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Spaic

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Location
Leicester
Car
Accord
Hi all.the story is like this:

Had my timing kit replaced the other day.the guy somehow managed to crack the sump ang got it welded by a professional welder.today I went up to pick the car,started drove away ,everything nice and smooth.after an hour start it again and drove off to see how it is on a higher speed and all of a sudden glow plug light came on flashing and car going in limp mode.
Tester is saying P1065,which I know is related to fuel pressure.i had the fuel filter replaced probably 10k ago(Bosch) .sshould I take in consideration changing it again or is another problem due to injector removal ?
How much damage can do driving it with the glow plug flashing (I am at work and need to get home 7 miles)

Thanks
 
I think the people in the diesel helpdesk are otherwise occupied at the moment

helpdesk-tailgate-2015.png



Jon ?
Matt ?
Fahad ?
 
Allready took it back.he had a look at the fuel rail nuts and injectors.he was looking for signs of fuel that could give a low pressure like loose nuts or so.but everything nice and dry.
 
It's normally always a fuel filter, but given your injectors have been removed it may well be related to that.

Personally I would do the filter again first to eliminate it before you start chasing your tail.
 
P1065 is a bit of a vague problem (fuel pressure lower than expected). If you were getting a P0087 (low fuel pressure) as well it'd definitely point to the fuel filter. For reasons I don't understand the glowplug warning light comes on with low fuel rail pressure issues, but this can be ignored and the car is safe to drive.

Have you tried simply deleting the P1065? The fuel pipes are drained when the injectors are removed to fit new chains and pockets of air can linger and cause minor upsets like this.
 
Ah. Hopefully driving it around will allow the P1065 to be deleted and not return.

Otherwise I'm thinking than an injector was damaged during removal and now suffers an excessive 'leak back' condition where it returns fuel to the tank too quickly for the pump to maintain pressure. This is quite likely if the top part of the injector was unscrewed to allow a puller to be attached.
 
Refurbishment is possible, or fitting a secondhand one (as someone on TA recently did).

Is the P1065 still persistent?

Were the injectors removed using a puller?

How is the garage helping you with this problem they caused?
 
So,update on the problem that is getting more and more disturbing.
I had the fuel filter replaced today by myself (thanks to Matt's DIY filter change).still the same problem,still the same code.
During the filter changed I've noticed loads of shredded metal.
Called the guy and told him that I've changed the filter and it's still doing the same and asked him about the shredding.
He said that the thread on one of the injector came out when was removed and he fitted an proper insert.

I will take the car tomorrow for an injector back leaking test.and hopefully that is the problem that needs sorting.

Does the fuel pump nerds to be removed during the chain change?he said if the injectors are ok it might be the fuel pump (wich I don't think is faulty as it was tuning good before)
 
Don't need to touch the fuel pump to do a chain swap.

The injectors have to be removed to remove the cam cover.

If an injector has it's cap removed, its meant to go to a specialist for recalibration. There's also a tiny ball in there that's easily lost and re-fitting everything under the cap is quite the juggling act.
 
 
Goodluckmonkey said:
There's also a tiny ball in there that's easily lost and re-fitting everything under the cap is quite the juggling act.
 

Yes and that particular piece is shouldered if I recall correctly, put it in the wrong way and it way as well be missing altogether.
I'd go the 30 40 quid used injector and if ok, have it recoded.
 
Wanted to write an update of the situation yesterday but forgot.
Took the car yesterday morning for injector back leak and it came positive on injector no.1 (the one he fu**ed )Monday is going to be taken to a diesel specialist and hopefully I will have the car runing after 2 weeks
 
No. 1 is the one I found was sticky to remove in my replacement motor.

At least getting it returned will put an end to it all. Not cheap though!
 
Spaic said:
Wanted to write an update of the situation yesterday but forgot.
Took the car yesterday morning for injector back leak and it came positive on injector no.1 (the one he fu**ed )Monday is going to be taken to a diesel specialist and hopefully I will have the car runing after 2 weeks
You mentioned swarf - I ***ume - on the top of the engine last week. Did you keep it, or take clear pictures ?
 
