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2.2 i-ctdi Flashing glow plug light and p0116(86)

n1ks0n

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Accord 2.2 i-CDTI
A weak ago the car started the behave strangely. While accelerating on the highway the engine cut out, revs dropped and glow plug light started flashing. Used paperclip diagnostic method to read flash codes. It showed 8-6 or p0116 Engine Coolant Temperature sensor circuit. The glow plug light went out the next day, but although I bought a genuine oem fuel filter and installed it. Everything was alright until today when the car cut out again while overtaking and glow plug light flashing again. Read flash codes again and only 8-6 is there. Checked the connection to the sensor down under on the radiator and is OK, but I think this fault refers to the sensor near the thermostat. Could anyone here confirm that this sensor could throw this fault and symptoms?
Thank you!
 
So just took an obd scanner and recorded faults were p1237, p2004, p2017. Strangely this happened after manifold cand egr cleaninf by official honda dealer. Mine is a pre-facelift which are known for the problem with the intake manifold runner, but could p1237 be a result of it too? I have reset the fault and didnt come back, but surely they will. Should i buy an IMRC scrapped from a facelift?
 
Those fault codes could have been historic and unrelated to your current problem... Now you've deleted them it'll be interesting to see which ones return.

IMRC problems (P2004, P2006, P2008 & P2017) are normally due to the frequency solenoid valve (FSV) failing to provide (or vent) the actuating vacuum correctly... a particular problem on PFL models.

The P1237 relates to low boost pressure and I can't see how this could be ***ociated with the IMRC issues. Possibly a leak or even the turbo boost actuator?
 
I have driven the car with disconnected IMRC valve as someone on other threads recommended. The iding is rough but car responds overall better in the lower rpms, but i don't seem to feel the 140 hps. I'm looking for a scrapped IMRC solenoid from a N22A2 engine because i don't want to spend a lot of money on the car.It's relatively old and i have done flywheel, clutch, chains and crankshaft pulley in a year ;(. Mine IMRC seems to have the filter missing there is just the third pipe open there. Haven't seen it before. p1237 has not reappeared. When I find a replacement i will let you know.
 
I think that what sets the glow plug light is p1237, because when i cleared the faults and unplugged the IMRC nothing flashed. I dont't understand why every single fault on this engine so far resulted in a flashing glow plug light why not the yellow engine light.... So it is probably a boost leak and it started happening after dealer cleaned intake manifold and egr. It's intermittent and i am inclined towards EGR, but wouldn't it set an egr code?
 
No code is raised by the EGR valve being wrongly open, or failing to close. You only get a code when the EGR flow is too low.

Yes, it could be a boost leak. Maybe a damaged intercooler or loose hose?

The glowplug light coming on due to a fault is an odd thing that these engines do! So far as I can tell it relates to temporary conditions of either low boost or low fuel rail pressure.
 
It is happening really on a rear occasion and it will be difficult to track. With the reader i can measure up to 6.8 bar boost in nutral and did not manage to replicate the problem. How do i find the leak. I should be taking every hose and the intercooler out to examine them. Of course it will be perfect to take the turbo apart and clean the vanes cause they are a known problem, but this will be messy and time consuming :(. Can i take the egr valve out by just undoing the 4 torx bolts or this is just the electric actuator of the valve and have to pull the whole piece? Could be that the fault did not happen in the past because due to gunked up inlet manifold full boost could not be acheived?
 
Boost is measured BEFORE the inlet manifold, so cleaning it will not affect this fault. Was it giving this fault before the garage cleaned the inlet manifold?

EGR valve stuck open would seriously affect running if it was responsible for the loss of boost. I cannot see how it's the valve.

I've not heard of turbo vanes on these sooting up, although it did affect the earlier 1.7 i-CTDi engine used in 7th gen Civics (but that was a completely different engine made by Izusu). Usually it's a leak somewhere or the turbo boost actuator has failed. How often does the error happen?

A boost leak might be found by splashing soapy water over the pipes and intercooler, then taking a short drive (but if your weather is hot like the UK then it'll all dry really quick!). Has the car ever had damage to the lower front left side where the intercooler is?
 
And just another thing. After the manifold clean an injector blow by problem appeared. I have done the chains myself before 40k miles and didnt have any problems for the period. However i took it to dealer for a fix immediately with new copper seals. My question is can the blow by cause a vacuum leak? As I see from your answer that it is measured before the inlet manifold but however? It could be that the blow by is coming back slowly. I have ordered new stretch bolts and new copper seals, but have to wait two weeks for delivery.
 
No. Your new problem with the leaking injector gasket is unconnected to any vacuum leak problem.

Did all these problems start when the intake manifold was cleaned?
 
Yes all of these. I usually do work on my car alone, but this time I decided to spare some time. The should have taken apart the whole manifold with all the accesories(egr etc..), cleaned and then reassembled . Probably the old gaskets were reused. The bad thing is that i was not there and I can't tell what exactly has been done. What should i do now? Take the manifold and everything out again and reassemble with new gaskets. I can't understand why did the injectors give up exactly at this time point and I am sure because the soot around them was not much meaning it is a recent problem. Could the use of some decoke spray caused this? "Black death" is not typical for the 2.2 i-ctdi... Just thinking?
 
The car needs to be fixed and they obviously can't do it. I will be searching for the vacuum leak and when I find it I will let you know. Thank you for all the advices!
 
Yes my fault, the wrong word. I have read somewhere on a peugeot forum that when the imrc valve solenoid is faulty it leaks vacuum and you know that booth turbo actuator and the imrc rely on the same vacuum which i think is produced by the vacuum pump correct me if i'm wrong. If the solenoid leaks enough vacuum shortly it will cause some degree of change in the turbo actuator position too. These guys on the peugeot forum had but a turbo overboost problem which they described as a overcorrection after the fault occured. I have searched photos on my phone of the engine bay and found that my IMRC valve was OK woth filter so HONDA must have done something with it it doesn't have one at the moment. So what i can do now is replicate the problem and see if these codes come in combination again. I'm buyung an used IMRC solenoid on thursday and I will update.
 
