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Toyota Yaris rear hub replacement. Tools ?

C

Channel Hopper

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Accord 7 Estate 2005
The other half's Mk1 Yaris has been given a failure on the MOT owing to rear wheel bearing tolerance/noise.

Having checked with the local supplier, I've had to order the complete rear hub as everything is integral and sealed.

How difficult is the compplete ***embly to replace and are there any special tools I might need ? I don't want to have the car in pieces then find out it is a pig of a job.

I have decent socket set, ramps/jack and axle stands here, plus an array of lubricants, prising tools and hammers if anything needs gentle pursuasion.

Thanks in advance

Part number arriving Monday is NWK185 Wheel bearing kit (from Nordschleife) if it helps nail down the procedure required.
 
PS, I also need to replace a front outer CV boot and will probably ask early next week if this is an easy or a nightmare, but really the back end is more of a concern (and subtantially more expensive part).
 
You will need a slide hammer really. They really seize in.

Other than that, it's pretty straightforward. Parts expensive as it's the hub and bearing, with abs pick up built in.

Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk
 
Changing a Yaris rear hub probably isn't that much different to changing a 2003 MR2 Roadster front hub? If so...

As said, easy job if they don't seize in... mine did, so took a fair bit of chiselling out. ABS sensor was also part of the hub ***embly, which cost me around £85 last year for a complete aftermarket hub ***embly. I have a copy of the official dealer workshop manual which does describe how to actually disassemble the hub to replace the wheel bearing, but I don't have the necessary press and I was also worried about damaging the ABS sensor (there were warnings about this!).
 
Thanks for the warnings

In a way having everything combined mekes sense, but if replacement is going to cause a potential avalanche then I would prefer discrete components, regardless of sourcing the correct tools to get it done/

I'll have to improvise on the slide hammer next week
 
If it's the complete unit then it might just be 4 nuts attaching it to the rear suspension, same as the 7th Gen Accord saloon.
 
Cliffordski said:
If it's the complete unit then it might just be 4 nuts attaching it to the rear suspension, same as the 7th Gen Accord saloon.
Click to expand...
looks that way here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iNsBm4c0IhE
 
I've already got a plethora of heating/burning implements, I used one of the smaller units for the ABS sensor three months ago.
 
Nowadays I tend to shoot first and ask questions later - I apply heat if it looks like it might put up a fight without trying first - I'd rather do that than find out the hard way by shearing the head off a fastener when I didn't need to.
 
As cliffordski mentioned above. Sounds very similar to the 7th gen saloon rear hub ***embly which was actually quite a straightforward job, no vsa/abs reset nonsense on a yaris either (I think?)
 
Ok, part arrived, with a replacement pair of rear shock absorbers. All fitted in about two hours, including a short drive to check everything.

The only difficult part was breaking the old wheel bearing unit away from the inside of the brake ***embly that holds the calliper and shoes, this was more difficult than driving the ***embly through the axle retainer owing to really bad access to prise it away. Anyhow, all done.

Now for the outer CV boot, what do I need to disassemble this time and what tools ? It already looks messy underneath owing to the split in the old one.
 
As said...slide hammer. They always seize in. Some worse than others, but nothing a slide hammer doesnt sort.

Source...about 10 years as a Toyota tech (not for many years).
If memory serves, theres a retaining clip to knock the cv joint off. Which can be a pain. I cant remember if outer comes off, of have to remove inner and do the boot from the inboard joint. I want to say the outer comes off, but been a long time.
 
Thanks. I'm hankering to leave it with the garage that does the MOT (but they were the ones that replaced a circlip last time that failed, then the boot did its thing)

I'll check further into the circlip thingy, can't be too hard and I have internal/external pliers being an expert on Honda gearbox/kickstart stuff

How much is a sleeve hammer ?
 
did you watch the video ?

(the hardest part, which is not in the video, will be getting the knuckle away)
 
Personally I wouldn't mess about with the boot - I would buy a used driveshaft on eBay for £15 delivered and put it straight in.
 
freddofrog said:
did you watch the video ?

(the hardest part, which is not in the video, will be getting the knuckle away)
Click to expand...
I'm still at the question of whether shaft comes out of the gearbox, or from the strut, the video shows a shaft already on the bench.

Regardless, it looks very messy, and the boot ordered came with circlips, but not grease packet.
 
Channel Hopper said:
I'm still at the question of whether shaft comes out of the gearbox, or from the strut, the video shows a shaft already on the bench.

Regardless, it looks very messy, and the boot ordered came with circlips, but not grease packet.
Click to expand...
If your missus reads that and knows what most car mechanics know, she should be very worried at the idea of you working on her car.

You didn't say that you've never replaced a driveshaft before, you only asked how to replace a boot (which is the easy bit)

Watch the first 3 minutes of this video, you'll see what you're going to have to do to get access to the outer end of the shaft.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NbcVKxhlTA



and you haven't said whether it's near-side or off-side, and so (depending on whether the shaft is on the same side as the gearbox or not) you might only have to disconnect it from the inter-shaft (if you know what that is).

TBH ....get the garage to do it.
 
I've bought the boot at the same time as the rear shock absorbers and brake hub. i was never expecting to replace the shaft. The nearside one has failed.

Why do you think my wife would be concerned in the slightest ?
 
A few days ago I was wondering why there wasn't a velcro type CV boot out there, one that could be installed with everything left in-situ.

Et voila, Hippo Red has something like it. Cuffia Boot (Italian) or Easyboot. Glueshut design.

http://www.hippored.com/?p=887&lang=en

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLrGNU_t83Y

No UK distributors though. :(
 
yes you can use those, but you say you've already bought the "solid" boot

one has to ask oneself, if those "zip" boots are so good, why don't dealers and even back-street garages fit them

it depends on how long you intend to keep the car
 
I believe Bailcast have similar to that from red Hippo but from the messages the lip may be thinner, possibly the glue in the packet is not the same recommended, or it might even be the difference in material prevents full adhesion as per the youtube video claims.

I can always take back the original boot purchased, dealer is around the corner and has known me for years.
 
Jon_G said:
How about ones you can glue? ECP sell them, as do Amazon and eBay. This example's description makes it sound well-engineered... http://www.bailcast.com/products/cvs18-universal-cv-boot/
Click to expand...
#24 and #25 are glue-on Jon , IIRC "zip boot" used to be the generic terminology


Jon_G said:
However this thread does suggest that results can be variable... http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/fitting-universal-cv-boot-the-type-you-glue-anyone-fitted
Click to expand...
QED ... "it depends on how long you intend to keep the car"
 
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