You can still see it on top of the engine,but I have pictures too.
I had enough with this guy.i took the car in good condition and I will take it back with a cracked and welded sump,broken injector and engine head thread.
I know is an old car and Things can go wrong but this guy had them all.
:(
 
I don't see that him having to repair the threaded hole for the injector clamp bolt is anything to complain about! These things are prone to stripping and so he did what any mechanic would do and sorted the problem. Maybe he should have cleaned off the swarf though (and then you'd never have known). Same as the sump really, although I can't imagine how he broke that (mine came off with little excitement).

But while I'm sympathetic with your mechanic regarding the sump and thread repairs, he does appear to have wrecked your injector using an improper removal technique. And he really should be picking up the bill for that (and, as already mentioned, do ensure that the replacement injector is coded to the ECU afterwards).
 
Motors obviously been dropped to break the sump.
 
Yeah, good point. But I'm surprised he took it out... As per the Honda service manual I did my chains with the engine still in place (and took out the injectors without unscrewing the body).
 
Goodluckmonkey said:
Motors obviously been dropped to break the sump.
Not too sure about that. I've seen sumps broken for a variety of reasons, mainly during recovery on a lorry with specs, with too great a distance between the wheel spacer within the spec more so on a lowered car, the sump can catch the central bar when lifting. Knowing where the crack was of course would help..
 
Spaic said:
You can still see it on top of the engine,but I have pictures too.
I had enough with this guy.i took the car in good condition and I will take it back with a cracked and welded sump,broken injector and engine head thread.
I know is an old car and Things can go wrong but this guy had them all.
:(
Thanks. I did write something last week on an injector seal replacement here, and the original fitment torx bolt was nowhere to be seen. In the crud around the injector were some metallic bits, including what looked like a bit of 6mm thread coil, and the replacement Allen bolt also needed cleaning of approximately a turn and a half of the stuff. Whilst it is difficult to prove the exact cause, I almost made the mistake of leaving the penetrating fluid and coke in the blind hole when refitting injector 4, noticing immediate compression on the ratchet after about five turns or so, and the first piece of remaining thread disintegrating in the cavity.
Anyone using a 3/8 set to tighten it up without removing the liquid would not notice this and wreck the thread entirely. Not unlike fuel lock in a cylinder.

It may not have been the removal that caused the damage, but careless reassembly.

See if you can get an answer from the mechanic on the sump crack though, or post a picture
 
Channel Hopper said:
Not too sure about that. I've seen sumps broken for a variety of reasons, mainly during recovery on a lorry with specs, with too great a distance between the wheel spacer within the spec more so on a lowered car, the sump can catch the central bar when lifting. Knowing where the crack was of course would help..
Suppose anything's possible.

People normally break things when they drop them, or go "I'll just prop this here whole I pull the engine mounts out, then I'll have a brew and get the hoist"

Pull out a bolt, drop the motor an inch onto a stand and punch a hole in the casing.
 
Back again ,but...

This time with good news.First of all i want to thank you all for replying ,it helped me a lot.
I've took the car back home yesterday and it seems fine.
I've drove 60 miles from then and at the moment looks and works good ,even under load (high revs,high speed).

I hope that was the end of this 3 weeks(today) "nightmare".

Thank You all again:)
 
Channel Hopper said:
Where was the sump damage ?
To be honest I haven't seen it as it was already off the elevator,but he said it's on the side as he proped something on it.there is no oil leak,at the moment ,so happy days (sort of)
 
Jon_G said:
So did it get a new injector?
I think refurbished mine.he said that it took it to a diesel specialist and got it the second day.i've asked what was wrong with it and he said he doesn't know.he just left the injector to them and pick it up when they've called .I Don't believe that but anyways.

If anyone is interested the garage is called

"TIMING BELTS R US" in Leicester.
 
Glad it seems to be sorted but the name of the garage would make me run a mile!
 
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