I wouldn't necessarily expect Peugeot diesel engines to have same air intake setup as the Honda N22 engines
 
My IMRC solenoid gives problems. I've replaced the filter with a pipe that has a workman's dust mask taped over the end, but I still get monthly P2004 error codes.

I've considered replacing the solenoid, but new ones are expensive and I do not trust used ones to be reliable.

I do not have boost problems.

I'd only address problems that cause a repeating error code. The IMRC isn't very important... more about environmental control on diesels, so far as I can tell.
 
My car has 200k miles already of which i have done 90k. I'm really considering turbo vanes sticking, because car feels gutless to me during acceleration. I should have cleaned the turbo while doing the chains. How hard is it to get the turbo out with the valve cover on? I'm really planning getting everything out for an inspection turbo, hoses and intercooler.
 
Just tried to actuate the turbo by hand. It is in a hard place. By hand i can hardly di anything on the rod just a few milimeters. Then i grabbed the rod with pliers and hardly achieved half or maybe a centimeter. Can anybody tell how much movement should i get?
 
I was driving the car this month waiting for the fault to come up again. I got some p2004s for the IMRC, but they do not produce a CEL on the dashboard. The car was very sluggish it felt like boost came very rarely and when it came the car took off like an airplane until yesterday when i got the p1237 underboost fault again producing the flashing glowplug light. I got fed up and today I stripped the turbo from the engine. For my surprise when I detached the vacuum controlled actuator it was very easy to move, but the actuator itself required quite an effort to be moved. The bolts on the turbine seem to be pretty seized and using a regular 10mm wrench feels like it is going to destroy the head. Sockets won't fit there. Tomorow I am going shopping for small sockets, but my question is: Is it worth it unbolting the turbine when the VNT moves freely. Could it be that the VNT becomes sticky when hot. Next on my list will be the solenoid that controls the actuator and if that does not help i will be deleting the EGR. Any other advices are welcomed. Thank you! :)
 
Today I have managed to take turbine housing apart and i was surprised how clean it was as i have been driving the car for 100k miles. Here are pictures: http://imgur.com/a/eIX44. I don't see how these could stick and cause problems.
 
Are you sure that there is no boost leak from the pipework or intercooler?

Have you ever checked that the EGR valve is actually closing properly? This is not the same as simply cleaning it.
 
Jon_G said:
Are you sure that there is no boost leak from the pipework or intercooler?

Have you ever checked that the EGR valve is actually closing properly? This is not the same as simply cleaning it.
With the turbo out I can easily remove the two hoses and check them. My car has never smoked even slightly. The egr valve was done by a workshop, but I will have a look at it. How exactly to test it any advices on the honda. I have done it on other cars where I open the servo and push onto the needle and see how it is moving and if the lid is sealing. Thank you!
 
Is your car pre-facelift (electric EGR) or facelift (vacuum EGR)?

Do check the intercooler as well, particularly if the car has ever had a knock to the front right.
 
Car is pre-facelift with the electric egr. Should i remove the servo bolted with the torx bolts. I have just removed the egr and it is black but nothing frightening. The two hoses are ok / airbox to turbo and turbo ti intercooler/. Should i remove the front bumper in order to get intercooler out?
 
Here is a YT vidclip posted by TA member Jayok...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgFY10NgMtk

Yes, front bumper needs to come off to access the intercooler.
 
Thank you Jon for all the support! I have done the test and the valve seems flawless, but I have maybe found the culprit for my problem. When i took the valve off i saw that the gasket to the flexi pipe to egr cooler has been leaking. Photo: http://imgur.com/a/voHen . One can easily see the soot on the mating surface. Shame for the shop who did the manifold and egr cleaning I'm really disappointed. Now i have torn the turbo down to find it is just this gasket. I wil be now focusing on the turbo. I have only cleaned the vanes I did not want to mess with anything else just in case. Is the turbo a Garrett gt17v, because i'm looking the torque specs for this turbocharger. I have tightened the exhaust housing to 14 Nm and the torx for the vanes plate to 7 Nm. That thing was damn hard to reassemble. It was corroded and it would not just slide in. I had to tap it with a hammer. Now everything seems to be correct the actutor moves and the turbine blade moves freely. What bothers me a lot are the gaskets for the turbo oil and coolant feed. The mating surface for the coolant line is corroded a bit and the oil line mating surface has a slight single scratch. I will also need the torque specs for the turbo(lines, exhaust, etc.). I appreciate all your help!
 
Last update. Turbo was not that bad, but having it out I have decided to sand it like a mirror. Vanes cleaned. Everything ***embled. Hoses tight. The only thing I reused was the cat flange crush ring, I can't smell any major exhaust leak but we will see. EGR tested and cleaned with new gaskets. Started the car but forgot to attach the vacuum hose and car was very sluggish. After banging my head for hours I have found it. Attached it and car seems to pull very hard. I'm unable to get p1237 and hope I won't be in the future. I get 7 psi in neutral. And some 16 psi accelerating in fourth, but I don't have uphill in my area to produce more boost. I keep getting the p2004 and I am wondering if solving it will give me any performance improvements? Thank you, Jon_G for the help! Best regards!
 
Try this modification to your Frequency Solenoid Valve to fix the P2004, it was a major improvement for me!
Jon_G said:
My IMRC solenoid gives problems. I've replaced the filter with a pipe that has a workman's dust mask taped over the end...
 
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