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Diesel Fuel filter drain plug

C

Channel Hopper

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Accord 7 Estate 2005
I thought Id drain out the filter today but with a quick grope under the cannister I cant make out what tool is needed to do the deed. Any pointers as Im working blind ( no mirror on a stick).
 
If you have the correct Bosch fuel filter then the drain is knurled so you can grip and undo it with your fingers.
 
I wouldn't know unless I took the outer casing apart. What was under the casing felt smooth, circular, about 6mm in diameter and probably 8mm in length.

I'll cobble something together tomorrow to have a better look. Can it be seen from the ground up ?
 
Drive it up onto a pair of car ramps and slide yourself under the car. Acres of space from the bottom up.

You can see easily and get your arm up there with loads of room to spare.
 
This is the filter with the top sawn off and the element removed (just to see what it looked like).

The water drain is the black bit on the end. This is a genuine Bosch filter. A non-genuine filter I had was similar but the knob what white and wavy. Same location, same idea.

7thgeninsidefuelfilter.jpg
 
Just checked, it's the non Bosch version with white drain, but it is surrounded by a close fitting shroud (also in white) which is what I felt, it doesn't want to budge. Will try at lunchtime
 
And, done.

The easiest way is to take off the engine cover , put a large tray more ore less under the filter and unscrew. The plastic shroud was strange as it protects the knurled wheel, but has melted slightly so that it is awkward to undo.

What dropped into the tray is clear, no water or contamination, though it looks very yellow and smelt more or petrol than diesel.

Will see if this makes a difference to , well anything tomorrow.
 
And the only difference is.......she won't start. I primed the pipes with the hand pump and there is nothing else amiss, so how long cranking should it take for the new fuel to get through ? Picture of filter and fluid below.
oaeGp5P.jpg


EWPNezj.jpg
 
Did you bleed out the air from the filter by loosening the bleed bolt then pumping until fuel ran out?

I recall something like 50 pumps is required to avoid excessively long cranking times.
 
Jon_G said:
Did you bleed out the air from the filter by loosening the bleed bolt then pumping until fuel ran out?

I recall something like 50 pumps is required to avoid excessively long cranking times.
Click to expand...
I did bleed from the pipe at the top of the engine (17mm bolt) and there appeared to be no air in there. I only pumped arond 20 times though and lost about a ladlefull of fluid.
 
Any update did you get vehicle to start I would have pumped more times and then keep switching ignition on and off few times then try to start hope all sorted soon

Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk
 
Channel Hopper said:
I did bleed from the pipe at the top of the engine (17mm bolt) and there appeared to be no air in there. I only pumped arond 20 times though and lost about a ladlefull of fluid.
Click to expand...
The OEM fuel filter has a 10mm AF bolt on the top, specifically for bleeding out the trapped air in the filter. I'm not sure where you've bled the system, nor how effective that might be?
 
I was really hoping to avoid taking the cannister and housing apart, hence the draining. No start as yet.

The 17mm bolt mentioned is the one that goes directly into the fuel system under the engine cover., no air/only diesel comes out when I use the pump

I will look to see if the filter has any bleed system tomorrow.

I wish I lived on a hill.
 
Canister and housing? It's like you're describing a facelift (2006-) model! The bolt is on top of the filter. Just remove the cover above (2 x 10mm bolts) and there it is.
 
Jon_G said:
Canister and housing? It's like you're describing a facelift (2006-) model! The bolt is on top of the filter. Just remove the cover above (2 x 10mm bolts) and there it is.
Click to expand...
OK, it was completely hidden from view by the two pipes, despite taking images with the phone Taking the cover for the manual pump AND the housing gives access to it, though upon undoing, less than two pumps (a teaspoon of air) remained in the canister. Nipped up and done the big 17mm bolt again (just the merest hiss of air) and still no start.

It might be the battery has finally come to the end of its useful life, but I need to start her to get another.

What is better for the goose, forcing the glowplugs on for a few seconds, or throwing some aromatic stuff down the air inlet ? I don't like using the latter btw as I've seen starter motors break on vans
eVRd6Q8.jpg
when trying to start after running the tank dry.
 
Charge the battery overnight then try it. If it wont start then use and easy-start spray sparingly, but you shouldn't need to... I've used it on tractors but never the Honda.
 
I think, she almost caught today, but just before the battery started to fail again. Cranking three times over almost two minutes so the battery has enough in reserve and will charge again overnight.

In the thread earlier Saj(eel) suggested turning the ignition on and off , which I ***ume pressurises the system, since it is too warm for the plugs in this season to kick in. I'd still have a go at priming them with current beforehand unless somebody says it's not safe to do.

Is there a position of the throttle I can set that throws more/any diesel into the cylinders, or should I continue with cranking only ?
 
Channel Hopper said:
In the thread earlier Saj(eel) suggested turning the ignition on and off , which I ***ume pressurises the system, since it is too warm for the plugs in this season to kick in. I'd still have a go at priming them with current beforehand unless somebody says it's not safe to do.
Click to expand...
Like me, Saj has the petrol engine, and the injectors on the petrol engine spray into the inlet manifold, so it's not very high pressure. On the diesel, I'm not sure if switching the ignition on and off will do much, it might help, can't say. Jon knows more about the various pumping parts on the diesel though.
 
There is no electric fuel pump on these i-CTDi engines, so simply turning the ignition on/off will not pressurise the system.

If diesel was entering the cylinders then it would fire (but not necessarily start). Unless the fuel rail is reaching a minimum of 200 bar/20 MPa pressure during cranking then the ECU will not allow the injectors to open... I suspect the problem you have is that the rail is failing to reach this minimum for some reason. Commonly this could be an ineffective battery, a leaking rail over-pressure valve or an injector (or two) with excessive leak back flows.

Have you tried to somehow insert a rag soaked in petrol into the air intake? Be careful not to overdo it.

But strange this has happened after you've been fiddling with the fuel filter.
 
I haven't used neat petrol (yet) , more a 50/50 mix of diesel/petrol on a cloth, and sparingly.

Will go for the full fat later this morning.

Thanks for the info on the way the system works, I hadn't heard any fuel pump, so was thinking there might be an electrical issue as well.

If all else fails I could still energise the glow plugs.
 
Channel Hopper said:
I haven't used neat petrol (yet) , more a 50/50 mix of diesel/petrol on a cloth, and sparingly.

Will go for the full fat later this morning.

Thanks for the info on the way the system works, I hadn't heard any fuel pump, so was thinking there might be an electrical issue as well.

If all else fails I could still energise the glow plugs.
Click to expand...
Glow plugs aren't much help in summer.

I still find your idea of using a petrol-soaked rag a bit scary... you've got no control over how much fuel the engine will inhale, it could burst into life and massively over-rev before you can extract the rag from wherever you've stuffed it (and can't turn off the engine to stop it). Easy-start is bad enough, but at least the nozzle fits nicely inside a gap in the air filter housing and it's easier to control the dosage. Even WD40 would be safer than a petrol-soaked rag!

Either way, good luck, although I'm really not sure what you'll learn though, if it does fire up (which of course it must if fuel is introduced)... there's obviously some problem preventing it from starting normally. Have you checked the rail over-pressure valve for leakage? That's the most common reason for non-starting on the I-CTDi.
 
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