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Another ABS/VSA pump, again

C

Channel Hopper

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Accord 7 Estate 2005
Another thread on the replacement and setting up of a replacement ABS/VSA pump (ATE 60) in the Gen 7 tourer (diesel).

This was an eBay purchase, the only one in the UK (the other was in Lithuania) and was it seems a bargain at just over £70 delivered.

The auction stated 'fully working' and since fitting the VSA light has gone out, but the hazard light still remains. I am checking to see if I have screwed something up but with the main warning light out at least I can relax.

Two codes have appeared after reconnecting the battery

(2-6) which I can clear with the wire across pins 4 and 9, and
8-4, which remains after clearing down.

I will post images later of the dismantle, but I was able to remove and replace with the headlight and bumper in place, done by taking the additional bracket under the module at the same time, which is actually rather easy. Total time including topping up the fluid and short test run - three and a half hours from a standing start.

I think I will still have to bleed the brakes unless a period of rest pushes the air back up the pipes.

So, what is the code above ?
 
84 is the code for the system requiring the neutralisation procedure to be carried out.

It's all in Freddofrog's comprehensive post sometime in the last month, the one where the thread ***le looks like the warning lights.

Well done for doing this job. Hopefully the bleeding will become easier... do look up the correct wheel order for this!
 
Good that it's not showing the dreaded 66-1 any more.

The used unit I bought was just as broken as my original, so had to go back. Lost all enthusiasm for fixing it.
 
Jon_G said:
84 is the code for the system requiring the neutralisation procedure to be carried out.

It's all in Freddofrog's comprehensive post sometime in the last month, the one where the thread ***le looks like the warning lights.

Well done for doing this job. Hopefully the bleeding will become easier... do look up the correct wheel order for this!
Click to expand...
Thanks, and yes, it was in the back of my mind (or at least in the phone)
There may not be too much bleeding, if any as I kept the lid on the reservoir during the procedure and disconnected the pipes after loosening everything else on the module for removal, and connected them back up first. The pedal didn't feel bad at all after I let gravity do its stuff on each union after topping up the fluid.

Will try the neutralising in an hour.

Images later tonight
 
Jon_G said:
84 is the code for the system requiring the neutralisation procedure to be carried out.

It's all in Freddofrog's comprehensive post sometime in the last month, the one where the thread ***le looks like the warning lights.

Well done for doing this job. Hopefully the bleeding will become easier... do look up the correct wheel order for this!
Click to expand...
There's a "Blble" thread in "Honda Accord Chat" section, thread ***le "OBD2 , SCS, ABS/VSA" with everything one needs to know about OBD2, SCS, and ABS/VSA --> http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/23543-obd2-scs-absvsa/

In the 3rd post there's a link to all the ABS/VSA codes, and also a link to the method for clearing code 84.

There's also a thread on the brakes-bleeding order --> http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/23481-bleeding-brakes/
 
Code cleared and.............no light :D

My usual uploading site - Imagebam - has closed , what do others use for multi-image links ?

(Last question - what is the 2-6 code that I cleared down earlier)
 
Channel Hopper said:
Code cleared and.............no light :D
Click to expand...
excellent :D


Channel Hopper said:
My usual uploading site - Imagebam - has closed , what do others use for multi-image links ?
Click to expand...
Photobucket (but it's getting ultra-heavy and slow due to advertising)
Google docs
Onedrive


Channel Hopper said:
(Last question - what is the 2-6 code that I cleared down earlier)
Click to expand...
In #6, follow the first link , in which you find "Once you have the codes ...."
 
There's a yaw and lateral acceleration sensor unit somewhere in the car and since you were able to clear it, presumably spurious for some reason.
 
I did mention in the earlier thread I wasn't particularly happy at the look of the connector block when sitting on the old module, if only Honda had made the loom long enough to allow connection before fitting I could have checked on the dashboard prior to the full stripdown.
 
The key to a quickish swopover (and without taking a lot of the car apart is to retain the support bracket underneath the module, which is held onto the chassis with just three bolts, two can be removed with a long reach socket, the third is on its side and can be undone with a small ring spanner or 1/4 inch rachet.
DltpVaJ.jpg
 
Lifting and moving the steering fluid reservior over next to the radiator gives better access overall. Undoing as many of the aircon securing point back to the windscreen allows the piping to be lifted by about an inch, which is just enough to feed the module and black bracket out next to the compressor belt and pulleys.

p6jyuXa.jpg
 
And the self bleeding of the top pipes from the reservoir once the cap is removed. Once the air bubbles stop, nip up the union. Then do the same for the smaller pipes to each corner, the module fills itself over about ten minutes.

1nvMvog.jpg
 
Hi, not always on the forums, had a second failure of brake module failure myself, first repaired by decent outfit but failed again, money back under warranty but could not source a new module quickly, ended up with ATP in Cannock, changed module parts over while I waited, same as Steven, took the module out the top, but removed aux belt and alternator, likewise 1 1/2 hour out and slightly longer to back in with brake bleed. You can do other jobs if needed tis way, change aux belt to shortened length for the mod, remove and clean erg valve, check bearings in alternator, air con pump etc. Would upload pics but mac not playing ball with this site.

If sourcing the the module body separately check the number stamped in the body, i.e. 211 was the spec for me.
 
I did try both the usual suspects on a repair, or a swopout before going down the eBay route, but one failed to respond at all, and the other was adamant I could only apply for the repair via an 'approved' garage, and not the motorcycle workshop I have worked for. The ten day turnaround was also somewhat longer than I had expected.

The seller did photograph from all angles, confirming the Honda and ATE part numbers as being the same as the one in the car, and the connector pin layout was correct.

As mentioned earlier there were only two that I could see on the auction site at the time.

I now have a spare in the box of bits of known history, I can send off for a fix (or have a go at myself) when needs must.
 
It maybe me, is your aux drive belt the longer version?, looking at your pics you have the spare pulley just above the alternator pulley?.
 
To be honest I haven't looked that closely, the car has done 155k with it like it is. I can't hear anything worrying from that area.
 
There's a Honda update, change to a shorter belt and remove the spare pulley, supposed to lessen the load on the pulley's etc.

Changed mine for piece of mind as the girlfriends tights are not always available if it breaks :)

Bought a Gates version for around £20 from local parts supply. Used a 14mm combo spanner with approx 22mm combo on the other end for the leverage. tip, remove the hose bracket from the side of the brake module, this will give more room. a long piece of dowel or screwdrivers to edge the belt in place. takes about 10 mins, but if your happy with it leave alone.


http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/11712-7th-gen-new-aux-belt-alternator-diy/
 
yep the long belt is a truly bizarre routing on the early N22A and as said in the thread in the link above it puts a strain on the alternator pulley
 
OK, OK. I'll look into it. :D

Is the strain on the pulley down to any deviation from the standard tensioner specifications or a specific design deficiency ?
 
If you look at the routing diagram(s) in the thread(s) you'll see that the routing is just plain crazy
 
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