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#81 Jon_G

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Posted 16 August 2017 - 07:25 PM

?? All 4 x 10mm bolts were removed, it was never bolted to the bulk head. This part is not a repairable part. Any attempt to do so remains fruitless. Despite the relentless effort being made to convince me otherwise there is Not a shred of evidence to support this from any member on here so far who has actually removed it cleaned it and fixed it. None what so ever.

Unfortunately you are again still missing my point about how to remove it... repairable or not, the whole APP sensor assembly and bracket is held to the bulkhead with 2 conventional bolts (and of course the throttle cable needs disconnecting)... I've looked at mine and also studied the Honda service manual to confirm this. I suggest that you would have found it far, far easier to have removed the complete bracket and APP sensor assembly and then started to disassemble the tamper-proof screws, etc, on a workbench in an attempt to get in some switch cleaner (which it turns out you couldn't). At least then you wouldn't have wasted so much time working awkwardly and causing damage to your air filter cover, which is a shame.


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#82 freddofrog

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Posted 16 August 2017 - 07:48 PM

The method is not fool proof, its impossible to drill a hole through the top without damaging the blue electric tape inside, because you cant see where to drill the hole.  The picture you just posted, I have seen on the internet before, it clearly shows that the top plastic part has been cut all the way around and the hole is drilled rather from the inside.  The throttle cable and black plastic cover dont need to be removed, providing you place a towel on the base of block, to protect the air filter cover from being scratched.  In fact I did libererally spray a fluid down the center spring section and guess what! nothing happened, it stayed in there and did not work its way down, infact I had to pour it back out, so there is no possible way the fluid makes its way through that section. If you want to post a picture of your sensor, I expect to see your smiley face against it as i doubt that the picture posted is of your sensor.  I hope anybody with the same issue, does NOT attempt any of this, as it is fruitless.  

 

There is no blue electric tape inside, those copper tracks are on a solid blue PCB. If you've seen that picture before then you will have found out who posted it and how he and others fixed the APP sensor .

 

You probably did get fluid down into the tracks, but you need to keep it in there for a while and rotate the mechanism back and forth.  And yes I did remove the assembly from my car, I don't need to prove it to you, I did it to be sure that your DIY is cack-handed.

 

?? All 4 x 10mm bolts were removed, it was never bolted to the bulk head. This part is not a repairable part. Any attempt to do so remains fruitless. Despite the relentless effort being made to convince me otherwise there is Not a shred of evidence to support this from any member on here so far who has actually removed it cleaned it and fixed it. None what so ever.

 

Why would we make this up ?

 

Why would we waste our time typing out information to you to try to help you ?

 

Why would I go to the trouble of removing the one from my own car to check how simple it all is ?

 

I am a Chartered Electronics Engineer, I started off as a hobbyist on valve radios and TV's over 40 years ago, and I have a Bachelors and a Masters in Electronics. Up until 20 years ago I worked in various industries as an Electronics Design Engineer (including automotive test beds), after which I moved into Mobile Phone Networks as a Radio Planning Engineer.

 

I don't appreciate someone calling me a liar, or implying that I am complicit in some gang giving out bad advice.

 

You now have several choices, listed in descending order of cost

 

1. take your car to a dealer to get the work done

2. take your car to an independent to get the work done

3. buy a new APP assembly and fit it yourself

4. buy a new sensor from that link on ebay.com (which was not originally provided by me)

5. buy a 2nd hand assembly from a breakers (but you don't know how long it will be before that starts to throw APP codes)

6. continue to put switch cleaner into the one that you have

7. leave it alone and continue to use the cruise control when driving

 

The choice is yours, but if the APP starts throwing codes on the CM2 in my possession, I certainly would not bother with the first 5 or the last 1 in that list.


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#83 f2raf

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Posted 16 August 2017 - 08:39 PM

Since I actually went to the trouble to take mine apart I'm going to agree to disagree and rest my case here, it's a pointless pursuit.

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#84 freddofrog

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Posted 16 August 2017 - 09:25 PM

Since I actually went to the trouble to take mine apart I'm going to agree to disagree and rest my case here, it's a pointless pursuit.

Since I removed the assembly from my car, I can say that it's not difficult to do.

However, since my car is not showing APP DTC's I cannot prove whether switch cleaner will work or not.

But, since there are people on the internet who have solved the issue using switch cleaner on the Honda APP, it satisfies me that it is an easy task to cure an issue related to tracks inside the Honda APP.


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#85 freddofrog

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Posted 17 August 2017 - 09:12 AM

For future reference, only 3 months ago here on TA, chesjak cleaned out the APP on his i-ctdi with success

http://typeaccord.co...tates/?p=244160

http://typeaccord.co...tates/?p=244256


Edited by freddofrog, 17 August 2017 - 09:14 AM.

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#86 honda_saj

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Posted 19 August 2017 - 08:28 PM

The app sensor can be cleaned if you are not happy with help on here then don't complain we spend our free time unpaid to help other members put some of you new members have no idea how involved this is freddo is an respected member of the forum and is very reliable with his information. If you are not happy with our help then drive to honda dealers and be prepared to be charged well for diagnostic and replacement of complete assembly, obviously for ripping you off they will give you one year warranty as they replace whole assembly, good luck you will need and if you decide to use this forum fix up your attitude as it's not appropriate or welcome here.

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hope that helps post back and let us know so that others can benefit from the information

Regards,

saj


#87 freddofrog

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Posted 20 August 2017 - 05:17 AM

That's a bit harsh Saj, at least he made the effort, which is more than many do. Also, if he chooses to do so, he now has the DIY knowledge to replace the entire assembly with the one that Don101 presently has (and no longer requires). He could then take the actual sensor apart that he already removed, or PM me and I'll pay for postage so I can do so. But IMO he'd be wasting money getting the one from Don101.


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#88 f2raf

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Posted Yesterday, 05:21 PM

I'm not sure what all the fuss is about, (Saj) you possibly haven't read through the entire thread and most likely shooting from the hip. My attitude is, was and remains perfectly fine, of course I didn't appreciate constant mickey taking at my expense particularly when I followed guidance here and went through the effort to remove and clean the sensor and discovered actually the method initially suggested of dousing the sensor does not clean the PCB internally. I stand by that as I removed it again, doused it over night and there was no infiltration. I then used a 1.5mm drill bit and made two holes in safe areas at opposite ends and the fluid now flows through and comes out other side. I since doused it and refitted it. On initial start it gave same error codes but since deleting they have not come back and I have yet to go on a long run. My point was always that without opening it the cleaning process for me anyway was fruitless. I have always appreciated the help here and likewise contributed. If you did your homework Im not entirely new here but neither am I a self professed expert. However if you are a moderater and you feel typeaccord.co.uk will be a cheerful happy place without me then go ahead and terminate my membership, I'd hate to think this was giving you sleepless nights. Finally to add, the seriousness of this fault code is that the engine shuts down when driving on the highway. So some newbie thinks he can clean it by dousing it, goes for a run on the highway, engine shuts down because the dousing didn't penetrate the PCB and potentially be subjected to accident and open serious injury or worse. I know it's a worse case scenario, but possible. I don't really want to comment again here but since it getting like the wild west..
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#89 Jon_G

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Posted Yesterday, 05:42 PM

I'm very glad that you've fixed it, Imran. It might be useful for others in the future if you could explain exactly where you drilled these holes?

 

And TypeAccord would not be a better place without you!


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