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piglet1

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Location
Shropshire
Car
2005 accord estate
right guys I'm in need of some help iv just replaced the engine on my 7th gen estate with a low millage engine out of an 08 accord as well as replacing the turbo the we got the car running after a little air bleeding and the motor ticks over sweet as a nut but ***ign as you build the revs up and the turbo starts to build boost the car splutters and won't rev past 2k if you hold the throttle down it will slowly try to rev a bit more it won't rev past 2.5k but it then starts to bellow white smoke out let it tick over again and its fine any advice would be a great help
 
If you now have different injectors then they'll need to be coded to the ECU, but I doubt it would cause such a severe problem.

Did the new engine come with all its ancillaries, or have you had to refit many of the old bits from the original engine (valves, actuators, sensors, etc)?

Have you let it warm up?

Any warning lights?
 
Hi Jon the engine was from an 08 and came bare apart from the sensors so I had to swop over all the other bits injectors egr exhaust manifold and so on I also had another turbo that I fitted as my original one was dead the injectors are my original ones in the same order they cam out the old engine I have no lights on at all not even wen it won't rev the car was left to tick over and warm up before I found out it wouldn't rev the turbo came complete so iv just bolted it to the manifold iv replaced all gaskets on the parts iv had to swop as well
 
Try temporarily blanking your egr valve and see if it makes a difference.
 
Can you read manifold absolute pressure or other real-time parameters?

Odd to not be able to rev with the engine off-load... maybe suggests a sensor problem (particularly the accelerator pedal position sensor?). But you'd expect an error code to appear once the engine is hot and running in closed loop mode.

Do you think the white smoke is unburnt diesel or water vapour?

How did you remove the injectors from the old engine? If you unbolted the top part to fit a puller then I'm worried that you may have lost one or more of the internal ball bearings...
 
If you don't want to try then that's up to you.
 
F6HAD said:
If you don't want to try then that's up to you.
I'm happy to try it I was just saying its the original one thats all when you say blank it of temporary do you mean totally unbolt it and fit a blanking plate ?
 
Jon_G said:
Can you read manifold absolute pressure or other real-time parameters?

Odd to not be able to rev with the engine off-load... maybe suggests a sensor problem (particularly the accelerator pedal position sensor?). But you'd expect an error code to appear once the engine is hot and running in closed loop mode.

Do you think the white smoke is unburnt diesel or water vapour?

How did you remove the injectors from the old engine? If you unbolted the top part to fit a puller then I'm worried that you may have lost one or more of the internal ball bearings...
I have no way of measuring the pressure sadly the old injectors came out really easy I unbolted the clamps and they came out with a little wiggle I didn't replace the sealed on them when I re fitted them could that cause this ? it splutters as soon as it tries to build boost as if its something to do with the turbo (I'm not saying it is tho )
 
piglet1 said:
I have no way of measuring the pressure sadly the old injectors came out really easy I unbolted the clamps and they came out with a little wiggle I didn't replace the sealed on them when I re fitted them could that cause this ? it splutters as soon as it tries to build boost as if its something to do with the turbo (I'm not saying it is tho )
I'd check around the injectors for leaks, that could be your issue. Also have you attached all hoses etc fully and not damaged any in the process?
 
TypeR said:
I'd check around the injectors for leaks, that could be your issue. Also have you attached all hoses etc fully and not damaged any in the process?
iv been over all the hoses I replaced a Cpl of hose clamps as they where weak but all hoses are connected and not leaking if the injectors where leaking would it cause it to not rev at all ?
 
Obvious question but did you actually see the replacement engine running prior to installing?
 
It shouldn't be demanding much boost when running in neutral! Even if the turbo was seized it should still hit the red line.

Injector seals would worry me a bit, but can't really cause this problem. It would be obvious if they're leaking from the fumes... Probably worth checking at some point.

Have you run the engine until it got really properly hot? Only then does the ECU read all the sensors and would then flag an engine code if it saw a problem.

If you do need a real-time reader/OBD2 scanner I could let you use mine if you live somewhere around this end of Shropshire?
 
Jon_G said:
It shouldn't be demanding much boost when running in neutral! Even if the turbo was seized it should still hit the red line.

Injector seals would worry me a bit, but can't really cause this problem. It would be obvious if they're leaking from the fumes... Probably worth checking at some point.

Have you run the engine until it got really properly hot? Only then does the ECU read all the sensors and would then flag an engine code if it saw a problem.

If you do need a real-time reader/OBD2 scanner I could let you use mine if you live somewhere around this end of Shropshire?
ill replace the injector seals tomorrow to be safe the car didn't get really warm no I will leave it ticking over for longer tomorrow I'm just outside Shrewsbury I think a mats going to try his reader on it tomorrow evening if I have no joy in the morning is it possible that it just needs to get hot check all systems and could sort its self (long shot I guess )
 
Yeah, I doubt that it'll fix itself! But at least if you run it for a while it might flag a code, which would help a lot.

