick's Garage... Works fine.

If your aircon problem has been confidently diagnosed as the compressor clutch coil (solenoid) then that's all you need.
 
As above, ask the mechanic for the engine codes , the manifold would have to be severely clogged up to bring on the EML (without checking the thread where several people cleaned the manifold I'm sure there wasn't EML involved).

Prices for OEM compressor and parts here --> http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection?block_01=17SEA701&block_02=B__5701&block_03=3165&block_05=hcr

compressor = £1050
comp clutch = £350

Ask the aircon bloke how much he can get it for, complete compressors from breakers are usually about £150 with warranty
 
I got a wheel sensor from ebay, still working fine a year or so later.
If you change I would advise against drilling out, I tried this and was a mess (and risk damage of more expensive parts)
I ended up removing the hub only 5 mins and 6 more bolts and means you can just push out from the inside, wish I had done that to start with.
 
Thanks for prompt replies gents.

I don't have the error code from diagnostics.
I'll call Honda Holdcroft tomorrow and if price difference is too much then I'll get the sensor from ebay. Ian I won't be changing it myself, would give the car to my mechanic.
Jon the guy who diagnosed the clutch coil is an aircon specialist mechanic so I'm confident he knew what he was talking about. He had quoted me £112 for the part from Honda but 3 hours labour?
 
You do really need the error code. There is no 'blocked manifold' code, so this is merely someone's interpretation/suggestion of why a certain code has been registered. While manifolds do harmlessly coke up a bit, there is a large tolerance until it could become any sort of problem and I've never heard of it causing a fault code to be raised (maybe MAF out of range code?).
 
3 hours labour to remove a compressor, install the new clutch into it, then refit and regas is probably about right.

But, the aircon on the diesel is very different from mainstream aircon (such as on the accord petrol models) The reason why the compressor clutch isn't engaging could be down to a faulty relay or a faulty pressure sensor. Before you go ahead, make sure that you get a written quote that if replacing the compressor clutch doesn't solve the problem, then he finds the fault and fixes it free of charge.
 
I can't get hold of my mechanic and I'm trying to avoid dealer because they'll be very costly.
Does anyone know any good independent honda specialist in or around Slough/Maidenhead area?
 
Got the car fixed on Friday. He took out a lot of black gunk from the inlet manifold. Though the engine management light popped up again while I was driving home. Taking it back to him later today so he can look at it again.
Got the ABS sensor from Mick's garage from ebay and that's sorted now so thanks Jon for the recommendation.
 
Glad the abs fault is fixed, but I'm not surprised that cleaning the inlet manifold failed to fix the engine warning light. Do let us know what the error code is and we can suggest a cure.
 
Jon_G said:
Glad the abs fault is fixed, but I'm not surprised that cleaning the inlet manifold failed to fix the engine warning light. Do let us know what the error code is and we can suggest a cure.
Click to expand...
I should had found out last time. But I'll definitely find it today and would let you know what the code is and then hopefully you'll be able to suggest the fix.
 
The code is P2004 with description "Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) Valve Incorrect Position.

So it seems its a common fault? If I provide Honda the error code would they be able to work out what I need and would they be able to give me quote for part and labour? Is there any reason why I should/shoudn't get this fitted by Honda?

One more thing, I need a new clutch coil (air con is not working at all). I'm thinking of getting the new coil and get it fitted whereas my mechanic is suggesting a whole compressor unit off ebay. What would you recommend?
 
P2004 is a very common fault and, yes, it's because the intake manifold runner control (IMRC) is in the wrong position (not ideal, but the engine will still run fine).

Almost always this is because the ***ociated actuator known as the frequency solenoid valve (an electro-vacuum regulator) has become faulty. If you remove the engine top cover it's the little block at the top/front of the engine with something like 'Delphi' 466' written on it (at least it is if yours is a pre-facelift, later FL models had a slightly different actuator). Takes about 10 minutes to replace (I've done mine twice!)

There is no way I could recommend taking the car to a Honda dealer. It's an old car, there is a danger that they'll needlessly replace everything ***ociated with the IMRC and the bill will be more than the car is worth. However, neither would I trust the guy who interpreted the P2004 as meaning your intake manifold needed cleaning...
 
As above, don't ever take a 7th gen to a Honda dealer, labour = £100 per hour and there's not much special about a 7th gen that an independent can't equally screw up (pun intended)


blueagle said:
One more thing, I need a new clutch coil (air con is not working at all). I'm thinking of getting the new coil and get it fitted whereas my mechanic is suggesting a whole compressor unit off ebay. What would you recommend?
Click to expand...
As below .........

freddofrog said:
Prices for OEM compressor and parts here --> http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection?block_01=17SEA701&block_02=B__5701&block_03=3165&block_05=hcr

compressor = £1050
comp clutch = £350

Ask the aircon bloke how much he can get it for, complete compressors from breakers are usually about £150 with warranty
Click to expand...

freddofrog said:
3 hours labour to remove a compressor, install the new clutch into it, then refit and regas is probably about right.

But, the aircon on the diesel is very different from mainstream aircon (such as on the accord petrol models) The reason why the compressor clutch isn't engaging could be down to a faulty relay or a faulty pressure sensor. Before you go ahead, make sure that you get a written quote that if replacing the compressor clutch doesn't solve the problem, then he finds the fault and fixes it free of charge.
Click to expand...

freddofrog said:
If you're into DIY there's very long thread here on diagnosing aircon problems --> http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/10382-diagnosing-aircon-problems/

As your car is diesel, make sure you read all of the first page

if it gets TLDR after the first page, skip to this point --> http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/10382-diagnosing-aircon-problems/?p=232680 and read on from there
Click to expand...
 
Jon_G said:
P2004 is a very common fault and, yes, it's because the intake manifold runner control (IMRC) is in the wrong position (not ideal, but the engine will still run fine).

Almost always this is because the ***ociated actuator known as the frequency solenoid valve (an electro-vacuum regulator) has become faulty. If you remove the engine top cover it's the little block at the top/front of the engine with something like 'Delphi' 466' written on it (at least it is if yours is a pre-facelift, later FL models had a slightly different actuator). Takes about 10 minutes to replace (I've done mine twice!)

There is no way I could recommend taking the car to a Honda dealer. It's an old car, there is a danger that they'll needlessly replace everything ***ociated with the IMRC and the bill will be more than the car is worth. However, neither would I trust the guy who interpreted the P2004 as meaning your intake manifold needed cleaning...
Click to expand...
I just rang Honda Stoke and they've quoted £131.93 for the frequency solenoid valve. Is this all I need?
 
No point wasting money on just replacing the solenoid valve, it's the actuator for the intake flap. It's burning out because your intake is blocked. The new one will just burn out again eventually.

Have the intake manifold properly cleaned out, and then blank the EGR to make sure it never happens again.
 
F6HAD said:
No point wasting money on just replacing the solenoid valve, it's the actuator for the intake flap. It's burning out because your intake is blocked. The new one will just burn out again eventually.

Have the intake manifold properly cleaned out, and then blank the EGR to make sure it never happens again.
Click to expand...
Hi Fahad, I had the intake manifold cleaned out.
I've ordered the valve. How do I blank the EGR? Are there any instructions on this forum?
 
blueagle said:
Hi Fahad, I had the intake manifold cleaned out.
I've ordered the valve. How do I blank the EGR? Are there any instructions on this forum?
Click to expand...
You can't just blank it... you also need to have the engine software modified so that the lack of EGR flow doesn't bring on the engine warning light. Contact Fahad for details, it's what he does.
 
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