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Clutch bite point.

M

MyfirstVtech

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Cheshire
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honda accord
Ok so this has probably been covered somewhere but my clutch bite point is about 2/3 way up the pedal and I wanted to lower it abit so it's bites further down.
Did I read right that on the clutch pedal you remove a locking pin and wind the rod?
Which way do I wind and what should I be looking for?
 
What model of accord have you got - year, engine size, petrol or diesel?

Always thought Honda clutches were self adjusting.
 
I'm not sure if there is any adjustment, but yes if there is, it will most likely be achieved on the rod that goes from the pedal into the master cylinder. You'd need to extend it outwards a small amount.

Note that on hydraulic clutches on 6th/7th/8th gen manual-gear petrol Accords, the biting point will stay the same while the clutch wears, "auto adjust" taking place in the slave cylinder. But eventually the "auto adjust" can go no further, so if the biting point starts to get too high, it indicates the clutch thickness is getting near to the limit.
 
freddofrog said:
You'd need to extend it outwards a small amount.
Click to expand...
ooops, cat woke me and said "shorten it" (move rod inwards) LOL .... but you might find that that introduces some "slack" in the pedal
 
Hahaha ok, I've studied the pictures and instructions and so with both lock nuts loose I turn the push rod clock wise to lower the bite point?
 
I'm only going on the way the clutches on the 7th gen petrol Accords work and as far as I can make out the 6th gen is same, so if it is the same and if it does screw inwards, then yes. But in effect, all that you're doing is moving the pedal in a bit, relative to the movement of the piston in the master cylinder that affects the movement of the clutch pressure plate.
 
Ah so all it does is move the pedal height and not change the point when pushing the pedal where the clutch bites??
 
That's correct. On a cable-operated clutch, the biting point can be adjusted, a bit like adjusting the point at which the brakes on a push-bike start to work, relative to the lever position. But a hydraulic clutch self-adjusts, in the same way that the hydraulic brakes on the car also self-adjust.

On the brakes, as the friction material wears, the piston moves out from the caliper, but the pedal stays in the same position. On a hydraulic clutch, as the friction material wears, the fingers on the pressure plate move further outwards, so the piston in the hydraulic slave cylinder moves inwards, but the overall effect on the pedal is same as on brakes i.e. no effect on when the piston(s) in the slave cylinder(s) start to move, relative to pedal position.
 
Freddo you are just awesome for useful and fully explained info and from what you have told me its best just to leave it as is.
Any idea what the average mileage is of a 1.8 2001 original clutch life?
My old Celica gen 6 was anything from 115-120k.
 
Wasps?
Ah hmm yes I should have said that on average the club guys it would close to either of those figures on average mileage.
 
MyfirstVtech said:
Wasps?
Click to expand...
He's been on the red diesel again :lol:

2ekonl4.jpg
 
[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

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