Leaking injector seals should he pretty obvious. Even a small leak can be checked by spraying WD40 down each injector well to show up any gasses coming up.
 
ill take a look again tomorrow and then update with any further news thanks guys for your advice
 
morning guys right after checking the car again today iv re bleed the diesel filter and no change I checked the injectors and found 2 leaking a little so iv orderd new seals and will fit them tomorrow iv also been doing a bit more digging and iv come across a few posts on the internet with similar symptoms to what iv got and they all say about the glow plug relay now the glowplugs aunt my original ones and iv not checked the relay as yet my question is would the relay on an 05 car be the same as on the 08 car as my new engine is from an 08 car so could this cause the problem I have
 
If it starts ok then the glowplugs are working well enough. There is an 'extended glow' period to aid running during warm up, but this really wouldn't cause the degree of problems that you report. In any case, a failure of the glowplug system will generate a P1384 diagnostic trouble code and bring on the engine warning light.
 
dam ill try these seals the see what it does if it doesn't work then I don't know what else to try id rather it just sent up a code so I knew lol
 
Do you think you could drive the car? This would at least put a proper load on the engine and so might then really show up the problem and make it more likely that a DTC will be raised. It would also get the engine to reach proper running temperatures, which I'm not sure you've yet done?

I could be wrong, but problems like minor leakage from the base of the injectors or glowplug uncertainties are mere distractions from the real problem. If you have a bit of time on your hands then you'd probably be better spending the time temporarily blanking off the EGR valve as Fahad suggested... this WILL cause the warning light to come on plus a 'limp mode' 2000/2500RPM rev limit but the car should run well until reaching that limit. I know you refitted a previously working unit, but the symptoms do match those of a stuck open EGR valve.

You sure you connected up all the vacuum pipework OK? There are a few subtle differences between pre-2006 engine components and later engines... IMRC control, EGR valve type, etc...

Getting the car onto a proper, interactive diagnostic system (such as HDS or Snap-On with the correct key) should show up which engine sub-system is causing your problem.



TypeR said:
Obvious question but did you actually see the replacement engine running prior to installing?
That was a good question!
 
Jon_G said:
Do you think you could drive the car? This would at least put a proper load on the engine and so might then really show up the problem and make it more likely that a DTC will be raised. It would also get the engine to reach proper running temperatures, which I'm not sure you've yet done?

I could be wrong, but problems like minor leakage from the base of the injectors or glowplug uncertainties are mere distractions from the real problem. If you have a bit of time on your hands then you'd probably be better spending the time temporarily blanking off the EGR valve as Fahad suggested... this WILL cause the warning light to come on plus a 'limp mode' 2000/2500RPM rev limit but the car should run well until reaching that limit. I know you refitted a previously working unit, but the symptoms do match those of a stuck open EGR valve.

You sure you connected up all the vacuum pipework OK? There are a few subtle differences between pre-2006 engine components and later engines... IMRC control, EGR valve type, etc...

Getting the car onto a proper, interactive diagnostic system (such as HDS or Snap-On with the correct key) should show up which engine sub-system is causing your problem.



That was a good question!
ill fit the new seals when they come tomorrow least thats done.

I had to change a Cpl of the vacuum pipes as some where redundant but they are now all fitted.

as for driving it I will try that tomorrow and also plug in to the snap on reader.

the engine ran fine before it came out the previous car.

I will get an egr blanking plate and try that as well.
 
does a PFL ECU work with FL engine ?

is inlet manifold PFL or FL ?

is the EGR PFL or FL ?
 
Jon_G said:
What did you do about the actuator for the IMRC? (PFL and FL have different actuators)
the solenoid that sits in the vacuum lines ? if so I used my original one
or do you mean the actuator on the inlet if so I used my original one complete with my inlet
 
Iv just drove it down the road at there is a line about 15-1700 rpm and it splutters as if it hit a rev limiter and starts to smoke more at that point it doesn’t matter what gear your in or how much load the engine has iv tried putting a plate over the egr pipe ( a bit heath Robinson ) but that made no difference apart from put the light on after running it a bit after the plate was removed it has turned the light of but there is definitely a line @15-1700 rpm
 
That is where you'd expect the turbo to start boosting. Maybe you need to check that the boost linkage is properly set? Is the boost actuator the one from your old engine and is it connected up properly? Did you check out the turbo VNT mechanism before fitting?
 
Jon_G said:
That is where you'd expect the turbo to start boosting. Maybe you need to check that the boost linkage is properly set? Is the boost actuator the one from your old engine and is it connected up properly? Did you check out the turbo VNT mechanism before fitting?
the turbo is a new one (second hand but new to this car ) the turbo came with the actuator on it so iv not adjusted any of it the turbo all looked to be free and working ok before we fitted it
 
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